Gone in 10 seconds - how was my bike was totaled?
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Lake Claire, GA
Posts: 802
Bikes: 2008 Giant TCR Advanced
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This sucks. But makes me want to go out an double check my QR on a regular basis. I always get nervous on days I transport my bike on my roof rack and check my QR and brakes so often i look like an idiot. However I never check it as I ride out form my apartment. I'll be more carefull now. I may relearn how to align my RD and FD.
#52
Portland Fred
Thank you to everyone for the quick replies. I know I've explained the part that failed poorly - I've googled it more and think it's referred to as the rear dropout. Here's an attempt to post an image of what the part looks like:
https://www.otmbikes.com/pmw/image/ca...10-150x150.jpg
It snapped right above where the quick release was.
https://www.otmbikes.com/pmw/image/ca...10-150x150.jpg
It snapped right above where the quick release was.
I was thinking, while reading the first post, that some earlier event had bent the DR or weakened the DR hanger and that it broke under the stress of a hard acceleration. Surely the lower limit screw was not set incorrectly, and if it were that's not a normal maintenance issue is it?
When someone mentioned the QR I thought, "that must be it, perfectly logical" but OP swears the QR was tight. If there wasn't any earlier event bending the hanger etc, then it pretty much has to have been a defect in the frame/hanger and it should be warrantied. So I'm guessing that the bicycle company doesn't believe OP and figures he dropped it at some point.
When someone mentioned the QR I thought, "that must be it, perfectly logical" but OP swears the QR was tight. If there wasn't any earlier event bending the hanger etc, then it pretty much has to have been a defect in the frame/hanger and it should be warrantied. So I'm guessing that the bicycle company doesn't believe OP and figures he dropped it at some point.
This is worth following up on as closer inspection of the hanger should tell the story.
Don't think about your chain -- that's not the issue. When I mentioned that as a possibility the first time, I meant that if it were a link too short and you tried to shift into the large/large gear combo, it could destroy your transmission. The only chain problems that could possibly cause the problems you encountered would be if the chain were too short, total failure, or maybe something got caught in the chain and jammed the RD. None of those potential causes fit the symptoms you describe as any of them would have been catastrophic (i.e. they don't fit the slipping you report).
#53
Senior Member
#54
SuperGimp
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
If I had to speculate with the info we've got so far, my guess is this: when the rider went to clip in, he backpedaled a little, but the drivetrain didn't let the chain travel in reverse smoothly, resulting in the upper span of chain going limp, and one way or another, it ended up overboard in the spokes. The chain had enough grip on the spokes and cassette to pedal forward with (but feeling like it's slipping, as reported), but then dragged the RD around with the wheel.
I had a similar end result once when my SRAM PowerLink disconnected while riding. With the chain broken on the lower run between the RD and the crank, the RD's tension whipped the chain backwards, spooled it around the pulley cage, and the end result was that my RD was literally torn in half and my RD hanger (on a steel bike) was seriously bent. Dare I call it a "chain reaction" incident...
Anyway, the backpedal-on-rollout is something I've personally noticed, being a cross-chaining stoplight drag-racer type. Could be a contributing factor here, but we'll never know for certain.
I had a similar end result once when my SRAM PowerLink disconnected while riding. With the chain broken on the lower run between the RD and the crank, the RD's tension whipped the chain backwards, spooled it around the pulley cage, and the end result was that my RD was literally torn in half and my RD hanger (on a steel bike) was seriously bent. Dare I call it a "chain reaction" incident...
Anyway, the backpedal-on-rollout is something I've personally noticed, being a cross-chaining stoplight drag-racer type. Could be a contributing factor here, but we'll never know for certain.
#56
The Weird Beard
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Agreed. Not long on the social graces.
OP, this is how the Road Forum works. You make a post, and almost everyone else tries to disprove your point of view. There appear to be many grey areas that are beyond your control by which a manufacturer could deny a claim. That part sucks. Correct are the assertions of others that once your limit screws are set, you should not ever have to reset them unless you are maybe changing a chain or have to re-adjust your RD (and even then it is not likely). The only reason I would check my QR is if I had left my bike in public for any amount of time. I had a friend almost biff it hard because some nitwit loosened the QR.
