Upgrade or replace??
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Upgrade or replace??
I have an old 2000 Cannondale R300. Its a mix of Tiagra and Sora components (all original) with CAAD3 Frame.
The cassette is rusted (just took it a part for a good cleaning) but the teeth are clean (and a little worn). The crank... I just noticed the large ring is bent slightly in one spot that causes chain rub on the front derailleur. Frame is in good condition, there are a few dents and dings but no rust at all.
Im a long time runner and just getting into multisport and loving it!! I do about 100miles a week while training and so far she seems to be holding up just fine. I just feel like she is holding me back to some extent. shifting isn't all that smooth, lots of chain rub (tweeked derailleurs quite a bit with no change), slugs on hills (or maybe thats just my legs... no... has to be the bike! Ha!), etc.
So the question is... Upgrade this frame or call it a good run at 14 yrs and find a new model?
here are the options I am considering.
My budget for anything is a hard max of $1000. if I go with the upgrades, it will be gradual... Groupset now and wheels later.
if I go new... I am looking at one of the 2 (unless someone has another epic idea).
I have been watching craigslist and unless something amazing pops up, I would rather go with a new bike over something used if a replacement is the right direction.
Anyway, before I drop any more coin on this girl, I figured I would get some opinions from the masses.
Thanks in advance!
The cassette is rusted (just took it a part for a good cleaning) but the teeth are clean (and a little worn). The crank... I just noticed the large ring is bent slightly in one spot that causes chain rub on the front derailleur. Frame is in good condition, there are a few dents and dings but no rust at all.
Im a long time runner and just getting into multisport and loving it!! I do about 100miles a week while training and so far she seems to be holding up just fine. I just feel like she is holding me back to some extent. shifting isn't all that smooth, lots of chain rub (tweeked derailleurs quite a bit with no change), slugs on hills (or maybe thats just my legs... no... has to be the bike! Ha!), etc.
So the question is... Upgrade this frame or call it a good run at 14 yrs and find a new model?
here are the options I am considering.
- Give her a new 105 groupset
- give her new, lighter wheels
- get a new bike
My budget for anything is a hard max of $1000. if I go with the upgrades, it will be gradual... Groupset now and wheels later.
if I go new... I am looking at one of the 2 (unless someone has another epic idea).
- Fuji Roubaix 1.3 C Road Bike - 2013 - End of season Fuji Savings up to $1800 Off
- Fuji Roubaix 1.0 LE Road Bike - 2013 Performance Exclusive - Racing Bikes
I have been watching craigslist and unless something amazing pops up, I would rather go with a new bike over something used if a replacement is the right direction.
Anyway, before I drop any more coin on this girl, I figured I would get some opinions from the masses.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by BuckRider; 06-16-14 at 09:07 PM.
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Another option - try to find a used ten speed groupset, at least the shifters, crankset and derailleurs. Check among riders/tri folks and at your LBS. A lot of folks are upgrading to 11 speed and getting rid of their ten speed stuff relatively cheaply. Have the stuff installed at your LBS, so it'll probably be done right. Then save for a dedicated tri bike.
As for the 2013s, be aware that we're in the transition from 2014s to 2015s, so those bikes are two model years old.
As for the 2013s, be aware that we're in the transition from 2014s to 2015s, so those bikes are two model years old.
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Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
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Another option - try to find a used ten speed groupset, at least the shifters, crankset and derailleurs. Check among riders/tri folks and at your LBS. A lot of folks are upgrading to 11 speed and getting rid of their ten speed stuff relatively cheaply. Have the stuff installed at your LBS, so it'll probably be done right. Then save for a dedicated tri bike.
As for the 2013s, be aware that we're in the transition from 2014s to 2015s, so those bikes are two model years old.
As for the 2013s, be aware that we're in the transition from 2014s to 2015s, so those bikes are two model years old.
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Tiagra group and wheels from Ribble maybe? But I'd lean towards new bike.
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
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I'd go with a new bike. Replacing the drive train and group set on such an old frame isn't worthwhile. See if you can find any leftovers in the local bike shops or search fleabay or craigslist for a good deal. Be patient. Any if you're good at wrenching and can find a frame and used components, you'll probably same a bunch. Worry about upgrading the wheels later.
#10
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Agree ^^
Not to mention the handle bar size limits due to the quill stem.
Keep it as a backup, and get a modern frame/bike.
Not to mention the handle bar size limits due to the quill stem.
Keep it as a backup, and get a modern frame/bike.
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Get a new bike and keep the old bike as a backup, beater, and/or cafe runner/commuter. If the cables and housing are original to the bike, putting some new ones on may help clean up the shifting; also check that the derailer hanger is straight and you don't have any gunk in the cable guides under the bb.
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Budget smudget...you my friend are in the 41..show a little pride
take out a second or even mortgage already
get this and have a little pride when you go riding.
[h=2]SuperSix EVO Black Inc. $13,000[/h]
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. - SUPERSIX EVO - Elite Race - ROAD - BIKES - 2014
take out a second or even mortgage already
get this and have a little pride when you go riding.
[h=2]SuperSix EVO Black Inc. $13,000[/h]
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. - SUPERSIX EVO - Elite Race - ROAD - BIKES - 2014
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Budget smudget...you my friend are in the 41..show a little pride
take out a second or even mortgage already
get this and have a little pride when you go riding.
