dralways

Well, loss of your hands numbing is definitely a plus as my pinky finger sometimes goes numb after 4-5 hours in the saddle, but 4k for something that's likely just a minor adjustment/bar tape/glove issue? Hm.

I guess a simpler way of rolling all of the questions from my previous post into one is: After taking a step back and making a desperately honest, unbiased, unfanboyish (new word) assessment of your recent purchase and current stable, do you feel like you just flushed 4k down the toilet or are you HONESTLY happy with your decision, new-toy-syndrome aside?

Yes, it may be difficult to answer after just one ride, then again maybe not.

Long Tom

I know this after one ride: this is a SWEET bike.

As to the money, that's up to the individual. It's a chunk. Me personally, I didn't flush $4k (sic) down any stinkin' toilets....... I bought a really nice bike with it!

robbyville

You got it exactly right, it is about the engine ultimately, BUT if you're happier with your bike maybe you'll ride it more, and definitely the fatigue profile plays a role. If you feel better after a longer ride and you know this to be the case then you'll start to push yourself harder, or have some left in the tank for a virtual sprint or take on a friend. Having technically gone through 3 frames since Jan 1st I know this to be true. Also the comfort may help you to ride more often. This past June I did the same century as I usually do and my time while better than the year before (with more climbing and slightly better fitness but not a ton) was still pretty close to with the previous bike, but the next day I was able to ride 50 miles whereas the year before my body was beaten. I personally feel that was completely due to the comfort change between the previous year's more aggressive racing frame, and the current Domane that I ride.

Long Tom

To be VERY clear, I have (1) ride on it, @ 33 miles. My opinion is still largely unformed. It's really easy to kid yourself, or to stake out a mental position early then find yourself defending it. I don't want to do that.

But yes, my initial, preliminary take is that it felt fast, smooth, and awesome <g>! Finding out via Strava that I'd gone the same speed overall was a surprise, I won't lie, but it sure FELT faster and was a very fun ride. Since I'm not racing, and in fact am seeking out the challenging routes around me and (my friend would say) punishing myself on them, feel and fun are big players here. The more the better.

I don't ride on consecutive days..... usually.... so it'll be tomorrow or Saturday before I add more data points. In the meantime I'll hopefully get it into the LBS to get the RD properly set. It's a little annoying that they let it out the door so far "off".

Chandne

I actually am considering the other Kinlin rims too. I hadn't eaten, was still at the office waiting for a vendor, and tend to get a bit goofy when low on sugar. I have heard that Kinlins build up better than the Stan's but then have read the opposite. The 19w is probably not a very aero rim so it may be out now. A bit confusing, but will keep researching.

zvez

mine had the tick but it went away after a few hundred miles. That said, I put zipp 303s on it so not an issue anymore

robbyville

Funny how you mention more challenging routes. Once I decided to go with the comfort geometry and vibration dampening, then got a tubeless wheelset for winter riding and some gravel roads I now search out roads that I would not ordinarily ride on to make things interesting

On the Rear Derailleur, it's probably a simple adjustment, you mentioned that it was only with a few cogs up-shifting, so assuming it's not running into the spokes or off the smallest cog (high/low screws), then it's probably just cable tension. If it is clicking while up-shifting (harder to pedal), then your tension might be a tad high so simply lower the tension by turning the barrel adjuster (where the cable enters the derailleur), clockwise a quarter turn and see if that helps, or a little more. Hopefully that will fix it and save you the trip.

Long Tom

It's pretty much across the cassette, and yes, it's while upshifting (going from bigger rings to smaller).

Maybe I'll try it myself.... thanks for the clear explanation!

dralways

That fix is easier than opening a carton of milk. Like robby said, twist the RD barrel adjuster and you're done. It's the FD issues that sometimes get me. You'll want to learn to do this yourself because it'll need to be done (likely while you're out riding far away from LBS) several times in the first few thousand miles for a new bike with new cabling.

Looking forward to your further impressions.

