If I need to run a 60mm stem, is my bike too big?
04-30-12, 08:35 PM
#26
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I'm 6'1'' and ride a 56cm.
From my noob eyes it looks like your torso isn't bending much but your arms are reaching out... that's probably giving you the feeling of feeling stretched out. Rather than following general fitting advice from online resources try to find someone who is an experienced fitter.
I felt OK on my 58 and felt my 56 was too small so I got a setback which created more issues. Got fitted and found out I needed a 0 setback and some adjustments before the fit was PERFECT. I probably belong on a 57 though.
In your case I would say don't get a 56. The drop from the saddle to bars is going to be more. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try to raise your seatpost a bit and move your seat back. Take up Yoga if you have to.
As a 6'1'' male this is what I have to do to fit on a 56. Notice the drop...
[IMG]
[/IMG]
From my noob eyes it looks like your torso isn't bending much but your arms are reaching out... that's probably giving you the feeling of feeling stretched out. Rather than following general fitting advice from online resources try to find someone who is an experienced fitter.
I felt OK on my 58 and felt my 56 was too small so I got a setback which created more issues. Got fitted and found out I needed a 0 setback and some adjustments before the fit was PERFECT. I probably belong on a 57 though.
In your case I would say don't get a 56. The drop from the saddle to bars is going to be more. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try to raise your seatpost a bit and move your seat back. Take up Yoga if you have to.
As a 6'1'' male this is what I have to do to fit on a 56. Notice the drop...
[IMG]
[/IMG]
04-30-12, 08:59 PM
#27
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agree with the comments for a longer stem. it is counter-intuitive, but trust me, being cramped is extremely uncomfortable.
your neck will probably complain a bit, and you'll feel it in your back and glutes a lot more than mountainbiking at first. I would go ahead and get a fit, and pay attention to what the fitter is doing. you will gain flexibility and comfort with the road position and you'll most likely end up lower and longer than the fitter sets up for you right now.
but you can then make those future changes on your own.
your neck will probably complain a bit, and you'll feel it in your back and glutes a lot more than mountainbiking at first. I would go ahead and get a fit, and pay attention to what the fitter is doing. you will gain flexibility and comfort with the road position and you'll most likely end up lower and longer than the fitter sets up for you right now.
but you can then make those future changes on your own.
04-30-12, 09:19 PM
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Your bike is not too big. The problem with fit calculators is that people don't measure themselves right I think.
When I first got my road bike, I thought it was too big. My top tube clearance is like half an inch, too. My flexibility increased a lot over time. Now I think I need a longer stem, because I have long arms.
When I first got my road bike, I thought it was too big. My top tube clearance is like half an inch, too. My flexibility increased a lot over time. Now I think I need a longer stem, because I have long arms.
04-30-12, 10:11 PM
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As a 6'2" guy who rides anything between a 54 and 58 I would say that to me you look like you are sat too far forward and are relying on your arms too much for ballance, henct the feeling of reaching too far.
My bet is that moving the seat back will alter your centre of gravity and make you more comfortable. Its also free to try
As for everything else I wont guess from a photo other than to rotate your bars as suggested so the drops are at a more comfortable angle and then unwrap the bar tape to fix the hoods at a comfortable angle too.
Also remeasure your seat tube, from the photo that doesn't look like a 58 tall seat tube?
My bet is that moving the seat back will alter your centre of gravity and make you more comfortable. Its also free to try
As for everything else I wont guess from a photo other than to rotate your bars as suggested so the drops are at a more comfortable angle and then unwrap the bar tape to fix the hoods at a comfortable angle too.
Also remeasure your seat tube, from the photo that doesn't look like a 58 tall seat tube?
Last edited by lazerzxr; 04-30-12 at 10:14 PM.
04-30-12, 11:02 PM
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You guys are awesome! So much good advice here. I'm glad to hear that the frame is probably right and it's the adjustments I need to work on.
I actually thought about the aero post not allowing me to come down more, and therefore making it feel like I needed to bring my saddle forward to get my knees comfortable. I didn't like the aero post anyway, so I have a new Nashbar carbon zero setback post on the way that should be here tomorrow.