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. $13,000
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. - SUPERSIX EVO - Elite Race - ROAD - BIKES - 2014
take out a second or even mortgage already
get this and have a little pride when you go riding.
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. $13,000
SuperSix EVO Black Inc. - SUPERSIX EVO - Elite Race - ROAD - BIKES - 2014
HAHA! Thats just ridiculous. Me riding that bike is like putting a Honda Civic engine in a Ferrari.
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ok guys, new bike it is... which one?
Performance Bike - Product Comparison
important Differences that I can see:
Brakes - 105 (1.3) vs R340 (1.0)
Cassette - 105 (1.3) vs Tiagra (1.0)
Crankset - Oval 730 (1.3) vs Oval 520 (1.0)
Fork - Carbon/Alloy (1.3) vs Full Carbon (1.0)
is the Roubaix 1.0 worth the extra $100 over the Roubaix 1.3?
Performance Bike - Product Comparison
important Differences that I can see:
Brakes - 105 (1.3) vs R340 (1.0)
Cassette - 105 (1.3) vs Tiagra (1.0)
Crankset - Oval 730 (1.3) vs Oval 520 (1.0)
Fork - Carbon/Alloy (1.3) vs Full Carbon (1.0)
is the Roubaix 1.0 worth the extra $100 over the Roubaix 1.3?
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Your link is showing the Roubaix 1.3 (2013) @ $899 and the Roubaix 1.0 (2014) @ $1,000. Between the two, the 1.3 has better components minus $100 if still available at that price. If dealing local, see if the shop will match it.
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Yah, I'd just save the $100... The more expensive bike has lower tier cassette and brakes but a fork with carbon steerer whereas the less expensive bike has better cassette and brakes but an alloy steerer on the fork. The alloy steerer is heavier but less likely to be damaged by overtightening the stem on it. People say the 105 brake calipers are much less flexy than the Tektro ones.
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I love my 2013 Roubaix. At 19 pounds it's maybe 3-4 pounds heavier than bikes costing 3-4k more, but I guarantee you won't find better value in an alu-frame with a full 105 set-up. In 2014, Fuji started cost-cutting and introducing lower-end components on the same models, so they aren't as competitive as some of the other bargain brands out there like Diamondback, GT, etc.
After 400+ miles, this bike has been pretty bomb proof. I'm 6'3", 205 pounds and I can generate decent tork. I haven't detected any flex in the wheels or anywhere else concerning and yet it's still a very compliant, comfortable ride while also being very agile, stabile and responsive. I really don't think you could find a better training and/or beer league racing bike for the money (under $1000).
I've even been struggling to find a wheel upgrade that makes sense in the $1000 price range and it's practically impossible. The Oval 327 rims it comes with are not only aero, but durable as well, even with only a 20/24 spoke set-up (they use the same wheels on some of their cross bikes) . They supposedly weight around 1950 without tubes/tires, but I have not been able to find a strong wheel set that would save me much weight
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I'll take "New Bike for $1000" Alex.
Either repair her old bike with budget parts(to use as a rain/winter bike), or fix it well enough to sell.
Either repair her old bike with budget parts(to use as a rain/winter bike), or fix it well enough to sell.
#21
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I've been seeing some monster deals on craigslist, lately:
Orbea onix 57cm
55 CM Kestrel Talon Carbon Bike
*+*+* SPECIALIZED ROUBAIX - CARBON - XXL - 61CM *+*+*
Seems like you can get something nice in your price range.
I didn't really check all the specs or bluebook, but it's a general idea with a quick search.
S
Orbea onix 57cm
55 CM Kestrel Talon Carbon Bike
*+*+* SPECIALIZED ROUBAIX - CARBON - XXL - 61CM *+*+*
Seems like you can get something nice in your price range.
I didn't really check all the specs or bluebook, but it's a general idea with a quick search.
S
#22
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wow, I'm so glad Tampa is about 12+ hours drive away from me because I think I would throw that guy $850 for that Orbea if I was close.
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so I finally decided against a new bike and purchased an entire 105 groupset (10sp). I was able to get the whole thing shipped for $460.
now that I have it one, the difference is amazing! might as well be a new bike! over all the bike dropped 5lbs (couldnt believe it) and rides so much better!
now I am in the market for new wheels (sub $500) here are a couple options I am looking at. thoughts?
EA90 RT Easton EA90 RT Wheelset - Dura-Ace Freehub 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles
Campagnolo Zonda https://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/
now that I have it one, the difference is amazing! might as well be a new bike! over all the bike dropped 5lbs (couldnt believe it) and rides so much better!
now I am in the market for new wheels (sub $500) here are a couple options I am looking at. thoughts?
EA90 RT Easton EA90 RT Wheelset - Dura-Ace Freehub 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles
Campagnolo Zonda https://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/
#24
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I'd pass on the 'Dura Ace only'...if that's correct.
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
Last edited by dtrain; 08-01-14 at 02:57 PM.
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The Easton spec is a little confusing, the only recent hub which Shimano has made which had limits on what cassettes you could fit was the 7850 series (several years OOP), these were limiting to 10 speed cassettes, not a specific
cassette, would contact CRC for clarification on what they mean before ordering.
For the Campag, the Shimano version is OOS for the next few weeks.