Loose freehub body?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: RTP, NC
Posts: 2,190
Bikes: LOOK 595 & Cannondale CAAD9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Loose freehub body?
I just replaced my Red cassette with a 6700 cassette (didn't like Red), and after installing it I noticed it had quite a bit of play when I pinched opposite ends of the largest cog and gave it a little wiggle. The wheels are Dura Ace 7900 c24 clinchers. First, is it normal for a freehub body to loosen up after the initial break in? If so, is it possible to tighten the freehub body? Does this require a special tool?
Also, just FYI in case someone mentions it, I used the required 1mm spacer between the freehub body and the cassette so that's not the issue.
Thanks!
Also, just FYI in case someone mentions it, I used the required 1mm spacer between the freehub body and the cassette so that's not the issue.
Thanks!
Last edited by ilovecycling; 11-28-11 at 09:55 AM.
#2
I eat carbide.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 21,627
Bikes: Lots. Van Dessel and Squid Dealer
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1325 Post(s)
Liked 1,306 Times
in
560 Posts
No. "You're doing it wrong."
There should not be any play in a cassette once it is mounted correctly. Use the appropriate lockring tool and torque the lockring down to 40Nm. If there is still play then you're missing something.
There should not be any play in a cassette once it is mounted correctly. Use the appropriate lockring tool and torque the lockring down to 40Nm. If there is still play then you're missing something.
__________________
PSIMET Wheels, PSIMET Racing, PSIMET Neutral Race Support, and 11 Jackson Coffee
Podcast - YouTube Channel
Video about PSIMET Wheels
Podcast - YouTube Channel
Video about PSIMET Wheels
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: RTP, NC
Posts: 2,190
Bikes: LOOK 595 & Cannondale CAAD9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I used the appropriate lockring tool and torqued it down to exactly 40Nm with my Park Tool torque wrench. All the black spacers that read "10S" are present and in their correct location.
The cassette is not loose on the freehub body. It doesn't have play from side to side. However, when I grab the opposite ends of the largest cassette and rock it like a teeter totter there is some play. This leads me to believe the freehub body itself has developed some play. At first I was thinking maybe I was turning it backwards a little bit, which I was perceiving as play, but even when I keep the pressure forward against the internal pawl mechanism the freehub/cassette is rocking a bit. It's not a whole lot, but there's definitely more than there used to be. I used to have a 6700 cassette on there when the wheels were new and before I had the Red cassette. I remember checking for play each time I installed a cassette. There was none with that first 6700 cassette, just barely any with the Red cassette, and now there's significantly more.
The cassette is not loose on the freehub body. It doesn't have play from side to side. However, when I grab the opposite ends of the largest cassette and rock it like a teeter totter there is some play. This leads me to believe the freehub body itself has developed some play. At first I was thinking maybe I was turning it backwards a little bit, which I was perceiving as play, but even when I keep the pressure forward against the internal pawl mechanism the freehub/cassette is rocking a bit. It's not a whole lot, but there's definitely more than there used to be. I used to have a 6700 cassette on there when the wheels were new and before I had the Red cassette. I remember checking for play each time I installed a cassette. There was none with that first 6700 cassette, just barely any with the Red cassette, and now there's significantly more.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: RTP, NC
Posts: 2,190
Bikes: LOOK 595 & Cannondale CAAD9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
From what I understand freehub bodies can be removed and replaced. Is this correct?
If so, doesn't this mean there's some sort of nut or lockring to secure the freehub body onto the hub? I imagine if there is then it's possible for this to become loose. I could take the cassette off again and check it out when I get home from work, but I don't want to waste my time doing that if some play is normal or if there is no way to tighten the freehub body.
If so, doesn't this mean there's some sort of nut or lockring to secure the freehub body onto the hub? I imagine if there is then it's possible for this to become loose. I could take the cassette off again and check it out when I get home from work, but I don't want to waste my time doing that if some play is normal or if there is no way to tighten the freehub body.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
From what I understand freehub bodies can be removed and replaced. Is this correct?
If so, doesn't this mean there's some sort of nut or lockring to secure the freehub body onto the hub? I imagine if there is then it's possible for this to become loose. I could take the cassette off again and check it out when I get home from work, but I don't want to waste my time doing that if some play is normal or if there is no way to tighten the freehub body.
If so, doesn't this mean there's some sort of nut or lockring to secure the freehub body onto the hub? I imagine if there is then it's possible for this to become loose. I could take the cassette off again and check it out when I get home from work, but I don't want to waste my time doing that if some play is normal or if there is no way to tighten the freehub body.
#8
Senior Member
Think you need to take the axle out to remove the freehub body (might be wrong though.) Shimano hubs I've worked on need a 10mm allen key to get the freehub off after you take the axle out, is there any play in the freehub without a cassette on it?
Otherwise sounds like something has gouged your splines and that could be accounting for the play in the larger sprockets.
Otherwise sounds like something has gouged your splines and that could be accounting for the play in the larger sprockets.
Last edited by Minion1; 11-28-11 at 08:46 PM.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: S. Bay
Posts: 459
Bikes: Madone 5.2, Specialized Allez Epic, Giant RiconSE
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You mention the black spacers, but did you place the thin silver spacer/ ring before you start putting the casstte?
My Shimano wheel requires that spacer to correctly tighten and align the casstte.
Btw, sorry to OP for interruption, but does anyone know where I can find a sleeve to insert on the spline from gouging ? I thought I read in the BF that someone has suggested.
My Shimano wheel requires that spacer to correctly tighten and align the casstte.
Btw, sorry to OP for interruption, but does anyone know where I can find a sleeve to insert on the spline from gouging ? I thought I read in the BF that someone has suggested.
#10
Ha ha ha ha ha
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Gold Coast; Australia
Posts: 4,554
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
#11
Mr. Dopolina
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 10,217
Bikes: KUUPAS, Simpson VR
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times
in
41 Posts
Did the locknuts on your axle get loosened by mistake when you were swapping cassettes?
Last edited by Bob Dopolina; 11-29-11 at 07:43 AM.
#12
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 46
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Had the same issue with my stock ultegra wheels that i noticed after looking into shifting issues. At first i thought it was the the cassette lockring, but when i got the tool to remove the cassette lockring, it turns out that the whole freehub body was moving. I just needed cone wretches to tighten the lock nut on the axle that held the freehub body in place.
#13
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,294
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 709 Times
in
363 Posts
The problem is you're trying to use 105 spacers on an Ultegra cassette.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#15
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,294
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 709 Times
in
363 Posts
"roll eyes (sarcastic)"
Goes back to a thread where a guy thought he got ripped off because his Dura Ace cassette had "105" spacers, thinking the 10S was 105.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: S. Bay
Posts: 459
Bikes: Madone 5.2, Specialized Allez Epic, Giant RiconSE
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Think you need to take the axle out to remove the freehub body (might be wrong though.) Shimano hubs I've worked on need a 10mm allen key to get the freehub off after you take the axle out, is there any play in the freehub without a cassette on it?
Otherwise sounds like something has gouged your splines and that could be accounting for the play in the larger sprockets.
Otherwise sounds like something has gouged your splines and that could be accounting for the play in the larger sprockets.
#19
ka maté ka maté ka ora
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: wessex
Posts: 4,423
Bikes: breezer venturi - red novo bosberg - red, pedal force cg1 - red, neuvation f-100 - da, devinci phantom - xt, miele piste - miche/campy, bianchi reparto corse sbx, concorde squadra tsx - da, miele team issue sl - ultegra
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
You mention the black spacers, but did you place the thin silver spacer/ ring before you start putting the casstte?
My Shimano wheel requires that spacer to correctly tighten and align the casstte.
Btw, sorry to OP for interruption, but does anyone know where I can find a sleeve to insert on the spline from gouging ? I thought I read in the BF that someone has suggested.
My Shimano wheel requires that spacer to correctly tighten and align the casstte.
Btw, sorry to OP for interruption, but does anyone know where I can find a sleeve to insert on the spline from gouging ? I thought I read in the BF that someone has suggested.