wacomme

Currently I ride and race DT Swiss 465 wheels laced to a Powertap. I'll soon switch to either the Quarq or Garmin Vector power meter system. I'll be wanting some new wheels for racing and good weather training to use in lieu of my Ksyrium SL wheels (2nd wheel set - with new power system I'll use the Kysrium's for the indoor trainer and yucky weather riding).

I'm 6' and 155-160 lbs. I ride a lot of hills - live in Colorado Springs, CO. While aero wheels would be nice, I'm mostly interested in lightweight and rigid wheels that will benefit me on climbs. I'm not opposed to carbon wheels, but if the weight and strength are comparable, then aluminum rims are just fine. I'm still on the fence regarding clincher vs. tubular. If the weight and strength difference is minimal, then preference is given to the clinchers. I'd like to stay under $1000 for the wheelset.

Lightweight wheels are key, but since I'll be training as well as racing on them, they need to be somewhat study. Besides, I'm 150-160 lbs., not 130 lbs.

Wheel suggestions? Thank you.

valleycyclist

For a lightweight aluminum clincher rim, the NoTubes Alpha 340 rim weighs about 350 grams. In a 20f/28r spoke count with CX-Ray spokes you can have a light wheelset that weighs about 1225 grams. The wheels should be sturdy enough if built well and with hubs that have good flange geometry. For the 1225 gram estimate I used Alchemy hubs.

Another nice option is with Kinlin XR-270 rims. Although the weight will go up by about 200 grams the wheels will be stronger with XR-270 rims.

For carbon rims you do not have many options at <$1000.

wacomme

Thanks for the wheel suggestions. I presume the Alchemy hubs have "good flange geometry". What do you mean by this?

Also, is there any advantage to going carbon if I decide to stretch the budget?

ericm979

The lighest wheels you can get will be low profile carbon tubulars. They can go under 1kg if you use reasonably light hubs. But unless you source rims from china and build the wheels yourself they won't be under $1k. The lightest clinchers will be what valleycyclist mentioned, about 200g heavier with the same hubs. But I am not sure how durable the Stans 340 rims are. XR270s are pretty strong.

Before you sink into the depths of weight weenieism, you might use one of the on line calculators to figure out how much time you'll save with the various lighter wheels on your favorite climb. Also take into account that most races aren't all climbing. Descending and riding on the flat are important too. You may find that aero wheels while very slightly slower on the climbs will more than compensate on the rest of the course. If you're more rested when you get to the climb you can go faster up it.

Good flange geometry means that the rear drive side is as far out as possible and the non drive side is reasonably far out. The DS is the most important, as it largely determines the NDS spoke tension. The farther out it is, the more even the spoke tension will be. Some hubs try to even up the NDS tension by moving the NDS flange in. That works but then the wheel is laterally flexy, which you also don't want.

The front geometry is not as important, but wider flanges mean a better bracing angle which means a laterally stiffer wheel. Alchemy hubs get all those right.

The advantage to carbon is that it makes lighter rims. But the braking is not as good and carbon clinchers can have problems with heat build up on long twisty descents. When the rim overheats the tire may blow off the rim or the rim may deform.

valleycyclist

The Alchemy ELF/ORC hubset has very good flange geometry which helps with lateral stiffness. The front hub has wide flange spacing, and the rear hub has dimensions that have the best compromise between spoke tension ratio (~54%) and lateral stiffness. They are also lightweight while still being durable.

3kmi

Only if you're going tubular. Otherwise, stick with alloy. In your terrain heat dissipation is crucial and carbon clinchers are just not good enough for that.

wacomme

Thank you. Lately I've been reading too much about wheels in general. I'm basically looking for the impossible - a strong light wheel that's aero too. I can't afford multiple wheelsets - just two. And I don't want my race wheels to be race only; I'd like to use them more than just for races. While aero is nice, I question the advantages of aero over rotational weight. Given a choice, I think I'd rather have light wheels than aero wheels. And if I try for both aero and light, 50mm is the minimum I'd want for any aero benefit.

For racing, my main interests are TT's and hillclimbs. Road races are ok, and I hate crits. There's a limited number of TT's (I have clip-on aero bars and a TT helmet = biggest aero advantage; working on flexibility for lower position), so the most time is spent climbing hills - thus my rationalization for light wheels. For my interests, weight, and limitation for one set of wheels, what's the best option?

ericm979

XR270s on White Ind hubs (or alchemys if you have the extra $$), and an aero wheel cover for the rear.

