scottatl

I like the Specialized bikes, but they only go up to 58 cm. I am 6 ' 4 " and have an inseam of 33 (measured for pants).

I like the Specialized more then the trek i tried, but the trek has 60 cm.

the LBS said 58 would be a good fit if adjusted right.

is he blowing smoke?

I am a beginner, so getting a good feel from a short test ride will not get me what I need

Bruce Lowekamp

Picking two Specialized bikes at random, the Allez Sport Triple and Roubaix come in 62. (The Sequoia comes in XL. Great idea.) Have you checked the specialized website to make sure your LBS knows what they're talking about?

Bruce

Retro Grouch 

I think that using the seat tube as the do-all measurement for bike sizing is dumb. The easiest adjustment to make on a bicycle is seat height. Why would you use the easiest thing on the whole bicycle to change as the decision maker?

To me top tube length and handlebar height are the biggies. Be sure to measure top tube length in a horizontal line from the centerline of head tube to the centerline of the seat tube or seat post. After I determine my correct seat height I measure from the top of the saddle and the top of the handlebars to the floor to determine handlebar height relative to the saddle.

I suspect that if you go through that process you will find the 58cm Specialized to be comparable.

scottatl

I did know that it came in 62, which they said would be to big.

thanks for the tips

JT354

I think your LBS may be sizing you based on the size of their inventory. I'm 5'10'' and my LBS said I should ride a 55 or 57, so I don't know if a 58 would be right for you considering that you are 6 inches taller than me. The Allez, for instance, also comes in size 60, which in my opinion would probably be the right size for you.

motorhommmer

Top tube lenght is all important. I am 6 foot but sixz is a 54 as my arms are slightlyu shorter than norm. I had a 56 tourer but it nearly killed me.

Retro Grouch 

Well, 55 or 57 might right to me based on traditional frame geometry, but on a compact it would probably be too big. That's why I say that seat tube length isn't the single best measurement to use. Another thing that happens is that some salespeople are still tuned into sizing people by using standover height which seems really crazy to me.

I'll stand by my earlier statement that if you think more about where the handlebars are positioned relative to the seat you'll be in good shape.

slvoid

When in doubt, go to another LBS and get a second opinion.

skydive69

I love Specialized bikes - I own two of them, but proper fit is vital. You might want to look at a Guru. Although they come in standard sizes, they will also custom make the bike (Guru started in the business making custom bicycles), for only $100 more than standard. Guru dealers have a sheet on which they place certain measurements, and send them to Guru. Guru likes to make sizing decisions. I ride a 56 cm Specialized (5' 11"), and the closest the Guru has is either 55 or 57. It turned out that with my particular measurements, they are going to make a combination of the two. I have never seen bikes with such incredible fit and finish. Everything is hand painted - no decals. Anyway, that is something you might want to consider.

Oh, and yes, most LBS fittings are crap - their bleating to the contrary notwithstanding. I had the typical LBS fitting when I purchased my Roubaix. Recently, I had a "real" two hour fitting, including use of video, etc. The LBS fitting was not even close. I immediately (on the next ride) solved my knee pain issues, and I was so much more powerful on the bike, and started winning sprints on club rides. Fortunately, we have a place in St. Petersburg that serious competitors come to from near and far to have professional bike fittings, and I got a fitting as an xmas present.

Waterbouy3

There some good LBS bike size-ers and fitters ans some not so good. Check www.serotta.com check for a Serotta 'advanced fitter' in your area. On your own go to www.competitivecyclist.com and use there fit calculator. This a good reference fir getting a frame correct.

miater

i like Klein's attitude about fitting - it all comes down to 3 points - where the pedals are - where the seat is , and where the handle bar is

if you can get those points where you want them how you get there doesn't matter a whole lot.

within reason of course

OrionKhan

I'm 6' 3/4" and ride a 58" Allez Comp. My inseam is a about the same as yours. So the 58" might not be bad for you. But you may want a longer stem. I use a 100mm -8 degree on mine. However, I don't like a "stretched" out position.

You should see if you can find a shop that has a Specialized 60" to try out the difference. Seems like a 60 should be the right size.

Rob944

I am 6'3, 34 inch inseam and ride a 61 Specialized Sequoia Elite. Sounds like you need a new shop and a better opinion. Ride a few and see how they feel to you. Good luck!

Speedybird

I'm 5'11" and ride a 56cm Specialized Roubaix.
Ironically, I have a twin brother that is on a 58cm Bianchi. We're not in the same town and have had independent fittings.

badsac

For what it's worth I'm 5'10" and ride a 54cm Roubaix. 56cm was way to big.

djbrod

I'm 6'1" and have a 34.5" inseam and ride a 60cm. 33" inseam for 6'4" just seems awful short. This is probably where they're getting the smaller frame size from.

I agree that other measurments are important but remember that if a seat tube is too long the seat won't be able to be lowered enough to compensate.

twbradford

Im 5'8.5" and they tried to put me on a 54 roubaix. Even though I complained
about feeling like I am stretching too far. Then he said they would cut back on the stem but I knew it was the top tube. I normally feel comfortable on a smallish frame then a bigger frame. Well they were trying to get rid of that 04 54cm model and I didn't want to spend 3000.00 on a 05.

You have to get an objective opinion by getting a fit from an online source which will put you in the ballpark or by a pro-fit which will be the best for someone spending a lot of money on a bike, getting into racing or if you have physical issues like an injury or pain.

I am going to pay for my wife to get fit because of her neck problems.

"If the bike doesn't fit...you must quit!"

scottatl

well, I went back to the bike shop and this time talked to another guy who really seamed to have my best interest in mind. He actually talked me down from a more expensive bike and I ended up with the Trek 1000 60cm

He said if I ride a lot and want to upgrade in one year I will be better able to pick out what I want and should have no problem selling the bike for $300 to $400 bucks. So it would only be $200 bucks to get into the sport. And who knows, I might think this bike is all I want for a number of years.