For tomorrow's ride I'll stick the new post on, lower it a bit, and drop a plumb line to get the right setback. Then I'll push the bars down to flatten out the drops. I knew there was a reason I hated riding in the drops...
If things are starting to feel right, I'm just going to put some miles on, focusing on keeping my back flat and appreciating the new position. And I've got a 100mm stem laying around that I could pop on there to try out. I never thought I'd want more stretch, but it sounds like after I get used to being lower, I might want to get longer.
You guys called it: I've been mountain biking for 10 years and just started on road bikes. I want efficiency and long rides, and I'm willing to spend the time to learn how to get it right. Thanks so much again! I'll post new pics and thoughts when I get everything changed up.
I actually thought about the aero post not allowing me to come down more, and therefore making it feel like I needed to bring my saddle forward to get my knees comfortable. I didn't like the aero post anyway, so I have a new Nashbar carbon zero setback post on the way that should be here tomorrow.
For tomorrow's ride I'll stick the new post on, lower it a bit, and drop a plumb line to get the right setback. Then I'll push the bars down to flatten out the drops. I knew there was a reason I hated riding in the drops...
If things are starting to feel right, I'm just going to put some miles on, focusing on keeping my back flat and appreciating the new position. And I've got a 100mm stem laying around that I could pop on there to try out. I never thought I'd want more stretch, but it sounds like after I get used to being lower, I might want to get longer.
You guys called it: I've been mountain biking for 10 years and just started on road bikes. I want efficiency and long rides, and I'm willing to spend the time to learn how to get it right. Thanks so much again! I'll post new pics and thoughts when I get everything changed up.
rotate the bars so the hoods are level.
05-01-12, 12:01 AM
#31
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You really don't look bad on it. If after rotating the handlebar forward you find you're putting too much pressure on the hands, slide the saddle back a little. Getting the weight off your hands lets your ride with more extension, but if you still feel overextended try something just a little shorter.
BTW, lazerzxr, that's a compact frame so the size is virtualized. If you drew a horizontal from some point near the top of the head tube to the seat post, the span of that intersection to the bottom bracket would be around 58 cm. With a 58.5 cm virtual top tube, the large TCR would be somewhat on the large end of a 58. Sort of like a Tarmac.
Last edited by oldbobcat; 05-01-12 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Just saw the photo
05-01-12, 07:20 AM
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Rex, the flat back is a thing of style. not everybody can do it or have it.
Two guys, two different styles... lemond had the flat back, armstrong did not. The king of the classics... sean kelly did not have flat back... Cavendish... he doesnt have it either. You can teach yourself to ride and change style but is a thing of time. Concentrate in the initial fit 1st... the numbers i gave you are kind'a close to what u might need, but you have to do the mods accordingly to how you feel and discomfort. If you can't figure it out something just ask.
Things to consider, pain in the back or in the front of the body is (generally) because the weight is not balanced over the bike. So pretty much is thing of figure it out what to mod to shift weight to the other side and balance the weight... sometimes is the saddle tilt, sometimes is just lower the stem or even a longer one, it will depends but always you need a starting point and this is when the shops fails big time IMO.
Post pictures when you get the new seatpost in.
Two guys, two different styles... lemond had the flat back, armstrong did not. The king of the classics... sean kelly did not have flat back... Cavendish... he doesnt have it either. You can teach yourself to ride and change style but is a thing of time. Concentrate in the initial fit 1st... the numbers i gave you are kind'a close to what u might need, but you have to do the mods accordingly to how you feel and discomfort. If you can't figure it out something just ask.
Things to consider, pain in the back or in the front of the body is (generally) because the weight is not balanced over the bike. So pretty much is thing of figure it out what to mod to shift weight to the other side and balance the weight... sometimes is the saddle tilt, sometimes is just lower the stem or even a longer one, it will depends but always you need a starting point and this is when the shops fails big time IMO.
Post pictures when you get the new seatpost in.
Last edited by ultraman6970; 05-01-12 at 09:07 AM.
05-01-12, 08:45 AM
#33
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More legs than torso??? short arms??? Interesting fit.
My comment about raising the saddle and moving it back. If you move the saddle back you never (unless the fit is wrong) change the saddle height up, in a matter of fact you have to go down or the reach will change.
