Soften The Ride On A Trek 1.1 Alpha?
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Soften The Ride On A Trek 1.1 Alpha?
I have an aluminum frame Trek 1.1, and it's a harsh ride. Tire clearance is such that a 28mm Gatorskin is about the fattest tire I can use.
Is a fork swap in order? Give it up and buy a steel bike?
Is a fork swap in order? Give it up and buy a steel bike?
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That steel frames necessarily ride softer than alu is a myth - it's tube profile and geometry that count. Many modern racers are designed are like the crit bikes of a few years ago and so tend to be harsh rides. This may help with geometry issues, especially the part on the French Fit:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/ht...ad_riding.html
and this is a good guide to bike metallurgy:
https://www.63xc.com/scotn/metal.htm
Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you could always consider a cyclocross bike if you're want to fit wider tyres. Get it built up with mini vees instead of cantilevers if you can (read the canti faq on the cross forum if you go this route.)
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/ht...ad_riding.html
and this is a good guide to bike metallurgy:
https://www.63xc.com/scotn/metal.htm
Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you could always consider a cyclocross bike if you're want to fit wider tyres. Get it built up with mini vees instead of cantilevers if you can (read the canti faq on the cross forum if you go this route.)
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I would recommend investing in a new bike, but here's a few ways to give it a "soft-tail" effect:
-Ritchey's vector wing design to the saddles (saddle rails don't go directly to your butt). Saddles that feel nicer on shape matter more though.
-Carbon seatpost (not just carbon wrapped).
-Tire size isn't the definition of how smooth they'll be. Gatorskins are rather smooth though. Perhaps a different one?
I wouldn't get a new fork for the bike, the cost would be better put towards a new bike that suits you better.
-Ritchey's vector wing design to the saddles (saddle rails don't go directly to your butt). Saddles that feel nicer on shape matter more though.
-Carbon seatpost (not just carbon wrapped).
-Tire size isn't the definition of how smooth they'll be. Gatorskins are rather smooth though. Perhaps a different one?
I wouldn't get a new fork for the bike, the cost would be better put towards a new bike that suits you better.
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That steel frames necessarily ride softer than alu is a myth - it's tube profile and geometry that count. Many modern racers are designed are like the crit bikes of a few years ago and so tend to be harsh rides. This may help with geometry issues, especially the part on the French Fit:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/ht...ad_riding.html
and this is a good guide to bike metallurgy:
https://www.63xc.com/scotn/metal.htm
Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you could always consider a cyclocross bike if you're want to fit wider tyres. Get it built up with mini vees instead of cantilevers if you can (read the canti faq on the cross forum if you go this route.)
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/ht...ad_riding.html
and this is a good guide to bike metallurgy:
https://www.63xc.com/scotn/metal.htm
Depending on the type of riding you want to do, you could always consider a cyclocross bike if you're want to fit wider tyres. Get it built up with mini vees instead of cantilevers if you can (read the canti faq on the cross forum if you go this route.)
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That seems a bit much for 28mm tires. Lower them to 100 psi and see how that feels. You can probably go even lower than that if you wanted.
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Yeah, that pressure sounds way high for 28mm tires.
My brother in law is 265 and runs a 28mm tires at 90psi/100psi front/rear. He's never pinch flatted.
IMO, the drop in tire pressure will be the most effective (and cheapest!) solution.
Bob
My brother in law is 265 and runs a 28mm tires at 90psi/100psi front/rear. He's never pinch flatted.
IMO, the drop in tire pressure will be the most effective (and cheapest!) solution.
Bob
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