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  1. #1
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    Windsor Wellington 3.0 Frame Set vs Vintage Fuji Absolute 4130 chromoly frame

    Hey folks new here to BF but I'm relatively experienced with bike repair. I have decided it's time to build my own commuter from scratch. I don't know that much about frames so I need a bit of help. these are two current options I have and would like pro/cons of each. I will put the same components on either frame so the difference comes down to the mid 80's Fuji absolute for $140 or the Windsor Wellington 3.0 for $190. My default is to the Fuji 'cause of the vintage aspect and I don't like aluminum frames quite as much. That being said the ride difference isn't too huge for me. I'm not going on long rides with my commuter, 10 miles at most. What do y'all think are either of these two even worth it at the price point (prices include shipping)? both include their stock fork.

    What do y'all think of these frames?

  2. #2
    South Carolina Ed
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    I'd be surprised if the Wellington frame doesn't give a smoother ride. I have a Windsor Fens which has a similar if not the same frame and it has a very smooth ride. The CF fork and long wheelbase probably help a lot. I also have two steel bikes, one a 93 Viner and the other a 73 Holdsworth, both high end racing bikes that bracket the Fuji age wise. The Fuji will know doubt get the job done too and brings the qualities and aesthetics of steel, but the bad rep of current aluminum and hype of steel are from my experience unfounded.
    Last edited by sced; 02-18-14 at 05:04 AM.

  3. #3
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    You have not said whether the Fuji is new, old stock (NOS) or used. If new, by all means go with the Fuji. Fujis of that era were beautifully built and finished with lovely lugs, neat brazing, and very attractive paint. The Windsor frame (I have built one up for a friend) is competent, but certainly crude and heavy with bulky welds and funky tube shapes. If the Fuji is used, then the call is a little closer. In that case you will have to factor in the condition. Unless the Fuji is in less than very good condition, I would lean heavily toward it. For me the Windsor is a bottom level choice. With the Fuji you have the chance to get something really very nice for a bargain price. I think I would go with the Fuji even if I had to have it powder coated (with the loss of the decals) for another $100. My experience with Fujis of that era is THAT positive.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  4. #4
    Senior Member rebel1916's Avatar
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    I had a wellington, it's a great bike for the price, but the frame is not worth $190. Get a Nashbar frame for half that.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    You have not said whether the Fuji is new, old stock (NOS) or used...I think I would go with the Fuji even if I had to have it powder coated (with the loss of the decals) for another $100. My experience with Fujis of that era is THAT positive.
    The Fuji is used but I am planning on powder coating either frame. the other issue with the Windsor is getting the carbon fork to match the frame after painting, with the Fuji it will match no problem.

  6. #6
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    Powder coating carbon is not so easy. I am pretty sure an electrically conductive primer is required to take the powder coating. If you powder coat the Windsor, you would be wise to not do the carbon fork.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel1916 View Post
    I had a wellington, it's a great bike for the price, but the frame is not worth $190. Get a Nashbar frame for half that.
    Most of the time the Nashbar frames that cheap are Windsor equivalents, made in the same factory and with the same sizing chart.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  8. #8
    Senior Member rebel1916's Avatar
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    Yeah, but you can get a Nashbar road frame for way under a hundy when they run 20% off. Assuming the Wellington is the same quality, why pay twice as much.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel1916 View Post
    Yeah, but you can get a Nashbar road frame for way under a hundy when they run 20% off. Assuming the Wellington is the same quality, why pay twice as much.
    I agree. Was making the same point.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  10. #10
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    So I don't have a model number but I have this picture of the frame: this fuji is made out of 4130 chromoly.
    any guess at the frame weight? Model?

    $T2eC16FHJHwFG18Me!8)BSQKEK(67Q~~60_57.jpg
    Last edited by lil_king; 02-18-14 at 12:38 PM. Reason: additional info

  11. #11
    Senior Member RollCNY's Avatar
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    If that is the right size, I would definitely look at the Nashbar Alum/Carbon frame for regular $170, frequently 20% off. They only have it in 60 cm, but I own one and it is a great, comfortable frame. It would not have fender clearance, which may be a show stopper, but it is way worth $136 plus shipping. I owned both the full Alum and this half/half frame, and the difference between the two is shocking. The other plus is you can powder coat the alum portion, and fold an unpainted gloss carbon fork and the carpet will match the drapes, if you know what I mean.

    I am 6'3" and ride it in a 58 cm. For what it is worth, the 58 weighs 3.25 lbs.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lil_king View Post
    So I don't have a model number but I have this picture of the frame: this fuji is made out of 4130 chromoly.
    any guess at the frame weight? Model?

