Choosing a new aggressive frame!
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Choosing a new aggressive frame!
I currently ride a 2011 SL3 Specialized Roubaix Expert with a full Ultegra set but I feel that the frame isn't aggressive enough so I'm looking for a frame much like the S. Tarmac where I can lean lower on the drops and be more aerodynamic.
What frame would you recommend to me that's under $3k?
Thanks!
What frame would you recommend to me that's under $3k?
Thanks!
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specialized frames are so aggressive that they will sue, maim and then kill any person, animal or small bike manufacturer that stands in their way.
#4
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I have a 2011 Tarmac sl3 for sale in the classifieds. Would ride similarly to your roubaix, but is more aggressive.
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I currently ride a 2011 SL3 Specialized Roubaix Expert with a full Ultegra set but I feel that the frame isn't aggressive enough so I'm looking for a frame much like the S. Tarmac where I can lean lower on the drops and be more aerodynamic.
What frame would you recommend to me that's under $3k?
Thanks!
What frame would you recommend to me that's under $3k?
Thanks!
#6
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#7
moth -----> flame
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It sounds as though you're looking for a bike with a shorter head tube first and foremost. What size frame is your Roubaix? You could compare the head tube size for your current bike with the same size Tarmac and then go shopping from there.
In my frame size (54) it looks as though the Roubaix has a 165 HT, compared to a 145 for the Tarmac. A CAAD 10 has a 140 HT in the same frame size, depending on what kind of riding your into, and assuming you didn't want to find a lower spec Tarmac I'd check out the 10-3 Ultegra or 10 - 4 Rival and by some nice wheels.
In my frame size (54) it looks as though the Roubaix has a 165 HT, compared to a 145 for the Tarmac. A CAAD 10 has a 140 HT in the same frame size, depending on what kind of riding your into, and assuming you didn't want to find a lower spec Tarmac I'd check out the 10-3 Ultegra or 10 - 4 Rival and by some nice wheels.
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Sorry, I don't really know much about bikes - but I do ride a lot. My frame size is 58cm and what I really want is to lower the handlebars a bit so I can drop down to be more aerodynamic. How would I go about doing this?
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#10
moth -----> flame
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Two things to do:
1) if your stem (the tube that connects the bars to the steerer tube) is pointing up, try removing it and rotating it 180 degrees so that it points downwards. This would be the legendary "flip it" move.
2) do you have spacers underneath your stem? (little discs of plastic/carbon fiber) if so you can remove the stem, remove the spacers, replace your stem and put the spacers back on top. This will lower the entire stem/bar assembly.
1) if your stem (the tube that connects the bars to the steerer tube) is pointing up, try removing it and rotating it 180 degrees so that it points downwards. This would be the legendary "flip it" move.
2) do you have spacers underneath your stem? (little discs of plastic/carbon fiber) if so you can remove the stem, remove the spacers, replace your stem and put the spacers back on top. This will lower the entire stem/bar assembly.
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"A lot" is a relative term. I ride on average 15 hours a week...that tells you something. Second, we still know nothing about your bike setup and it sounds like you don't either. Post a pic, I'll bet you get more advice than you want and it will actually give us the info we need to be helpful. BTW, you can always bend your arms at the elbows.
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To add to beaker's comments, even if your stem is flipped you could replace it with higher angle stem, too.
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I rode for years on a bike that was the right size for most people my height, but not aggressive enough, and found myself in the drops most of the time (probably about 70%). When I got a smaller frame with a low stack height, I was instantly more comfortable and could ride longer ...and faster.
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This Fuji might improve your performances:
The Fuji Altamira 3.0 ~ 105 @ $2,530
Of course, this Kestrel is just a touch better from bikesdirect.com
The Kestrel RT 800 ~ Dura Ace @ $2,700
- Slim
PS.
Assuming a more aerodynamic posture is not nearly as important as building up your leg and butt muscles. I've seen guys on cheap hybrids, beat guys with high end road bikes!
You've got a nice bike. Just rebuild the engine!
The Fuji Altamira 3.0 ~ 105 @ $2,530
Of course, this Kestrel is just a touch better from bikesdirect.com
The Kestrel RT 800 ~ Dura Ace @ $2,700
- Slim
PS.
Assuming a more aerodynamic posture is not nearly as important as building up your leg and butt muscles. I've seen guys on cheap hybrids, beat guys with high end road bikes!
You've got a nice bike. Just rebuild the engine!
Last edited by SlimRider; 02-06-12 at 02:58 AM.
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There's a lot more with a more agressive bike than the Roubaix than just the headtube height. For example the Tarmac has a full degree steeper seatube angle in a size 56, a wheelbase that's 24 mm shorter, 10 mm shorter chainstays, and huge difference between the forks rake and trail.
Why not test ride a Tarmac and see how you like it?
Why not test ride a Tarmac and see how you like it?
Last edited by StanSeven; 02-06-12 at 08:39 AM.
#21
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Obviously the internets are in a bit of a huff over this question. I mean seriously, who would ever need to get more aerodynamic on a bike, right?
There are a few things you can do without buying a new frame. You can choose a stem angled -17 degrees to get the bars lower. You can get a longer stem, stretching you out and effectively getting you lower. There might be something to do about the headset stack (the stackup of spacers between the top bearing of the fork and the bottom of the stem). You can probably drop your bars an inch or so using methods like these.
If you are intent on a new frame or bike, then most offerings by most manufacturers are pretty good. Look at the literature from the manufacturers and find the "pro-fit" or "race fit" or whatever BS language they use to set a race frame apart from touring/recreational riding frames. Bike shops are great at this type of question and won't throw ridicule your way like what happens on the internets.
There are a few things you can do without buying a new frame. You can choose a stem angled -17 degrees to get the bars lower. You can get a longer stem, stretching you out and effectively getting you lower. There might be something to do about the headset stack (the stackup of spacers between the top bearing of the fork and the bottom of the stem). You can probably drop your bars an inch or so using methods like these.
If you are intent on a new frame or bike, then most offerings by most manufacturers are pretty good. Look at the literature from the manufacturers and find the "pro-fit" or "race fit" or whatever BS language they use to set a race frame apart from touring/recreational riding frames. Bike shops are great at this type of question and won't throw ridicule your way like what happens on the internets.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#22
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Dude, not helpful.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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You could always get a 2009 CAAD9 (which many hold in higher esteem than the CAAD10) frame and build it up. I've tried the Tarmac and I thought it wasn't responsive enough for my needs. Be aware though the CAAD9s do take a lot of effort to ride smoothly esp when tired.