Is the price of entry really $2k?!?
#26
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OP...another +1 to many of the comments here, and I'm also in the Bay Area (Fremont). Check out Performance Bike, especially as they're clearancing many 2013 bikes. It's always nice to have a shop help with sizing to get things right so you're comfortable. As you learn more and more and fitment (if you decide to learn), you'll be able to take care of more things on your own and buying used will be much easier.
Now speaking of used, you can definitely get some good aluminum frame road bikes with 105 components for ~$700-800 used. Perfect example...I'll be selling my 2013 Trek Madone 2.1 for about $800 in a few weeks after I build up my new bike around the frame I bought. That's an excellent value bike on the used size, good performer, good components. I bought and sold my previous 2011 Trek Alpha 2.1 for about $750 a year ago...similar bike with 105 components as well. If you need a 58cm size bike, hit me up. There is also a shop in Redwood City that's always posting GREAT deals on new bikes, usually 1-2 year old models that are brand new. Haven't been over there yet, but they have some very nice bikes as well as good sub-$1000 bikes. And you get the backing of a shop for warranty, tuning, etc.
Now speaking of used, you can definitely get some good aluminum frame road bikes with 105 components for ~$700-800 used. Perfect example...I'll be selling my 2013 Trek Madone 2.1 for about $800 in a few weeks after I build up my new bike around the frame I bought. That's an excellent value bike on the used size, good performer, good components. I bought and sold my previous 2011 Trek Alpha 2.1 for about $750 a year ago...similar bike with 105 components as well. If you need a 58cm size bike, hit me up. There is also a shop in Redwood City that's always posting GREAT deals on new bikes, usually 1-2 year old models that are brand new. Haven't been over there yet, but they have some very nice bikes as well as good sub-$1000 bikes. And you get the backing of a shop for warranty, tuning, etc.
#27
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I always suggest going cheap first. As others have suggested, you can get a pretty good bike for about $700. Trust me, a good $700 bike won't hold you back.
Get the miles in, figure out what type of riding you like best, and learn what you like and don't like about that $700 bike. Eventually you'll want to upgrade (want, not need) and you'll be in a better position to know how to spend that $2,000. Keep the old $700 bike as a backup/bad weather bike/commuter bike.
My bike is old, aluminum, and has mid-level components. If I tried to sell it I'd never get even $700 out of it. I've been dropped a lot of times, but it's never been because of my bike.
Get the miles in, figure out what type of riding you like best, and learn what you like and don't like about that $700 bike. Eventually you'll want to upgrade (want, not need) and you'll be in a better position to know how to spend that $2,000. Keep the old $700 bike as a backup/bad weather bike/commuter bike.
My bike is old, aluminum, and has mid-level components. If I tried to sell it I'd never get even $700 out of it. I've been dropped a lot of times, but it's never been because of my bike.
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No crashes, no falls...shoot, not sure I've even laid the thing down on the ground once. I guess I better get 2 more posts in to hit 50 ;-)
#29
High Plains Luddite
But my goodness, all that other stuff really adds up! I haven't bought any of it yet, but have priced it all. When I ride my MTB, I just wear whatever shorts and tee-shirt and sneakers I happen to have on that day. That will work for a while, I guess, on the road bike until I start riding longer distances - so far have just done a couple short rides in the neighborhood on platform pedals wearing baggy cotton shorts to get the feel of the thing and learn how brifters work.
I tend to do without things that seems like fluff and luxury in general, but I can imagine the benefits of cycling-specific clothing. If nothing else, I won't have chain marks on my jeans legs.
Good luck to the OP from another road bike newbie.
#30
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There are plenty of bikes new in the $700 range, such as the base model Specialized Allez.
Most will have pretty heavy wheels, and low-end components, such as Shimano 2400 or Sora.
Functionally, it will all work, and I've known lots of people who have gotten very far on such bikes. If this is what your budget can support, then go for it.
Most will have pretty heavy wheels, and low-end components, such as Shimano 2400 or Sora.
Functionally, it will all work, and I've known lots of people who have gotten very far on such bikes. If this is what your budget can support, then go for it.
#31
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#32
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My first road bike was $350 used. Second (current) one was $1,000 built up new from a used frame. Now, if you add up all of the other bike related stuff that I have purchased that dollar amount jumps. Quickly.
#33
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I bought a bike from bikesdirect for $400 back in 2007. I rode it for a little over a year. It wasn't a bad bike, 22lbs or so with Sora components. I didn't mind riding it and got a good workout. The shifting wasn't perfect and the ride was a bit harsh. I then bought a $2000 carbon fiber bike with Force components in early 2008. It has been an absolutely stunning bike. I have really enjoyed the SRAM shifting, and the frame is so much more comfortable. Vanity wise, it's so much better to look at also. I can safely say I have ridden more miles on this bike than I would have on the cheaper bike. It just does it for me.
