Dave Schiff

As most of you read my threads the underline theme is about heavy riders. I'm not fat just big (250-260lbs riding weight).

From what I'm reading, I think, metal alloy wheel would probably be better for big guys like me. Is this true and I would like to hear both sides of the discussion. This is the last big guy thread I'll ever do.

Any good suggestions on what wheel sets have worked well for you big guys would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

simonaway427

If you've read about it already, presumably on this forum, why do you need us to repeat what has already been said?

Why don't you tell us why you think alloy wheels are better?

Homebrew01

Try the Clydesdale forum

pgjackson

What I would like to know is why should I pay $1000 for a set of CF wheels that weigh 1800g, when I can get a set of AL wheels for $400 at 1450g?

Seattle Forrest

OP, get the wheels you want.

I paid $800 for a set of CF wheels that tip the scales at 1,250 grams.

Jed19

At that weight, if I were you (which I am not), I'll consult with a good experienced local wheelbuilder who can recommend an appropriate custom build. Messing around with bad or inappropriate wheelset is not fun. Think miserable with a capital M.

Commodus

I think you should get wheels suited to your purpose. There are no carbon wheels currently made that are suited to recreational riders weighing 250+.

That certainly doesn't mean you can't get them, or that they will break under you. Maybe just having them will make you want to ride your bike more...that's certainly a benefit.

But strong wheels will certainly perform better for you. Strong wheels are made of good rims laced to good hubs with sensible spoke counts.

Homebrew01

Who says you should spend $1000 for any kind of wheels ? What type of riding are you doing ?
I think my $500 50mm carbon tubulars are just about as good as others costing a lot more.

canam73

Stop me if you've heard this before, but in most situations aero>weight.

Besides, a set of 88mm rims would give more room for faux italian labeling.

Seattle Forrest

Since the OP weighs 260 lbs, CF clinchers might not be the best choice, if he rides in a hilly place. People have trouble with brakes overheating, and ever CF brake track I've seen has been black, which is going to absorb sunlight.

I don't think that's true. Madfibers have no rider weight limit, and they claim they've been tested to support 700 pounds per wheel. (I'm not saying buy a set of MFs, they're hideously expensive, and use a very unique design which would mean a longer weight if you ever managed to bust a spoke.)

canyoneagle

Clydesdale forum will be your best bet for getting some thoughts on this.
I'm 195-200, but my loaded commuter hits 230-240 with me, racks, fenders and panniers (bare bike weight not included)- I build my own wheels, and typically stick with 36 spoke (2.0/1.8), 3 cross, with a nice box section rim with eyelets, and brass nipples. I also use spoke washers if there is any play whatsoever between the spokes and the flange holes. My commuter wheels have varied from supremely robust (Salsa Gordo 35mm 29er rim) to svelte (Ambrosio Excellight SSC racing clinchers), and I've never had a wheel go out of true. YMMV.

I have no experience with carbon at all, but I know that there are some nice, strong rims out there - I'd avoid "wheel systems" utilizing proprietary spoking with fewer than 32 spokes.

merlinextraligh

you're right at the weight limit of the current Zipp 404 Firecrest and Zipp 808 Firecrest. The old Zipp 404 and 808 Clydesdales (later called Max) had a max weight of 275lbs.

So you definitely can use a CF wheel. However, I think you can expect to have a shorter useful life, and more broken spokes than going with a more robust 36 spoke handbuilt wheel with a rim such as a Velocity Deep V, or comparable.

FWIW, we use a set of custom drilled 808 rims on our tandem with a team weight of 350lbs.

pgjackson

I'm not looking for wheels. I am very happy with my $350 Vuelta Corsa Superlights at 1465g. A friend of mine just got a set of Zipps 303s for about $2000 at 1500g. The Easton EC90 is $2000 at 1670g. Zipp 808s are 1760g and about $3000. Just wondering what a CF wheel does better than an AL wheel.

merlinextraligh

Roll through the wind. All those deepsectioned wheels are going to be measurably faster on anything short of a pure hill climb.

Aerodynamics trumps weight when it comes to wheels in the vast majority of cases.

jfmckenna

I think the spoke count is more important. Least from my experience anyway. Get some carbon wheels specifically made for clyde's or at least for cyclocross.

pgjackson

That is a good answer. My next question is when does that aero effect become something tangible? I ask because my normal ride is about 20-30 miles with about 1000-2000ft of climbing. A couple of routes have over 4000ft of climbing. Would heavier CF wheels make any difference in an area that his very hilly and average speeds are less than 20mph and long flats are virtually nonexistant?

