got my 52/36 rings the other day. Probably put them on over the weekend, not quite sure yet.
-Cat-3-o-meter: TBD :/
"Ha ha! You fool! You fell victim to one of the classic blunders - The most famous of which is 'never get involved in a land war in Asia'".
- Vizzini during his "battle of wits" with the Man in Black
Putting a 50-34 on my gravel bike so I can sit and spin hills on loose ground.
[CENTER][URL="http://JonPFischer.com"][COLOR="#006400"]Fischer Photography[/COLOR][/URL] - [URL="http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/785462-My-new-modern-quot-Classic-quot-Kirk-JKS-Classic-Terraplane"][COLOR="#8b0000"]Kirk Frameworks JKS-Classic Build Thread[/COLOR][/URL][/CENTER]
One outgrowth of discussion is...a rider gets more benefit out of changing the cassette versus crankset. In the example above 3 teeth more on the crank doesn't even equal a 1 tooth change in the cassette at the top end.
Last edited by Campag4life; 05-31-13 at 10:35 AM.
No offense intended, but this is a great example of how ways can be found with math to discredit the simple act of riding a bike.
We all ride differently. If you consult Sheldon's gear-inch calculator, you will see that the difference is only a little over 1 mph at 50-11 vs 50-12. This supports my assertion that it matters more where one is on the speed curve than just the basic math suggests. If you are going 5 mph and try to push a 50-11, it is the same at that speed as trying to push 50-12. At 40+ mph it is a different story.
Stick that in your slide rule and smoke it
Does gearing really make this much difference? In general, people seem to focus on one gear on the bottom which may make an 8-10% difference, or one gear on the top, so they don't "spin out". It seems to me that no matter what gearing you pick, you will always find a situation where you have to mash on a climb or coast on a descent. Did this morph into the road racing sub forum, and is there money at stake? I just don't get how people so focus on searching for the perfect gearing.
I have done the same group ride for 3+ years, and whether it is on a standard crank, compact crank, 1x9, or 1x1, I have always survived, my "speed" always matches the groups, and if I get dropped it is because my will failed, and never my gearing.
Where spinning out does matter is on big rollers. There are two ways to approach these: 1) treat each downhill as a descent to be coasted, and then climb each uphill, or 2) steady effort - which means pedaling on the downhill to get enough speed to get you over the next uphill, then simply maintaining steady effort up hill and down vale. Speed may vary between 45mph and 10mph. If you can do the latter those rollers suddenly become MUCH easier. As in A LOT easier.