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  1. #126
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    I like 50-24-34.

  2. #127
    In the Pain Cave thechemist's Avatar
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    I prefer 50-34 in flats and on hills. I use an 11-25 cassette. I am comfortable with my cadence at 95-100

  3. #128
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankAndYank View Post
    I like 50-24-34.
    Nicely done.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  4. #129
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    I have three bikes with cables, one bike with electric shifting. All I can say is that I spend much less time putting the battery on charge every month or two than I spend replacing cables every six months or so.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  5. #130
    Powered by Borscht ovoleg's Avatar
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    Been riding compact(50/34) for about 5 years now and LOVE it. It's the perfect mix of gearing. That said, I'm getting another set of rings for a sub-compact(52/36) which will be better for the terrain I'm in now.

    I run an 11-28 cassette...I love the setup.
    -Cat-3-o-meter: TBD :/

  6. #131
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ovoleg View Post
    Been riding compact(50/34) for about 5 years now and LOVE it. It's the perfect mix of gearing. That said, I'm getting another set of rings for a sub-compact(52/36) which will be better for the terrain I'm in now.

    I run an 11-28 cassette...I love the setup.
    I am going to get a set of 52-36 for my tt bike. Probably go with a 11-23 cassette.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  7. #132
    In the Pain Cave thechemist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ovoleg View Post
    Been riding compact(50/34) for about 5 years now and LOVE it. It's the perfect mix of gearing. That said, I'm getting another set of rings for a sub-compact(52/36) which will be better for the terrain I'm in now.

    I run an 11-28 cassette...I love the setup.

    Let me know how that goes. I am probably going to end up with a 52/36 and 11-26 by the end of the year as well

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel View Post
    I have three bikes with cables, one bike with electric shifting. All I can say is that I spend much less time putting the battery on charge every month or two than I spend replacing cables every six months or so.
    That's an oddly high rate of cable changing. People who ride one bike a lot can easily get a year out of cables.

  9. #134
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by njkayaker View Post
    That's an oddly high rate of cable changing. People who ride one bike a lot can easily get a year out of cables.
    I generally replace housing on my primary bikes once a year, cables every six months. That is actually a pretty normal rate. Last year I still snapped two cables, one front and one rear. The front was at the top of Snowshoe mountain, wasn't a huge deal but sucked riding down the other side stuck in my small front ring.
    Last edited by LowCel; 05-22-13 at 06:53 AM.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  10. #135
    has a Large Member Campag4life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
    Eddy dominated the spring classics with a 52x13.

    50x13 is only half a gear easier than Eddy used and plenty for the rest of us, being pleasant for cruising speeds up to 30 MPH and sprints 40. Going down steeper hills tucking works well enough.

    People did fine with 52x14 as the common top gear during the bike boom. I've run 50x13 for the last 16 years including a decade in the Colorado Rockies. The advantage over a smaller starting cog is that you get more in between for a given range, and cogs running 16-17-18-19 feel great on flat ground.

    This ignores the applications of smaller cogs with smaller rings, where eschewing the fully-cross-chained combinations a 34 ring with an 11 starting cog is like having a double with a 39 ring and 13 starting cog or triple with a 39 and 14.

    Noting that I've been playing with 50-39-30 and a 14-23 10 cog straight block. Having one cog jumps to the 21 cog is a little better than stopping at the 19, but the 22 is superfluous unless you're Lance time trialing up l'Alpe d'Huez and 13-26 or 12-23 is probably a better choice.
    Drew, I will respond to you because you have given so much great advice and have really thought about gearing and experienced a lot of different riding environments. To you other guys...thank so much for all the great advice and sharing your experience. Has been an enlightening thread and didn't expect this level of traction. Bottom line when doing long distance rides like centuries when the last 20 miles of the road starts to turn up...gearing matters.

    Drew...I feel ya on the triple bro. I owned a Campy triple a few years back and loved it. Tight spacing...lived on the middle ring mostly and rode it like a 52/42 but when I needed the short gear inches, they were there. I believe this explains the love hate relationship with a compact and why it took so long for compacts to eclipse triple cranks in sales....in spite of reduced complexity aka 2 versus 3 chain rings and weight reduction...gear spacing just isn't as friendly with a compact.