This is a comment maybe for a new thread but several times fitters have to deal with the client to be fitted in a super expensive bike that is the wrong size. Since the client (or the lbs that sold them the bike) can't figure it out why nothing feels right after years or months using the bike they decided to go to the fitter. The issue in these cases is that the fitter has to work with the wrong bike instead of telling the guy straight forward that they picked or sold him/her the wrong size to start with. Maybe is cheaper to deal with the problem that just get the client pissed off because they have to spend 5000 bucks in a new bike or frame and walk out the door because the client thinks the store wants to milk them. Remember a guy I met years a go telling me his horror story when he went to be fitted... yes he had the wrong frame size. For the record i'm not a touring style fit lover neither love small or super big fit frames.
It's is a thing of see some fittings, specially with riders that arent that amorphous, frog legged riders, 5 feet torso and t-rex arms riders is understandable have wacky stuff in their bikes, but sure you guys have seen these guys that went to the fitter, have regular normal proportional size body, and are using a 7 feet pole as seatpost, matched with a 5 cm stem that is slammed to the headset... and riding a frame like 2 sizes too small and then you hear... "yeah! the fitter did an awesome job, I feel great!!...this is his number... you have to go and see him...!"
Fitter will do their best to fit the guy in the bike given the frame the rider takes to the session, that doesnt mean the client has the right frame to work with, IMO the fit will work right as long as the fitter has the right stuff to work with, and lets face it... many will fit anybody in anything even if its a 3 y/o kid tricycle and wont mention anything about being wrong with the bikes.
In your case I would say don't get a 56. The drop from the saddle to bars is going to be more. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try to raise your seatpost a bit and move your seat back. Take up Yoga if you have to.
As a 6'1'' male this is what I have to do to fit on a 56. Notice the drop...
[IMG][/IMG]
My comment about raising the saddle and moving it back. If you move the saddle back you never (unless the fit is wrong) change the saddle height up, in a matter of fact you have to go down or the reach will change.
This is a comment maybe for a new thread but several times fitters have to deal with the client to be fitted in a super expensive bike that is the wrong size. Since the client (or the lbs that sold them the bike) can't figure it out why nothing feels right after years or months using the bike they decided to go to the fitter. The issue in these cases is that the fitter has to work with the wrong bike instead of telling the guy straight forward that they picked or sold him/her the wrong size to start with. Maybe is cheaper to deal with the problem that just get the client pissed off because they have to spend 5000 bucks in a new bike or frame and walk out the door because the client thinks the store wants to milk them. Remember a guy I met years a go telling me his horror story when he went to be fitted... yes he had the wrong frame size. For the record i'm not a touring style fit lover neither love small or super big fit frames.
It's is a thing of see some fittings, specially with riders that arent that amorphous, frog legged riders, 5 feet torso and t-rex arms riders is understandable have wacky stuff in their bikes, but sure you guys have seen these guys that went to the fitter, have regular normal proportional size body, and are using a 7 feet pole as seatpost, matched with a 5 cm stem that is slammed to the headset... and riding a frame like 2 sizes too small and then you hear... "yeah! the fitter did an awesome job, I feel great!!...this is his number... you have to go and see him...!"
Fitter will do their best to fit the guy in the bike given the frame the rider takes to the session, that doesnt mean the client has the right frame to work with, IMO the fit will work right as long as the fitter has the right stuff to work with, and lets face it... many will fit anybody in anything even if its a 3 y/o kid tricycle and wont mention anything about being wrong with the bikes.
In your case I would say don't get a 56. The drop from the saddle to bars is going to be more. I know it sounds counter intuitive but try to raise your seatpost a bit and move your seat back. Take up Yoga if you have to.
As a 6'1'' male this is what I have to do to fit on a 56. Notice the drop...
[IMG]
[/IMG]
05-01-12, 09:44 AM
#35
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Yeah, I can't imagine this post has THAT much impact on aerodynamics, and I'm no racer (not yet at least!) so the limited fitting possibilities (there's only about 3" of available 26.2 post) and awkward look aren't enough to make me keep it.
