Open Pro Rims and Mavic Hubs
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Open Pro Rims and Mavic Hubs
Is anyone running Mavic Open Pro rims with Mavic hubs? My LBS mentioned he sells this combo already pre-built . I didn't get too far into the conversation but was wondering what kind of price and durability this wheel combo has. I'm thinking 28 spoke with 3 cross. I weigh 215 right now. Thanks for any info.
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Did he maybe say Shimano hubs (like Ultegra)? Likely 32h 3x for around $300, super common combo. Open Pro's are pretty out-of-date though. You might look at a similar hub with a wider rim (Archetype?). 28 spokes should be plenty for the front (but that drilling isn't offered in Ultegra anymore).
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Last edited by dtrain; 04-02-14 at 12:55 PM.
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I've got a set of machine built, ultegra hubs, open pro rims, 32 spoke. They were $199 from Performance awhile back.
They've worked well for me, with their primary use being dirt road races, and light touring.
They used to be the go to recommendation for a bullet proof wheel, but the rims are subject to cracking around the eyelets and there are now better options at a similar price.
I wouldn't steer away from a good deal on them though.
And you might as well go 32 spokes. There is nothing light or sexy about this setup; you might as well make it strong.
They've worked well for me, with their primary use being dirt road races, and light touring.
They used to be the go to recommendation for a bullet proof wheel, but the rims are subject to cracking around the eyelets and there are now better options at a similar price.
I wouldn't steer away from a good deal on them though.
And you might as well go 32 spokes. There is nothing light or sexy about this setup; you might as well make it strong.
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An Open Pro 32h laced 3x to a Shimano hub (105 or Ultegra) would be pretty bullet proof. I have a front wheel that is on a 105 hub, and my rear is a CXP33 with a DuraAce hub. They are both rock solid.
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If built properly- with Mavic's spec on spoke tension (lower than what is commonly used on more "modern" rims), they won't crack around the eyelets.
#6
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i ran them for years as a combo for touring and fixed gear, 105 hubs they worked great for me i weighed between 150-180 and had not gotten over skidding yet.
Last edited by c0urt; 04-02-14 at 01:53 PM.
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I wouldn't spend money on the Open Pro. You can get a Kinlin rim, which will weight the same but have better tension geometry, for half the price.
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But yeah, if you're going to pay a premium for a welded rim joint and brake tracks machined to close tolerances, just get a DT Swiss rim and do it right.
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Well, to be fair the OP would probably build into a "better" wheel with more even spoke tension than a Kinlin rim would. Probably wouldn't make a bit of practical difference, though. Well, other than a Kinlin 27- or 30-mm deep rim would probably be stronger, lighter, and more aero than the OP...
But yeah, if you're going to pay a premium for a welded rim joint and brake tracks machined to close tolerances, just get a DT Swiss rim and do it right.
But yeah, if you're going to pay a premium for a welded rim joint and brake tracks machined to close tolerances, just get a DT Swiss rim and do it right.
Also, I have had great luck with kinlin and they build up just as well as any recently made mavic rim.
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Light, strong, cheap....pick any two! OPs are strong and cheap. If that is what you want, they are hard to beat for the money. At 260, I have put a lot of miles on those babies and never trued them. I am sure there are better more modern sets out there but remember, light, strong, cheap...pick any two!
Gotta check out kinlin...
Gotta check out kinlin...
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Light, strong, cheap....pick any two! OPs are strong and cheap. If that is what you want, they are hard to beat for the money. At 260, I have put a lot of miles on those babies and never trued them. I am sure there are better more modern sets out there but remember, light, strong, cheap...pick any two!
Gotta check out kinlin...
Gotta check out kinlin...
They're heavier than Kinlin XR-270s.
They're weaker than Kinlin XR-270s.
You can get Kinlin XR-270s for $45 or so off eBay, shipped.
Why are Kinlin rims less expensive, lighter, and stronger? Newer design makes them lighter and stronger (maybe a newer alloy, too), and they're less expensive probably for multiple reasons - among them looser manufacturing tolerances (they don't seem as "round" as OPs to me, much less DT Swiss rims...), and a pinned instead of a welded rim joint. Oh, and lack of name recognition - I don't think the cost of Kinlin rims has to support all the sponsorships that the cost of a Mavic product does.
If you want to spend $80 for a box rim, you can get a DT Swiss RR465 for about $80, including shipping. That's about the same weight as the OP, costs the same, and it's stronger.
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I did some checking on those Kinlins and they do look like they will be a formidable competitor to CXP, DT and Velo. Didn't realize they could be had for $45! Of course that wont affect me as I don't build them but if I ever manage to tear up my CXPs I will definitely give them a look. That market is getting competitive with more options which is good for us big guys!!
