Okay....so why is BB30 such crap?
#101
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I posted this before but I'll do it here. Brand new my Focus (FSA Energy BB30) had some minor annoying ticking every now and then by 1500 miles it was creaking bad. I pulled the cranks off, cleaned up everything best I could with the bearings in but it still creaked. This is what I did, and it did not include Loctite:
Remove crank and bearings
Clean everything incl. BB shell
Put crank and bearings in freezer for a couple of hours
Put gobs of Park grease in BB shell, get c-clips lubed good
Install frozen bearings, grease them inside and out first, they go in easy when frozen
Allow bearings to warm up and expand inside the shell
Install frozen crank, grease spindle first, it will go in easy, grease the wave washer (I greased the crank bolt threads as well)
TORQUE TO EXACT FSA SPEC. It felt like it should be tighter but no. If it's even slightly tighter than spec it will creak as I learned
I waited awhile to let the crank get to room temp before I did a test ride
The bike is now past 4000 miles and I've never heard a peep from the cranks since. Still on the original bearings. I'm not an engineer so I don't know if freezing the parts and letting them expand after install did anything except make them easier to install, but who knows. Worked for me.
Remove crank and bearings
Clean everything incl. BB shell
Put crank and bearings in freezer for a couple of hours
Put gobs of Park grease in BB shell, get c-clips lubed good
Install frozen bearings, grease them inside and out first, they go in easy when frozen
Allow bearings to warm up and expand inside the shell
Install frozen crank, grease spindle first, it will go in easy, grease the wave washer (I greased the crank bolt threads as well)
TORQUE TO EXACT FSA SPEC. It felt like it should be tighter but no. If it's even slightly tighter than spec it will creak as I learned
I waited awhile to let the crank get to room temp before I did a test ride
The bike is now past 4000 miles and I've never heard a peep from the cranks since. Still on the original bearings. I'm not an engineer so I don't know if freezing the parts and letting them expand after install did anything except make them easier to install, but who knows. Worked for me.
Grease generally over many miles doesn't resolve creaking. So what exactly is creaking in the context of BB30? It is the micro movement of the outer race of the bearing relative to the alloy bearing bore due to a combination of force vectors on the bearings based upon crank loads. Why doesn't yours creak? Because you have sufficient press and presence of grease which reduces friction thereby not making a sound 'at present'. Grease in effect is somewhat at odds with press or interference fit. Grease fills micro voids and increases surface area but grease is lubrice which promotes bearing movement. These are competing factors.
So how to do it? Freezing bearings to shrink them is a common practice across many industries but doesn't have good application here. A well greased bearing front and rear for bearing life is essential but the outer race and BB30 bores need to be pristine. Use Loctite. Now the bearings can not creak. They can't move as they are held in place. That is the point. Press varies on different frames and even bearing O.D. varies slightly for different bearing manufacturers. Use a Park bearing press or make one from hardware store parts as many do. BB30 when set up properly will give thousands of miles of solid performance. Other mistake which it sounds like you didn't make is to adjust crank preload properly. Not rocket science but overlooked by a great number of bike mechanics and can also contribute to not only noise, but accelerated bearing wear and or bearings staying properly bedded.
So you basically showcase the common misconception of how to install BB30 and in spite of that throwing a lot of grease at it has kept it quiet. Many that try the same thing aren't as lucky because they don't have your frame tolerances. Loctite basically takes frame tolerance out of the equation. Even a slip fit works fine with Loctite. Btw, Trek's early Madones were slip fit and Trek had a real problem on their hands because there were a lot of creaky Madones. This predated the use of Loctite in the industry. Loctite basically came about in replacement of grease between the bearing and BB30 bore to keep the bearings seated and quiet. Design and installation procedures are basically a work in progress and manufacturers generally learn hard lessons by doing their beta testing with us...their customers. Happens in all industries. Volume exposes design weakness.
Last edited by Campag4life; 07-23-14 at 04:36 AM.
#102
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That sounds like UCI talk to me. Smilie face.