Just to clarify, I misspoke about the seat tube of this frame. According to Giant, the compact Large is comparable to a traditional 58-60cm frame, but the actual seat tube is 55.5cm. I assume todayilearned is speaking of compact sizing as well, meaning his 56 is probably closer to a traditional 58 or 59. Here's the chart I just found from Giant's website:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TH]CONVENTIONAL FRAME SIZING (CM)[/TH]
[TH]RIDER HEIGHT[/TH]
[TH]COMPACT ROAD FRAME SIZE[/TH]
[TH="class: last"]SEATTUBE / TOPTUBE LENGTH (CM)[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]49-51[/TD]
[TD]5'2" - 5'4"[/TD]
[TD]XS[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]42/52[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]51-54[/TD]
[TD]5'4" - 5'7"[/TD]
[TD]S[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]44/53.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]55-57[/TD]
[TD]5'7" - 5'10"[/TD]
[TD]M[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]50/55.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]57-59[/TD]
[TD]5'10" - 6'0"[/TD]
[TD]M/L[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]53.5/57[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]58-60[/TD]
[TD]6'0" - 6'3"[/TD]
[TD]L[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]55.5/58.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]61-63[/TD]
[TD]6'3" - 6'6"[/TD]
[TD]XL[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]58.5/61[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I appreciate the info about back positioning, ultraman. I'll think about this when I'm out tonight. Maybe try a couple of different things. I never thought much about how I positioned my weight on the bike, but I could see how this would make a big difference.
Just to clarify, I misspoke about the seat tube of this frame. According to Giant, the compact Large is comparable to a traditional 58-60cm frame, but the actual seat tube is 55.5cm. I assume todayilearned is speaking of compact sizing as well, meaning his 56 is probably closer to a traditional 58 or 59. Here's the chart I just found from Giant's website:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TH]CONVENTIONAL FRAME SIZING (CM)[/TH]
[TH]RIDER HEIGHT[/TH]
[TH]COMPACT ROAD FRAME SIZE[/TH]
[TH="class: last"]SEATTUBE / TOPTUBE LENGTH (CM)[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]49-51[/TD]
[TD]5'2" - 5'4"[/TD]
[TD]XS[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]42/52[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]51-54[/TD]
[TD]5'4" - 5'7"[/TD]
[TD]S[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]44/53.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]55-57[/TD]
[TD]5'7" - 5'10"[/TD]
[TD]M[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]50/55.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]57-59[/TD]
[TD]5'10" - 6'0"[/TD]
[TD]M/L[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]53.5/57[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]58-60[/TD]
[TD]6'0" - 6'3"[/TD]
[TD]L[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]55.5/58.5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]61-63[/TD]
[TD]6'3" - 6'6"[/TD]
[TD]XL[/TD]
[TD="class: last"]58.5/61[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I appreciate the info about back positioning, ultraman. I'll think about this when I'm out tonight. Maybe try a couple of different things. I never thought much about how I positioned my weight on the bike, but I could see how this would make a big difference.
05-01-12, 10:01 AM
#36
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Rex,
There is fair amount of technique to riding a road bike as you are learning. Posture is big for example. We are the same size. A 58...what I ride is good size for you as it is for me. But fit is nuanced really. We are not all the same. You may never prefer to ride in a conventional road bike position. So a higher and closer in handlebar may always be your preference. Best tip is...as discussed...push your seat back. Strive for about 80mm of setback...saddle tip...drop a plumbob to BB center. Level the seat. Don't change the stem yet. Your back angle will increase but you will be more comfortable...because your weight will be farther back on the bike. One uses the pedals as a platform to control one's center of gravity. So the more you are behind the pedals the less weight will be on the handlebar even though you are leaning forward more. I hope that makes sense.
Enjoy the journey. A typical guy our size will ride a 58cm bike like you have with a 100-130mm stem depending on how racey the fit aka how flexibile the rider is.
There is fair amount of technique to riding a road bike as you are learning. Posture is big for example. We are the same size. A 58...what I ride is good size for you as it is for me. But fit is nuanced really. We are not all the same. You may never prefer to ride in a conventional road bike position. So a higher and closer in handlebar may always be your preference. Best tip is...as discussed...push your seat back. Strive for about 80mm of setback...saddle tip...drop a plumbob to BB center. Level the seat. Don't change the stem yet. Your back angle will increase but you will be more comfortable...because your weight will be farther back on the bike. One uses the pedals as a platform to control one's center of gravity. So the more you are behind the pedals the less weight will be on the handlebar even though you are leaning forward more. I hope that makes sense.
