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New to deep carbon wheels. Need help understanding/eliminating noise

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Old 08-24-13, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gc3
Perhaps he does, since I saw no hint of "quotations" in your post....
Right. He was actually mistaken. There was no quotation, only a reference to the Odyssey.
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Old 08-24-13, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiro11
Tejay's TT rig from Vail... what's that I see around the front valvestem?
https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/...machine/277123
Dunno, but I would say it is a valve extender of some sort. Do you think it is a plastic sleeve to isolate the valve from the edge of the hole?
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Old 08-25-13, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Some are worse than others. Honestly the really low end cheap ones have that real hollow plastic sound almost like a plastic drum.
...because of the cheap polyester resins used...

Most cheap rims come from the Mainland, btw.
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Old 08-25-13, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Done and done. Rode this AM and no noise. Thanks again everyone for the advice.
Big thumb!
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Old 08-25-13, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Hiro11
You really don't need those, as others have said ( a couple of times) just pull an inch and a half long piece of electrical tape down over the valvestem so it pushes its way through and stick the ends to the rim. Tighter fit, costs nothing, black to match the rims. Problem solved.
I guarantee that electrical tape is not a tighter fit and it will come loose in the rain. It may be cheap but it looks that way, too.
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Old 08-25-13, 06:27 AM
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Robert,
If you get a chance, could you provide a brief review of your wheel build...supplier of the rims...spoke count, weight, type of hubs etc?
Lots of guys interested here in wheel building and inexpensive carbon wheels in particular. A mini review with a pic of a wheel would be most
informative.
Thanks
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Old 08-25-13, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Robert,
If you get a chance, could you provide a brief review of your wheel build...supplier of the rims...spoke count, weight, type of hubs etc?
Lots of guys interested here in wheel building and inexpensive carbon wheels in particular. A mini review with a pic of a wheel would be most
informative.
Thanks
C4L, I am happy to oblige, but am missing some information I'm sure you will think is important. First off, 50 mm deep rims, 20/24, C-X Ray spokes and alloy nipple, Bike Hub Store unbranded hubs (78 g wider model up front, 211 g model in rear, for 8,9, 10 speed, rear drilled 16:8), lacing radial front, 8 radial spokes NDS rear, 16 2X spokes DS rear. The problem is I know very little about the rims. They were a unnamed manufacturer's sample that a friend offered me at a good price. Kind of like buying sample size clothing and shoes from the salesman. Since I am treating them as mostly a show piece for special occasion rides (think wooden rims as an analogy), the specifics really didn't matter to me. No long downhills to worry about, although my friend assured me they are modern technology and high quality. Anyway the rims weigh about 500g apiece and are standard width, not 23 mm type. Weight for the pair of wheels sans rim tape and skewers is 1,490 g. Sorry I can't say more, but that is all I have. I had the decals made at www.carbonwheeldecals.com. Let me know if you have any other questions. Front wheel picture below:


I hope this helps.
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Old 08-25-13, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
I guarantee that electrical tape is not a tighter fit and it will come loose in the rain. It may be cheap but it looks that way, too.
I can testify to this statement...I bought the "valivinators"....they work...also, you don't have to replace them when you flat...nor does the inside one come off when you replace rim tape...
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Old 08-25-13, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gc3
I can testify to this statement...I bought the "valivinators"....they work...also, you don't have to replace them when you flat...nor does the inside one come off when you replace rim tape...
I had forgotten but was reminded when I opened up the tires to put on the electrical tape (waiting for the valvinators) that I had used spoke hole plugs instead of rim tape on these wheels. The lack of rim tape at the valve hole was likely an additional cause of the noise.
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Old 08-25-13, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
C4L, I am happy to oblige, but am missing some information I'm sure you will think is important. First off, 50 mm deep rims, 20/24, C-X Ray spokes and alloy nipple, Bike Hub Store unbranded hubs (78 g wider model up front, 211 g model in rear, for 8,9, 10 speed, rear drilled 16:8), lacing radial front, 8 radial spokes NDS rear, 16 2X spokes DS rear. The problem is I know very little about the rims. They were a unnamed manufacturer's sample that a friend offered me at a good price. Kind of like buying sample size clothing and shoes from the salesman. Since I am treating them as mostly a show piece for special occasion rides (think wooden rims as an analogy), the specifics really didn't matter to me. No long downhills to worry about, although my friend assured me they are modern technology and high quality. Anyway the rims weigh about 500g apiece and are standard width, not 23 mm type. Weight for the pair of wheels sans rim tape and skewers is 1,490 g. Sorry I can't say more, but that is all I have. I had the decals made at www.carbonwheeldecals.com. Let me know if you have any other questions. Front wheel picture below:


