Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Gearing

  1. #1
    Senior Member lennyparis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Long Island
    My Bikes
    2014 S-Works Tarmac, 2011 Trek Madone 6.2, 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 & 2009 Specialized Hardtail
    Posts
    519
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Gearing

    Anyone use 52-38 instead of going to full mid compact at 52-36?
    How did you decide this?
    Wanting to be closer to compact (50-34) or standard (53-39)?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    4,667
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use a 52-38 on one of my tandems. A compact isn't a great idea on a tandem because of the load; no one wants a flexing big ring. We dropped to the 38 because it is the smallest mid-ring we can put on 130 bcd, and it's nice to stay out of the granny ring (like most tandems, we roll a triple). The downside of 38 vs 39 is that once the teeth wear a bit the chain can ride on the bolts and cause slippage, so one gets less life out of a 38 vs a 39.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lennyparis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Long Island
    My Bikes
    2014 S-Works Tarmac, 2011 Trek Madone 6.2, 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 & 2009 Specialized Hardtail
    Posts
    519
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks for the tandem response. Was curious about high end road bike. Is a 52-38 very close to 53-39 that it is irrelevant? Or does it help without the spinning you might get from a 34 or even 36?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Tulsa OK
    Posts
    1,332
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    With 10 and 11 speed and the availability of wide ratio cassettes I really don't see who that little of a change to be in between is useful.

  5. #5
    Portland Fred banerjek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    My Bikes
    Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
    Posts
    10,485
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lennyparis View Post
    thanks for the tandem response. Was curious about high end road bike. Is a 52-38 very close to 53-39 that it is irrelevant?
    Yes. It's so close it's pointless.

    Quote Originally Posted by lennyparis View Post
    Or does it help without the spinning you might get from a 34 or even 36?
    Gearing is a matter of the rider, the bike, and conditions. If you're finding yourself wanting lower gears, you need fewer teeth in at least one ring and/or a bigger cassette. If you find yourself wanting higher gears, at least one ring is too small. If the gears seem too far apart, get a tighter cassette (you may need to adjust your rings). If you can pedal the way you want, you shouldn't change your gearing.

  6. #6
    These Guys Eat Oreos Creatre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    My Bikes
    Yes
    Posts
    3,341
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Category 2 | | Velogames BikeForums Leagues: 1st - 2012 Veulta, 1st - 2011 Vuelta, 2nd - 2013 Vuelta, 3rd - 2012 Giro, 4th - 2012 TdF

  7. #7
    pan y agua merlinextraligh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville
    My Bikes
    Wilier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Co-Motion Robusta; Schwinn Paramount; Motobecane Phantom Cross; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er
    Posts
    27,236
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Few years ago, I did Le Tour de Etape in the Pyranees, didn't want to use a compact, and biggest cog I could use in the back was 27.

    I put a 38 inner chain ring on the front. Worked fine with the 53/38, and was a cheap change ($30 or so for the chainring IIRC).

    The difference in the gearing is fairly marginal. The difference, about .2mph at 60rpm.

    But if you need a slightly lower gear, are using the biggest cassette that works, and don't want to invest in a compact, it's a cheap alternative.
    You could fall off a cliff and die.
    You could get lost and die.
    You could hit a tree and die.
    OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.

  8. #8
    Senior Member lennyparis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Long Island
    My Bikes
    2014 S-Works Tarmac, 2011 Trek Madone 6.2, 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 & 2009 Specialized Hardtail
    Posts
    519
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thank you. Real question is does the 38 make any difference from a 39 (which I originally was staying away from) or is a 36 better for me (since closer to my 34; which i spin too much without enough forward or upward movement)? Do like the 52 to 38 shorter spread rather than the 36 and looking at the 50-34 with 12-25 as compared to 52-38 with 11-28 there seems to be similarities as to what I am used to. Moving to a 36 gives me even higher gears when you get to the 25 or 28 tooth cog

  9. #9
    Portland Fred banerjek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    My Bikes
    Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
    Posts
    10,485
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lennyparis View Post
    Thank you. Real question is does the 38 make any difference from a 39 (which I originally was staying away from) or is a 36 better for me (since closer to my 34; which i spin too much without enough forward or upward movement)? Do like the 52 to 38 shorter spread rather than the 36 and looking at the 50-34 with 12-25 as compared to 52-38 with 11-28 there seems to be similarities as to what I am used to. Moving to a 36 gives me even higher gears when you get to the 25 or 28 tooth cog
    If the 34 is too small, go for the 39.

