Buy a level or, you're doing it wrong.
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So general rules of thumb regarding hubs:
1. you should be able to read the label through the valve hole.
2. if your stem is the correct length when you're on the hoods you should look down and the flats of the bar should be in a straight line between your eye and the hub.
3. your saddle nose should not be pointing at your front hub.
that right?
1. you should be able to read the label through the valve hole.
2. if your stem is the correct length when you're on the hoods you should look down and the flats of the bar should be in a straight line between your eye and the hub.
3. your saddle nose should not be pointing at your front hub.
that right?
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#28
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TLDR my guess is that its cause the cockpit is to forward or they are trying to get down in front with to forward of a cockpit. that was my problem when i had to long of stems.
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So general rules of thumb regarding hubs:
1. you should be able to read the label through the valve hole.
2. if your stem is the correct length when you're on the hoods you should look down and the flats of the bar should be in a straight line between your eye and the hub.
3. your saddle nose should not be pointing at your front hub.
that right?
1. you should be able to read the label through the valve hole.
2. if your stem is the correct length when you're on the hoods you should look down and the flats of the bar should be in a straight line between your eye and the hub.
3. your saddle nose should not be pointing at your front hub.
that right?
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Stem length is a tough one because what's right, at first, feels bad since your back and core needs to build up the strength to ride comfortably. I figure lots of people are riding on stems that are too small because they got a sore back from the longer stems and didn't stick with it long enough. At least that's what the santa claus looking bike fitter at REI told me, I agree with him.
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True, most people that put miles down eventually figure out that something is very wrong. I even did it back when I was doing triathlons. I started training for half Ironmans w/ lots of time on the bike and realized that I needed to change my position. I lowered the seat, leveled the saddle and all was good again.
Btw, datlas how tall are you? That axle to saddle length looks like it's 90cm or so - you have some long legs, son.
Btw, datlas how tall are you? That axle to saddle length looks like it's 90cm or so - you have some long legs, son.
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Not something I thought about when setting my stem, just tried a couple of lengths until I found one that felt right, but I've read that around here somewhere - not that reading it on bikeforums makes it right by any means.
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#34
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#35
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You are my alter ego!! Everyone who sees me sitting thinks I am short....then I stand up and they are surprised!!
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Hah, I'm the same height with a slightly shorter cycling inseam. My position looks very similar to yours. My wife called me "Torso" back when we were dating.
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We get lots of custom orders from spider monkey people. Mid 6' range, 57cm toptubes and 15+cm or drop. It usually looks extreme on paper, but once you paste a rider onto them they look nice and balanced.
It's pretty fantastic that most of the big brands make bikes with wicked long headtubes, especially right now with the DUMP and SLAM meme hitting hard.
It's pretty fantastic that most of the big brands make bikes with wicked long headtubes, especially right now with the DUMP and SLAM meme hitting hard.
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#39
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#40
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We get lots of custom orders from spider monkey people. Mid 6' range, 57cm toptubes and 15+cm or drop. It usually looks extreme on paper, but once you paste a rider onto them they look nice and balanced.
It's pretty fantastic that most of the big brands make bikes with wicked long headtubes, especially right now with the DUMP and SLAM meme hitting hard.
It's pretty fantastic that most of the big brands make bikes with wicked long headtubes, especially right now with the DUMP and SLAM meme hitting hard.
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My saddle has a downward tilt, but it's nearly all the way back on the rails and I feel balanced over the BB. No soreness in the hands after 3+ hours, no soreness in the shoulders, nor do I feel as if I'm sliding forward and have to scoot back. I tilted it down because the nose was up in my taint when I got "on the rivet" in fast group rides, and it was bugging me.
Sometimes it just depends.
Sometimes it just depends.
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#44
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I thought their archenemy could be "Team Cinzano." But your idea is good too.
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"spider monkey people" ...I'll have to remember that one.
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Just saw this... That's funny. Finding fitted shirts must be hell.
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while we are on the seat rant, please send the message that your shifters should not be pointed up at crazy angles. i see bikes all the time on craigslist that have the seatposts jacked way up, seat pointing down and the the shifters way up. the lower portion of drop handlebars should also be parallel with the ground.
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I put a level to mine, from the nose to the highest part of the rear of the saddle, then once level and adjusted, I angle it between about 4 -6 degrees up in the front. That's what works for me. IF you have too much weight on your hands with a level saddle, move it back some.
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"Buy a level or, you're doing it wrong. "
Complete hogwash. In fact, if you see a "bike fitter" come towards you with a level or plumb-bob, run away.
What does gravity have to do with proper bike position (whether it be gravity measured with a plumb-bob or the perpendicular of gravity as measured with a level)?
For example, you could have a perfect bike fit with the optimal position for maximal power output for your body that just happened to include a saddle position that was perfectly level. Then you decide to use a larger wheel on the rear (a change in frame geometry would be another example). Now, you would have the exact same optimal body position on the bike but the saddle would be pointed slightly downward (as to its relation to gravity).
Again, if you see a clown coming at you with a plumb-bob or a level, walk out of that store. The guy doesn't know what he is doing.
Complete hogwash. In fact, if you see a "bike fitter" come towards you with a level or plumb-bob, run away.
What does gravity have to do with proper bike position (whether it be gravity measured with a plumb-bob or the perpendicular of gravity as measured with a level)?
For example, you could have a perfect bike fit with the optimal position for maximal power output for your body that just happened to include a saddle position that was perfectly level. Then you decide to use a larger wheel on the rear (a change in frame geometry would be another example). Now, you would have the exact same optimal body position on the bike but the saddle would be pointed slightly downward (as to its relation to gravity).
Again, if you see a clown coming at you with a plumb-bob or a level, walk out of that store. The guy doesn't know what he is doing.