New wheels or groupset
#26
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OP
There is no upgrade, only replacement.
If you have a specific and quantifiable target for part replacement, then that replacement becomes self-evident. For instance, your wheels won't stay true, or they rub your brake pads on every climb, then you have a problem and a target solution. Replace parts to solve,
If you have no specific target, then replacement parts are unlikely to be a satisfactory solution.
There is no upgrade, only replacement.
If you have a specific and quantifiable target for part replacement, then that replacement becomes self-evident. For instance, your wheels won't stay true, or they rub your brake pads on every climb, then you have a problem and a target solution. Replace parts to solve,
If you have no specific target, then replacement parts are unlikely to be a satisfactory solution.
I'm trying to get the newb to give me his old and outdated components.
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Dude, if you are dissatisfied with 2/3 of your bike, just buy or build up a new bike. Sell that one. 105 11 speed is coming out this June and it'll probably be about $450 if you want to wait for that.
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something to consider is that the wheels will ultimately shave more time than the insignificant weight reduction in componentry. that said, even a 60mm rim shaves about 1.5% or about a second per every minute ridden at 25mph. an aero helmet saves comparable time. if you're about getting a more visceral experience, it probably would be from smoother shifts and mildly better braking. contrary to consumer thought, it isn't the upgrades that will make you significantly faster but steadily increasing the base mileage and working on intervals to build up your speed.
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Something that has been said but should be repeated...your stock wheels aren't 11 speed compatible so you aren't going to be switching to 6800 without doing something about wheels.
I would pick new wheels anyway, even if there wasn't a compatibility issue. Get some wheels that are 11 speed ready, drop some weight from stock, possibly gain some stiffness and a wider rim then switch your current cassette to them using the supplied spacer and you will then be able to swap those wheels to a new bike in the future. Then you are ready to upgrade to 6800 when you get some more money burning a hole in your pocket.
I would pick new wheels anyway, even if there wasn't a compatibility issue. Get some wheels that are 11 speed ready, drop some weight from stock, possibly gain some stiffness and a wider rim then switch your current cassette to them using the supplied spacer and you will then be able to swap those wheels to a new bike in the future. Then you are ready to upgrade to 6800 when you get some more money burning a hole in your pocket.
#31
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The only reason I can think of for replacing a groupset is for the cockpit end - the shifter ergonomics in particular. Maybe the feel of the brakes, but unless you have long, steep, twisty downhills... My vote would be to get yourself a nice wheelset and spend money on good tires, if you have to scratch the upgrade itch.
#34
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Why are you upgrading?
If I had to choose, I'd get the Reynold's wheels. Any reason you need Ultrega 11?
If I had to choose, I'd get the Reynold's wheels. Any reason you need Ultrega 11?
#36
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Sorry about getting back on track with this thread. I work in the hospitality industry and have been traveling lately and not on the saddle often. As I said before, I was expecting different/mixed opinions from new and experience riders, well taken. With the majority supporting the wheels and after doing some research, the best move will be going with the wheels. I totally understand that upgrading to certain wheels will require 11 groups, so saving some more could be an option to get both, but like some of you said... what's wrong with 105. The main reason is that I still like this bike, it's my first and it feels good on it, in sense of the frame. At the same time I've saved around $1200 to utilize as "upgrades or replacement parts". Clermont has quite a few hills that are challenges for a lot of cyclist. I’m still learning on how to tackle some of them after a year and have dominated others. It's a great place to ride. I know that is a lot of money and it can be used or saved to get a new bike as well but... There are a lot of cyclist riding very old/vintage bikes and spending money on them because they feel comfortable with them. Don't get me wrong, I would love to get a newer bike, but even after a year sometimes I feel an amateur in the sport. I still have to improve time on the saddle riding around 80 miles per week. Thanks for your support and comments.
#37
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OP lives in Clermont. He actually has hills. Sugarloaf "Mountain" is a 15% grade. Admittedly, they are all very short.
