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Road tubeless. Whos doing it?

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Road tubeless. Whos doing it?

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Old 11-10-12, 07:18 AM
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I bought a set of Ksyrium SL's in June, and slapped a pair of Hutchinson Fusion 3's on them. I was hooked the first ride! The ride quality is great, eliminating harsh feedback. I'm 175 lbs, and run 85f and 90r. No more tubes for me.
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Old 11-10-12, 08:19 PM
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195 lbs with 90psi front, and 95 psi rear using Specialized turbo tubeless on Zonda wheels. Obvious advance in comfort and better road holding or at least it feels better giving me more confidence on curving downhills. Don't have a ton of miles yet, but no flats so far. Feels as if it rolls easier though some of it may be the Zonda wheels as well. I likely will migrate my other bikes over to tubeless. Seems like the way to go.
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Old 11-10-12, 08:33 PM
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I have not ridden them but I was chatting with a club-mate today who is.

He has a set of HED Ardennes wheels (great wheelset btw!) that initially he was running with tubes. For some reason he had been getting a lot of flats so he went tubeless. He is very pleased and is able to run lower PSI and has had no flats.

Personally, I think the hassle is not worth it unless you are really plagued by flats. I get about one flat every 2500 miles (which is like 3 times/year) so for me it's not worth it. Also the number of tires that are road tubeless are quite limited.

Not sure that helps much, but that's all I got.
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Old 11-10-12, 09:00 PM
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I did run tubeless and went back to tubes. The benefit of tubeless obviously is the ability to run lower pressures but at least here in N.E. Ohio I found that with our crappy roads the lower pressure did not allow any protection for the brake track of the rim. Sure you went get a pinch flat but I have collapsed the brake track on a Fulcrum Zero and I know I am not the only one.
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Old 11-10-12, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscTruckerMF
How much do you weigh? your before pressures are right where I'm at so I'd love to get down to 100/85 in my tires. never heard of those maxxis tires, just googled them, holy crap are they pricey! why are they so much more than the hutchinsons?
I weigh about 195 (6'4") At the LBS the Hutchinsons and the Maxxis were all about the same price, when I decided to do it, they only had a pair of the Maxxis in stock, so that is what I went with, I am thinking when these wear out I am going to try the Hutchinsons.
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Old 11-10-12, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscTruckerMF
I have heard this too. I've heard that the Caffe Latex sealant doesn't corrode and that Ammonia was the culprit. don't know how true that is or not tho.
The Caffe Latex also, in my experience, does not seal punctures. I had it originally, several failed punctures later I switched to the Stans. Since the Stans I have probably had about 15 punctures, of which 1 required me to put a tube in to get home, 2 others I milked it home at a lower pressure. The rest sealed themselves up in about 2 or 3 rotations of the wheel.

Last edited by noise boy; 11-10-12 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 11-10-12, 10:07 PM
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For the most part stans seems to be better for low pressure(50psi and below) tires. I have had it seal some significant XC 2.1 inch flats during races and it is good for aging rubber, which I think was the original intent but for higher pressure I would go with a higher viscosity sealant. If the pressure is low enough to allow brake track damage it was too low. I generally run similar pressure to the tube variety unless needed for conditions and the difference is noticeable. Only reason I am running tubes at the moment is my tires are old tube units with tread armor and the beads are too aged to seal. Joys of minimal budget...
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Old 11-11-12, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by noise boy
The Caffe Latex also, in my experience, does not seal punctures. I had it originally, several failed punctures later I switched to the Stans. Since the Stans I have probably had about 15 punctures, of which 1 required me to put a tube in to get home, 2 others I milked it home at a lower pressure. The rest sealed themselves up in about 2 or 3 rotations of the wheel.
funny, I just set up a set of wheels on my commuter using the caffee latex and it sealed the bead up well but thee are a couple of small cuts in the tires I used and it didn't seal them at all. I'll look to other sealants.
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Old 11-11-12, 05:49 PM
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For those who are having corrosion issues with sealant. I haven't noticed any on my wheels yet, but I use a product called Corrosion X on my motorcycle to prevent oxidation over the winter. I am going to pull my F3's and clean and dry the inside of the wheels, then spray a coating of that product to prevent corrosion from getting started. Worth a shot...
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Old 11-11-12, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rbrsddn
For those who are having corrosion issues with sealant. I haven't noticed any on my wheels yet, but I use a product called Corrosion X on my motorcycle to prevent oxidation over the winter. I am going to pull my F3's and clean and dry the inside of the wheels, then spray a coating of that product to prevent corrosion from getting started. Worth a shot...
Do you have shimano wheels? It's only needed for them since it's a problem with their finish (any moisture will do it not just stans). You are fine with all other rims.
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Old 11-11-12, 06:32 PM
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I did not know that. I've got Ksyriums. Cool!
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Old 11-11-12, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscTruckerMF
funny, I just set up a set of wheels on my commuter using the caffee latex and it sealed the bead up well but thee are a couple of small cuts in the tires I used and it didn't seal them at all. I'll look to other sealants.
The stans works great for me, the holes that it failed on were pretty epically sized, but for the average road cuts it does the deal. I use the Caffe Latex injector thing to put it into the tire after it's seated just make sure you have valve stems with removable cores, the stans will clog a standard presta valve. I have never had a problem getting the tires to seat, even with a hand pump, I usually seat them up, deflate them and add the sealant then pump them back up again.