    So what will I do moving forward? Based upon all the great input from this thread and the relatively foul taste of riding my unmodified 50/34 Campy compact before I changed the inner ring to 38t...I will change the cassette instead. In fact, this seems to follow the trend that Sram and Shimano and now Campy is following suit with...spawned I believe from the mtb crowd which are also evolving to 2 versus 3 chainring cranks. The trend is toward bigger cassettes. In context of Campy which has offered a 13-29 10s cassette for years, that will be my next cassette I will move to without changing the 50/38 because I don't want to give up the nice tight front spacing if I don't have to. Doing some quick math, a 38t front ring with 29 tooth rear cog is the equivalent of a 32-33t front ring with 25t biggest cog in back. This will do for my riding with modest hill grades even after my legs are toasted. As to all the guys here that can't live with 50-13 for descending, I'm with you Drew....I can too and you rode one in the Rockies for a decade. Without racing and need for powering down the hills since I don't like to descend too fast anyway for safely, a 50-13 at high cadence will be fine. Further, a bigger lower cog keeps a 13-29 cassette more tightly spaced which is reported to work fine with short cage Campy rear derailleur even with wide spacing of full 50/34 compact. It will work even better with 50/38 because chain length difference won't be as extreme small-small to big-big. Campy also now sells 12-30 I believe in response to Sram and Shimano offerings, but have to believe a medium cage derailleur would be required to handle the chain length difference of a 12-30 between gearing extremes.

    Thanks again everybody.
    Last edited by Campag4life; 05-22-13 at 07:19 AM.

  11. #136
    RT
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    Never snapped a cable, but I carry one each with me. With electronic shifting, there is no way I know of to to carry spare unicorn horn powder

  12. #137
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT View Post
    Never snapped a cable, but I carry one each with me. With electronic shifting, there is no way I know of to to carry spare unicorn horn powder
    They make an app for that.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  13. #138
    Portland Fred banerjek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel View Post
    I generally replace housing on my primary bikes once a year, cables every six months. That is actually a pretty normal rate. Last year I still snapped two cables, one front and one rear. The front was at the top of Snowshoe mountain, wasn't a huge deal but sucked riding down the other side stuck in my small front ring.
    I was also thinking the rate of changing seems high -- sounds like you'd be doing the cables as often as the chains. Losing 2 cables in one year with them getting swapped out that often makes me think you're insanely unlucky or something weird is going on.

  14. #139
    RT
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    Quote Originally Posted by banerjek View Post
    I was also thinking the rate of changing seems high -- sounds like you'd be doing the cables as often as the chains. Losing 2 cables in one year with them getting swapped out that often makes me think you're insanely unlucky or something weird is going on.
    Or fixing bolts too tight.

  15. #140
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT View Post
    Or fixing bolts too tight.
    Neither broke at the bolt. Might be because we have so many ups and downs here, have to do lots and lots of shifting. Luckily installing new cables is quick and easy, just not as easy as charging a battery once every couple of months.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  16. #141
    Throw the stick!!!! LowCel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by banerjek View Post
    I was also thinking the rate of changing seems high -- sounds like you'd be doing the cables as often as the chains. Losing 2 cables in one year with them getting swapped out that often makes me think you're insanely unlucky or something weird is going on.
    Primary bike - twice a year now electric so not necessary.
    Time trial bike - when I get new equipment.
    Trainer / winter bike - once a year.
    Cross bike - once or twice a year depending.
    I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.

  17. #142
    token triathlete Bah Humbug's Avatar
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    The love for 52/36 is interesting; my goal for next year is to get my FTP from 251 -> 265 so my small ring can jump to 38t, which would mean I can move up to a 130bcd and 52/38. I wouldn't want a 16t jump again.

  18. #143
    Senior Member bikemig's Avatar
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    Good thread. I'm impressed that no love has been shown for cross gearing. One of my favorites bikes has a 48-38 with a 12-27 on the rear. I like that you can spin on both the 48 or 38 and the 38 running on a 27 gives you a very good low gear. I used this combo a lot in a really hilly area.

    I have a 50-34 crank sitting in a box that I plan on using fora new build. I'll give it a try but I suspect I'll swap out the inner for a 38 before too long. I don't live somewhere too hilly now so I know the drop down to 34 will drive me crazy sooner or later,

  19. #144
    RT
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
    Good thread. I'm impressed that no love has been shown for cross gearing. One of my favorites bikes has a 48-38 with a 12-27 on the rear. I like that you can spin on both the 48 or 38 and the 38 running on a 27 gives you a very good low gear. I used this combo a lot in a really hilly area.

