Recommend an S&S coupled bike
#76
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Nice (I was thinking about doing that too).
Bilenky charges about $1500 for the couplers, frame work, and the case. Ti doesn't require repainting/touching-up the frame. The S&S Ti couplers are more expensive than the steel ones. Cost of a retrofit for steel isn't that much cheaper (because the frame needs repainting/touching up) but the steel frame is cheaper to begin with than Ti.
Bilenky charges about $1500 for the couplers, frame work, and the case. Ti doesn't require repainting/touching-up the frame. The S&S Ti couplers are more expensive than the steel ones. Cost of a retrofit for steel isn't that much cheaper (because the frame needs repainting/touching up) but the steel frame is cheaper to begin with than Ti.
#77
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The $1500 is for Ti (I wasn't quite clear) and includes the $450 case.
It doesn't seem that what you spent was that much cheaper (it was somewhat cheaper but not wildly so).
Even a few years ago, it would have been easy to tell that getting $400 for it might not have been a very good idea.
It seems that the couplers add about $500 to a custom steel frame.
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Since the integrated headset includes the cups where the bearins sit (basically), it means the effective length is even less than the standard (it appears).
https://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/Int2...sExplained.pdf
(Just to be clear: none of this is bad. Ritchey has been in the business for years and has a good reputation.)
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-08-13 at 12:27 PM.
#79
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Powdercoat is considerably more durable than liquid paint, so that's a good alternative if you're not going for a metal that can be left naked.
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$850 then is about $1188.52 now.
The $1500 is for Ti (I wasn't quite clear) and includes the $450 case.
It doesn't seem that what you spent was that much cheaper (it was somewhat cheaper but not wildly so).
Even a few years ago, it would have been easy to tell that getting $400 for it might not have been a very good idea.
It seems that the couplers add about $500 to a custom steel frame.
The $1500 is for Ti (I wasn't quite clear) and includes the $450 case.
It doesn't seem that what you spent was that much cheaper (it was somewhat cheaper but not wildly so).
Even a few years ago, it would have been easy to tell that getting $400 for it might not have been a very good idea.
It seems that the couplers add about $500 to a custom steel frame.
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#84
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Up to date developments in bike parts can work to make packing the S&S case harder or easier depending... For example, compact bars fit better in the case than deep drop bars do. Compact cranks fit better and generally make sense for a travel bike which is often taken to mountain areas (that was my situation). But the new designs in cranks and bottom brackets are not helpful to packing the case. It used to be one could just remove the drive side of the crank leaving the smaller NDS and bottom bracket in place. Now both sides and rather ungainly spindle have to come out if you have a modern crank on large frame. Low profile box rimmed wheels are easier to pack than deep V wheels, because they take up less room in the middle of the case. This is especially true regarding fitting the bars and brifters in around the wheels. My point is that when outfitting a break-apart frame that you might buy bare to build up, you can choose your components with an eye toward the packing process and make life easier in future.
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I just received a reply to an inquiry I made to Bill Holland regarding the packability of HIS Ritchey type design bikes in S&S cases. He assured me that he has not found a limit (even 64 cm) to the size of his Jet (Ritchey-type with his modifications) frame that will fit in the S&S case. Good information.
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+1. I made the switch to compact bars due to easier packing, and ended up liking them so much I put them on my other bikes.
#88
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I just received a reply to an inquiry I made to Bill Holland regarding the packability of HIS Ritchey type design bikes in S&S cases. He assured me that he has not found a limit (even 64 cm) to the size of his Jet (Ritchey-type with his modifications) frame that will fit in the S&S case. Good information.
#89
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A bit late to the party.
I have a friend who helped me with Bethel for many years. He traveled extensively for work and bought a bike specifically to use when traveling, an S&S Merlin/Spectrum (made by Merlin, geo/sizing by Spectrum).
Some notes on his bike:
1. He rode the S&S bike more than his other one because it was stiffer. I believe he had an Extralight with S&S and a regular Merlin/Spectrum without S&S. The S&S effectively shorten tube lengths because they don't flex at all. This means that a 58 cm top tube might be more like a 38 cm after the S&S is installed.
2. With some S&S compatible case (it had rounded corners, it was square, light gray) he could fit his 58-ish cm frame fine. He deflated the tires, for the record. I think the worst thing was that he had to remove his crankarm or chainrings.
3. If you're willing to invest in the frame a bit you can get more than the normal 2 S&S couplings installed. I really liked Zinn's bike, which I saw and photographed.
(Photo by me)
You can see that the top/down tubes become just tubes, the stem splits, and I imagine he doesn't have to do much bar/stem manipulation to get this thing to pack up. If I was traveling a lot I'd want something like this.
There were a lot of Litespeeds and Merlins sold your way - you might be able to pick up a used one and have it retrofitted. We sold the Merlins, which when custom were labeled Spectrum, i.e. Tom Kellog's brand. A standard round tubed Merlin may be a bit flexible, even with S&S couplers, but an oversize tubed Extralight, with S&S.... that would be nice schnizzle.