Enjoy the journey. A typical guy our size will ride a 58cm bike like you have with a 100-130mm stem depending on how racey the fit aka how flexibile the rider is.
05-01-12, 10:24 AM
#37
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The online fit calculators are not as god as the fitting done by the professional fitter. First of all with limited measuring tools you can make some small mistakes when taking your measures. Not only inseam, but also lengh of the arms and torso. Secondly, the calculators don't take into account the level of your body' flexibility. The results obtained based on that could be just an initial picture of what it should be.
Last year I measured myself and put the results into competitive cyclist calculator and as the result, got the following sugestions:
TTE - 52.6-53.0 cm
Steam - 9.1-9.7 for Eddy fit
I have builed a bike based on Tricross Pro frame in size of 49cm (515mm TTE) and 90 mm steam. As I could still see the front hub in front of me, I have switched to 100 mm steam. i have ridden the bike for a year doing around 6000 km when I decided to make a coplete BG Fit. It was more or less to see, how good was my approach. After 5 hrs with the fitter we ended up with the following changes:
HigHering the saddle by about 7mm
Positioning the saddle in the neutral position to get the knee paralell to the end of the crank arm.
After playing with the adjustable saddle, we changed the 100mm with -6 degree into the 75mm and +14 degrees.
we also played a bit with cleat positionning.
After that I don't feel as stretch as I used to be and have no problems with ridding in the drops (I couldn't do that for more than a minute before). Of course with the shorter steam, I can see the whole front hub, but the rest is better than before. I hope my flexibility will improve over time, so I will have a space to play with the steam lengh and angle.
Last year I measured myself and put the results into competitive cyclist calculator and as the result, got the following sugestions:
TTE - 52.6-53.0 cm
Steam - 9.1-9.7 for Eddy fit
I have builed a bike based on Tricross Pro frame in size of 49cm (515mm TTE) and 90 mm steam. As I could still see the front hub in front of me, I have switched to 100 mm steam. i have ridden the bike for a year doing around 6000 km when I decided to make a coplete BG Fit. It was more or less to see, how good was my approach. After 5 hrs with the fitter we ended up with the following changes:
HigHering the saddle by about 7mm
Positioning the saddle in the neutral position to get the knee paralell to the end of the crank arm.
After playing with the adjustable saddle, we changed the 100mm with -6 degree into the 75mm and +14 degrees.
we also played a bit with cleat positionning.
After that I don't feel as stretch as I used to be and have no problems with ridding in the drops (I couldn't do that for more than a minute before). Of course with the shorter steam, I can see the whole front hub, but the rest is better than before. I hope my flexibility will improve over time, so I will have a space to play with the steam lengh and angle.
05-02-12, 04:49 AM
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Hmmm.... the competitive cyclist tables are always off... anybody has noticed that?
I should note that some aspects of my fit have changed over the years as I got fitter and more flexible. Specifically, I've pulled out all the headset spacers (less one) and could probably go fully slammed now.
DG
05-02-12, 04:55 AM
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I had the other experience. I ordered my S1 while I was still in county (I wanted to pick it up the first day I got back) and used the CC online calculator. I'm 6'1" with short-ish legs (30' jeans inseam) and it put me on a 56cm. Fitter put me an a 90mm stem and the fit is perfect.
I should note that some aspects of my fit have changed over the years as I got fitter and more flexible. Specifically, I've pulled out all the headset spacers (less one) and could probably go fully slammed now.
DG
I should note that some aspects of my fit have changed over the years as I got fitter and more flexible. Specifically, I've pulled out all the headset spacers (less one) and could probably go fully slammed now.
DG
05-02-12, 05:07 AM
#42
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Your bike is not too big. The problem with fit calculators is that people don't measure themselves right.
When I first got my road bike, I thought it was too big. My top tube clearance is like half an inch, too. My flexibility increased a lot over time. Now I think I need a longer stem, because I have long arms.
When I first got my road bike, I thought it was too big. My top tube clearance is like half an inch, too. My flexibility increased a lot over time. Now I think I need a longer stem, because I have long arms.
