my58vw

Alright I finally took the time to calculate the actual weight of my bike in grams... here we go.

I would like sugestions on how to shave off about 1 more pound off the bike...

Trek 2100 weight analysis

2100 frame (carbon stays) in 63cm – 1500g
Bontrager Race Carbon Fork – 610g
Cane Creek 1 1/8 headset – 116g
Bontrager Race 130 mm stem – 190g
Bontrager Race OS 44 cm handlebar – 270g
Bontrager Gel Tape – 70g
Bontrager Race XXX Lite 330 mm seatpost w/bolt – 190g
Trek Standard Seatpost Clamp w/bolt – 14g
Bontrager Race Lite Selle San Marco Saddle – 210g
Trek Black Waterbottle holders (2) 48g x 2 = 96g
Total = 3266g

Race X Lite 05’ Areo Wheelset w/skewers – 1710g
Victoria Rubino Kevlar Pro Clinchers x2 – 230g x 2 = 460g
Pyramid Long Stem 700cc tubes x2 – 70g x 2 = 140g
Total 2310g

Dura Ace 7800 Drivetrain
180 mm Crankset (39-53) with standard hardware + BB -- 765g (99g BB)
Band Front Deraileur 31.8 – 83g
Rear short cage derailleur— 186g
Ultegra 10 Speed 12-27 Cassette – 235g (Dura ace will save 40g)
10 Speed Dura Ace Chain – 275g
Brake Calipers (with standard dura ace pads) – 311.5g (150g/160g/F/B)
STI 10 Speed shifters and Brake Levers – 419g
Total = 2274.5g

Shimano Cables (brake and shifters) -- 250g

Speedplay X5 Pedals -- 214g
Flightdeck Wireless with sensor – 31g (computer) + 77g (wireless kit)
(give or take.2 pounds for air in tires, etc)
Total = 8422g = 18.56 pounds

The things that I know will save me weight
Race XXX lite fork (-230g)
Race XXX lite Stem (-70g)
Race X Lite OS Bars (-60g)
Speedplay X3 SS pedels (-30g)

This will get me to around 17.5 pounds
Is there anything else I should be looking at to save some more weight?

Remember I am 6'6, 225 pounds (will be 200 pounds soon) so Ti stuff is out. Also I am not touching the drivetrain (no zero gravity brakes)

Tires I have to stay this heavy because of the roads on train on, -50 grams for my race tires

Thanks as always
P.S. please do not turn this into a it is the rider thread. I am working my butt off training to get stronger. This is not about that, I just want to know what the teoretical limit on the bikes weight is (BTW this will end up being a 3700 dollar 2100 with all the upgrades. With a new carbon frame (thinking 5.9 or orbea, etc) the bike the bike will end up around 5500 which is about the price of the full carbon version off the shelf... this has been discussed)

Thanks again

pjbaz

There is a thread about CF bottle cages...You cann shave a few grams that way.

If it's worth it is up to you...

PJ

RoadToad

Are you having a leg amputated? You shouldn't be able to be at 200 real soon. Do it the right way, so that it comes off slowly and permanently.

RT

Brett 12

Sounds like you are planning upgrades....then will do a frame swap when all the parts are obtained.

Those XXX Race parts really don't belong on a everyday bike. I hear they fatigue faster. THings to consider.

LowCel 

Have you considered a new wheelset? I bought a set of wheels from Mike Garcia at www.oddsandendos.com that I am very happy with.

I went with American classic hubs laced to dt swiss rims. The total "real" weight is 1400 grams. This alone would save you 11 ounces.

Oh yeah, these wheels were built for me at 205 pounds. They held up fine to a season where I topped out at 215 pounds though. If you talk to Mike he will be able to build a set of wheels that will be perfect for you.

LowCel 

Oops, didn't see you were including the weight of your skewers with the wheelset. Add about another 80 grams for some ti skewers.

Also, with the pedals have you considered going with the zero stainless? That would save a little bit (not really enough to worry about) but more importantly it would allow you to adjust your float. My zero stainless weigh 195 grams.

my58vw

Well in the next 5 - 6 months (loosing about 1 - 1.5 pounds per week now), is soon I guess. I am just saying that because that is where I am heading with all the training that I am doing.

As to the XXX Lite parts... yes I will be swaping them eventually to a new frame or using this as a crit bike (more likely) and building a campy record bike full carbon. The XXX lite parts are not extremly lite (compared to EC90 for example). They use al stereers still and the CF stems have some al parts in them. The fork is almost 430 grams compared to 350 or so for the EC90. A few riders I ride with have XXX lite parts on madones and have no problems with them (riding double centuries, etc). Of course these parts are redicusly expensive (about 400 for the fork, 250 for the stem and 225 for the bars) so they may or may not end up on the bike.

I can always go back to the stock fork and handlebars and stem for this one too, but they should still be fairly durable. I can not really go with less that DA for the drivetrain though (180 mm cranks) so they will probably not be coming off the bike. It is a real toss up right now.

The bike stripped (no water bottles, saddle bag, pump, etc) is very quick. I just want it to be a little lighter. The difference for the carbon components will be more for feel and also weight.

IBRCJohn

Quite honestly, ride those parts until you lose the weight. Then when you are pleased with the shape you are in, reward yourself with the new components.

Why fatigue super high end components when you aren't really benefiting from them? Wait it out, enjoy the riding, and LATER, you should enjoy the upgrading.

Corsaire

You'll reduce even more weight by using Bold Precision skewers: 48 grams a pair!

Corsaire

my58vw

I am not going to get them right now, as in today or tomarrow, etc. I am looking at an upgrade path in the future for the bike. More likely as a reward for placing in the top X racers in a crit this season which will be awhile...

I like the idea of rewards, my DA10 Drivetrain came after I finished my first century and metric century within a week...

forum*rider

Fork can be replaced, Easton EC90 SLX is 295g. I have no idea about the durability though.

parts could be optimized. be careful though, don't want to shave too much off.

Easton carbon EC90 bars weigh in at 195 grams.


Theres a bunch of stuff that could be done. Do you want to lose the weight in a specific area? and how much money do you want to spend? thats the bif limiter...

Corsaire

This thread is making me wonder about this:

Does all this "weight loss" affects the handling and performance of the bike which was designed for in the first place ?

Corsaire

galen_52657

I am 6'4" and it took me 3 years to loose 30 lbs.....

And it will prolly take more than a month and a half to loose the 5 lbs I put back on over the winter...

forum*rider

I would say it depends where you are losing the weight. If you're really heavy and are using sub 20 spoke wheels then the bike is going to handle like a wet noodle.

If you plan out where you are going to shave off weight and make it even over the whole bike then I don't think it will affect handling that much.

Performance on the other hand will, IMO, be improved once you shave off a bit of weight.

Corsaire

I'm not going crazy, but I've upgraded few things on my Vigorelli from stock items:

carbon handlebar easton
carbon seat post
light saddle (TI rails)
light tires
bold precision skewers
my next (and last ) upgrade will be from the stock Cosmos to the Ksyrium SSL wheels.

So far, I've noticed I definitely climb better and accelerate faster when cranking up , but don't know how ultimately the Ksyrium SSL will affect the rolling and handling on that steel frame. I'm 160 by the way (gained 5 lbs this winter ooops!)
Corsaire

zacster

I've been obsessing over the weight of my new CF bike, which came in over 18 pounds. Full Chorus build, with heavyish Vento wheels. Since it is brand spanking new, I'm not replacing anything that's screwed on and adjusted, but theoretically I can still lose 2-3 pounds without swapping out the Chorus.

So far my list is like this:
1500g wheels, unknown type at this point, -500g
Tiso cassette, around 125g, -95g
AmClassic Ti Skewers, 90g, -45g
Keo Pedals, 230g, -360g

That's around 1000g, or 2.2 pounds. If I go down another 100g or so on the wheels or other components, I've lost the weight of my frame! Right now though, the only thing I'm replacing anytime soon is the pedals, the ones I have are 1st generation Look. I've already spent too much on the bike, and superlight wheels don't do too well in NYC.

I would say the easiest way to lose weight on your 2100 is the frame. Get a 1000-1100kg CF frame, and you'll be down a pound.

triggersd

I must be missing something, or uninformed. Why no Ti?

my58vw

titanium -- weight limit usually about 170 pounds for some components (say speedplay X1 pedals).

I like the easton fork at the sub 300 weight. They get that by using a carbon steerer which of course I do not want. The face xxx lite at 370 uses carbon 110 and an Al steerer, seems to be much more durable...

in the last 6 months I have lost 25 pounds, another 25 I would estimate in the next 6 months, maybe 8...

