View Poll Results: Which road bike should I get?
Bike A with Tiagra set
3
9.38%
Bike B with Shimano 105 set
29
90.63%
Voters: 32. You may not vote on this poll
Tiagra set or Shimano 105 set Road bike?
#1
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Tiagra set or Shimano 105 set Road bike?
NEW student biker with a few bucks in his pocket lol =D please help me choose one
(A)
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...6eb66dcad2.jpg
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...7e6a42a02c.jpg
K2 Frame 54
Tiagra Group set
STI
SHIMANO 2200
VICTORIA Tires 700C BY 23
with free pair of victoria tires
(B)
https://cdn2.sulitstatic.com/images/2...a9e8d1ea47.jpg
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...1021cae6bc.jpg
chrome moly Frame 54
Cervelo lightweight fork
shimano dura ace crank
shimano 105 set STI
Salsa handle bar
shimano wheelset 550 (16 spokes front and 20 spokes rear)
tires Duro Stinger
(A)
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...6eb66dcad2.jpg
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...7e6a42a02c.jpg
K2 Frame 54
Tiagra Group set
STI
SHIMANO 2200
VICTORIA Tires 700C BY 23
with free pair of victoria tires
(B)
https://cdn2.sulitstatic.com/images/2...a9e8d1ea47.jpg
https://cdn.sulitstatic.com/images/20...1021cae6bc.jpg
chrome moly Frame 54
Cervelo lightweight fork
shimano dura ace crank
shimano 105 set STI
Salsa handle bar
shimano wheelset 550 (16 spokes front and 20 spokes rear)
tires Duro Stinger
Last edited by pratzy; 08-12-12 at 03:08 AM.
#2
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You've just got to be kidding me....Which one?
...Like there's a real choice or something!
...Like there's a real choice or something!
#3
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#4
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If I were going to lay down 300.00 I would go for the second bike because Tiagra is not bad, but I like 105 a whole lot better. That said - if you are tooling around campus, or taking the odd longer trip both bikes should be more than adequate.
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I wore my Tiagra front derailleur out in a year. It deformed so much that it could no longer be adjusted to effectively shift, it would get stuck on the "retracted" pull for the top ring and even without the cable connected the spring could not return it to the small chainring.
Also, the chain stretched out and needed to be replaced two weeks ago.
The (lowend) FSA crankset is worn down to resemble a spinning saw blade. (I nicked my finger and sliced deep, it came close to being worse.)
The cassette is also worn... I'm staring at it and haven't quite justified buying a new one yet (got to buy school books for the school year for the kids, not bike parts right now.)
Why is this all wearing down? I ride more now than I did last year... all of last year combined.
If you are just starting riding, like I did last year, go for Tiagra stuff.... save money, especially if you don't know how much you'll ride.
If you ride 100 miles or less a week, I'd stay with Tiagra... it will last for years. (My wife's Sora equipped bike has been good for her since 2004, without seeing a need to upgrade components or wearing anything out)
If you ride 5-6 days a weeks, over 200 miles a week, upgrade to 105, os it can last longer than a single year.
Also, the chain stretched out and needed to be replaced two weeks ago.
The (lowend) FSA crankset is worn down to resemble a spinning saw blade. (I nicked my finger and sliced deep, it came close to being worse.)
The cassette is also worn... I'm staring at it and haven't quite justified buying a new one yet (got to buy school books for the school year for the kids, not bike parts right now.)
Why is this all wearing down? I ride more now than I did last year... all of last year combined.
If you are just starting riding, like I did last year, go for Tiagra stuff.... save money, especially if you don't know how much you'll ride.
If you ride 100 miles or less a week, I'd stay with Tiagra... it will last for years. (My wife's Sora equipped bike has been good for her since 2004, without seeing a need to upgrade components or wearing anything out)
If you ride 5-6 days a weeks, over 200 miles a week, upgrade to 105, os it can last longer than a single year.
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From your photos, I would warn you away from EITHER bike since I can see they're Frankenbikes cobbled together from parts of other bikes. Notably, I see 8sp shifters but probably 9sp or 10sp cassettes, meaning they'll never index properly. That's really expensive to correct. And that's just one of the "gotchas" you're likely to encounter here.
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please add a spot on your poll for neither bike. They are both garbage.
#9
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The one bike has a chromoly steel frame. Depending upon the cost of the bike, the frame alone could very well be worth what you're spending. If there is a bicycle co-op near your place of residence, you could very easily find the appropriate combination of shifters, casettes, and derailleurs for the proper indexing of your bike. Even if you have to pay for the extra components out of pocket, your finished product would be a great bicycle that would most likely render you service for a very long time. Of course, since we don't know the asking price or cost of the bike, it's absolutely impossible to determine whether or not this entire venture is a complete waste of time.