Performance is not really the enigma they used to be - other local shops (around these parts) have caught up with price and service, despite economies of scale. Learn how to work on your own bike to the point where you can build one and you will not have to worry about the work of others ever again.
OP, this is how the Road Forum works. You make a post, and almost everyone else tries to disprove your point of view. There appear to be many grey areas that are beyond your control by which a manufacturer could deny a claim. That part sucks. Correct are the assertions of others that once your limit screws are set, you should not ever have to reset them unless you are maybe changing a chain or have to re-adjust your RD (and even then it is not likely). The only reason I would check my QR is if I had left my bike in public for any amount of time. I had a friend almost biff it hard because some nitwit loosened the QR.
Performance is not really the enigma they used to be - other local shops (around these parts) have caught up with price and service, despite economies of scale. Learn how to work on your own bike to the point where you can build one and you will not have to worry about the work of others ever again.
#57
Portland Fred
If I had to speculate with the info we've got so far, my guess is this: when the rider went to clip in, he backpedaled a little, but the drivetrain didn't let the chain travel in reverse smoothly, resulting in the upper span of chain going limp, and one way or another, it ended up overboard in the spokes. The chain had enough grip on the spokes and cassette to pedal forward with (but feeling like it's slipping, as reported), but then dragged the RD around with the wheel.
Correct are the assertions of others that once your limit screws are set, you should not ever have to reset them unless you are maybe changing a chain or have to re-adjust your RD (and even then it is not likely). The only reason I would check my QR is if I had left my bike in public for any amount of time. I had a friend almost biff it hard because some nitwit loosened the QR.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 170
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Seriously?
Once properly set there is no reason to check derailleur travel. I have bikes I haven't touched the limits on in 5 years. As long as no event bends the derailleur or the hanger there is no need to check its adjustment and I know of NOONE who checks this on every ride. And QR tension? Again why? If it was right when you put the wheel on why isn't it still right (unless someone messed with it to f with you)?
The ONLY thing I check every ride is my tire pressure and really that isn't even necessary...more like every 4 days or so.
Once properly set there is no reason to check derailleur travel. I have bikes I haven't touched the limits on in 5 years. As long as no event bends the derailleur or the hanger there is no need to check its adjustment and I know of NOONE who checks this on every ride. And QR tension? Again why? If it was right when you put the wheel on why isn't it still right (unless someone messed with it to f with you)?
The ONLY thing I check every ride is my tire pressure and really that isn't even necessary...more like every 4 days or so.
Derailer travel is also a quick check, go into the big/big combo, stop and continue to try to downshift the rear while stopped. It shouldn't move into the wheel. Seriously, all of this takes 10 seconds.
When parking, whether in a rack or in a garage, your RD gets hit all the time and it doesn't take much.
Yes, I'm OCD, but I can't be late for work or stranded in the middle of a 50 mile ride.
#59
The Weird Beard
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
And I thought I was OCD. You are talking about things that, while an easy and quick check, simply perpetuate the OCD. The best thing the OP can do is learn how to wrench his own bike so the likelihood of this ending in a similar tragedy is minimized.
I just checked my QR's, and they are as tight as when I last installed them, three weeks ago.
I just checked my QR's, and they are as tight as when I last installed them, three weeks ago.
#60
Portland Fred
The QR can be eliminated as a potential cause in the OP's circumstance as it was still locked down after the failure.
#61
He drop me
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Central PA
Posts: 11,664
Bikes: '03 Marin Mill Valley, '02 Eddy Merckx Corsa 0.1, '12 Giant Defy Advance, '20 Giant Revolt 1, '20 Giant Defy Advanced Pro 1, some random 6KU fixie
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
QRs can and do walk out. It's more of a disc brake thing, but it also happens on rim brakes. Seriously, go check your QRs now, I guarantee that some of them will be looser than you think, even with good skewers. There's a reason the "lawyer lips" are there and it ain't for looks.
There's a reason I file the lawyer tabs off all of my forks...don't need to adjust the QR when removing a wheel and it reduces the chance that I didn't get it tight. Lawyer tabs are there for the fools that don't know how to properly tighten a QR. For instance I've seen it where someone uses the handle for torque to tighten the nut thinking that's how it works rather than closing the handle. Seen that too many times to count in fact.