    $T2eC16FHJHwFG18Me!8)BSQKEK(67Q~~60_57.jpg
    In that size including fork I would say about 7.0 lb maybe as little as 6.5, but unlikely. The fork is probably 1.5-1.75 lb, and the frame is likely pushing 5.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  13. #13
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    80's Fuji's are sweet. My '88 Fuji rides smoother than my '10 aluminum/carbon fork cross bike (performance Scattante house brand made by modern Fuji ironically). I have no plans to ever get rid of it.
    2012 Pinarello FP Due,2010 Scattante X-330(Cyclocross),1988 Fuji Sagres SP (Road Bike)

  14. #14
    Senior Member zazenzach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RollCNY View Post

    I am 6'3" and ride it in a 58 cm. For what it is worth, the 58 weighs 3.25 lbs.
    post a picture of your bike. you must have loads of seatpost showing.

    I'm 6'1 and I can barely fit onto a 58.5cm frame. i ride normally a 61-62cm and even ride/own a 63.5cm

  15. #15
    Senior Member rebel1916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazenzach View Post
    post a picture of your bike. you must have loads of seatpost showing.

    I'm 6'1 and I can barely fit onto a 58.5cm frame. i ride normally a 61-62cm and even ride/own a 63.5cm
    But you must admit you are an outlier. I am 6 even and I ride a 56. Which is pretty standard.

  16. #16
    Senior Member RollCNY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazenzach View Post
    post a picture of your bike. you must have loads of seatpost showing.

    I'm 6'1 and I can barely fit onto a 58.5cm frame. i ride normally a 61-62cm and even ride/own a 63.5cm
    My kid has my camera in Florida, but I can post some next week. On a compact geometry frame, I have a lot of seat post showing. On a horizontal top tube frame, like the Nashbar 58 I referenced, I have 5.5" from saddle rails to seat post collar. It doesn't look a lot to me.

    I built up a 60 cm DT shifter frame last winter, and it used pressed in headset. I had probably 4" of exposed seat post, but couldn't get the bars low enough. Short legs, long torso, long arms. I gave the bike to my brother who is 6'6", and it is really too small for him. He is long legs, short torso. So the seat went up a great deal, and I lengthened the stem (110 to 130), but really couldn't get the bars high enough. But he was coming from a 1981 Puch 63 or 64 cm, so even though he liked the old fit, he loves the improvements on the Nashbar and has adapted.

    EDIT: forgot to make my point. Height alone doesn't mean crap for fit.

  17. #17
    Senior Member zazenzach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel1916 View Post
    But you must admit you are an outlier. I am 6 even and I ride a 56. Which is pretty standard.
    hmmm...very strange. when you talk about measurements, are you talking about CTC or CTT?

    i am normally proportioned, so i think its a little strange that i would be an outlier. 61-62 CTT seems very reasonable for someone of my height.

  18. #18
    Senior Member zazenzach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RollCNY View Post

    EDIT: forgot to make my point. Height alone doesn't mean crap for fit.
    you're right, of course. and 5.5" of seatpost sounds very reasonable. i still would pay a million internet dollars to see a picture of you on a 58cm though.

    heres a picture of my 58.5 cm all set up for me. and again, im only 6'1. try to overlook the horrible picture- its from a few years ago when i first got it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #19
    Senior Member RollCNY's Avatar
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    Please make internet checks payable to.... Bike is a flat bar build. When I first started riding again, a badly healed 20 year old collar bone injury prevented me from using road levers or drops, in that if I turned my hand to line up with either drops or hoods, my right shoulder would buckle.

    ididaride2012.JPG

    This is not the bike in the photo, but is a Nashbar all aluminum frame in 58 cm. Set up for me, but saddle was a titch low (and nose up) in the photo.

    IMG_0446.jpg

    This is the bike from the photo, Nashbar frame with carbon rear, size 58. This is the saddle height that I rode for thousands of miles.

    IMG_0468.jpg

    This is the 60 cm DT shifter Nashbar. See how little saddle to bar drop. This was not flipped or slammed, but even flipped and slammed I couldn't get there.

    IMG_0501.jpg

    This is my current daily driver, set up exactly as it is ridden. That is a 58 cm Felt. No pictures of me on it though.

    IMG_0546.jpg

  20. #20
    Senior Member zazenzach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RollCNY View Post
    Please make internet checks payable to....
    WOW. well you fit. my mind is still blown though.

  21. #21
    Senior Member rebel1916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zazenzach View Post
    hmmm...very strange. when you talk about measurements, are you talking about CTC or CTT?

    i am normally proportioned, so i think its a little strange that i would be an outlier. 61-62 CTT seems very reasonable for someone of my height.
    Every frame maker's sizes are a little different. I have never seen a modern 56 that I couldn't easily fit. When I said outlier, I meant that you preferred a larger frame than most people your size. Which is fine. but you are a little outside the mainstream on sizing. As Roll is going the other way. I wouldn't be surprised if his preference for flatbars and your apparent preference for vintage was a big part of the reason.

  22. #22
    Senior Member halfspeed's Avatar
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    "Frame size" is crap and sizing by height is absurd. I've ridden everything from a 56 to a 63 with essentially the same fit and I'm 6 feet even.
    Telemachus has, indeed, sneezed.

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