I am riding 5 days a week over 160 miles per week plus running... weight will come off (as long as I eat right)

mrballistic

you could get rid of the gears and all of that and make it a fixie... then it'll be super light!

/me ducks

Lectron

You don't wanna touch your drivetrain ? I understand that. DA is great stuff.
Here's a copy from Excel of one of my bikes.

Frame : ’04 Airborne Manhattan Project 59 cm 1 650 g
Fork: True Temper Alpha Q Two 7 (cut at 24cm) 275 g
Headset: Chris King (w.o. top cap etc.) 86 g
Headset Spacers: Carbon 10mm 5 g
Handlebar: Kuota Viking 120 / 42 w / comp****ug. 398 g
Handlebar Tape: PRO 35 g
Saddle: Selle San Marco ASPide Night Train 143 g
Seatpost: New ultimate 102 g
Seat Binder: Airborne 28 g
Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace FD-7800 w/ clamp 83 g
Rear Derailleur: Tiso Altore 172 g
Shift & Brake Levers: Shimano Dura-Ace ST-7800 420 g
Crank Set: Stronglight Pulsion 52/38 w/Royce Ti bolts 440 g
Bottom Bracket: American Classic ISIS 140 g
Cassette: Tiso K7 ultra 10v 12-25 incl. Lockring 127 g
Chain: Wippeman / Connex 10S1 244 g
Brakes: Zero Gravity OG-04 189 g
Cable & Housing : Nokon 118 g
Wheelset: Shimano Dura Ace 7800 1 584 g
Skewers Tune, Quickie AC14 racer 49 g
Tubes Continental Race Supersonic 100 g
Tyres: Continental Attack & Force 420 g
Cables & Housings: Nokon 118 g
Pedals: Speedplay X-1 w/aluplates 134 g
Bottle Cage: Profile design kk-2 Carbon 55 g
Computer: VDO Matrix MC 1.0 60 g
Calculated weight : 7 175 g

As you can see, my frame is heavier than yours. The wheels are 1584g. But the total is 7175.
Take a look at the Cables and housing. Must be the cheapest 100g

my58vw

Looking at the actual weights vs the weighed weight there is a .8 pound difference... of course the scale maybe off a little and things like air could add some weight. The last bike specs out at 16 pounds, amazing. The thing that strikes me is the difference in a few parts.

The fork - 610 vs sub 300... that is almost 3/4 of a pound
The saddle and seat post - almost 200 grams'

The two items drop nearly 1.1 pounds off the bike easily.

Speed play x1 vs x5 - 90 grams
Cables 100 grams
Headset - 60 gram
Crank and BB... nearly 200 grams
Brakes, and on and on.

Of course we have to look at durability amoung other things. Could I survive on a 140 gra, saddle, not at 220 pounds, a 100 gram seatpost, nah. X1's are out of the question. For my bike to spec out at 17.5 pounds would be awsome. New cables and we could be about 17 with a few other mods.

All the small weights do add up quick... it is just a matter of how far you can go...

Some things like zero gravity brakes will never happen!

Phatman

I'd go with the lighter fork, and you can get lighter wheels for not toooooo much, though the race light aeros are good wheels, from what I hear.

Brett 12

I was just going to say it's easier and more cost effcetive sometimes to save weight on your cycling kit than on your bike. Tubular wheels are always nice.

Then when you get to the podium.....

my58vw

Tubular race wheelset would be nice... perfect for crits... hmmm 1000 gram wheelset.

Since wheels are very expensive (like 600+) clinchers are not going to get lighter very soon. Remember I do weight 200+ so a stong wheelset in the junk that I ride in is a must. Tublars would be awsome for racing though. I have some race lite tires that are very light that I could use for racing, probably will swap them next time.

The race x lite areos are awsomly strong wheels for 1700 grams per set. I am sure that lighter tires would save 100 - 150 grams off the bike. I am more concerned about getting a new fork though as it is the most weight savings for the money, then maybe some tubulars.

BTW is there a good site for using tubular wheelsets and maybe a few recomendations...

RiPHRaPH

Ti stuff is out? am i also missing something here?

do you do a lot of climbing? mountains? that's the only place you need such weight savings>>and then if you aren't a pro it is questionable/