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Old 11-11-12, 09:24 PM
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Since I am waiting for my new wheels I decided to inspect my Fusion 3s that have about 1K miles on them now and still in good shape. I counted 6 punctures that had stans sealing them up. I had 3 cuts that didn't make it through. I had never lost enough PSI while riding to notice. I cleaned them up and used some rubber cement to fill the cuts.

I am going to mount the rear on the front and run them until they die. Then it's on to some new Bontrager R3 TLR 25c to try something new. Or I might give the new specialized roubaix tubeless a shot.
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Old 11-11-12, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine
Since I am waiting for my new wheels I decided to inspect my Fusion 3s that have about 1K miles on them now and still in good shape. I counted 6 punctures that had stans sealing them up. I had 3 cuts that didn't make it through. I had never lost enough PSI while riding to notice. I cleaned them up and used some rubber cement to fill the cuts.

I am going to mount the rear on the front and run them until they die. Then it's on to some new Bontrager R3 TLR 25c to try something new. Or I might give the new specialized roubaix tubeless a shot.
Almost every puncture I have had that the Stans worked on went thwip-thwip-thwip and then quiet again. Never even stop to check them if that happens. The couple of bigger punctures still went down slower than they would have without sealant, and I just tube patched on the inside of the tire to repair them, then a little Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) to close the cut up again.

Last edited by noise boy; 11-11-12 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 11-11-12, 10:59 PM
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Ultegra tubeless, Hutchinson Atoms and Fusions, Stan's. 6 months and one flat that needed a repair (big cut that would have nailed any tire). Great ride quality even at 100-110 PSI, and most wire and glass punctures seal themselves.

Proceeding:

Originally Posted by StanSeven
From Competitive Cyclistre rolling resistance)

"If you ever wonder how different tires roll compared to one another, this is the most comprehensive source we know of. He tests Hutchinson Fusion 2's. Surprisingly to us, the tire does not test very well with a Crr (coefficient of rolling resistance) of .331 and taking 16.3 watts per wheel to power. For contrast, the "winner' was the Vittoria Pista Evo CS tubular with a Crr of .002200 and taking 10.8w per wheel to power. A Vittoria Corsa Evo CX clincher with a Michelin Latex tube did .00250 Crr and 12.3w per wheel to power."
I hate when people selectively quote studies without looking at the actual data.

The Hutchinson tubeless was a used Fusion 2 tested in 2008, they are up to Fusion 3's the Atom is a better Crr tire if that's a concern, and they now have a 25c Intensive out for people looking for something wider and even more durable. I'm probably going to run these at Battenkill next Spring.

While the old Fusion 2 wasn't as good as a very fragile track tubular tire (the Pista, which I run on my track bike) by 5 or so watts (around 2-3% of the average "cruise" output for most men), it was only a watt to the worse (or better) than a bunch of commonly used performance tires with latex tubes. And only 3w worse than the best performing clincher tire with a latex tube that you'd consider as a daily rider.

Price out latex tubes and you'll see why most people use butyl, and few shops even stock latex. Throw in a butyl tube and those tires lose performance, making tubeless suddenly look pretty good. No pinch flats, self sealing punctures...how many watts will it take you to catch up after repairing a flat while I keep riding?

To say that they "don't test out very well" is a bit like saying the 14.9 LB bike is quite heavy compared to the 14.6 LB bike.

Last edited by Racer Ex; 11-11-12 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 11-13-12, 11:23 PM
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Converted both my Zipp 101s and 404FC to tubeless (Fusion 3's with Stan's Sealant) since 8/2012. So far, so good. No flats (knock on wood) and the ride quality is superb since I get to ride with lower pressures (95 psi front and back). I weigh about 182lbs and I don't even think about flatting any more. Love it!
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