    I have a 50-34 crank sitting in a box that I plan on using fora new build. I'll give it a try but I suspect I'll swap out the inner for a 38 before too long. I don't live somewhere too hilly now so I know the drop down to 34 will drive me crazy sooner or later,
    I like cross gearing, but even at 50t spin out on hills around here. It's not that important, really - 40 mph is fast enough. 38t really is a sweet spot.

  20. #145
    token triathlete Bah Humbug's Avatar
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    There is some love for 46/36 in here somewhere, but damned if I'm going to go through the whole thing looking for it.

  21. #146
    RT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerull View Post
    I've worked on many bikes that were just left sitting around for years and almost never have they "just worked".

    Di2, on the other hand, warns you several hundred miles before the battery dies and once it gets low enough it will disable the FD but keep the RD working to get you home. It is less likely to leave you stranded than a broken cable. Or the multiple times my ever simple and loved by retrogrouches downtube shifters loosened up and left me stuck in my highest gear in the back. But I'm sure I imagined that.
    This also happens in cars, yet people still run out of gas. If electronic shifting featured an accurate and more comprehensive gauge rather than a warning, it might be more effective and less mystery. Or make it bluetooth and a screen on your Garmin or smartphone.

    Drew brings up something I've considered for my 9 speeds - the 14-23 cassette with a triple. It makes the 30t more relevant up front, but takes out the benefit of the 52t on descents.

    The answer at which I always arrive is to HTFU.

  22. #147
    Shut up legs NathanC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT View Post
    This also happens in cars, yet people still run out of gas. If electronic shifting featured an accurate and more comprehensive gauge rather than a warning, it might be more effective and less mystery. Or make it bluetooth and a screen on your Garmin or smartphone.

    Drew brings up something I've considered for my 9 speeds - the 14-23 cassette with a triple. It makes the 30t more relevant up front, but takes out the benefit of the 52t on descents.

    The answer at which I always arrive is to HTFU.
    Deadset. Di2 is being charged ONCE in the entire Giro. If you can't remember to throw it on the charger once every three thousand kilometers, you must also forget to pump your tires up and wash your bibs as well.

  23. #148
    token triathlete Bah Humbug's Avatar
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    Or, as I put it here, charge the Di2 battery when you charge your Garmin.

  24. #149
    has a Large Member Campag4life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT View Post
    I like cross gearing, but even at 50t spin out on hills around here. It's not that important, really - 40 mph is fast enough. 38t really is a sweet spot.
    The thing about descending is...in my experience... If you are the lead rider and riding track that you know like the back of your hand, no problem. Go to it. But...if riding a century on iffy roads with a few holes here and there and riding a paceline...can be a BIG problem if riding too fast down hill. This is why I don't sweat riding anything more aggressively than 50-13. Now this won't serve hard core racers on the 41. I get that. They want power down the hill at 40+. But if doing it in the riding conditions I just experienced over the weekend, they are putting themselves at risk IMHO.

  25. #150
    Powered by Borscht ovoleg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowCel View Post
    I am going to get a set of 52-36 for my tt bike. Probably go with a 11-23 cassette.
    Quote Originally Posted by thechemist View Post
    Let me know how that goes. I am probably going to end up with a 52/36 and 11-26 by the end of the year as well
    Will do, I am primarily getting it for racing so I can really hammer the sprint better. I'm much more of a masher but on sustained climbs I prefer at least 70-80 RPM. Currently I'm rocking 11-28 casssette and honestly, its PERFECT. I cross chain 50-28 and can go anaerobic for a good amount of time on climbs which works out very well because a quick few shifts and I'll crest the top of the hill infront or with the top climbers. 50 with an 11-28 gives me the gearing for about 90% of the the climbing/flats/etc.

    The 34 is kinda questionable, I only use it when the hill is super steep or its a sustained climb. I basically use the bottom 3-4 gears(28,25,23, 21) in the 34 and it works out just fine. In 34-28 @ 50rpm its like 4mph, so if you're going slower than that, yeah gearing wont help you much, you're just standing on the pedals mashing anyways.

    I like the 28 for rides when I don't want to hammer on a climb, the 34-28 gives me that option, I can casually coast up the hills.

    I got 52/36 rings coming in this week, and I'll probably install them in a week or so. I'll let you guys know how it goes. I played around with the online calc and it isn't MUCH different. I personally don't care about going downhill faster, but i'd like to have a little more top end for crits.
    -Cat-3-o-meter: TBD :/

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