Long Tom

Hopefully tomorrow! I'm at the mercy of a steel delivery truck; I have a 200-lb chunk showing up from PDX for a job, and I have to meet the truck in Eug to pick it up. Hopefully that'll be in the morning. Then I'll ride tomorrow afternoon.

robbyville

Good luck with the delivery! FYI the new front derailleur adjustments are a little more difficult than previous with the long arm frt der

zvez

wouldn't it be counterclockwise to reduce the tension? seems clockwise would lengthen/increase the cable tension/length?

robbyville

Not in this case since you are adjusting against the anchor bolt on the der. Clockwise would put the cable tension towards the der lessening tension, counter clockwise pulls the cable tight away from the der.

rpenmanparker 

A longer run of outer cable plus fittings tightens the inner cable, so look for the adjustment of the barrel screw to lengthen the assembly. You should be able to see the effect. Also you should count clicks so you can undo anything you do easily. It is easy to feel the tension in the inner cable. Just twist the barrel 4 clicks to either side and pluck the cable. You will feel the cable get tighter or looser. Then go back and do it again the other way. When you are sure of which way is which, start with two clicks lengthening/tightening and test the shifting affect. Keep adding clicks in that direction until shifting is perfect. You can always reverse it same number of clicks if you make a mistake or are adjusting the wrong way.

zvez

thanks!

Long Tom

Did 33 miles of climbing today... exhilarating... GREAT BIKE!

Long Tom

Ok, let me flesh it out a bit. Keep in mind I'm flying high after a great ride <g>.

Within the first hundred yards I was marveling how smooth it felt. Is it as smooth as a Felt 85? An older Roubaix? I have no idea. But it's smooth.

I tried to pay attention to me bum this time to assess the CG-R seatpost. I can't yet seperate the rear triangle from the seatpost in terms of what's absorbing what, but jolts and bumps are greatly softened by the time they get to the butt.

The front end is a little bumpier. Road buzz is pretty minimal, but things like cracks in the pavement come through.

I was able to turn it loose on some downhills this time and it's so much more precise than my Sequoia that its not even funny. No rear-end sway and wallow that I can feel. Really tracks great.

On climbs, it feels like power in = power out. No flex I can feel. A joy to climb with.

Per the advice above, I adjusted the nut on the RD and the up shifting was far better. I think it needs another click or two of adjustment, but I never wanted to stop to adjust it again.

With the disclaimer I am not broadly experienced with "nice bikes".... this is a really nice bike. Where it fits in a ranking of relative goodness, I have no idea.

Whew! Buzzing. Climbed my ass off today. Bettered my time from the other day by .2 mph!

robbyville

Yeeha! Good for you!

Campag4life

Curious if you have adjusted the tilt of the saddle to your liking? The reason I ask is...this is a peeve of mine...when Specialized created the cobble gobble seatpost they did so with a single bolt adjustment per their Pave post. I think the cobble post is outstanding for compliancy...make no mistake and even though the thing is a bit ugly it maybe the future...or ones similar to it with more refinement. But a single bolt post...most suck and why the overwhelming favorite among pros and good amateurs are 2 bolt posts....which btw Specialized also sells on many of their top bikes. So a huge disappointment that this new post with great compliance...it is supposed to displace up to 18mm on big hits...which is a lot...has only one bolt to keep the saddle in angular position front to back. The spec on the Pave post is 120 in-lbs for a small allen bolt...which is a bit of a disgrace really. That's 10 ft-lbs or about 50 lbs of hand force with a short allen wrench...ridiculous. Of course it takes that kind of torque to try to keep the post in place with a single bolt....because the joint relies purely on compression. One of the first things I did on my SL3 Roubaix was sell the Pave post after it slipped a couple of times over rough road when torqued to spec. I hope you have better luck keeping the cobble gobble in place.
Congrats on the bike....you seem to love it and what's not to like.
PS: one saving grace of the cobble post, maybe its compliancy. What I mean by that is..a rigid post with a single lateral bolt clamp will likely slip more readily on big hits versus a compliant post with give to take some of the brunt off the hit transferring to the joint. Has anybody seen the bolt torque spec for the cobble gobble? It is likely the same as the Pave post but was curious if anybody has seen the spec?

rpenmanparker 

Your comments about one-bolt seat post clamps are spot on. Two-bolt adjustment rules!