However, I would glady pay $100 for the bicycle with the chromoly frame. As long as the frame and most of the components are in fair to good condition, I'd purchase the bike and make the necessary adjustments and replacements to make her my own. I might also powdercoat it and rustproof it at the outset.
Looks like a fun project that won't be too time-consuming...
PS.
Do they have bicycle co-ops in the Philippines?
However, I would glady pay $100 for the bicycle with the chromoly frame. As long as the frame and most of the components are in fair to good condition, I'd purchase the bike and make the necessary adjustments and replacements to make her my own. I might also powdercoat it and rustproof it at the outset.
Looks like a fun project that won't be too time-consuming...
PS.
Do they have bicycle co-ops in the Philippines?
Last edited by SlimRider; 08-12-12 at 11:17 AM.
#10
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For what it's worth, unless that's an effective top tube measurement that second bike doesn't look to be anywhere close to a 54.
Looks more like a 48 or 50 to me.
Looks more like a 48 or 50 to me.
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I disagree with a party or two here. The one bike has a chromoly steel frame. Depending upon the cost of the bike, the frame alone could very well be worth what you're spending. If there is a bicycle co-op near your place of residence, you could very easily find the appropriate combination of shifters, casettes, and derailleurs for the proper indexing of your bike. Even if you have to pay for the extra components out of pocket, your finished product would be a great bicycle that would most likely render you service for a very long time. Of course, since we don't know the asking price or cost of the bike, it's absolutely impossible to determine whether or not this entire venture is a complete waste of time.
However, I would glady pay $100 for the bicycle with the chromoly frame. As long as the frame and most of the components are in fair to good condition, I'd purchase the bike and make the necessary adjustments and replacements to make her my own. I might also powdercoat it and rustproof it at the outset.
Looks like a fun project that won't be too time-consuming...
However, I would glady pay $100 for the bicycle with the chromoly frame. As long as the frame and most of the components are in fair to good condition, I'd purchase the bike and make the necessary adjustments and replacements to make her my own. I might also powdercoat it and rustproof it at the outset.
Looks like a fun project that won't be too time-consuming...
no way that steel frame is worth $300
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he said the bike costs are $300 --- https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...g-a-road-bike-)
no way that steel frame is worth $300
no way that steel frame is worth $300
Alright, my bad!...I missed that post!
Last edited by SlimRider; 08-12-12 at 11:14 AM.
#14
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From your photos, I would warn you away from EITHER bike since I can see they're Frankenbikes cobbled together from parts of other bikes. Notably, I see 8sp shifters but probably 9sp or 10sp cassettes, meaning they'll never index properly. That's really expensive to correct. And that's just one of the "gotchas" you're likely to encounter here.
sorry guys.. that's the only good bikes I can find in the philippines below $300.. its pretty expensive here.. dunno what to do =/
i got it from sulit.com.ph and biketradesph.com
$1 = 41 pesos
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$300 is not a lot for a road bike here either.....
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the owner told me that.. if i'll proceed with that one, what will i have to buy to fix it? i have zero idea with racer bikes.. I'm a marathon runner, so I think racers would be good for me for my sub-training.
sorry guys.. that's the only good bikes I can find in the philippines below $300.. its pretty expensive here.. dunno what to do =/
i got it from sulit.com.ph and biketradesph.com
$1 = 41 pesos
sorry guys.. that's the only good bikes I can find in the philippines below $300.. its pretty expensive here.. dunno what to do =/
i got it from sulit.com.ph and biketradesph.com
$1 = 41 pesos
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the owner told me that.. if i'll proceed with that one, what will i have to buy to fix it? i have zero idea with racer bikes.. I'm a marathon runner, so I think racers would be good for me for my sub-training.
sorry guys.. that's the only good bikes I can find in the philippines below $300.. its pretty expensive here.. dunno what to do =/
i got it from sulit.com.ph and biketradesph.com
$1 = 41 pesos
sorry guys.. that's the only good bikes I can find in the philippines below $300.. its pretty expensive here.. dunno what to do =/
i got it from sulit.com.ph and biketradesph.com
$1 = 41 pesos
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#19
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Fellas the OP did not state a price for either bike. I just cobbled together a price for a nice beater bike that I would tool around on campus @ $300. Personally, I would save centavos for something else vs. either bike.
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The question about which group should come up when you are comparing two identical frames. When you are comparing two different frames such as in your case the real question should be which frame. Then you pick the better frame that fits you the best. Groups are not as detrimental.
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The question about which group should come up when you are comparing two identical frames. When you are comparing two different frames such as in your case the real question should be which frame. Then you pick the better frame that fits you the best. Groups are not as detrimental.
You mean I should check the frames first, then the group?
so its like
A)Frame
B)group
C)
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