    I'm not quite sure I understand what's going on. 34/25 is 9.6mph and 34/12 is 20mph at 90rpm. If that's not enough speed, you should be using your big ring. Don't worry about spinning out your big ring. 50/12 spins out around 40mph and even at 90rpm, it's a very studly 29.3mph. If this is an issue, someone else should be buying a much nicer bike than you have for you.

  10. #10
    Senior Member lennyparis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Long Island
    My Bikes
    2014 S-Works Tarmac, 2011 Trek Madone 6.2, 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 & 2009 Specialized Hardtail
    Posts
    519
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The 34 going up hill is spinning without enough upward motion so moving to a 36 but wondering about a 38 instead. The 50 on downhills is also spinning so moving to a 52.
    Wondering if splitting hairs between a 38 and what a 39 would be vs. going with 36 (with 12-28 for broad range) and still spinning somewhat

  11. #11
    Senior Member RollCNY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Central NY
    My Bikes
    Felt Rejected
    Posts
    6,283
    Mentioned
    87 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think what people are trying to say is, "You aren't making any sense," but trying to do it tactfully.

    If you are spinning in your 34 and not making enough forward motion, SHIFT DOWN ONE COG. The 10 speed cassette allows you to change them mid-ride. To think that a larger small chainring improves that is missing the point that it only impacts meaningfully one gear combination: big cog, small chainring.

    I can't currently tell what you are looking for on the large end, so I don't know what you want.

    I have ridden 50/34 with 12-25 & 11-26 cassettes. I have done 50/36 with the same. I have done 53/39 with 12-25. I can tell you no meaningful difference between them. My favorite was the 50/36, because it looked the best. My latest build is 50/34 with 12-23 cassette, and I expect no meaningful difference.

    You are over thinking a very very insignificant detail, especially for the terrain of Long Island. I know this is your once in a lifetime build, so just buy what looks best to you.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lennyparis View Post
    The 34 going up hill is spinning without enough upward motion so moving to a 36 but wondering about a 38 instead.
    We don't understand this. You do understand that you aren't required to use the largest cog when in the small ring, right? If you are spun out, shift the rear to a smaller cog. If you are going 17/18+mph uphill, good for you, shift to the big ring. Changing from 34 to 36 isn't really doing a whole lot. If you are running say 21-23-25-28 last 4 rear cogs, it's roughly the same as changing to 20-22-24-26. It's like a half gear change, if you are spun out, just use the next cog?

    Maybe you just want to swap cassettes from 12-28 or whatever you have to a 11-25 or 11-23 if you really never have to use the last 2 cogs. Going from 12-11 gives you more top end speed downhill than going from 50-52.

  13. #13
    Senior Member lennyparis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Long Island
    My Bikes
    2014 S-Works Tarmac, 2011 Trek Madone 6.2, 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 & 2009 Specialized Hardtail
    Posts
    519
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Not using largest cog. In 34 on climbs and 21 in back while spinning for example

    Yes I could shift to 19. And I do

    But on new bike thought I could put 36 or 38 on and then ride in 21 without spinning so much
    More of effort going to going up the hill

    Not a dream build. If I don't like it I can start all over next year

  14. #14
    Portland Fred banerjek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    My Bikes
    Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
    Posts
    10,485
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lennyparis View Post
    Not using largest cog. In 34 on climbs and 21 in back while spinning for example

    Yes I could shift to 19. And I do

    But on new bike thought I could put 36 or 38 on and then ride in 21 without spinning so much
    Why not shift to a smaller cog than the 19? That's what they're for.

    If you switch to a 36, you'll spin more in the 21 than you would with the 34/19 combo. The difference between the 38/21 and 34/19 combo is so small you'll never notice.

  15. #15
    Portland Fred banerjek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    My Bikes
    Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
    Posts
    10,485
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This spinning out on climbs problem is pretty unique. As far as I know, even the strongest guys I know have never experienced this issue.

  16. #16
    . bbattle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
    My Bikes
    2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Trevisio, 1991 Colnago Master, '06 Bianchi San Jose, 1987 Moulton Fuso, '80's Gardin Shred?, '82 John Howard(Dave Tesch)
    Posts
    11,639
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is this the return of R600 DuraAce?

  17. #17
    Senior Member clausen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Northern Ontario
    My Bikes
    Colnago Master XL, Bianchi Via Nirone 7, Marinoni Fango
    Posts
    3,627
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    You would have a bigger change in gearing by changing to a different cassette. Find the gearing that work best for you on the roads you ride on. I switch out cassettes for different routes all the time.

  18. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    44
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    just throwing this out there since you seem pretty confused on what to go with... inner chainrings are cheap... if you've already got a compact crank you can pick up a 36 tooth chainring for like $20, slap it on and then you'll know what it's like. If you don't like the 36 then try a 38.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •