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  1. #26
    Senior Member ericm979's Avatar
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    I have built four sets of wheel using the BHS hubs, mostly the SL211 and UL66 front. They are very well made for the price. I agree about the DS flange spacing being narrower than I like, but it's better than some popular hubs like DT. The SL218 has slightly wider DS flange spacing. The freehubs resist gouging much better than other aluminium freehubs like Powertap.

    I have tried lacing the DS 1x heads in, which increases the effective flange spacing. It does make the wheel feel laterally stiffer but I'm not yet sure if it makes the wheel more durable.

  2. #27
    don't misunderestimate me BoSoxYacht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    I have built four sets of wheel using the BHS hubs, mostly the SL211 and UL66 front. They are very well made for the price. I agree about the DS flange spacing being narrower than I like, but it's better than some popular hubs like DT. The SL218 has slightly wider DS flange spacing. The freehubs resist gouging much better than other aluminium freehubs like Powertap.

    I have tried lacing the DS 1x heads in, which increases the effective flange spacing. It does make the wheel feel laterally stiffer but I'm not yet sure if it makes the wheel more durable.
    I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

    The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

    The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.

  3. #28
    Senior Member gc3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht View Post
    It's a shame that BDop doesn't offer a silver hub, but honestly I like a loud hub when coasting.
    The Novatec isn't quiet by any means, but it isn't overly loud either...there are other distributors but I prefer BDop for these...

    "I tried being reasonable, I didn‘t like it."

    "I understand. I just don't care"

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht View Post
    I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

    The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

    The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.
    DS heads in would increase NDS tension.

  5. #30
    don't misunderestimate me BoSoxYacht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canam73 View Post
    DS heads in would increase NDS tension.
    Psimet, please chime in.

  6. #31
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    Oh crap. If Rob is coming I better clarify:

    Lacing the ds heads in will give you a marginally wider effective ds flange offset which will allow for slightly higher nds tension when the wheel is true and correctly dished.

    Note that I do not lace my own wheels this way as I prefer to 2x or 3x on both sides dependent on which gives a more tangent pulling spoke.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht View Post
    I thought that heads out would be better because it would help to increase NDS spoke tension. That's what I did on my build using Dati hubs which have even less NDS flange offset.

    The build I did(2xDS& radial heads out NDS)is plenty stiff for me.

    The other question I have about these hubs is the speed of freehub engagement. I love how quick the Dati hubs hook up because of the 51 teeth in the hub. I never had a problem with my old Neuvation wheels until I got used to the Dati hubs, but now they feel a bit slow to engage.
    Heads out on the NDS will increase NDS tension, but at the expense of a little stiffness. Heads in on the DS also increases NDS tension but with an overall increase in stiffness, not decrease. That would be a reason to prefer this latter method. It is hard to cross spokes with all the heads pointing the same way, unless the cross number is very low like 1X. If radial, then there is no problem to point all the heads on a side in one direction.

  8. #33
    I scream for ice cream. SkyeC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricanfred View Post
    Just had a very reputable local wheelbuilder build some Archetypes with these hubs and Sapim Lasers. Used 24R front and 28-2X(nds and ds) and I'm 165ish. He said he was very impressed with the quality and geometry of the hubs. Mentioned it was one of the best he has seen from unbranded Taiwanese hubs.
    i also built mine up with Archetypes, 28/32, and my builder was also impressed with them. That was coming from a guy that has been building wheels for decades and has been through a ton of fancy wheelsets.

  9. #34
    enginerd
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    I've built three sets personally for some of the household's bikes (all on archetypes - which also rock). Very nice hubs, unbeatable price and weight, decent color/drilling selection. It's hard to go for any other option at the price. Bikehubstore has also been quick to answer questions and help with any logistics issues.

    I'm running a 20/24H set on archetypes and I weigh 180. So far, so good. The 24/28H set I built last year has been issue-free even after a few spills.


    my bikes: http://fastwagon.blogspot.com/p/bike-gallery.html
    pedalroom: http://www.pedalroom.com/members/CrashTest

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