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  1. #1
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    Upgrade wheels for a nine speed

    Im new to the site and i just picked up my first road bike. I went an got a new 2014 Trek 1.2 the bike fits me great and im able to ride right along people that have been in the sport for sometime now. Coming from a distance running background I think its helped. I have had the bike since Tuesday and have put on 126 miles since. I absolutely love this sport. Its really really big here where I live in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
    This may be the wrong section for this but im not familiar on how this board works. so pardon me if i post in the wrong area.
    Anyways, I have been looking into new wheels as I fell the rotating mass of the bontrager "approved" wheels are a little heavy.I am doing a 58 miler in Eureka springs in august and im wanting to have as much advantage in the climbs as possible. Everyone has said wheels wheels wheels with a low resistance tire will be all i need for qiuite a while. Its a 9 spd cassette and I'm having issues figuring out what i can actually use.

    any info would be much much appreciated! thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Most any new wheel will take a 9 speed cassette. But as a new rider you will make huge gains from fitness and experience. New wheels will make a small difference in comparison. Spend your money on things you will notice: good clothing, shoes, saddle, extra bottles, tools etc...
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  3. #3
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    For climbing, I'd go with Zipp 202's or Hed Ardennes

  4. #4
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    Not trying to sound elitist, but the Trek 1.2 is not a bike to be spending wheel money on. You sound as if you will be "outgrowing" that bike by next year. Save your money for the full bike upgrade.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

  5. #5
    Senior Member datlas's Avatar
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    Agree, ride it like crazy and upgrade in a year or two if you have the money.
    Quote Originally Posted by RUOkie View Post
    never underestimate the idiocy of BF.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    Not trying to sound elitist, but the Trek 1.2 is not a bike to be spending wheel money on.
    The bike is fine. But a guy who's been riding for one week doesn't need to upgrade anything yet, much less wheels. Once again, in the words of the Man.................

    "Don't buy upgrades; Ride up grades." Eddy Merckx

  7. #7
    don't try this at home. rm -rf's Avatar
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    The difference with lighter wheels will be subtle. And good wheels are expensive.

    You would see a slightly faster acceleration (and faster deceleration when coasting!) A little quicker response when steering. A few seconds faster on a climb.

    Two full water bottles (about 44 ounces) is 2.8 pounds. New wheels might drop one pound. Can you tell a difference when climbing when your bottles are empty or full? Not without a stopwatch.

    For example, this bike speed calculator, taking the defaults but changing to a 5% grade and riding the drops, calculates that a 157 pound rider with 3 extra pounds would be .1 mph slower on the climb. For a one mile, 260 foot climb, that's 6 seconds faster at 7.7 mph instead of 7.6 mph (a time of 4 minutes 41 seconds).

    A better fix would be some good tires to replace the stock tires that came with your bike. I use Continental GP4000 tires. They have lower rolling resistance, soak up rough roads, and have very good grip when cornering. Oh, and they are lighter weight, too. You'll actually notice a difference.
    Last edited by rm -rf; 07-01-14 at 06:57 AM.

  8. #8
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    I have a 2013 Trek 1.2 and got Vuelta Cora Lite wheels from Nashbar for under 200 bucks. They save over 1lb over the stock wheels. I don't know how much the weight saves on the road but the bike is lighter while carrying it up to my apartment!

  9. #9
    Senior Member datlas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
    The difference with lighter wheels will be subtle. And good wheels are expensive.

    You would see a slightly faster acceleration (and faster deceleration when coasting!) A little quicker response when steering. A few seconds faster on a climb.

    Two full water bottles (about 44 ounces) is 2.8 pounds. New wheels might drop one pound. Can you tell a difference when climbing when your bottles are empty or full? Not without a stopwatch.

    For example, this bike speed calculator, taking the defaults but changing to a 5% grade and riding the drops, calculates that a 157 pound rider with 3 extra pounds would be .1 mph slower on the climb. For a one mile, 260 foot climb, that's 6 seconds faster at 7.7 mph instead of 7.6 mph (a time of 4 minutes 41 seconds).

