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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 08-12-13, 04:33 PM   #26
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I have built four sets of wheel using the BHS hubs, mostly the SL211 and UL66 front. They are very well made for the price. I agree about the DS flange spacing being narrower than I like, but it's better than some popular hubs like DT. The SL218 has slightly wider DS flange spacing. The freehubs resist gouging much better than other aluminium freehubs like Powertap.

I have tried lacing the DS 1x heads in, which increases the effective flange spacing. It does make the wheel feel laterally stiffer but I'm not yet sure if it makes the wheel more durable.
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Old 08-12-13, 04:51 PM   #27
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I have built four sets of wheel using the BHS hubs, mostly the SL211 and UL66 front. They are very well made for the price. I agree about the DS flange spacing being narrower than I like, but it's better than some popular hubs like DT. The SL218 has slightly wider DS flange spacing. The freehubs resist gouging much better than other aluminium freehubs like Powertap.

I have tried lacing the DS 1x heads in, which increases the effective flange spacing. It does make the wheel feel laterally stiffer but I'm not yet sure if it makes the wheel more durable.
I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.
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Old 08-12-13, 05:31 PM   #28
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It's a shame that BDop doesn't offer a silver hub, but honestly I like a loud hub when coasting.
The Novatec isn't quiet by any means, but it isn't overly loud either...there are other distributors but I prefer BDop for these...

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Old 08-12-13, 06:13 PM   #29
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I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.
DS heads in would increase NDS tension.
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Old 08-12-13, 06:29 PM   #30
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DS heads in would increase NDS tension.
Psimet, please chime in.
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Old 08-12-13, 07:32 PM   #31
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Oh crap. If Rob is coming I better clarify:

Lacing the ds heads in will give you a marginally wider effective ds flange offset which will allow for slightly higher nds tension when the wheel is true and correctly dished.

Note that I do not lace my own wheels this way as I prefer to 2x or 3x on both sides dependent on which gives a more tangent pulling spoke.
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Old 08-12-13, 07:51 PM   #32
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I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.
Heads out on the NDS will increase NDS tension, but at the expense of a little stiffness. Heads in on the DS also increases NDS tension but with an overall increase in stiffness, not decrease. That would be a reason to prefer this latter method. It is hard to cross spokes with all the heads pointing the same way, unless the cross number is very low like 1X. If radial, then there is no problem to point all the heads on a side in one direction.
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Old 08-12-13, 10:22 PM   #33
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Just had a very reputable local wheelbuilder build some Archetypes with these hubs and Sapim Lasers. Used 24R front and 28-2X(nds and ds) and I'm 165ish. He said he was very impressed with the quality and geometry of the hubs. Mentioned it was one of the best he has seen from unbranded Taiwanese hubs.
i also built mine up with Archetypes, 28/32, and my builder was also impressed with them. That was coming from a guy that has been building wheels for decades and has been through a ton of fancy wheelsets.
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Old 08-13-13, 07:17 AM   #34
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I've built three sets personally for some of the household's bikes (all on archetypes - which also rock). Very nice hubs, unbeatable price and weight, decent color/drilling selection. It's hard to go for any other option at the price. Bikehubstore has also been quick to answer questions and help with any logistics issues.

I'm running a 20/24H set on archetypes and I weigh 180. So far, so good. The 24/28H set I built last year has been issue-free even after a few spills.


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Old 03-08-15, 12:42 PM   #35
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Just had a very reputable local wheelbuilder build some Archetypes with these hubs and Sapim Lasers. Used 24R front and 28-2X(nds and ds) and I'm 165ish. He said he was very impressed with the quality and geometry of the hubs. Mentioned it was one of the best he has seen from unbranded Taiwanese hubs.
Old thread resurrection....

I too ride a 2011 Trek 2.3 like yours and have been considering a new wheelset. I currently ride 25mm tires on my stock 19mm rims. Have you tried 25mm tires on your new 23mm wheels? I'd like to go to a wider wheelset, but I'm concerned frame and fork clearance of the Trek 2.3 won't allow anything wider than a 23mm tire with on 23mm rim.
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Old 03-08-15, 01:46 PM   #36
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Can't say anything about your clearance, but 23mm tire on a 23 rim behaves much like a 25mm tire on a 19mm rim. Inflated widths are the same and optimal pressures are the same. And handling will likely better with the 23/23 combo than the 25/19 combo. So get the wide rims and if 25 tires won't fit, be happy with 23s.
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Old 03-08-15, 02:28 PM   #37
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That is what I'm thinking Looigi. Thanks.
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Old 03-09-15, 10:01 AM   #38
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Looking at building up some of the Pacenti's. Anyone ever encountered a fork that wouldn't handle the SL71w front hubs?
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Old 03-10-15, 07:07 AM   #39
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Old thread resurrection....