Seattle Forrest

This is true even in the full depths of weight weenieism.

NathanC

My climbing wheels are as follows:

XR200s, 24h/28h
Extralite SX Hubs
Sapim X-Ray Spokes

Build weight: 1150 grams, and not all that expensive.

zatopek

I'm sure the flamers will nail me for this but, here goes...
Colorado Cyclist has Mavic R-Sys Red wheels on sale for $999.00. I bought a pair a few weeks back. I was looking for a light weight, rigid, clincher wheel set for climbing and training. So far, I'd say they are the cat's pajamas. They really do feel quick and light on climbs. If they flex when hammering, I can't detect it (I'm 6'0" and 165 lbs.). Also, I think they look pretty cool. If memory serves, they come in at just over 1400 grams.

ericm979

blacksquid

Regarding Stans Notubes, aren't you somewhat limited on tire selection?

valleycyclist

They are clincher rims and can handle standard clincher tires as well as tubeless tires if appropriate rim strips are installed.

blacksquid

Thanks. I see that 2 layers of rim tape are suggested to completely seal the spoke bed + the valve stems + tire sealant. Does this add significant weight to the wheelset? I am intrigued by this.

valleycyclist

Using tubeless tires and sealant will usually be heavier than a tire+innertube. Some people like the way that tubeless tires feel when riding.

wacomme

How durable are these wheels, and how much do you weigh?

jamesdak 

Here are my climbing/everyday wheels. Came in at a bit over 1400 grams delivered with rim tape installed. Have over 600 miles on them (recent buy) and no problems. I weigh in from 160-165. Lots of climbing rides on them in the mountains of Utah and they are great. Handle fast descents well and have given me no braking problems. I have the utmost faith in the build and have hit over 50 mph on the descents with them.

I still consider myself a novice (only 9000 miles since starting to cycle in the spring of 2010) but I don't notice any flex on these. My Mavic CXP 21 on my Schwinn would flex and rub in certain situations until I had them restrung. Don't notice anything my a solid feel with these wheels. Even when I transition over a uneven road surface at an intersection while turning at around 15 mph.

The Alchemy hubs seem to spin really nice but time will tell how well they hold up. Still, all my research has me confident in the wheels. Got them discounted so a fair amount under $1000 built up and delivered.

Kinlin XR270 Rims: 880 grams -
Alchemy ELF/ORC Hubset: 289 grams
Sapim CXray Spokes (20/28): 230 grams

ColinL

For actual tubeless you have exactly three tires to pick from, all made by Hutchinson. I doubt you want the touring tire (Intensive), so really that leaves the low-mileage slick (Atom) and the all-arounder (Fusion 3).

I wouldn't touch the Maxxis tubeless. Specialized's Turbo tubeless is a Hutchinson carcass, Fusion I think.

So, yeah. Two tires. But I'm doing it in the Spring. Don't need rim strips on my Ksryium Elites.

gg-madone

I also have these:

Zen Cyclery Siddartha Wheelset
Kinlin XR270, Alchemy ELF/ORC Hubset, Sapim CXray Spokes (24/28) 1380g

I'm 5'5" 155-160lbs and only have about 1200mi. on them but they are stiff and light, and so far bombproof.

NathanC

I ride them as my full time wheelset -- probably have 4000km on them -- one slight true in that time.

I am 136 pounds, btw.

wacomme

Thanks for your suggestions. When I update my power meter (Quarq or Garmin Vector from my current Powertap) I'll strongly consider the following:

Kinlin XR270 Rims: 880 grams -
Alchemy ELF/ORC Hubset: 289 grams
Sapim CXray Spokes (20/28): 230 grams

The Kinlin XR200's are also a possibility, but at my weight the XR270's are probably a better choice.

Are there carbon options to consider? Someone mentioned to not go carbon unless it's tubular; is heat from descending still a problem for carbon clinchers given the newer carbon resins and better brake pads available?

generalkdi

nice, I want to build these and am 130, I guess they'll do the job. way better than my 1.8kg wheelset.

wacomme

Are 28 spoke rear wheels the way to go in the set-up below, or are 24 spokes a viable option too?

Kinlin XR270 Rims: 880 grams -
Alchemy ELF/ORC Hubset: 289 grams
Sapim CXray Spokes (20/28): 230 grams

valleycyclist

You are talking about reducing the rear wheel by 20 grams by taking away 4 CX-Ray spokes. It will work, but since you wanted light and strong, I would add the 20 grams for the extra strength/durability of a 28 spoke rear wheel.