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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 09-22-13, 03:38 PM   #51
bikedoofus
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Are your brakes and levers matched?
They are same vintage Sora and 105, so as far as I know they should work fine together. Certainly they don't feel any different than the ultegra and dura ace matching setups I tried today.

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Another thing is that while people mention it: contaminated housing? When you say you get to the point of your hands hurting when you squeeze the brakes have you squeezed the levers all the way to the bars at that point? If not then definitely try replacing cables and housing. One thing I have seen on bikes where water is able to get trapped in a housing line is that the cable rusts and ends up making the whole system feel horrible. The other thing that could happen is that you could have a non-seated ferrule. If the end-point of your housing isn't seated against the shifter then you will definitely get crap braking performance.
All checked today, all fine. I did have a cable seated in the receiver of a cross lever without a ferule. I added one and ensured it was seated, but it made no noticeable difference. Stripping and cleaning cables and outers made things feel a little slicker but no difference in performance. I replaced the front brake cable but only because the old one frayed during the exercise. The cables were fine.
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Old 09-22-13, 04:26 PM   #52
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Ok, today I rode two other bikes back to back with mine, both recent trek madones, one complete ultegra and one complete dura ace and both very well serviced. There was some (small) difference in brake feel but no difference in braking power (this was in the dry). Whilst I was there I tried my dad's old trek cromoly fixed fork mtb with early V-brakes and this braked far better than any of the road bikes - both better feel and lower effort at the bar for equal stopping power - easy to endo and still not go over the bars. Tempting to think that this could be due to a larger contact patch but with all four bikes the limit of deceleration (this was dry) was the need to avoid going over the bars, not the need to stop the wheel locking.



I'm fast approaching the conclusion that calliper brakes (at least the sora-105, ultegra-ultegra and d.a.-d.a. brifter-calliper combinations that I've used) simply don't have the mechanical advantage to meet my personal expectations - at my weight - of braking performance in the wet.

Given that I know that mini-Vs have significantly greater mechanical advantage over callipers I'm tempted to think that this may be an option, but I also expect that a higher advantage with the same cable pull is likely to result in a on-off feel. I wouldn't want to upgrade fork and brakes only to have to do so again.

So, I'm also approaching the conclusion that if you're heavy, regularly ride fast in foul weather and want to know that you have plenty of power and modulation on tap regardless then discs might be the only way to go.

Thanks for your input folks, I will update again when it rains!

PS: This is Wales, so probably soon.
I know the Nashbar touring frame comes with cantis to put on V-brakes. Or, I believe some cyclocross frames can accommodate disc brakes.
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Old 09-23-13, 02:20 AM   #53
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I know the Nashbar touring frame comes with cantis to put on V-brakes. Or, I believe some cyclocross frames can accommodate disc brakes.
There seem to be lots around, but I'm not too worried about upgrading the back brake anyway. A new carbon disc fork can be had for £130, deore 32h disc front hub for £18, Avid BB7 for £55. Total £203. We'll see if it's needed...
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Old 09-23-13, 03:23 AM   #54
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I ride my CXer with discs when its raining/wet out, tried my CXer with mini V's & get a lot of brake chatter when its slightly damp.
Might be that my wheels/brake tracks aren't broken in yet or I need to fine tune the toe in on them.
I prefer my calipers over my V's while commuting, but on the trail the V's rule for me. The disc are best in rain, & snow.
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Old 04-13-14, 03:27 AM   #55
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Ok - problem solved! TRP Spyre, yokozuna cable, disk fork change. Significant advantage in the dry, no wet weather yet but will report back!
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Old 04-13-14, 04:30 AM   #56
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Hope it works for you. I know that the braking power of my Shimano Deore hydro discs and the dual pivots on my roadie (2300 sti/tectro calipers) are worlds apart. The mtb has way more braking power. In the wet its far better, in the dry its almost instant - but less modulation. This a flaw in the Deore range that got rectified in xt and better. In short, if it rains I ride my mtb. It will stop me fast from 30mph wet or dry. Difference between the duals pivots and the v brakes on my shopping/kid bike? Not much. V brakes bite a little sooner other than that they have about the same power. Both suck in the rain unless you dry the rim first. Coolstops made a big difference from the stock pads but still don't hold a candle to discs.
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Old 04-14-14, 07:46 AM   #57
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I set up my winter bike with mini-V's paired with 5600 105 brifters. Bike is a redline cross bike. I threw away the crappy pads that came with the mini-v's and put on kool stops salmon pads.
I think the braking is excellent and better than the Ultegra calipers w/swiss stop pads on my road bikes, particuliary the initial bite. The downside is that I have to deflate the tire to get it past the pads, mind you these are 35mm cross tires and a 23 or a 25mm tire would probably slide thru. that's my .03
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Old 05-23-14, 01:52 AM   #58
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Rode very wet with the disc - extremely happy. No noticeable difference from all the water. Conclusion - if you ride in the wet you need a disc at the front. Probably not at the back though.
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