I too ride a 2011 Trek 2.3 like yours and have been considering a new wheelset. I currently ride 25mm tires on my stock 19mm rims. Have you tried 25mm tires on your new 23mm wheels? I'd like to go to a wider wheelset, but I'm concerned frame and fork clearance of the Trek 2.3 won't allow anything wider than a 23mm tire with on 23mm rim.
PedroS,

I have tried 25mm tires (Continental GP4000) with my 23mm wide wheelset and have had rear brake/caliper clearance issues. It's very tight in there and the spring in the brake will rub the tire if the caliper is not perfectly center. Using 23mm Pro 4s now and love the setup. You will not have issues in the front.
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Old 03-10-15, 03:42 PM   #40
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PedroS,

I have tried 25mm tires (Continental GP4000) with my 23mm wide wheelset and have had rear brake/caliper clearance issues. It's very tight in there and the spring in the brake will rub the tire if the caliper is not perfectly center. Using 23mm Pro 4s now and love the setup. You will not have issues in the front.
I'm not surprised you had clearance issues with the Continentals. I ran a set of 25mm GP4000s and they were huge. Much larger than the 25mm Vittoria tires I run now. Thanks for your input.

Sorry for the thread hijack.
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Old 05-09-15, 06:20 AM   #41
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DS heads in would increase NDS tension.
Yes.. about as much as the length difference in those DS's lacing inbound vs outbound.

And... that ain't much.
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Old 05-09-15, 07:14 AM   #42
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Yes.. about as much as the length difference in those DS's lacing inbound vs outbound.

And... that ain't much.
But it does help. Balancing side-to-side tension often requires a strategy of a little bit here and a little bit there. NDS heads out is very helpful for balancing the tension of the two sides. Add that to an offset drilled rim and a hub with an NDS flange not too far left, and you can have very balanced wheel.
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Old 05-09-15, 08:30 AM   #43
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I've never had a use for them. I build the beater wheels with the <$100/set Taiwan or Chinese hubs and nice wheelsets with Dura Ace 9000.
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Old 05-10-15, 04:53 AM   #44
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But it does help. Balancing side-to-side tension often requires a strategy of a little bit here and a little bit there. NDS heads out is very helpful for balancing the tension of the two sides. Add that to an offset drilled rim and a hub with an NDS flange not too far left, and you can have very balanced wheel.
True enough... the offset.. which I like. That does get NDS's into the 80's generally. But you mention offsets and the internet parrots start the chorus of the one or few cranked along the spoke hole bed.

You might get.. 5 kgf max by that heads in strategy. Few 'roll your own' types get that kind of tension balance around the wheel spokes... very few.

I've cheated a few rears .1" to the left.. which does give some meaningful kgf increase.
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Old 05-17-15, 07:18 PM   #45
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Yes.. about as much as the length difference in those DS's lacing inbound vs outbound.

And... that ain't much.
Two years later you come roaring in to nit pick a correction I made for someone who was taking it in the opposite direction? Nothing gets by you.
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Old 05-17-15, 08:05 PM   #46
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Two years later you come roaring in to nit pick a correction I made for someone who was taking it in the opposite direction? Nothing gets by you.
This is one of those threads that should be locked because so much about the original topic isn't relevant anymore. The BHS hubs I was asking about have been changed/improved to the point that the original question doesn't apply.
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Old 05-18-15, 05:47 AM   #47
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This is one of those threads that should be locked because so much about the original topic isn't relevant anymore. The BHS hubs I was asking about have been changed/improved to the point that the original question doesn't apply.
Somebody would have a lot of work to do if they were going to enforce that standard.
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Old 05-18-15, 07:40 AM   #48
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So the rear hubs available now are much improved? I've been up in the air between them and the Bdops.
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Old 05-18-15, 08:06 PM   #49
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So the rear hubs available now are much improved? I've been up in the air between them and the Bdops.
The Novatecs had a definite geometry advantage for Shimano 10sp, but with the 11sp hubs everyone is much closer. Depending on what cassettes you use it might be an advantage to get the Novatec with the ABG.
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Old 05-18-15, 10:40 PM   #50
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So the rear hubs available now are much improved? I've been up in the air between them and the Bdops.
From what rpenmanparker said, the BHS hubs have improved the hub geometry, but I haven't done the research. BDop Novatec hubs are a very good value hub, and low NDS tension is not an issue.
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