I hope this helps.
Nice review Robert. Thanks and congrats on your wheel and bike build.
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Old 08-25-13, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Dunno, but I would say it is a valve extender of some sort. Do you think it is a plastic sleeve to isolate the valve from the edge of the hole?
Sheesh. It's electrical tape.
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Old 08-25-13, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
I guarantee that electrical tape is not a tighter fit and it will come loose in the rain. It may be cheap but it looks that way, too.
OK. I've been using it for years without issue.
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Old 08-25-13, 12:43 PM
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The other thing I sometimes do is to take heat shrink tubing and shrink it around the valve stem so it doesn't clunk around. Looks cleaner than electrical tape and turns the valve stem black so it color matches a little better.
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Old 08-25-13, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
The other thing I sometimes do is to take heat shrink tubing and shrink it around the valve stem so it doesn't clunk around. Looks cleaner than electrical tape and turns the valve stem black so it color matches a little better.
That is a clever solution. Well done.
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Old 08-25-13, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
The other thing I sometimes do is to take heat shrink tubing and shrink it around the valve stem so it doesn't clunk around. Looks cleaner than electrical tape and turns the valve stem black so it color matches a little better.
Where do you get the tubing? How do you specify it?
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Old 08-25-13, 04:37 PM
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You can get it pretty much any store that sells anything remotely electronic, even amazon. There are usually 2 dimensions, 1 before, and 1 after shrinkage (huh huh). Just get a calipers and find out what size your valve stem is, get a pair of scissors and a hair dryer and voila!
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Old 08-25-13, 04:42 PM
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Not my picture, but winds up looking something like this:

I would have cut it a little longer to cover up more of the stem.
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Old 08-25-13, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
You can get it pretty much any store that sells anything remotely electronic, even amazon. There are usually 2 dimensions, 1 before, and 1 after shrinkage (huh huh). Just get a calipers and find out what size your valve stem is, get a pair of scissors and a hair dryer and voila!
And best place is on line versus Radio Shack that has a pretty limited selection. I have built a lot of electronic circuits and done a lot of wiring...cars, motorcycles etc and various sizes of heat shrink on hand is a must including a heat gun.
Great idea Silvercivic.
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Old 08-25-13, 04:49 PM
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Radio Shack sells those heat shrink tubing.
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Old 08-25-13, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
The other thing I sometimes do is to take heat shrink tubing and shrink it around the valve stem so it doesn't clunk around. Looks cleaner than electrical tape and turns the valve stem black so it color matches a little better.
I've done this as well. It's a good solution.

Another temporary solution is to cut a drinking straw to length and slide it over the valve stem. It doesn't look great and it will fall out eventually but it works in a pinch.
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Old 08-25-13, 05:58 PM
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Before. The hot air has a hard time getting between the hole and the stem to shrink the portion hidden by the rim.
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Old 08-25-13, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
You can get it pretty much any store that sells anything remotely electronic, even amazon. There are usually 2 dimensions, 1 before, and 1 after shrinkage (huh huh). Just get a calipers and find out what size your valve stem is, get a pair of scissors and a hair dryer and voila!
Thanks. Do you apply the tubing before or after mounting the tube on the wheel?
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Old 08-25-13, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Silvercivic27
Before. The hot air has a hard time getting between the hole and the stem to shrink the portion hidden by the rim.
The downside is that you have to do it to every tube you use. By making the solution part of the rim it is a one time, permanent solution.
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Old 08-25-13, 08:21 PM
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I guess. It takes about 3 seconds to do.
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Old 08-25-13, 08:36 PM
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Everybody has a right to be ghetto if that's what they want....
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