I was a long time fan of the old American Classic two-bolt posts. When I undertook to begin a total replacement/refurbishment of my bikes about five years ago, I was looking for a lowest weight carbon post, and the inexpensive and good looking Performance 150 g post became my standard. Unfortunately it was (now discontinued) a one-bolt design. Suffice it to say the toothed clamps for angle adjustments are starting to slip when I bounce on the saddle from taking a pot hole not very gracefully. Bummer. If the C-G post ever comes out in a two-bolt version, I will certainly need to consider it for my two remaining Performance posts. I do have one ultra light, two-bolt Thomson Masterpiece, and that is a thing of beauty and extreme functionality. But I'm sure it can't compete with the C-G for comfort.

dralways

This is what I was hoping to hear, sounds like money wwell spent now! Btw, I'm the same way when it comes to mid ride adjustments.. might do one if it's causing problems bad enough but otherwise I just deal with it till I get home heh. I ignore the adjustment even if making a pitstop for water.. ::shrugs::

Im assuming the weather isn't exactly warm where you live, how are you gearing up? I'm getting my winter gear shopping list together and have this lined up so far:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WOLFBIKE-Men...item51b458d906

or

https://www.amazon.com/Duofold-Weight...f=cts_ap_1_fbt

https://www.amazon.com/Duofold-Weight...rds=base+layer

plus


https://www.amazon.com/Under-Armour-M...pr_product_top

Not meaning to thread jack but it's going to be 20-30F for the next few months. Comments?

Campag4life

The clamp on a Thomson post is a model for many but that's where it ends for me. I prefer carbon and more adjustable setback and, perhaps most importantly, a measure of compliancy. The best post I have found which many top pros ride is the FSA K-Force Light...available in 0, 25 and 32mm setback. I own a couple and just a fantastic post...with a bit of give to it unlike the more rigid Thompson post...which btw isn't forged but rather CNC machined out of high grade Al. Thomson makes nice stuff and their clamp is outstanding but overall I believe their posts are a bit dated.
Will be interesting to see what the future holds. Specialized had a chance to hit a home run with their cobble gobble by making it 2 bolt but instead derived it from their crappy Pave post. Disappointing because the concept has great merit. Would love to see the performance data comparing a stiff rear triangle like the new SL4 Roubaix has and a cobble post versus a softer rear triangle with stiffer post. At the end of the day, Specialized may have gotten the scenario just right...a bike will have more performance with a stiff rear triangle for energy transfer and best to isolate compliancy locally in the seat post versus the entire rear triangle. They just muffed the execution of the suspension post a bit.

f4rrest

Agreed. I just picked one up due to it's highly rated dampening. And I can feel a distinct improvement versus the stock Specialized alloy post it replaced. It was 100gm lighter as well.

Campag4life

A great post for sure. FSA nailed the design. Will see if an innovative company like FSA can delve into the genre of suspension posts like Specialized has only with a more elegant and robust design like they have for their K-force light with two bolt retention and micro adjustability.

As to the future of suspension posts and stiff rear triangle bikes like the Roubaix SL4, the future will be dotted I believe with different solutions. Trek rivals Specialized for R&D prowess..or close and their Domane is a home run bike in the performance endurance genre...having the benefit of benchmarking off of the Roubaix which invented the genre. I would love to spend some time on a Domane and see if it really is as good if not better than my Roubaix SL3. What Trek has done is extremely clever. An elastomer joint that pivots absorbs the hard hit of the frame without the ugliness of the cobble gobble. It maybe even more effective and tunable by changing the modulus of the elastomer insert. This design is no joke and it works. Further, the Domane rear triangle is said to be as laterally stiff as the Madone and the bike gives up nothing in performance to Trek's fastest steed and is preferred by some pros to the Madone. So this design approach maybe even better than trying to isolate all compliance in a seat post...if the rear triangle can be allowed to toggle vertically and yet be stiff enough to transmit crank power to rear wheel efficiently.

copswithguns

This is my experience as well. It should dissipate after a period of time. I've heard it on Mavic wheels too.