It has now been 72 months since I purchased this bike. I keep looking and lusting at new bikes and will probably get a replacement in the next year or two. But, just looking at the exposed carbon weave of my 6 year old wonderbike still does it for me - much less the joy I get riding it. Even with maintenance costs, I am currently looking at a great bike that has cost me, averaged out over the years, $33-35 per month to ride. Once you find "THE BIKE", even if it IS $2000 (or $5K, or even $10K) it will be a good buy if it gets you motivated to ride and stick with it.
It has now been 72 months since I purchased this bike. I keep looking and lusting at new bikes and will probably get a replacement in the next year or two. But, just looking at the exposed carbon weave of my 6 year old wonderbike still does it for me - much less the joy I get riding it. Even with maintenance costs, I am currently looking at a great bike that has cost me, averaged out over the years, $33-35 per month to ride. Once you find "THE BIKE", even if it IS $2000 (or $5K, or even $10K) it will be a good buy if it gets you motivated to ride and stick with it.
#34
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Get yourself an inexpensive bike from BD or performance. After you start racking up miles on it a more expensive bike won't seem as crazy. Buy yourself a really nice set of wheels that will likely cost more than that bargain basement bike. Ride it some more - the wheels and tires will make a difference. Develop a sense of geometry - how you like things set up. Then go buy yourself a nice bike without wheels, pedals, and saddle and move your favorites over to the new ride.
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I bought the base level Allez last year and I love it. Granted my bike has the shimano 2400 group set (not that great) but I'm happy with it for now. I just started cycling 5 months ago and I've been riding the hell out of my bike for recreational purpose only. Once I've graduated, maybe I'll invest in a 105 set bike.
#36
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Lord no, $2K is over the top if we're talking about the "price of entry". For five or six hundred you can get a road bike that is practically identical functionally - I mean one that rolls fine, shifts gears, feels great and isn't holding you back, the differences being apparent at the extremes of physical performance.
I'll even go out on a limb (for this group) and say categorically that Sora level is fine for an entry level bike. For some parts, there's no problem going below Sora. I think if we don't get hung up on the model of the group set components it opens up a lot of options for decent bikes at good prices. Personally, I'd look at Bikes Direct and Nashbar.
I'll even go out on a limb (for this group) and say categorically that Sora level is fine for an entry level bike. For some parts, there's no problem going below Sora. I think if we don't get hung up on the model of the group set components it opens up a lot of options for decent bikes at good prices. Personally, I'd look at Bikes Direct and Nashbar.
#37
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You can get an entry level road bike for around $700 or $800, around $900 to $1,000 for the next step up. That is full retail at a LBS. Don't know what you are looking to do. For sure, you can get a fine bike for $2,000, but that isn't entry level.
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I test rode a trek 2.1 a few years back and it was absolutely fabulous. Would've bought it but I waited a bit too long and someone else snagged it.
Am looking into getting a new road bike this year, though.
#39
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This is a nice bike with 10 speed Tiagra for $749, if your local store doesn't have it you can ship it to the store.
GT Attack 2.0 Road Bike - 2014 Performance Exclusive - Performance Sales Exclusions
GT Attack 2.0 Road Bike - 2014 Performance Exclusive - Performance Sales Exclusions
#40
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I got lucky last spring, right place, right time. Walked in to one of my local bike shops and picked up an aluminum Giant Defy 1 he had sold the prior fall. The guy traded on something carbon, he just dropped it off the day before. I picked it up at a great price and the bike was perfect. Just start looking around, you never know what you'll run in to.
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What's the difference between a recreational cyclist and recreational racer?.. (is there even a thing as a recreational race, or is that anyone who races out of their own wallet?)
#42
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I can imagine that a person could view themself as a serious racer while those around him/her would be too polite to laugh in their face.
#43
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My first road bike was this. ALI at Masi in Houston, Texas, United States - photo by stab05 - Pinkbike Got it on clearance for $600 and rode it almost 6k miles from 260, down to 215 lb. and it served me very well. Now have this (From same LBS- a Masi Dealer) ******************************???MASI?2013???? - cyclist MSRP $2300, negotiated him down to internet price of $1600. It's a keeper, and I don't really need more bike. (2.2k miles including two centuries on it since new last September.)
Last edited by CommuteCommando; 03-19-14 at 01:10 PM.
#44
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I just got my first real rode bike (I don't count the ten-speed I had in high school) and I got into it very cheaply when a friend my size got something newer and made me a great deal on his old one. My LBS whipped it into shape quite nicely and now I've got a solid road bike in my garage for not much out of pocket compared to buying anything brand new.