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You could always sell your bike and get a new one that comes with ultegra 11 speed, and that bike will most likely have better wheels. Then spend 200 bucks and get vuelta corsa lite wheels. Problem solved. This probably won't cost more than just buying carbon wheels which won't get you what you ultimately want.
#40
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Not familiarize with the spacers and the actual benefit, I will look into it. Thx.
#41
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Yes, Clermont. I know, most of them are short but one after the other one. Great for me that started almost a year ago. Merlinextralight, I visit Orange Park a lot but never have ridden in the area.
#42
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#43
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upgrading components would be at the bottom of my list. wheels, clothing, garmin, um....other things i'm sure....tons of stuff comes before components.
that said, if you're tempted to upgrade most of the bike then maybe you're due for a new bike.
that said, if you're tempted to upgrade most of the bike then maybe you're due for a new bike.
#44
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Thanks for all your advices and opinions.... I bought a new set of Reynolds Assults, put 45 on Saturday and they feel comfortable. Ride was very smooth so far, and they lookk great.
#45
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This is probably why you did it but if it makes you ride more, than it was money well spent.
#46
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... as everyone says the biggest upgrade could be the wheels and I can always take them with me if I get a new bike. I noticed a difference in weight picking up both wheels with cassettes on them...
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So your bike is worth like 800 or 900 bucks, and you spent twice that amount on wheels? Interesting decision, but the wheels do look really nice.
#48
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Opinion well taken. I know, next will be the bike, I can always put these on the new one. It was easier to spend this amount ($900 new) than in a new bike at this point. I've seen old bikes with new upgrades because they feel comfortable with the bike. It has been a year now that I started riding and I like it, but still learning the aspects of it. Asking certain questions and opinions helps a lot, even if the final decision is mine. Now the other part will be to decide for the right bike for me based on my budget...
#49
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Now I don't feel that one should upgrade all willy-nilly, but it doesn't seem like anyone has addressed how awesome the new Ultegra is.
The shifting is quicker and more precise. The ergonomics are better. You get smaller jumps in between the gears, or a wider gear ratio. In all but one of the available cassettes you get the "magic" 16t cog. And, with the mid-cage derailleur you can go up to a 32t cog in back (doesn't really matter to the OP I know). Oh, I didn't mention the mid-compact option - there's that too.
This isn't marketing BS. I was riding 6700 before this and this blows it away. It feels more like the crisp, quick shifting of 7800, but with handlebar shift routing.
Addressing the poster who said that it's not worth upgrading unless it's a two step jump; it may be that way with Sram but in this case there really is no reason to upgrade to Dura Ace unless you are a true weight weenie, or you just gotta have black. There is very little functional difference between them, but a significant price jump.
That all said, you would still need to change wheels (or at least the freehub) before you could take advantage of it, and in Fla. it may be a better choice for you to drop the cash on some nice areo wheels that have the 11 speed freehub and worry about updating the groupset later down the road.
Or buy a new bike.
The shifting is quicker and more precise. The ergonomics are better. You get smaller jumps in between the gears, or a wider gear ratio. In all but one of the available cassettes you get the "magic" 16t cog. And, with the mid-cage derailleur you can go up to a 32t cog in back (doesn't really matter to the OP I know). Oh, I didn't mention the mid-compact option - there's that too.
This isn't marketing BS. I was riding 6700 before this and this blows it away. It feels more like the crisp, quick shifting of 7800, but with handlebar shift routing.
Addressing the poster who said that it's not worth upgrading unless it's a two step jump; it may be that way with Sram but in this case there really is no reason to upgrade to Dura Ace unless you are a true weight weenie, or you just gotta have black. There is very little functional difference between them, but a significant price jump.
That all said, you would still need to change wheels (or at least the freehub) before you could take advantage of it, and in Fla. it may be a better choice for you to drop the cash on some nice areo wheels that have the 11 speed freehub and worry about updating the groupset later down the road.
Or buy a new bike.
#50
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Well, so far I started pulling the trigger on this, just got the 6800 brakes set, RD and 50/34 crankset. I buying evrything almost separate (new) from riders and I have saved so far $120.