The only problem with "standards" is that it limits design and possible innovation. This is a double edged sword, I would agree, but it has yielded some good results. For instance, handlebar dia have all settled out at 31.8 which was a "standard" that came about as an innovation and was a non-standard size in the beginning.
Larger dia tubes allow for lighter weight and stiffer bikes but require larger dia seat posts, and fr der clamps to make it work (and look right). These were all non-standard at one point and have become standardized over time. Now we have three sizes instead of one (and braze-on which I think is always the answer).
Headsets went from 1" threaded to the 1/8-1/4 integrated we see now (or 1/8-1.5). This saved some weight, added some simplicity and opened up the HT of the bike for possible design innovation.
The various BB specs will settle out over the next few years until we have two or, more likely three that designers can chose from. We are just in an awkward period of transition right now that is the downside of this process.
The only problem with "standards" is that it limits design and possible innovation. This is a double edged sword, I would agree, but it has yielded some good results. For instance, handlebar dia have all settled out at 31.8 which was a "standard" that came about as an innovation and was a non-standard size in the beginning.
Larger dia tubes allow for lighter weight and stiffer bikes but require larger dia seat posts, and fr der clamps to make it work (and look right). These were all non-standard at one point and have become standardized over time. Now we have three sizes instead of one (and braze-on which I think is always the answer).
Headsets went from 1" threaded to the 1/8-1/4 integrated we see now (or 1/8-1.5). This saved some weight, added some simplicity and opened up the HT of the bike for possible design innovation.
The various BB specs will settle out over the next few years until we have two or, more likely three that designers can chose from. We are just in an awkward period of transition right now that is the downside of this process.
Last edited by Campag4life; 07-23-14 at 04:51 AM.
#103
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Newbie here... I'm new to this site, but not new to bikes or bike forums.
To the point of the original post "Okay....so why is BB30 such crap?" Well, I'm getting that lesson right now. I bought a Felt Z85 in September. In the spring, I started getting loud cracking/creaking noises - the BB30 needed a rebuild in May after 725 miles (shop covered it). I did take the bike on a 30 mile ride in the pouring rain, but it should be able to handle that, right? Fast forward to July, and the cracking/creaking noises are back - after some more wet miles. Shop said the BB30 is done, not rebuildable. After 1,200 miles of riding. That, that right there, that is crap!
The shop will replace at no cost, but why the hell would I do that?!?! To have to replace again less than a year? Or just make it a 'dry-ride' only bike?
So, I'm looking at a BB conversion and a new crackset, on a bike with only 1,200 miles on it. Not the upgrade I was planning to spend money on (really wanted to upgrade the wheels).
As a reference, my daily commuter (Kona Dew Drop) has well over 10,000 miles, all on the original BB. I ride it in all conditions (wet, snow, ice); in fact, last month I did the Westside Dirty Benjamin, 100-mile gravel ride, and it was pouring rain. It would be hard to give a BB worse conditions that 100 miles of wet gravel. The Kona, and it's BB, had no problems.
To the point of the original post "Okay....so why is BB30 such crap?" Well, I'm getting that lesson right now. I bought a Felt Z85 in September. In the spring, I started getting loud cracking/creaking noises - the BB30 needed a rebuild in May after 725 miles (shop covered it). I did take the bike on a 30 mile ride in the pouring rain, but it should be able to handle that, right? Fast forward to July, and the cracking/creaking noises are back - after some more wet miles. Shop said the BB30 is done, not rebuildable. After 1,200 miles of riding. That, that right there, that is crap!
The shop will replace at no cost, but why the hell would I do that?!?! To have to replace again less than a year? Or just make it a 'dry-ride' only bike?
So, I'm looking at a BB conversion and a new crackset, on a bike with only 1,200 miles on it. Not the upgrade I was planning to spend money on (really wanted to upgrade the wheels).
As a reference, my daily commuter (Kona Dew Drop) has well over 10,000 miles, all on the original BB. I ride it in all conditions (wet, snow, ice); in fact, last month I did the Westside Dirty Benjamin, 100-mile gravel ride, and it was pouring rain. It would be hard to give a BB worse conditions that 100 miles of wet gravel. The Kona, and it's BB, had no problems.