Also there are no lawyer tabs on the rear which can be significant if the wheel is pulled forward out of the dropout on hard acceleration.
I had typed a ton more but deleted it...no need to get into a pissing match. Each to their own...you think I'm nuts for not checking them I think your nuts for checking them so often. We both ride bikes so it's all good right?
__________________
The views expressed by this poster do not reflect the views of BikeForums.net.
The views expressed by this poster do not reflect the views of BikeForums.net.
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 900
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good luck. Same thing happened to my buddy with his brand new Orbea with less than 10 miles on it. Orbea would not cover anything and the shop refused to replace anything as well. The scratches to the frame remained and it cost him a band new Campy Super Record rear derailleur and some spokes.
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 644
Bikes: Scott scale 29er, Gary fisher Rig SS 29er, Fuji Cross pro, Novara Randonee, Scattante TI custom build, Fuji Team
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A few things as I have a 2008 Fuji TEAM, but was looking at a pro at the time....
First off- the frame. From what I remember, the TEAM and TEAM PRO were the same frame, but different carbon C4 vs C6 or some baloney. Now Im looking at my TEAM frame, and it has a standard replaceable hanger, that is bolted onto a metal bracket of sorts integrated into the seat/chain stay. Obviously, as the poster mentioned, the carbon stay broke, but I believe there IS a hanger on there... that just didnt 'give'. I ALSO remember talks of driveside chainstays fatiguing and breaking, as I keep an eye on mine for cracks. My personal thought is you either threw the RD into the spokes, causing the break, or possible the crack was already there, you downshifted and put out some serious watts, and the frame finally cracked... causing the whole back end to fold on itself. The slipping may have been the rear wheel slipping, on leaves, an incline, or wet pavement.
Now, all that said, its hard to you to prove its a warranty issue, and its easy for them to clain its not a warranty issue. It possibly was, possibly was not. Badgering this point (unless possible Performance never actually had Fuji look at it) is pretty futile in my books.
Getting carbon repaired isnt too expensive these days.
As for the '100% performance guarantee', this is what I was be looking at. Im sure its part of the manager's discretion. And he doesnt want to do anything for you. I BENT a hanger on one of their lynskey welded Ti frames, and couldnt find a replacement. I had to make lots of calls to performance to track down some spare hangers, but I had to FIGHT with them... because they just wanted me to return the frame and gve me a refund... for a bent hanger... I would think if you connect with the right person, and cite your 'unsatisfaction', they will eventually do something for you, although not welcome you for more high end purchases.
good luck!
First off- the frame. From what I remember, the TEAM and TEAM PRO were the same frame, but different carbon C4 vs C6 or some baloney. Now Im looking at my TEAM frame, and it has a standard replaceable hanger, that is bolted onto a metal bracket of sorts integrated into the seat/chain stay. Obviously, as the poster mentioned, the carbon stay broke, but I believe there IS a hanger on there... that just didnt 'give'. I ALSO remember talks of driveside chainstays fatiguing and breaking, as I keep an eye on mine for cracks. My personal thought is you either threw the RD into the spokes, causing the break, or possible the crack was already there, you downshifted and put out some serious watts, and the frame finally cracked... causing the whole back end to fold on itself. The slipping may have been the rear wheel slipping, on leaves, an incline, or wet pavement.
Now, all that said, its hard to you to prove its a warranty issue, and its easy for them to clain its not a warranty issue. It possibly was, possibly was not. Badgering this point (unless possible Performance never actually had Fuji look at it) is pretty futile in my books.
Getting carbon repaired isnt too expensive these days.
As for the '100% performance guarantee', this is what I was be looking at. Im sure its part of the manager's discretion. And he doesnt want to do anything for you. I BENT a hanger on one of their lynskey welded Ti frames, and couldnt find a replacement. I had to make lots of calls to performance to track down some spare hangers, but I had to FIGHT with them... because they just wanted me to return the frame and gve me a refund... for a bent hanger... I would think if you connect with the right person, and cite your 'unsatisfaction', they will eventually do something for you, although not welcome you for more high end purchases.
good luck!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chris2006
General Cycling Discussion
6
09-10-15 01:33 AM
timtak
Bicycle Mechanics
6
05-18-13 10:14 AM