I just use glue because it's much cheaper
I just use glue because it's much cheaper
I guess if I were gluing many sets of wheels, as in a team mechanic, I would probably have a container of mastic and a brush and just bang them out, one after another. But I have only my one set of tubulars, which I use to ride all the time but now they are my B wheels, and changing tires maybe once a year, Tufo tape is easier to use and I can right them immediately.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
I've been gluing tubulars for decades with decent success, although, there was a learning curve. I tried the Tufo tape once just to check it out. I regularly use Veloflex tires but have tried many other brands. My tape installation was pretty straight forward but somehow I managed to suffer an intolerable execution. At one spot on the rim the tire would make a crunching or ripping sound as it rotated. The tape was not uniformly adhered. I tried repairing the install but never eliminated the problem. I' m sure the cause was my poor installation skills but I've since stuck with glue.
Never had the problem you encountered with the tape.
When you break it down the tape is just 2 thin layers of glue impregnated loose weave fabric and then a layer of extruded glue, in effect 3 layers of glue
The glue layers are a different composition probably to aid adhesion to either the rim or the cotton backing tape
Last edited by kleng; 02-21-14 at 07:30 PM.
I'd be willing to try again using your method. I'll have to wear out one of my tires first. Maybe in the fall.
Takes a few minutes instead of hours/days with a knife/tire lever. We always have tons to glue and Re-glue from flats so we have to get it done quick and well. People keep using us because of the end results and the reputation so while we have to get it done quickly we can't afford to ever have one roll. Ever.
I'm new to using tubular tires, but after careful research, I bought a set of Vittoria Corsa EVO CX III tires for road racing. I was very careful in following the instructions for gluing (using Mastik) and mounting, paying particular attention to tread direction. However, I just discoverd that, despite my careful attention, I mounted the rear tire backwards. Will it really matter? Do I need to un-glu, dismount the tire and remount it in the correct direction? I am hoping I can get away with it and not suffer any negative consequences. My first race in this Sunday.
It will make no difference at all. I've accidentally done that before and have never noticed any difference. If you're happy with the glue job, don't bother taking off the tire and regluing.
I've done that a few times. The OCD part of me made me redo the tire, sometimes after a race or two, but for the standard herringbone tread there's so little effect with the tread that it won't make a difference. It's not like a car tire where it has to excavate water out from under the tire's contact patch. There's a formula for determining when a tire will hydroplane and for a road tire at 100 psi it's about 90-100 mph (it's related to psi).
To put things in perspective I've laced up a wheel, realized the rim is facing the wrong way relative to the hub, and undid it. I've also made the cross in the wrong place and relaced the wheel so the crosses line up with the valve or go across the rim seam, whatever my goal was for that particular wheel.
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
+3 - that rotation indicator is based on the "tread" and honestly that tread for the contact patch size is actually a non-thing.
The official word from a Vittoria rep I talked to today said, not only does it not matter, but many pros run the rear tire backward intentionally. It provides better traction for acceleration, sprinting, whole-shotting, and even a little more on corners. It might take an extra watt per mile though He also advised NOT to do it with the front, even though there's no diff in tire construction (plies). It would just be too non-aero in the front and just a tad too much drag, but the rear is perfectly fine and even advisable for Cavendish and Sagan types
So in a sense, it turns out my mistake is actually a preferred thing for many pros. However, I am not a sprinter. I'm a climber. Oh well... after a few races, they'll practically be slicks anyway