05-02-12, 05:10 AM
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take the OP who comes off a mtb.
DG
05-02-12, 05:37 AM
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OP, I would flip the stem and rotate the bar first to get the right hand position. The way it's currently set up, there is no way you can ride the drops without hurting your wrists.
Another thing you may want to look into, after you dial in the saddle height and fore-aft position (THE most important aspect of bike fitting) is to check the crank arm length. You have a few mms to play there also.
I alway think of bike fitting as finding the right length for each side of a triangle, where the end points are the saddle, hoods, and bottom bracket. Changing the length and/or angle of one side typically will necessitate the changes in other sides/angles also.
The end result should be personal, depending on what position, hoods or drops, you ride the post, you should be well balanced on the bike without excessive pressure on you hands, knees and lower back. It's a series of trial and error.
FWIW, from the pic, the frame looks fine.
Another thing you may want to look into, after you dial in the saddle height and fore-aft position (THE most important aspect of bike fitting) is to check the crank arm length. You have a few mms to play there also.
I alway think of bike fitting as finding the right length for each side of a triangle, where the end points are the saddle, hoods, and bottom bracket. Changing the length and/or angle of one side typically will necessitate the changes in other sides/angles also.
The end result should be personal, depending on what position, hoods or drops, you ride the post, you should be well balanced on the bike without excessive pressure on you hands, knees and lower back. It's a series of trial and error.
FWIW, from the pic, the frame looks fine.
05-02-12, 06:28 AM
#45
Fitter of road/ironman
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To OP (Rex),
I am a fitter at a LBS in Toronto. not having seen your pedal stroke and everything else that would normally go with the fit, I would still confidently say that the bike is your size. Though you should have the bike professionally fitted to you. Your extg position looks too choked up, which is something that we see often when mountain bikers go to road bikes, road bikes generally sit long and low, mtb bikes sit short and high. I would turn the stem down, move down by about 1cm on the steerer and then address any discomfort on the nose of the saddle. Handlebar currently is way high, rotate bars 5-8 degs. TCR is the race version of Giant's road bike line and you need to realize the fit is a different than mountain bikes, recreational road bikes.
Best of luck to you. Please let us know how it goes by taking a picture.
I am a fitter at a LBS in Toronto. not having seen your pedal stroke and everything else that would normally go with the fit, I would still confidently say that the bike is your size. Though you should have the bike professionally fitted to you. Your extg position looks too choked up, which is something that we see often when mountain bikers go to road bikes, road bikes generally sit long and low, mtb bikes sit short and high. I would turn the stem down, move down by about 1cm on the steerer and then address any discomfort on the nose of the saddle. Handlebar currently is way high, rotate bars 5-8 degs. TCR is the race version of Giant's road bike line and you need to realize the fit is a different than mountain bikes, recreational road bikes.
Best of luck to you. Please let us know how it goes by taking a picture.
05-02-12, 07:00 AM
#46
Senior Member
Since you have a 60mm stem in your head, experiment. Buy a cheap 60mm stem from Nashbar and ride it a week. Don't put it on and only ride it once(unless the steering is a safety issue). Give it a few days to adjust. Depending on your weight distribution, a 60mm stem may be o.k.
The TCR is definitely a more race oriented position and not the best for us long legs/short torso people. I have always wanted a Cannondale CAAD9/10 but it would be a waste of money because I could never make my body fit the geometry.
I have long legs/short torso, ride a 62cm and run a 90mm stem. No issues what so ever. I was professionally fitted and my proportions are out of whack. They suggested a 57mm top tube but a bike with a 57mm top tube has a huge saddle to handlbar drop. My 62cm has a 59.5 top tube but also has a slack head tube angle.
Salsa Cycles sell 60mm stems. If it was a safety issue, I don't think they would sell them.
The TCR is definitely a more race oriented position and not the best for us long legs/short torso people. I have always wanted a Cannondale CAAD9/10 but it would be a waste of money because I could never make my body fit the geometry.
I have long legs/short torso, ride a 62cm and run a 90mm stem. No issues what so ever. I was professionally fitted and my proportions are out of whack. They suggested a 57mm top tube but a bike with a 57mm top tube has a huge saddle to handlbar drop. My 62cm has a 59.5 top tube but also has a slack head tube angle.
Salsa Cycles sell 60mm stems. If it was a safety issue, I don't think they would sell them.
05-02-12, 07:17 AM
#47
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Thanks for more great advice, guys.
As soon as I got home last night, I made some adjustments. Didn't get the new seat post yet (I see it won't be here until Friday), so I didn't take any pictures.
1. I moved my saddle back quite a bit to put the tip at 80mm behind the bottom bracket.
2. I put a level on the saddle and found it was previously tilted backward quite a bit. I leveled it out.
3. I tilted the handlebars down to put the end of the drops parallel with the ground (while watching in horror my precious hoods fade into the distance away from me)
4. Finally, and most importantly I think, I told myself "This frame fits you. Be confident in that. You may feel stretched for a bit, but that's ok. It's normal. Focus on the new posture required, and we'll fine tune things as we go.) I wasn't able to do that before your guys' help!
Took it out and immediately felt better (see #4 above). And after 25 miles, #1-3 made everything feel better as the miles increased. It's amazing how just tilting the bars down helped things. The hoods were further away so I stretched more, but it was still more comfortable. And for the first time ever, I felt ok in the drops! And it's amazing the difference in hand positions now. There is a major difference in feel between riding on the top, the hoods, and the drops, and they all feel good!
So much of a positive difference. Again, I think it was a combination of physical change, but also mindset change. I just needed to know that stretching out more was right, and that the frame was the right one to begin with. Then I could confidently work on the other stuff.
I liked the bike a lot before, that's why I bought it (plus it was cheeeeeeap!), but now I love it! So effortless, and the road feel seems just right. Not punishing, but still connected. I feel like I'm cheating being able to ride 25 miles without working very hard. Makes me want to ride 50. I guess a good bike should do that.
I'll post pictures of me on the new setup tonight and see if I can get anymore tips from you guys. Might try flipping the stem tonight and see if I can fit a ride in. I might still take it in for a fit and get to know my Giant dealer. I saved so much money on the bike that I can pay for a fit and still feel like I got a great deal.
As soon as I got home last night, I made some adjustments. Didn't get the new seat post yet (I see it won't be here until Friday), so I didn't take any pictures.
1. I moved my saddle back quite a bit to put the tip at 80mm behind the bottom bracket.
2. I put a level on the saddle and found it was previously tilted backward quite a bit. I leveled it out.
3. I tilted the handlebars down to put the end of the drops parallel with the ground (while watching in horror my precious hoods fade into the distance away from me)
4. Finally, and most importantly I think, I told myself "This frame fits you. Be confident in that. You may feel stretched for a bit, but that's ok. It's normal. Focus on the new posture required, and we'll fine tune things as we go.) I wasn't able to do that before your guys' help!
Took it out and immediately felt better (see #4 above). And after 25 miles, #1-3 made everything feel better as the miles increased. It's amazing how just tilting the bars down helped things. The hoods were further away so I stretched more, but it was still more comfortable. And for the first time ever, I felt ok in the drops! And it's amazing the difference in hand positions now. There is a major difference in feel between riding on the top, the hoods, and the drops, and they all feel good!
So much of a positive difference. Again, I think it was a combination of physical change, but also mindset change. I just needed to know that stretching out more was right, and that the frame was the right one to begin with. Then I could confidently work on the other stuff.
I liked the bike a lot before, that's why I bought it (plus it was cheeeeeeap!), but now I love it! So effortless, and the road feel seems just right. Not punishing, but still connected. I feel like I'm cheating being able to ride 25 miles without working very hard. Makes me want to ride 50. I guess a good bike should do that.
I'll post pictures of me on the new setup tonight and see if I can get anymore tips from you guys. Might try flipping the stem tonight and see if I can fit a ride in. I might still take it in for a fit and get to know my Giant dealer. I saved so much money on the bike that I can pay for a fit and still feel like I got a great deal.
05-02-12, 08:05 AM
#48
Arrogant Roadie Punk
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so are you trying to say that something positive and productive actually came out of bike forums? seems like a hoax
05-02-12, 12:41 PM
#50
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Now you have to tell us how cheeeeeeap.