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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 07-09-13, 11:19 AM   #1
Equinox
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Forearms on the Bars

Whenever I try to do that, it's comfortable for a few seconds, but then the sweat makes me slip off.
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Old 07-09-13, 11:21 AM   #2
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Story needs more cowbell.

Aerobars?
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Old 07-09-13, 11:22 AM   #3
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your fit and flexibility have to be good to get in this position comfortably. Most important is your saddle can't be nose down. Which would make you to put to much weight on your forearms, likely to cause slippage.
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Old 07-09-13, 11:33 AM   #4
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you can get close to the same position by just staying on the extreme ends of your hoods and bending your elbows. much safer.
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Old 07-09-13, 11:37 AM   #5
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Clamp on aero bars will fix that...
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Old 07-09-13, 11:41 AM   #6
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You need tackier tape. Try Fizik or Lizard Skin.
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Old 07-09-13, 11:46 AM   #7
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http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...vs-drops/page2
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Old 07-09-13, 11:48 AM   #8
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You need tackier tape. Try Fizik or Lizard Skin.
^This. And you can brace the outside edge of your arms against the inside edge of the hoods.
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Old 07-09-13, 11:58 AM   #9
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The hairs on my forearm provide a octo grip on the matte finish of my bar. Even with sweat.
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Old 07-09-13, 12:06 PM   #10
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Clamp on aero bars will fix that...
I tell ya', I don't see that happening.
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Old 07-09-13, 12:10 PM   #11
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I.A.B.

You must be going a minimum of 45kph to use them properly.
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Old 07-09-13, 12:34 PM   #12
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your fit and flexibility have to be good to get in this position comfortably. Most important is your saddle can't be nose down. Which would make you to put to much weight on your forearms, likely to cause slippage.
I'd say fit is more important. I have terrible flexibility, but can do the Invisible Aero Bars on 2 of my 3 bikes. The more relaxed geometry on my steel Bianchi makes it feel very awkward, but on my aluminum Schwinn and Cannondale it feels great. Adds a good 1-2mph to my speed when on the front.
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Old 07-09-13, 12:36 PM   #13
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Non-under the tape shift cables made the IAB much easier to maintain position and keep better control of the bike.
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Old 07-09-13, 12:39 PM   #14
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you need tackier tape. Try fizik or lizard skin.
imho
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Old 07-09-13, 03:58 PM   #15
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Hands on tops by the stem is lower and faster.
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Old 07-09-13, 04:10 PM   #16
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Hands on tops by the stem is lower and faster.
That depends on geometry. And also, can mean more knee-elbow contact in a true tuck.
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Old 07-09-13, 04:35 PM   #17
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Like others suggested, the fit is really important. I have a professional fit done. Having sticky tapes and gel padding is a huge plus. I did my sprint tri races with this condition. 80% of my bike leg was spent with my forearms on the handlebar.
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Old 07-09-13, 05:14 PM   #18
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Story needs more cowbell.

Aerobars?
http://www.funnyordie.com/videos/80a...b/more-cowbell
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Old 07-09-13, 05:18 PM   #19
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You need tackier elbows.
fify
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Old 07-09-13, 05:19 PM   #20
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FSA Wing bars or similar. The flat tops help give a greater area for forearm grip. If you are slipping, then your fit for that position isn't quite right.

My cables all go under the bars and under the tape. I don't quite get what MegaTom means.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:17 PM   #21
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flexible hips, hammys & back help I like the position for brief periods of time
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Old 07-10-13, 09:00 AM   #22
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Maybe I'm just really flexible but at 6' 250 I have no problems with riding with fore arms on the bars. But I usually do it in a head wind or for another position. I can ride miles on end in this position and also gain a tad bit of speed as well. But also yes hands on hoods and with a 90 degree elbow bend you are almost as low if not just as low
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Old 07-10-13, 09:06 AM   #23
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^This. And you can brace the outside edge of your arms against the inside edge of the hoods.
defeats the purpose. The advantage to the IAB position is that it's narrower. You can get just as low with hands on hoods or in the drops with a deep elbow bend. But those positions are just a touch slower because your forearms are wider.

If you're goin to flare your arms out to the hoods anyway, you might as well just ride on the hoods.

Personally, I used to use the IAB position, with externally routed shift cables. Without that extra point of contact, the slight aero advantage isn't worth the decrease in control in most situations.
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