Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 156
  1. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    N.W.Ohio
    Posts
    801
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I like the set i have, back tire is showing quite a bit of ware , after 2300 miles.The front not so much.So i am going to replace the back and hope they both go at the same time.

  2. #27
    Senior Member Jed19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,795
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Suppleness by itself is not a virtue. It has to be combined with decent/acceptable flat protection and ease of roll. The best tire I've ever rode on re suppleness are Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX. The problem is that they don't last long, and worse, they cut too easily. I always patch the cuts with Shoe Goo and also silicone RTV gels.

    So, suppleness, ease of roll, longevity and decent flat protection? Pick two. Or maybe three.

    I currently ride on Michelin Krylion Carbon 23mm, Conti 4000S 23mm and 25mm, and Conti 4000S II 25mm. And they are all decent tires, but I am through riding 23mm tires, as 25mm tires just give me a better and more comfortable ride.
    Regards,

    Jed

  3. #28
    Senior Member OldsCOOL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    northern michigan
    My Bikes
    '88 Cannondale Criterium, Trek Pro Series
    Posts
    5,000
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Jed19 View Post
    Suppleness by itself is not a virtue. It has to be combined with decent/acceptable flat protection and ease of roll. The best tire I've ever rode on re suppleness are Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX. The problem is that they don't last long, and worse, they cut too easily. I always patch the cuts with Shoe Goo and also silicone RTV gels.

    So, suppleness, ease of roll, longevity and decent flat protection? Pick two. Or maybe three.

    I currently ride on Michelin Krylion Carbon 23mm, Conti 4000S 23mm and 25mm, and Conti 4000S II 25mm. And they are all decent tires, but I am through riding 23mm tires, as 25mm tires just give me a better and more comfortable ride.
    I'm still riding on Krylion's. Decent tires.
    Having a flat tire as part of the total cycling experience is highly overrated. Knowing how to fix one quickly is not.

    '85 Trek 460 road racer

    '89 Raleigh Technium PRE

    '79 Motobecane Super Mirage

  4. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    182
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BoSoxYacht View Post
    i love PRO4 SC tires, but they are not durable. They are cheap, and they ride like butter, but they are not durable. I have accepted the qualities they have, and accepted the FACT that they aren't durable.

    The ride is just too good to hate their weakness.
    I totally agree. I don't have too much glass where I ride, but I noticed a significant uptick in the amount of nicks cut into the Pro4's compared to the GP4000's. Totally anecdotal, but it does seem that they're less durable.

  5. #30
    Senior Member shoota's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    My Bikes
    1987 Trek 560
    Posts
    3,362
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    they're good for wear but i like a more supple ride.
    If you want supple then go for the Pro4. And have fun with all the cuts, punctures, and high wear rate.
    2005 Cannondale six13 10s SRAM

  6. #31
    Thread Killer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Posts
    3,825
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The rub with TPI and casings is how it's counted and terminology.

    Generally, a bike tire casing is made of two plies, arranged on a bias to one another so the threads cross perpendicularly (i.e. bias ply). Those two plies, therefore, are the casing, and a count of threads per inch would include the number of threads in both the upper and lower plies.

    Now, it is known that Continental, for example, folds the casing back over itself so that at the tread center, there are actually three layers (original 110tpi casing layer plus the two overlapping ends of the 110tpi casing). This creates the carcass of what they call a 330tpi tire. Note the distinctions to be made between the terms ply, casing, layers and carcass.

    Most companies would report the TPI of tire as the casing count (i.e. the thread count of both plies), regardless of how many layers of casing used to create the carcass. Generally it's just a single layer, two-ply casing, although Maxxis, for example, claim to use the count of a single ply (without specifying the number of layers used in the carcass.

    Adding layers of multi-ply casing to make the carcass (and get extraordinary clincher TPI counts) does not enhance the suppleness of the tire, though it does help to increase resistance to puncture flats (all else being equal). If it were possible-- and it may be, for all I know-- a carcass of single layer of single ply 110tpi casing would be more flexible (i.e. supple) than a carcass of 3 layers of dual-ply 170tpi casing (or than 3 layers of single ply 110tpi casing for that matter).

    Furthermore, would a single ply 170tpi casing carcass with a dual ply puncture resistant belt (TPI unspecified) be more supple than a carcass of 3 layers of 110tpi casing (TPI measurement method-- i.e. single or dual ply casing-- unspecified)? Probably, if we presume the layers of puncture belts are not vulcanized to each other. But that's just conjecture on my part.

    Anyway, all of which is to explain why GP4kSIIs are not remarkably supple by most folks' measures as "330tpi" might suggest.
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  7. #32
    Beer >> Sanity bikerjp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Colorado
    My Bikes
    2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
    Posts
    3,449
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    tried the 23mm and 25mm and they're ok but not great.

    running a set of shwalbe durano s tires now and so far so good.

    not sure about wear yet.

    I run about 105/100psi. FWIW.
    I have schwalbe one tires right now and I do like them better than gp4000s though not sure about durability at this point. I run 90/100 give or take and weigh 200lbs.
    Climbs like a stone, descends like two...

  8. #33
    Senior Member Looigi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    7,327
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by shoota View Post
    If you want supple then go for the Pro4. And have fun with all the cuts, punctures, and high wear rate.
    That's what I do.
    Ride more. Fret less.

  9. #34
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    6
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjp View Post
    I have schwalbe one tires right now and I do like them better than gp4000s though not sure about durability at this point. I run 90/100 give or take and weigh 200lbs.
    I've never ridden on the Conti 4ks, even though most people I know swear by them. I currently use the Schwalbe Ones as well. I got them as an upgrade to the stock Bontrager R1s thanks to suggestions on one of the many tire threads here (pun intended). I'm impressed with the upgrade over the stock wheels. Finally all the attributes people throw about like supple, hugging the road, climbing, etc, started to make sense. My aim was to purchase something that would be considered a step above the Conti GPs but close in price. Perhaps, you should give them a shot. Wiggle was my source for them.