Of course the breakaway thing is cool too. I just don't have experience with it.
I have a friend who helped me with Bethel for many years. He traveled extensively for work and bought a bike specifically to use when traveling, an S&S Merlin/Spectrum (made by Merlin, geo/sizing by Spectrum).
Some notes on his bike:
1. He rode the S&S bike more than his other one because it was stiffer. I believe he had an Extralight with S&S and a regular Merlin/Spectrum without S&S. The S&S effectively shorten tube lengths because they don't flex at all. This means that a 58 cm top tube might be more like a 38 cm after the S&S is installed.
2. With some S&S compatible case (it had rounded corners, it was square, light gray) he could fit his 58-ish cm frame fine. He deflated the tires, for the record. I think the worst thing was that he had to remove his crankarm or chainrings.
3. If you're willing to invest in the frame a bit you can get more than the normal 2 S&S couplings installed. I really liked Zinn's bike, which I saw and photographed.
(Photo by me)
You can see that the top/down tubes become just tubes, the stem splits, and I imagine he doesn't have to do much bar/stem manipulation to get this thing to pack up. If I was traveling a lot I'd want something like this.
There were a lot of Litespeeds and Merlins sold your way - you might be able to pick up a used one and have it retrofitted. We sold the Merlins, which when custom were labeled Spectrum, i.e. Tom Kellog's brand. A standard round tubed Merlin may be a bit flexible, even with S&S couplers, but an oversize tubed Extralight, with S&S.... that would be nice schnizzle.
Of course the breakaway thing is cool too. I just don't have experience with it.
#91
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It looks retrofitting the couplers costs $12-1400 at Bilenky, who appears to be the highest volume provider of the service. So, a $1000 e-bay frame turns into a $2500 investment. It seems to make more sense to go with the new frame once you look at those prices. Provided you can get one for $2k or less, which, if you include Ritchey is possible.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
#92
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It looks retrofitting the couplers costs $12-1400 at Bilenky, who appears to be the highest volume provider of the service. So, a $1000 e-bay frame turns into a $2500 investment. It seems to make more sense to go with the new frame once you look at those prices. Provided you can get one for $2k or less, which, if you include Ritchey is possible.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
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It looks retrofitting the couplers costs $12-1400 at Bilenky, who appears to be the highest volume provider of the service. So, a $1000 e-bay frame turns into a $2500 investment. It seems to make more sense to go with the new frame once you look at those prices. Provided you can get one for $2k or less, which, if you include Ritchey is possible.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
I'm not sure what value there is in having multiple couplers per tube on 56, since I don't think the top tube length will be the most limited factor after being taken apart (seat tube and Wheels some to mind). But I like the idea. If I were getting a retrofit done I would consider doing some extra.
#94
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BUY THE RITCHEY.
If anyone's in Seattle area and want to get first-hand experience with a Ritchey, you can try out mine and we'll get a beer and talk travel bikes.
If you're bothered with the stock case, then sell it and buy an S&S, which fits the Ritchey, even larger sizes, nicely (you have to follow the S&S packing instructions). You're going to pay for the S&S case even if you buy a custom S&S bike regardless. I run an S&S case with my Ritchey (with S&S padding, compression members, and TSA net) and found it's the magic combo for me.
I've owned both Steel and Ti/Carbon road versions (sold the steel for the Ti). Love them both; excellent riding bikes. I sold my other bikes (carbon and aluminum frames) and kept the Ritchey. S&S is a nice concept, but frankly, unnecessarily overbuilt, heavy, and somewhat clunky... and mega expen$ive. I personally haven't been able to reconcile the justification in functionality or aesthetics or whatever, for the significant extra cost... unless the desire is for a tandem or something funky. (But Ritchey's Tandem Breakaway is reported to come available in about a year or so.) I'd rather spend that amount on my cycling vacation than on my bike. (and my bike is pretty bling as it is.)
If anyone's in Seattle area and want to get first-hand experience with a Ritchey, you can try out mine and we'll get a beer and talk travel bikes.
If you're bothered with the stock case, then sell it and buy an S&S, which fits the Ritchey, even larger sizes, nicely (you have to follow the S&S packing instructions). You're going to pay for the S&S case even if you buy a custom S&S bike regardless. I run an S&S case with my Ritchey (with S&S padding, compression members, and TSA net) and found it's the magic combo for me.
I've owned both Steel and Ti/Carbon road versions (sold the steel for the Ti). Love them both; excellent riding bikes. I sold my other bikes (carbon and aluminum frames) and kept the Ritchey. S&S is a nice concept, but frankly, unnecessarily overbuilt, heavy, and somewhat clunky... and mega expen$ive. I personally haven't been able to reconcile the justification in functionality or aesthetics or whatever, for the significant extra cost... unless the desire is for a tandem or something funky. (But Ritchey's Tandem Breakaway is reported to come available in about a year or so.) I'd rather spend that amount on my cycling vacation than on my bike. (and my bike is pretty bling as it is.)
Last edited by seattle29er; 07-30-13 at 10:30 PM.