I have about 10,000 miles on a BB30 CAAD9 (Rival) and about 7,000 miles on a Super Six HM (Red), and (knock on wood) since the day we removed and reinstalled the BB never had a nickel's worth of trouble with either. I also have an EVO HM but it does nto have a lot of miles on it, maybe 2,000, but no issues.
Have BB30 on an abused cross bike...no issues.
I don't say that for any reason other than the bb in your bike was not properly installed and at our shop, we remove and reinstall the bb's before the bike's go on the floor or to storage for sale.
#104
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I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
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So, your shop has no faith in the manufacture's BB installation process; you remove the factory installed BB and re-install at the shop? This sounds very odd to me.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
It's how we sell about nine million in bikes a year. By providing top notch customer service.
Novel concept, eh?
Our guys have enough experience with this stuff that we, ready???...like to prevent issues we have seen in the past. That being an average installation by the factory where the guy does a ton of these in a day.
BTW...it takes no time to do this and we keep our customers happy so they do not go to other shops. Stunning stuff.
And no one was asking you to throw your favorite shop under the bus.
Breathe deeply and slowly...relax...
Last edited by roadwarrior; 07-23-14 at 08:33 AM.
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So, your shop has no faith in the manufacture's BB installation process; you remove the factory installed BB and re-install at the shop? This sounds very odd to me.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
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Your loyalty is both sensible and admirable, BUT it doesn't address the fundamental question. Does you shop adhere to the demonstrated BEST PRAACTICE for installing BB30 bearing cartridges, or does it not? Felt's methods are not germane at this point. That best practice includes green Loctite. If they are not doing that at least as soon as the original installation or subsequent reinstallation proves to be faulty, then they are not to be trusted to do this job. They should do it as a matter of course; it is the proven technique. But even if they do not do it originally, they should still not refuse to do it subsequently. I would have a discussion with them.
It's funny, not too many years ago a bike came from the factory almost totally disassembled. Now, it's the opposite, it's almost totally assembled so the mechanics have a bit more time on builds because of this. As a result we decided not to total trust a factory build when selling a bike. It's not so much that the factory guy does not know what he is doing, it's building a lot of bikes that can lead to mistakes or not going the extra few steps, like you mention with this system.
I'd prefer not to have to take a fairly new bike and explain why something failed when a few extra moments take care of the problem, up front.
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Good post...
It's funny, not too many years ago a bike came from the factory almost totally disassembled. Now, it's the opposite, it's almost totally assembled so the mechanics have a bit more time on builds because of this. As a result we decided not to total trust a factory build when selling a bike. It's not so much that the factory guy does not know what he is doing, it's building a lot of bikes that can lead to mistakes or not going the extra few steps, like you mention with this system.
I'd prefer not to have to take a fairly new bike and explain why something failed when a few extra moments take care of the problem, up front.
It's funny, not too many years ago a bike came from the factory almost totally disassembled. Now, it's the opposite, it's almost totally assembled so the mechanics have a bit more time on builds because of this. As a result we decided not to total trust a factory build when selling a bike. It's not so much that the factory guy does not know what he is doing, it's building a lot of bikes that can lead to mistakes or not going the extra few steps, like you mention with this system.
I'd prefer not to have to take a fairly new bike and explain why something failed when a few extra moments take care of the problem, up front.
#110
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No worries, very calm
Exactly why my shop has my loyalties. 15 years of over-the-top customer service - both with my families 10 bikes and ~6 snowboards. The shop treats me like family.
Now this makes me question, does Specialized, or Felt, or Trek, make few than 9M bikes per year? Basically, this statement says that they are putting lower quality product in the market. I'm just curious your thoughts. This is the first Felt I've bought. We have a couple Kona, a couple Marin, and a mix of other bikes in the family - all of them came from the factory in great condition. My Kona Dew Drop, with way over 10K on it, has had no 'factory' issues, the build quality and quality of the products selected for this bike are great!
Exactly why my shop has my loyalties. 15 years of over-the-top customer service - both with my families 10 bikes and ~6 snowboards. The shop treats me like family.