But my goodness, all that other stuff really adds up! I haven't bought any of it yet, but have priced it all. When I ride my MTB, I just wear whatever shorts and tee-shirt and sneakers I happen to have on that day. That will work for a while, I guess, on the road bike until I start riding longer distances - so far have just done a couple short rides in the neighborhood on platform pedals wearing baggy cotton shorts to get the feel of the thing and learn how brifters work.
I tend to do without things that seems like fluff and luxury in general, but I can imagine the benefits of cycling-specific clothing. If nothing else, I won't have chain marks on my jeans legs.
Good luck to the OP from another road bike newbie.
But my goodness, all that other stuff really adds up! I haven't bought any of it yet, but have priced it all. When I ride my MTB, I just wear whatever shorts and tee-shirt and sneakers I happen to have on that day. That will work for a while, I guess, on the road bike until I start riding longer distances - so far have just done a couple short rides in the neighborhood on platform pedals wearing baggy cotton shorts to get the feel of the thing and learn how brifters work.
I tend to do without things that seems like fluff and luxury in general, but I can imagine the benefits of cycling-specific clothing. If nothing else, I won't have chain marks on my jeans legs.
Good luck to the OP from another road bike newbie.
#45
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I bought an old fuji mtb for €130 that has taken me on my commute to work through ice and snow, and also allows me to keep up with hardcore riders riding some super-expensive bikes on some super-scary trails.
It's nice to talk about expensive components and frames, but it's the riding that counts IMO. So long as you don't get a walmart bike with plastic brakes and one of those cheapo bent-metal crankshafts you will have just as good a time riding as everyone else.
It's nice to talk about expensive components and frames, but it's the riding that counts IMO. So long as you don't get a walmart bike with plastic brakes and one of those cheapo bent-metal crankshafts you will have just as good a time riding as everyone else.
#46
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Not at all. Decent brand aluminium frame, with Tiagra or 105 is nice enough, and that will set you back just about 1200 when buying new. Much less if you get it secondhand.
#47
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Probably have better luck with Performance, at least they have actual stores to help deal with this sort of thing.
Fit is incredibly important, too, so for beginning cyclists, it is wise to ask around and find a shop with a good rep for making sure your bike fits. I don't care how good a deal you get on a bike, is the fit isn't right, you won't be comfortable for those longed rides.
Good luck in your search!
#48
High Plains Luddite
You build your inventory of that stuff slowly. If I had to choose, I would go with helmet, floor pump, spare tube, frame pump or CO2, and a pair of basic shorts. If you look for deals, that should run you about $200 for that stuff, maybe a bit more. You can wear a technical T shirt until you have money for a cycling jersey. If funds are scarce, maybe put off pedals and shoes as well. That will save you about $100.
I'm looking at bike shorts first, shoes & pedals next, and then I'm sure more shorts, jerseys with long and short sleeves, then long sleeve pants for cooler days, etc. It looks like it will cost over $100 just to look the part on one ride.
That's okay, though, and it's not like it's $100+ down the drain - that stuff will last me long time, probably. I'll get there eventually. It's like any other hobby, I'm sure - guys who have been doing it for years have all the cool stuff, but they didn't buy it all at once.
#49
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Thanks for the reply. Fortunately as a MTB/commuter owner, I already have a helmet, gloves, water bottles, floor pump, spare tubes (for both my bikes now), patch kits, frame pumps for both, underseat storage bags, etc. I just don't any bike-specific clothing or shoes.
I'm looking at bike shorts first, shoes & pedals next, and then I'm sure more shorts, jerseys with long and short sleeves, then long sleeve pants for cooler days, etc. It looks like it will cost over $100 just to look the part on one ride.
That's okay, though, and it's not like it's $100+ down the drain - that stuff will last me long time, probably. I'll get there eventually. It's like any other hobby, I'm sure - guys who have been doing it for years have all the cool stuff, but they didn't buy it all at once.
I'm looking at bike shorts first, shoes & pedals next, and then I'm sure more shorts, jerseys with long and short sleeves, then long sleeve pants for cooler days, etc. It looks like it will cost over $100 just to look the part on one ride.
That's okay, though, and it's not like it's $100+ down the drain - that stuff will last me long time, probably. I'll get there eventually. It's like any other hobby, I'm sure - guys who have been doing it for years have all the cool stuff, but they didn't buy it all at once.
#50
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Basically. Even a nice old school (or new for that matter) steel is plenty fine - especially if you put in a few bucks to get all the components into 100% working order. Main thing is to get something that won't break easily and maintain it properly, really if you plan on parking it outside for any period of time you don't want anything too flashy anyway... you can absolutely spend $200 and have a bike that will get you where you are going... but I'd say $500 is a good "entry level" point for a reliable road bike.