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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Did I make a mistake...

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Old 03-31-14, 10:39 AM
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Did I make a mistake...

I have a 1996 Merlin Road Bike and I have been browsing on ebay for a good 1inch carbon fork.

I lost a bid on a Oval Concepts A900 fork, but then received an email for a 2nd chance since the winner I assume did not pay.

The rake appears to be 44.6mm. I believe my current stock aluminum fork is 43mm.

I got the fork for less than $200 new, so If I hated it, Im sure I could sell it for what I paid for it.



I always ride on fairly smooth pavement, I like to ride fast and I'm constantly working on my speed. I have never ridden on a bike track but would like to one day.
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Old 03-31-14, 10:48 AM
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The bike will have slightly faster steering with the new fork, but that's fine. It's perfectly safe and you'll get used to it.
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Old 03-31-14, 01:37 PM
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I doubt you'll notice the difference in rake. But even if you do, it won't take long to get used to it.
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Old 03-31-14, 01:49 PM
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wouldn?t it be slightly slower handling. The 1.5 degree increase puts the wheel slightly farther away from frame... Thus slightly slower response, or do I have it backward.

Anyways the jump from steel/Ti to carbon will be slightly noticeable, might feel like your front wheel is flat.

But it sounds like you got something you wanted, enjoy it!
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Old 03-31-14, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by escarpment
wouldn?t it be slightly slower handling. The 1.5 degree increase puts the wheel slightly farther away from frame... Thus slightly slower response, or do I have it backward.

Anyways the jump from steel/Ti to carbon will be slightly noticeable, might feel like your front wheel is flat.

But it sounds like you got something you wanted, enjoy it!
Yes, you have it backwards. More rake will lead to faster handling, because increased rake = decreased trail, among other things.
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Old 03-31-14, 02:05 PM
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interesting, thanks.
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Old 03-31-14, 02:06 PM
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You do realize that's 1/16", right?

No one on this planet could tell you in a blind test that their rake was different by 1/16".

I'd dare bet if you took 10 identical brand new bikes of the assembly line and measured axle to axle you'd see much more deviation than that.
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Old 03-31-14, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kv501
You do realize that's 1/16", right?

No one on this planet could tell you in a blind test that their rake was different by 1/16".

I'd dare bet if you took 10 identical brand new bikes of the assembly line and measured axle to axle you'd see much more deviation than that.
This is not exactly true. I can tell the difference between a 43mm rake and a 45mm rake. But I can only tell on the first ride when I change forks, and you adapt so quickly that it becomes a moot point. Much of it has to do with if the 2mm rake causes trail to cross what you consider neutral steering. On the frame I mentioned, it does. I would most likely not see any difference between the 43mm and a 40mm, as both would feel slow.

I also doubt that the tolerance on a modern fabricated fork allows for 0.060". You can cast to that tolerance with no secondary ops. A proper jig would fabricate things to probably 1/3rd of that, as a guess.
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Old 03-31-14, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by escarpment
interesting, thanks.
Yeah, it was hard for me to see, too.

It's because of the head tube angle. That puts the front wheel's point of contact with the ground BEHIND the axis of the head tube. So a larger rake moves the contact point forward and closer to the head tube axis.
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Old 03-31-14, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kv501
You do realize that's 1/16", right?

No one on this planet could tell you in a blind test that their rake was different by 1/16".

I'd dare bet if you took 10 identical brand new bikes of the assembly line and measured axle to axle you'd see much more deviation than that.
Uh, that's not how it works. Just because the difference looks small in absolute terms doesn't mean it isn't noticeable. 1.6mm is subtle enough that it wouldn't be wildly different, but small differences in rake are important. You would absolutely notice a 3 or 4mm difference. The key is that a 1/16" difference in rake corresponds to a much larger difference in trail, thanks to trigonometry.

And modern manufacturing standards are much better than you seem to realize.
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Old 04-01-14, 09:19 AM
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Well I guess we can all agree that the difference in Rake will be noticeable but nothing that I can't learn to control.

Another question I have, is can you guys suggest a good Headset/Stem combo? Unfortunately I do not have the funds for titanium headset/stem. Im thinking a carbon/alloy combo of sorts.

I was looking at some ritchey WCS 1inch and chris king products, Im hoping to keep it about $300 for the headset/stem.

This will be on a 1996 Merlin Road bike with 1inch steerer

Last edited by merlin504; 04-01-14 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 04-01-14, 10:47 AM
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Headset: Cane Creek 40.

Stem: Ritchey WCS 4-Axis.

EDIT: oh, 1-inch. Hmmm. If Ritchey has a 1" headset, use that. For the stem, same recommendation, get a shim.
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Old 04-01-14, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by grolby
Headset: Cane Creek 40.

Stem: Ritchey WCS 4-Axis.

EDIT: oh, 1-inch. Hmmm. If Ritchey has a 1" headset, use that. For the stem, same recommendation, get a shim.
I would absolutely agree on the Cane Creek 40, and it is available in 1"

Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40-Series EC30 Headset

I have used some of the $25 FSA, Aheadset, and Ritchey headsets, and if you do any inclement weather riding, they do not hold up. The Cane Creek 40 has additional seals external to the bearing, and is really a high quality unit.

EDIT: I meant to say I just replaced a stock Felt headset (1 1/8" external cup) that fell apart after one season with a CC 40, and have ridden it through the winter with zero issues. So I am not only a recommender, I am a user.
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Old 04-01-14, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by grolby
Headset: Cane Creek 40.

Stem: Ritchey WCS 4-Axis.

EDIT: oh, 1-inch. Hmmm. If Ritchey has a 1" headset, use that. For the stem, same recommendation, get a shim.
Ritchey WCS Logic is available in 1", at bikesomewhere for $71.

You can get a Ritchie Logic from Jensen for $16

Ritchey Logic Threadless Headset > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

For less than $300, you should be able to do Ritchie Logic WCS headset, stem, and bars which would coordinate.
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Old 04-01-14, 12:01 PM
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Geesh, another thread where people think infinitesimal differences will make a significant and noticeable change. A difference in 1.6mm of rake will not be noticed and will not change the steering of the bike in any way. Any effect people claim would be placebo.

OP, you will be fine...you are not "raking out" the front end like an Orange County Chopper.
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Old 04-01-14, 01:19 PM
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Im reading that it is no big deal to use a 1.25 shim on the stem. Every where I read, people are saying there arent many 1inch stems and the ones that exist are mediocre at best
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Old 04-18-14, 10:18 AM
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Just thought I would update you folks, through patiently waiting and lurking on ebay for new items at low prices, I got everything I need:

For one,
Oval Concepts A900 Carbon fork.......$ 183.00
FSA Wingpro Road Handlebar 31.8.........42.00
FSA OS-150 Carbon Pro Stem 31.8........39.00
Cane Creek 40 EC30 Headset ...............41.87
..................................................$ 305.87

All I need is a shim so the 1 1/8 stem will fit on the 1in headset and a compression plug. So with those 2 parts and labor I should be under 400

Basically for anyone who stumbles upon this thread, they will know what kind of cost to expect for some decent parts.

Ill post pictures with the assembly
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