Homebrew01

I think on an "average" 30 mile ride, you will be something like 20-30 seconds faster compared to non-aero wheels. So no, it's not tangible in that you won't feel the increase, but it may get you over the finish line of a race or TT a bit sooner. On hilly rides, I think the extra weight cancels out the aero benefit. There are so many variables, that there is no "right" answer for everybody. I use 50mm carbon tubulars for racing flat-ish races. I like the way tubulars feel, but I can't tell if I'm any faster, I just assume I am a tiny bit based on various published wind tunnel tests. For non racing, any decent aluminum clincher is fine with me.

merlinextraligh

And that's the difference between the Zipp clydesdale (max) wheels, and the regular ones; same rims but drilled for more spokes.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like Zipp offers the option of 24/28 spoked wheels now (as oppossed to the 20/24 regular zipps) , although you may be able to get them to drill rims for you with holes for the extra spokes

mkadam68

Someone mentioned the OP should seek advice in the Clyde section. My initial thought was no, there's too much FUD and misinformation there (if you're a clyde, you better ride steel frames with 36+ spoke wheels or else, and god forbid you should even mention going fast 'cause us clydes can't do that so why try?!).

But, I'm seeing a bunch of FUD & misinformation here too.

TO the OP: what ends up being "better" is entirely up to you. Aerodynamics, reliability, weight, bling factor.

I am north of 250-lbs. I have both deep-carbon (tubular) & aluminum-box (clincher) rims. I ride both. The carbon 50mm's are in a 28/32 spoke pattern and the 88mm's are 24/28 spokes. (If I could afford some Zipp Firecrest or MadFiber wheels, I would.)

I prefer the 50mm carbon. These are generic, no-name eBay wheels. I have two sets (88mm & 50mm). Both sets have well over 1,000 miles on them. Both have never needed to be trued after their initial build. Each set cost about $650, including first tires (Vittoria Corsa EVO-CX II). I definitely notice the lower weight, or at least the rotational weight. The tubular tires maintain their shape (round) better under me and I can inflate to higher psi if I wish. Last, I like the looks of them. And since they're generic, I'm even thinking of getting my own made-up logo/design just to have fun with 'em.

My aluminum wheels cost about $300 for a set (Open Pro w/Ultegra hubs on Michelin Pro3Race tires). They need an occasional truing. They are actually a slightly more comfortable ride as there is more give with the 32-spokes.

Jed19

Absolutely true. And do not forget the fun factor. I have seven wheelsets that ranges from Open Pros with Dura-Ace hubs to CP33s with Ultegra and two sets of Mavic Ksyriums, but my very favorite wheels to ride by far are the heaviest I own, Shimano C50 7850 Clinchers. Just a joy to ride, except when climbing the steepest hills. That wheelset is very aerodynamic, rolls forever with minimum input at about 22mph, and just a blast to ride.

So, I say do not discount the fun factor. We are not pros, and cycling is a hobby, but if you can afford it, deep section wheelsets (my experience is limited to 50mm) are a blast to ride.

Dave Schiff

All great comments. I think what’s best for me would be a good pair of alloy wheels to go with my Argon Gallium frame and better components (DA or Super Record) I'll gain nothing from carbon wheels so with the extra money I save I'll get a really good pair of shoes and upgrade my pedal.

I'm not a fat guy just big and wish the bike world would make it easier for us Clyde’s (as you call us) to see what will or will not work for us. Kind of like the calorie charts in restaurants. We can see weight limits when we purchase and don’t have to get multiple answers from people. This information is not easily achieved from the internet or the bike shops. I'm just saying!!!


The bike world is conspiring against us Clyde's, Just Kidding.

I just want to upgrade from my Cervelo S1 (full Ultegra)

Thanks, Dave

Homebrew01

Probably a good idea. Contact point upgrades are definitely noticeable all day long.

StanSeven

In the recent Velo test of aero wheels, they got 15-23 watts savings at 30 mph. Those are a little deeper than most (50 to 70) but that's a pretty good savings for doing nothing except ride with different wheels.

By the way, Psimet wheels were included and at $1,000 that's excellent value

canam73

So if I get the wheels I can ride at 30mph? F***ing awsome.

OldsCOOL

I've seen them for 249.00 recently.