This shop also gives free adjustments for life.

Black Bud

For those who may still be looking for a new bike:


Gary Fisher includes, in his geometry charts, a measurement called the "cockpit", which is the distance from the center of the seat tube to the center of the handlebars.

IMHO, this is a critical measurement, especially on compact frames! If you CANNOT comfortably reach the handlebars, OR the cockpit measurement is TOO short, you'll be uncomfortable, at best. Control over the bike will also suffer. You may even, if the cockpit reach istoo long, find it is hard to get your feet on the pedals (You will have trouble getting them high enough to actually get to the platform...no kidding!! I have had that problem with my Haro Escape, which has turned out to be a bit too long in the cockpit.)

Seat tube lengths are NOT USEFUL for determining bike size!! I ride bikes with seat tubes from 47 cm (17") to 54 cm !! I can handle any of those bikes COMFORTABLY, as long as the COCKPIT measurement has been adjusted correctly !!

Fortunately, this measurement is, as those of you who have had professional bike fittings can attest, somewhat adjustable by changes in the stem height and/or length, and, in some cases, the configuration of the seat post (set back post (shaft) , center clamp, setback clamp...). And, perhaps, even by changes in the handlebar!!

adam18

I am 6'4" tall, with a 34.5" inseam, and am being fitted for a 62 cm
Specialized Roubaix (2005 base road model) by my LBS.

The LBS guy who is doing my fitting is a certified Serotta fitter, who
really seems to know his stuff, and he says that the 62 cm. Roubaix
is perfect for me...........GOOD LUCK with your new bike.

Al1943

You may be comparing apples to oranges. Last time I checked Specialized road frames were measured c-c on a traditional frame, and my 56 Trek (c-t) was the same height as my son's 52 (c-c) Specialized Allez.

Al

halfspeed

That seat tube length has been considered a significant part of sizing for many decades is not simply an accident of history. Length of the cockpit is only one dimension of the =fit= of the cockpit. The other dimension being saddle to handlebar drop. Seat tube length significantly affects the latter. Saddle height is a constant related to leg length. The longer the seat tube, the closer the height of the bars to that of the saddle. Since the effective cockpit length can be modified by stem length while the length of the seat tube can't be changed, seat tube length is as important as top tube length. Remember, saddle height is unchangeable without radical modifications to the rider.

Confusing the issue are compact frames and whether the seat tube is measured center to center or center to top. Thus, the temptation to go by top tube length and ignore seat tube length. What would be interesting would be manufacturer specs for cockpit length and saddle/bar drop with a specified stem and a range of saddle heights at each size.

my58vw

Ok my turn with bike fit issues... attached is a photo and I will talk about fit from the photo.

(Yes that is me, and yes I am not wearing a helmet, please do not remind me, I had just gotten back from a 40 mile ride and chucked the gloves, arm warmers and helmet then do a warmdown in the street with absolutly no cars)

I have a hard time getting a bike that fits. Yesterday I rode a specilized reubiax and found it extremely way too small in the 62 cm. I am 6'6" and the seat tube] was the wrong length. Look at my 63 cm trek (one of the larger 63 cm, second to cannondale) and look at how high my seat post is and how high the saddle is. Now notice the handlebars (ignore myself in the drops). I have the stem inverted but the handlebars are several inches below the saddle. I also do not have long arms at all so seat tube length is an important factor. Many bike manufactures do not give you the generous spacers on the fork to raise the stem up, imagine my bike with no or only one spacer... not ridable. I find that the issue is for some people that have substantially longer legs than arms (like me), a frame that would fit well if we were normal proportions would have too short of a seat post.

No formula can say exactly what frame size you need. If you have the money go get a pro fit and buy based on that. If you can not just relize that if your stem is low for you now imagine how it will be after a 4 hour ride, etc. Case in point if you have to get a longer seat post than the bike frame may be too small.

Final point, just go out and ride the bike, if you like the fit then get it. Unless the seat post is too low you can almost not go wrong with a size up bike for some situations...

jazzy_cyclist

SD69 -- can you describe in more detail what is different between the LBS fitting versus "real" fitting? I've read so many conflicting things on fittings that it's sounding like black magic to me.

slider

I can tell you from my perspective. I do a lot of "bike shop fittings", although I don't think mine are "crap". They are not a $200 fitting, however. At the bike shop we fit a lot of people who are purchasing their first road bike. We put them on a trainer, have them warm up a bit and then set their seat height, fore/aft position (with a plum bob) and handlebar position. Although I'll watch them ride a bit, most of these things are set statically using rules of thumb. What I aim for is a middle of the road, healthy fit. Whether they pedal heels up or heels down, have a tendancy to slide forward or backward on their seat when riding under load and many others factors can affect the fitting but very seldom do I have the time or ability to take this into account during a free fitting provided with a new bike. Most of the riders I fit do not have a developed riding style and even so, on the trainer in the store, are likely pedaling differently than they would out on the road. I tell the customer to come back if something isn't working for them and we can tinker with their fit based on their feedback. Once again the goal is simply a healthy neutral fit.

If you are paying someone $200 for a fit, they should spend hours with you, using specialized tools to measure your body and bike geometry. They should do a dynamic fit by watching you as you ride under various loads both fresh and fatigued. At the end of the fitting you should leave with a set of measurements which can be used to reproduce your correct fit on any bike. Unless you are in pain, I don't think a fit of this level is worth the money until you have enough miles on you to have developed a reproduceable and tuneable riding style. Otherwise the fit may work one week and be wrong the next week as your riding style morphs and/ or you become fitter.

-s