Raedeke

I'd like to upgrade to a carbon fork, but have a couple of questions to be sure I buy the right thing.

The fork that's on there now is 1" threaded AL. It's a 63cm frame so the steer tub is about 9.25". And I'm running 700C wheels.

I have been told that an all carbon fork might be a little flexi as the steer tube would be about 12".
So I am leaning toward an AL steerer.

My questions are: How do I know what size the steer tube lenght should be if I've been using a threaded fork with a stem? And is there a real difference between an all Carbon and a carbon with AL steerer?

Lastly - what should I expect to spend?

Thanks.

531Aussie

I have a 1" carbon steerer with a few spacers in a 160mm head-tube, and while it does flex a bit under heavy braking, it's not a problem at all.

I'd recommend getting a new A-head head-set, therefore the length shouldn't matter because, if you're buying a new fork, it will most likely come with an uncut, 30cm steerer.

I'm not sure you can get threaded, alu steerers. If you really wanna keep your head-set, you might able to get an old carbon fork with a threaded cro-mo steerer.

All-carbon forks are usually lighter than alu, and some people claim that carbon is stronger.

dwatson

You will need to measure from the racer to the top of the treads in mm, to get the length.
The all carbon will be a little smother than the one with the AL steerer. I really don't see a carbon steerer being flexi. The only problem with the all carbon is you need to change the headset and stem.
Fork $150 to $400 The 1" AL steerer will be on the lower end.
If you go full carbon Headset $25 to $120, stem $40 to $250.

sydney

If you are thinking threadless, then steerer length = HT length + HS stack height + stem stack height + any spacers you want to use. Longer is better as it can be shortened.

Raedeke

Should there be any considerations with the rake?
Is this defined by the angle of the HT or the type of bike -
Sorry if this is a newb question - Just interested in knowing more about how it all comes together.

531Aussie

I'm not a mechanic or an engineer, and this is only anecdotal, but I have a few bikes that have all had at least four different forks in them (steel, alu carbon), with rakes from 40mm to 45mm, and, even though it's meant to be significant, my experince is that rake and different blade length, is that it does STUFF ALL
I did, however, notice differences in different fork material, on forks that had the same rake.

I can believe I've had bike shop "experts" telling me that I'll notice a difference between a 42.5mm rake and a 45mm rake!!

While I'm at it....."carbon ain't carbon". Not all carbon forks are the same, so don't assume that just any old carbon fork is gunna give you a cushy ride. Make sure you ask plenty of people to get the right fork you want.

What are you hoping for in a carbon fork? Comfort? Light weight? Looks? Bling?
Which ever it is, make sure you get the right fork

Raedeke

Softer ride.
I have struggled with a bad back since I started riding again.
I get about 10 miles before I need to sit up, hands free and stretch the back out or get off and let it rest - then back on for the next 10 miles - have not completed my century goal yet due to the pain.
I have the carbon seat post and carbon on the frame, just thought I would try it on the fork as well.
Next stop may be the bent....

When you say you've noticed a difference with different rakes, what did you notice - ride, feel, turning???

531Aussie

Nah, sorry..."stuff all" is Aussie slang for "absolutely nothing".
I found that the different rakes did nothing, but different materials, and maybe different blade shape did a bit.

Raedeke

Yeah - my mistake -
Must be the cold I have and the couple glasses of wine.... Hopping that one will kill of the other - just not sure which...

Cheers -

Machka 

There's no difference between a steel fork and a carbon fork. I've tried both on the same bicycle on the same century route (and a rough route at that), under very similar weather conditions. No difference.

If you're struggling with a bad back, try getting the bicycle fit properly by a professional.

Also, what height are your handlebars compared with your saddle?

Fox Farm

Up until a few months ago, the Kestrel EMS Pro (made off shore but not bad) was selling for about $99 at close out. This was a 1" threaded fork. Call Nashbar, I think that was where I saw them. About 5 years ago, I installed an EMS fork and was amazed at how well it rode. This was one of the USA made forks with an aluminum steering tube. Got it from Texas Cycle Sport in Austin.

dwatson

I also deal with a bad back, a carbon fork will not fit the problem. I had to change just about everything to get back in the saddle. Like Machka said start with the fit. I changed the crank length,went shorter, saddle height, down 2mm, and stem lenght, shorter by 3mm, just to be able to ride.
Also don't forget the mid section, make it stronger, it will help with the pain.