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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Bike/components for hilly 90-120 miles per week

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Old 07-09-14, 04:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ajtedd
wow! really usefull info there!

will follow these steps when i take it in to the shop and make sure i question their process.

currently using the standard compat fsa cranks that come on that model of boardman. would probably upgrade to 105 if i went the praxis/converter route. do i need to buy a bb as well as a converter? i am assuming yes although i do have limited insight.
Really depends what model FSA crank you have on the bike...be it BB30 or a standard external BSA style crank that is adapted to your BB30 with spacers. A picture of the left crank arm at the BB would confirm which model FSA crank you have.
If you go to the Praxis BB, you need the longer spindle GXP BSA style FSA crank...or say a DA or Ultegra crank. A BB30 specific crank has too short a spindle to mount to BB where the bearings are external to the BB shell.

To the uninitiated this stuff may seem a bit complicated but it really isn't. Yes, there are a lot of good options. The problem with most bike shops is not only expertise but time. It takes time and know how to set a BB30 and why so many creak. Done right, they don't creak, plain and simple. So many struggle with BB30 and therefore opt for a Praxis solution which has the bearings outside the BB shell and the BB is held in place with an expanding collet. A very clever design that simplifies installation. But it isn't better than BB30 in the sense that the bearings are smaller, the BB weighs more, the bearings are sealed and non serviceable...both good and bad...and it costs more. You can go many thousands of miles with a couple of sets of BB30 bearings which are less than 10 buxs each and a bottle of Loctite and can of alcohol to make sure adequate bonding takes place.
All about choices. As to which Loctite...609 is good, but any of the green serviceable Loctite designed for bearing bores works fine.
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Old 07-09-14, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ajtedd
"chris king", noted, i will have a look later this evening. thanks for your help - do you have any experience with bb30's or conversion kits at all?
No personal experience with the stuff, but I know a lot of people complain about the noise. I just read in a mountain bike mag how they abused a Chris King bb30 set-up and it stayed quiet and smooth. I would also trust Chris King products in general, but it seems Campag4life has the information you're seeking.
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Old 07-10-14, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Really depends what model FSA crank you have on the bike...be it BB30 or a standard external BSA style crank that is adapted to your BB30 with spacers. A picture of the left crank arm at the BB would confirm which model FSA crank you have.
If you go to the Praxis BB, you need the longer spindle GXP BSA style FSA crank...or say a DA or Ultegra crank. A BB30 specific crank has too short a spindle to mount to BB where the bearings are external to the BB shell.

To the uninitiated this stuff may seem a bit complicated but it really isn't. Yes, there are a lot of good options. The problem with most bike shops is not only expertise but time. It takes time and know how to set a BB30 and why so many creak. Done right, they don't creak, plain and simple. So many struggle with BB30 and therefore opt for a Praxis solution which has the bearings outside the BB shell and the BB is held in place with an expanding collet. A very clever design that simplifies installation. But it isn't better than BB30 in the sense that the bearings are smaller, the BB weighs more, the bearings are sealed and non serviceable...both good and bad...and it costs more. You can go many thousands of miles with a couple of sets of BB30 bearings which are less than 10 buxs each and a bottle of Loctite and can of alcohol to make sure adequate bonding takes place.
All about choices. As to which Loctite...609 is good, but any of the green serviceable Loctite designed for bearing bores works fine.
Thanks campag, i will take a picture later this afternoon and post here.

I think i will try lochtite and follow the process you previously suggested before going down the praxis route. i do have a 105 crank sat in a box at home so all i need to get is the converter itself.

the fsa adapter / fsa converter has also been suggested to me on another forum. any thoughts? would i need a compatible bb for that one?
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Old 07-10-14, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ajtedd
Thanks campag, i will take a picture later this afternoon and post here.

I think i will try lochtite and follow the process you previously suggested before going down the praxis route. i do have a 105 crank sat in a box at home so all i need to get is the converter itself.

the fsa adapter / fsa converter has also been suggested to me on another forum. any thoughts? would i need a compatible bb for that one?
Devil is in the details OP. Options abound. So to address any particular combination you want, you need to address specifics.
As to any sort of FSA adapter and/or converter, go to the other forum and ask for a specific model of adapter...what precisely they are talking about. Model numbers help. Also, as previously stated, we need to know precisely which model FSA crank you have...is it BB30 specific aka short spindle or GXP and designed for an external bearing threaded BB?
We have established you have BB30. But need to know what model crank you have and then from there, options will be clear.
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Old 07-10-14, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by big john
No personal experience with the stuff, but I know a lot of people complain about the noise. I just read in a mountain bike mag how they abused a Chris King bb30 set-up and it stayed quiet and smooth. I would also trust Chris King products in general, but it seems Campag4life has the information you're seeking.
Your post underscores just how little is understood by the average bike rider. To my knowledge, could be wrong as Chris King is constantly changing their product mix, Chris King doesn't offer a BB30 solution. He may sell BB30 bearings but so do many different companies. Where Chris King sets themselves apart is with PF-30. PF-30 isn't the same as BB30. Many do like Chris King's BB for PF-30...including converting a GXP crank to PF30 with his adapters which are about the same as what is sold by Wheel Mfg.
See his chart below. Note that PF30 uses a BB30 crank...or can be converted to a longer GXP spindle crank.
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Chris King PF30.jpg (81.4 KB, 7 views)
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Old 07-16-14, 06:56 AM
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To those interested, I have decided to go for the fsa converter, ultegra bb and 105 cranks - managed to get a good dealio hence the mix and match shimano components. It is in the shop today, will be finished tomorrow. I will report back and let you know how it goes!

If I still have issues, I am going to try either the wheels bb30 adaptor or praxis works adapter.
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Old 07-16-14, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ajtedd
thanks for the pointers. i have seen several different types of lochtite suggested. is there a definitive/specific type that is best?
I used Loctite 641 retaining compound while installing pressfit bb's, for the bearing cups to frame interface. So far no creaks.

Last edited by kleng; 07-16-14 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 07-16-14, 03:46 PM
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My Focus has a BB30. It had a little noise in the very beginning and at @1500mi the creaking got bad. I pulled the bearings out, cleaned everything real good then put the bearings and crank in the freezer. Packed the shell with Park grease, popped the frozen bearings in (easily), waited until they warmed up and expanded in the shell then installed the crank. About 2400mi later and there hasn't been a peep from it. You have to make sure the crank bolt is at the proper torque. Too tight will cause bad creaking as I learned.
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