Now this makes me question, does Specialized, or Felt, or Trek, make few than 9M bikes per year? Basically, this statement says that they are putting lower quality product in the market. I'm just curious your thoughts. This is the first Felt I've bought. We have a couple Kona, a couple Marin, and a mix of other bikes in the family - all of them came from the factory in great condition. My Kona Dew Drop, with way over 10K on it, has had no 'factory' issues, the build quality and quality of the products selected for this bike are great!
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No worries, very calm
Exactly why my shop has my loyalties. 15 years of over-the-top customer service - both with my families 10 bikes and ~6 snowboards. The shop treats me like family.
Now this makes me question, does Specialized, or Felt, or Trek, make few than 9M bikes per year? Basically, this statement says that they are putting lower quality product in the market. I'm just curious your thoughts. This is the first Felt I've bought. We have a couple Kona, a couple Marin, and a mix of other bikes in the family - all of them came from the factory in great condition. My Kona Dew Drop, with way over 10K on it, has had no 'factory' issues, the build quality and quality of the products selected for this bike are great!
Exactly why my shop has my loyalties. 15 years of over-the-top customer service - both with my families 10 bikes and ~6 snowboards. The shop treats me like family.
Now this makes me question, does Specialized, or Felt, or Trek, make few than 9M bikes per year? Basically, this statement says that they are putting lower quality product in the market. I'm just curious your thoughts. This is the first Felt I've bought. We have a couple Kona, a couple Marin, and a mix of other bikes in the family - all of them came from the factory in great condition. My Kona Dew Drop, with way over 10K on it, has had no 'factory' issues, the build quality and quality of the products selected for this bike are great!
The point I think you need to appreciate as was explained previously by @Campag4life is that BB30 is a development that entered the market at the beta testing stage (either intentionally or not). So the outlook is for it to be a valuable advancement in BB technology once the kinks get worked out. The only known kink is not related to design or manufacturing execution of the parts; a recall for replacement of the BB30 components with a better design is not required. The only issue is installation technique. Once the Loctite method is universally followed, BB30 will not longer have endemic issues. So the as-delivered issue with BB30 bikes is real, but actually minor and easily remedied.
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So, your shop has no faith in the manufacture's BB installation process; you remove the factory installed BB and re-install at the shop? This sounds very odd to me.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
I confirmed with the shop, the BB30 was as installed by Felt. To be blunt, I have too much experience with this shop to throw them under the bus. Yes, there are things they can't handle, they know what those things are and tell me which shops can do it right.
If anybody struggles with something as rudimentary as properly setting up a BB30, then of course they should never even think about adjusting valves on a 4V Ducati..latter being rocket science by comparison...lol.
Last edited by Campag4life; 07-23-14 at 10:13 AM.
#114
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Many "innovations" are just marketing IMO. Always something "newer and better" must appear so people "upgrade" and spend.
As for me, I don't need stiffer cranksets, I'm 200W on a good day!
As for me, I don't need stiffer cranksets, I'm 200W on a good day!
#115
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IDK, maybe each factory/manufacture is different. I currently have 4 bikes I use all the time and all were delivered as-built from the manufacturer:
Kona Dew Drop (2009) - well over 10K and only wear parts replaced (chain, cassette, tires, etc). Hell, I still have the original grip tape and saddle - and those notoriously cheap on new bikes. This is a daily-commuter and see harsh conditions.
Marin Nail Trail (2005) - fewer miles, but MUCH harder miles - this is my winter-commuter and single-track bike - only replaces some minor wear items.
Globe Daily (2012) - won this bike as a prize in the National Bike Challenge - 2,000 miles and everything is original (expect the pedals, I hated the pedals that came with it).
Felt Z85 (2013) - well, you know the story (see earlier posts)
I am a biker, not a mechanic. I've been using bikes to get around since the mid-1980's ... so, I'm not really 'new' to this bike-thingy. I know how to service many of the basic maintenance items on my bikes, but that's not my joy. Clearly, I'm not the serious geek, i wouldn't be deep-diving into every bolt and bearing on the bike to know if it's the best/lightest/whatever. But, I'm not an idiot either. I'll let you know when I don't know stuff.
So, here's my question/challenge: Name your bike's brand/model, bottom bracket model, and miles before replacing. For example:
Felt Z85; BB30; 1,200 miles
Kona Dew Drop; RPM 7420(?); 10,800 miles &counting
Maybe my expectations are unrealistic based the experience I'm having with the Kona (this Kona is a beast, in all the best ways)
Last edited by Hypno Toad; 07-23-14 at 11:29 AM. Reason: typo (typical for me)
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As promised earlier - here's the picture of the drive-side bearing after 1,200 miles of riding.
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A bad bearing. If any bearing isn't packed with grease it will fail and failure will be accelerated by dirt ingress and/or water intrusion. Has nothing to do with BB30. Also, BB30 bearings aren't all the same. Some are crap with high tolerances aka ABEC-1 and other like ABEC 5 or 7 are much more robust. Also, ceramic bearing which are unnecessary in a BB30 application last longer under greased.
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Would you do the same thing with your brand new Honda Civic, rebuild the engine before driving it?
IDK, maybe each factory/manufacture is different. I currently have 4 bikes I use all the time and all were delivered as-built from the manufacturer:
Kona Dew Drop (2009) - well over 10K and only wear parts replaced (chain, cassette, tires, etc). Hell, I still have the original grip tape and saddle - and those notoriously cheap on new bikes. This is a daily-commuter and see harsh conditions.
Marin Nail Trail (2005) - fewer miles, but MUCH harder miles - this is my winter-commuter and single-track bike - only replaces some minor wear items.
Globe Daily (2012) - won this bike as a prize in the National Bike Challenge - 2,000 miles and everything is original (expect the pedals, I hated the pedals that came with it).
Felt Z85 (2013) - well, you know the story (see earlier posts)
I am a biker, not a mechanic. I've been using bikes to get around since the mid-1980's ... so, I'm not really 'new' to this bike-thingy. I know how to service many of the basic maintenance items on my bikes, but that's not my joy. Clearly, I'm not the serious geek, i wouldn't be deep-diving into every bolt and bearing on the bike to know if it's the best/lightest/whatever. But, I'm not an idiot either. I'll let you know when I don't know stuff.
So, here's my question/challenge: Name your bike's brand/model, bottom bracket model, and miles before replacing. For example:
Felt Z85; BB30; 1,200 miles
Kona Dew Drop; RPM 7420(?); 10,800 miles &counting
Maybe my expectations are unrealistic based the experience I'm having with the Kona (this Kona is a beast, in all the best ways)
IDK, maybe each factory/manufacture is different. I currently have 4 bikes I use all the time and all were delivered as-built from the manufacturer:
Kona Dew Drop (2009) - well over 10K and only wear parts replaced (chain, cassette, tires, etc). Hell, I still have the original grip tape and saddle - and those notoriously cheap on new bikes. This is a daily-commuter and see harsh conditions.
Marin Nail Trail (2005) - fewer miles, but MUCH harder miles - this is my winter-commuter and single-track bike - only replaces some minor wear items.
Globe Daily (2012) - won this bike as a prize in the National Bike Challenge - 2,000 miles and everything is original (expect the pedals, I hated the pedals that came with it).
Felt Z85 (2013) - well, you know the story (see earlier posts)
I am a biker, not a mechanic. I've been using bikes to get around since the mid-1980's ... so, I'm not really 'new' to this bike-thingy. I know how to service many of the basic maintenance items on my bikes, but that's not my joy. Clearly, I'm not the serious geek, i wouldn't be deep-diving into every bolt and bearing on the bike to know if it's the best/lightest/whatever. But, I'm not an idiot either. I'll let you know when I don't know stuff.
So, here's my question/challenge: Name your bike's brand/model, bottom bracket model, and miles before replacing. For example:
Felt Z85; BB30; 1,200 miles
Kona Dew Drop; RPM 7420(?); 10,800 miles &counting
Maybe my expectations are unrealistic based the experience I'm having with the Kona (this Kona is a beast, in all the best ways)
#119
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Yeah, you said you are bike rider. You aren't mechanically talented. So a guy like you buys a Honda motorcycle and it develops an engine failure you believe that Honda's have crap engines when the opposite is true. That is how personal experience works without further perspective.
If the engine fails inside of a year, yep, it's crap. Maybe it's not that Honda is crap. Your poorly made point, maybe BB30 isn't crap, but this is a crappy example. Not every Honda engine is going to go over 300K (like mine did). Not all BB30 will fail inside one year, mine did.
Perspective, please read my post. Decades of riding thousands of miles per year and multiple bikes, yep, I've got some experience and perspective.
In all those years, I've never had any component fail so quickly.
[h=3][/h]
#120
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For perspective, I have over 10K on a BB that get soaking wet, exposed to tons of gravel and dust, plus snow and ice in the winter. So, I know that other BB can take this kind of abuse. But base on this experience, I don't believe the BB30 can hold up this this kind of punishment.
#121
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Nope, I don't lack talent, I lack interest and passion.
If the engine fails inside of a year, yep, it's crap. Maybe it's not that Honda is crap. Your poorly made point, maybe BB30 isn't crap, but this is a crappy example. Not every Honda engine is going to go over 300K (like mine did). Not all BB30 will fail inside one year, mine did.
Perspective, please read my post. Decades of riding thousands of miles per year and multiple bikes, yep, I've got some experience and perspective.
In all those years, I've never had any component fail so quickly.
If the engine fails inside of a year, yep, it's crap. Maybe it's not that Honda is crap. Your poorly made point, maybe BB30 isn't crap, but this is a crappy example. Not every Honda engine is going to go over 300K (like mine did). Not all BB30 will fail inside one year, mine did.
Perspective, please read my post. Decades of riding thousands of miles per year and multiple bikes, yep, I've got some experience and perspective.
In all those years, I've never had any component fail so quickly.
#122
meh
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One way of looking at is...if an owner can't set up his BB30 to be quiet than he deserves to live with the noise or buy a lesser frameset with a threaded BB. Look at it as a litmus test or discriminator of sorts that will keep the worlds apart. That way guys who like BB30 can ride and appreciate them and guys who can't set them up to be quiet can live with their threaded BB and heavier crank.
And there's my point, you made it for me years ago. Thank you!
#124
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Nope, I don't lack talent, I lack interest and passion.
If the engine fails inside of a year, yep, it's crap. Maybe it's not that Honda is crap. Your poorly made point, maybe BB30 isn't crap, but this is a crappy example. Not every Honda engine is going to go over 300K (like mine did). Not all BB30 will fail inside one year, mine did.
Perspective, please read my post. Decades of riding thousands of miles per year and multiple bikes, yep, I've got some experience and perspective.
In all those years, I've never had any component fail so quickly.
If the engine fails inside of a year, yep, it's crap. Maybe it's not that Honda is crap. Your poorly made point, maybe BB30 isn't crap, but this is a crappy example. Not every Honda engine is going to go over 300K (like mine did). Not all BB30 will fail inside one year, mine did.
Perspective, please read my post. Decades of riding thousands of miles per year and multiple bikes, yep, I've got some experience and perspective.
In all those years, I've never had any component fail so quickly.
See Roadwarrior's comments? He raced in Europe and runs a bike shop and owns several BB30 bikes and sells them by the boat load. No issues.
There is nothing wrong with BB30. There is plenty wrong with the guys that throw BB30 under the bus and they get what they deserve. If you can't get one to work, buy a bike with a threaded BB. Pretty simple.
#125
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Prior to the industry moving in favor of Loctite, grease was spec'ed between bearing O.D. and BB30 bore I.D.'s. So yes, it can work, it is just much more variable....and more greatly dependent on tolerance stack up which determines bearing press. Loctite takes that out of the equation. If bearings balls are properly greased and outer races Loctited in place and crank preload is adjusted properly, BB30 can't creak. Using all grease is more variable.