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Is anyone running Mavic Open Pro rims with Mavic hubs? My LBS mentioned he sells this combo already pre-built . I didn't get too far into the conversation but was wondering what kind of price and durability this wheel combo has. I'm thinking 28 spoke with 3 cross. I weigh 215 right now. Thanks for any info.
They're fine for a 170 pound rider but arguably insufficient for Clydestales.
I doubt I got a year out of my rear Reflex Clincher sharing the dimensions but using less metal (an actual 400g versus 435g for the Open Pro) at 150 pounds. The front was good for 12-13 years at up to 170 pounds but bent when I rode it after breaking my leg and exceeding 200 pounds.
Otherwise they're OK for what they are (build with uniform tension, eyelets so nipples turn smoothly, a deep enough depression at the center tires aren't hard to mount) but a bit pricey ($75 vs. $40-$50 for a Kinlin or Velocity rim).
I'm not a big fan of the Kinlins XR270 - the center depression is almost not existent (as in if you put a Velox rim tape on the first bead of a Continental GP 4 Season won't move. Veloplugs make the rims tight but usable) and ERD varies a lot - and merely mention price for comparison purposes.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-03-14 at 10:34 AM.
#15
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We have 5 road bikes in the house (2 mine, 3 the bf's). All the wheels are Open Pro rims (32h) with Ultegra or Dura Ace hubs. We like them. My bf builds and maintains his own wheels. I think his oldest road bike wheel still in use is about 20 years old. He's a clyde at 200lbs.
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Wheel building is about as technically difficult as adjusting front derailleurs, but obviously takes much longer due to the number of parts involved (12-40 spokes and their nipples). For each wheel I like to drink one beer lacing and one or two finishing it.
Jobst Brandt tested his book _The Bicycle Wheel_ by having each of his grade school sons build a pair of wheels with no additional help.
Jobst Brandt tested his book _The Bicycle Wheel_ by having each of his grade school sons build a pair of wheels with no additional help.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-03-14 at 04:27 PM.
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Open pros are shallow box section rims that are inherently (beam stiffness is proportional to the cube of depth) less rigid and therefore easier to bend than deeper rims.
They're fine for a 170 pound rider but arguably insufficient for Clydestales.
I doubt I got a year out of my rear Reflex Clincher sharing the dimensions but using less metal (an actual 400g versus 435g for the Open Pro) at 150 pounds. The front was good for 12-13 years at up to 170 pounds but bent when I rode it after breaking my leg and exceeding 200 pounds.
Otherwise they're OK for what they are (build with uniform tension, eyelets so nipples turn smoothly, a deep enough depression at the center tires aren't hard to mount) but a bit pricey ($75 vs. $40-$50 for a Kinlin or Velocity rim).
I'm not a big fan of the Kinlins XR270 - the center depression is almost not existent (as in if you put a Velox rim tape on the first bead of a Continental GP 4 Season won't move. Veloplugs make the rims tight but usable) and ERD varies a lot - and merely mention price for comparison purposes.
They're fine for a 170 pound rider but arguably insufficient for Clydestales.
I doubt I got a year out of my rear Reflex Clincher sharing the dimensions but using less metal (an actual 400g versus 435g for the Open Pro) at 150 pounds. The front was good for 12-13 years at up to 170 pounds but bent when I rode it after breaking my leg and exceeding 200 pounds.
Otherwise they're OK for what they are (build with uniform tension, eyelets so nipples turn smoothly, a deep enough depression at the center tires aren't hard to mount) but a bit pricey ($75 vs. $40-$50 for a Kinlin or Velocity rim).
I'm not a big fan of the Kinlins XR270 - the center depression is almost not existent (as in if you put a Velox rim tape on the first bead of a Continental GP 4 Season won't move. Veloplugs make the rims tight but usable) and ERD varies a lot - and merely mention price for comparison purposes.
Drew, you seem to have some knowledge in this arena. What is your rec for a clyde wheelset? I've broken spokes before but never a rim. I have a set of 32 OPs with ultegra hubs and a set of CXP33s with ultegra hubs in 32/36. Both have been pretty solid for me at 260 lbs. The OPs are on my secondary ride but do get some use.
thanks
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I'd never use the Open Pro these days. The Belgium, SL23, and XC279 are better. Staying with narrow rims, DT Swiss anything would be preferable.
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I just bought some Pacenti SL23s...but there's no reason to ditch OP's or CXP33's that have been pretty solid. There are just better options if you are starting a new build, replacing shot rims, etc.
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Wheel building is about as technically difficult as adjusting front derailleurs, but obviously takes much longer due to the number of parts involved (12-40 spokes and their nipples). For each wheel I like to drink one beer lacing and one or two finishing it.
Jobst Brandt tested his book _The Bicycle Wheel_ by having each of his grade school sons build a pair of wheels with no additional help.
Jobst Brandt tested his book _The Bicycle Wheel_ by having each of his grade school sons build a pair of wheels with no additional help.