    A better fix would be some good tires to replace the stock tires that came with your bike. I use Continental GP4000 tires. They have lower rolling resistance, soak up rough roads, and have very good grip when cornering. Oh, and they are lighter weight, too. You'll actually notice a difference.
    +1 on new tires. Agree with GP4000s unless road conditions are harsh. Mail order from UK sites saves money.
    Quote Originally Posted by RUOkie View Post
    never underestimate the idiocy of BF.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the input guys! I do agree on not upgrading this bike to much as it is just a starter bike for me... I was bitten by the full carbon rides yesterday when i tested a 2012 Felt F5. That bike is amazing. I have been seriously considering selling this already and upgrading to something along those lines. The felt is New ata local shop and they only want $1400 for it....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
    Most any new wheel will take a 9 speed cassette. But as a new rider you will make huge gains from fitness and experience. New wheels will make a small difference in comparison. Spend your money on things you will notice: good clothing, shoes, saddle, extra bottles, tools etc...
    I have already picked up all of this stuff mentioned above....I went "balls deep" lol

  12. #12
    Senior Member seymour1910's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
    Thanks for all the input guys! I do agree on not upgrading this bike to much as it is just a starter bike for me... I was bitten by the full carbon rides yesterday when i tested a 2012 Felt F5. That bike is amazing. I have been seriously considering selling this already and upgrading to something along those lines. The felt is New ata local shop and they only want $1400 for it....
    then there you have it, save all your monry and just get a better bike. Use July to train as much as possible then just go into August ready to ride.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
    I was bitten by the full carbon rides yesterday when i tested a 2012 Felt F5. That bike is amazing. I have been seriously considering selling this already and upgrading to something along those lines. The felt is New ata local shop and they only want $1400 for it....
    An F5 will not make you any faster, just $1400 poorer. Put some quality (IE not cheapo) 25c tires on your Trek and you'll be surprised at how smooth an aluminum ride can be. After you get a few thousand miles under your belt you'll have a much better idea about what you really want to upgrade to. You've only been riding a week, man. Slooow down.

  14. #14
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    I was given some great info today by a friend of mine who is a an avid racer and mechanic in Texas... He explained to me that a lower grade $1800-around 3K bike is not going to much better than any than a Higher end aluminum frame like What Trek uses. Apparently there is a reason the price jumped almot $375 since the last years model. The Alpha Aluminum is awesome he says and will ride better than anything mentioned in the above price range with the exception of the F5 as it was the team edition with a shorter wheels base and a few other things besides the group sets. He said make the bike more aggressive and see what happens. So he did me a huge favor and called my local Trek shop and explained to them a few things.. What that was, im not to sure of but..LOL whatever they talked about really helped. I went in and they put my bike up on the cyclops machine and went to fitting again. They lowered the handle bar setting all the way to the head tube and kept playing with my saddle adjustments. It feel like a completely different machine now. I felt like i was able to use more of my power in my strokes and it actually proved it. (Well i think) haha I went on a quick five mile ride and actually gained a 2mph faster average pace than anytime i had ever ridden the bike. going from 15mph to 17 or so just cruising was nice to see.

    So with all that said.. I am very very happy with my bike and will not be upgrading just to have a carbon frame until I am ready to spenf upwords of 4 grand
    I was given a few suggested upgrades to do tha will make the bike perform alittle better so i may give those a shot. I am going to get an ultegra brake set new tires and possibly a set of mavicks depending on the way it feels after the tires to give the bike a different feel in the corners. I was also invited this weekby a few people to come out the the local Criterium circuit that is held once a week here in town. SO Im sure brakes and tires will be worth it.

    My biggest weight advantage thoug....Is im skinny.. haha Im skinny! im 6ft and weigh 145lbs but i can lift almost double my doy weight with my legs in certain movements.:0

  15. #15
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    Smart decision. If you start riding with a group you'll see how it would suck to have some expensive carbon bike and get dropped by everyone because you're a newb and how cool is is to ride an inexpensive aluminum bike and drop guys with the latest and greatest $4000 ride that weighs 12 pounds with electronic shifting, disc brakes and wheels that cost more than your entire bike.

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