  10. #35
    Senior Member aubiecat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Alexander City, Alabama
    Posts
    372
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The only thing I want to be supple is *****. As for bike tires, right now I like the 4000S.

  11. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    484
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It's interesting what some experience with certain tires. Like I said, I'm over 2K miles on my Pro 4 set and so far, not one failure. They aren't looking heavily worn either. I ride a ton of crappy rodas here in Illinois with a ton of the usual garbage like cracks, holes, chip-seal and the like. Not problems yet.

    I read another post here about a fatal sidewall cut on a GP4000...just like mine. This is the primary reason why I won't go back to them anytime soon...

  12. #37
    Senior Member dralways's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    460
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

  13. #38
    Senior Member loimpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    My Bikes
    2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3; 2014 Cannondale Quick 4; 2014 Cannondale Crash 4 hi-mod
    Posts
    548
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by shoota View Post
    If you want supple then go for the Pro4. And have fun with all the cuts, punctures, and high wear rate.
    So wait, half this thread says the Pro4 is both supple *AND* long-wearing (without punctures) and you're saying the opposite??

    No way.

    Not here.

    Not on the BF!?!

    BTW, I'm surprised nobody mentioned the Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick. I ride with a guy who swears he gets 3,000 miles out of a set and will not use another tire until or unless they change them on him. (shrug)

    Amazon.com : Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick 150tpi Fold Tire : Bike Tires : Sports & Outdoors

  14. #39
    Senior Member shoota's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    My Bikes
    1987 Trek 560
    Posts
    3,362
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Well maybe they are using the Endurance Pro4, maybe I was just unlucky? These are all just opinions of course and as such they will vary. It's ok.
    2005 Cannondale six13 10s SRAM

  15. #40
    Upgrading my engine DXchulo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    5,636
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Nebby10 View Post
    I totally agree. I don't have too much glass where I ride, but I noticed a significant uptick in the amount of nicks cut into the Pro4's compared to the GP4000's. Totally anecdotal, but it does seem that they're less durable.
    I had a similar experience. I thought the Pro4s cut very easily. I really enjoyed them while they lasted, though.
    centuryperweek.blogspot.com

  16. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    My Bikes
    Roubaix SL4 Expert
    Posts
    2,330
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Pro4's are good for GP4000S haters. Until they realize the grass isn't always greener on the other side of the fence.

  17. #42
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Allen, TX
    My Bikes
    Look 585
    Posts
    1,307
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by datlas View Post
    Heretic!!

    You are probably over-inflating them btw.
    +1

  18. #43
    Senior Member halfspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    My Bikes
    are better than yours.
    Posts
    11,188
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dunbar View Post
    Pro4's are good for GP4000S haters. Until they realize the grass isn't always greener on the other side of the fence.
    I don't hate GP4000s, they're just meh. I don't use Pro4s either, though.
    Telemachus has, indeed, sneezed.

  19. #44
    bt
    bt is offline
    Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    991
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by halfspeed View Post
    I don't hate GP4000s, they're just meh. I don't use Pro4s either, though.
    this

  20. #45
    Come on you Spurs! renton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    My Bikes
    Trek 2.1, BMC Roadracer SL01
    Posts
    656
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Smokehouse View Post
    250 miles into the new set, fatal sidewall cut. Looked up these tires and it seems sidewall cuts are common.
    That is exactly why I switched to Pro 4s.
    I liked the Contis but out of 6 tires two had side wall problems in the first 100km.
    2010 Trek 2.1 [105]
    2011 BMC Roadracer SL01 [Ultegra]
    2012 Cannondale CAADX [105]
    2013 Ridley X-Night [Ultegra]

    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a...efghij&z=a.gif

  21. #46
    Senior Member edgamar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    My Bikes
    2010 Fuji SL 1
    Posts
    63
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Happy with my GP4000s after 1k miles. Had them on my previous wheels and now ridding my Reynolds with them...

  22. #47
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    697
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm curious what you guys are running over to get sidewall cuts so frequently? I've taken my GP4000s on gravel/mud/dirt paths and haven't had any issues in 3000+ miles

  23. #48
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    484
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
    I'm curious what you guys are running over to get sidewall cuts so frequently? I've taken my GP4000s on gravel/mud/dirt paths and haven't had any issues in 3000+ miles
    Nothing out of the normal...I actually noticed the cut in mine last summer 30 miles into a 100K. The tube was bulging out of the slice and hadn't failed yet. Stopped at a friend's house and had to line the tire inside/out with duct tape to finish the ride.

  24. #49
    Thread Killer
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Posts
    3,825
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Smokehouse View Post
    Nothing out of the normal...I actually noticed the cut in mine last summer 30 miles into a 100K. The tube was bulging out of the slice and hadn't failed yet. Stopped at a friend's house and had to line the tire inside/out with duct tape to finish the ride.
    It would be out of the normal for me and the cyclists I know. I've never had a sidewall cut in my entire life (at least since '86), but I'm mostly paved, a rural/urban mix, and our dirt roads are really dirt, like hardpack. Sometimes there's loose gravel, but it's just sitting on top, it's not like a gravel road where the rocks are the road bed and surface as I've seen in some places. Is it those kinds of gravel roads you ride that give cuts?
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  25. #50
    bt
    bt is offline
    Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    991
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    sidewall cuts are from not watching where you're going.

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •