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Thread: Campy Nightmare

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    1coolrider arcticbiker's Avatar
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    Campy Nightmare

    I've been riding Campy since 1963 and have continued to do so until now! I own and ride Shimano and SRAM but prefer Campy.

    My problem is a typical complaint regarding the UT crank making clicking, groaning or other bothersome noises. I have two UT cranks and have had no problems for years until now.
    I've tried all the standard solutions and some non standard ones to no avail. I replaced the bearings, etc. I won't go into the excrutiating details except to say I've removed and re-installed it 3 times in the last week. The BB shell meets specs.

    Now I've finally decided to do the unthinkable, switch to another brand. I'm wondering if anyone has tried a SRAM crank (probably Red) using a Campy 10 speed chain. Or anyone use the TA Alize rings. If I use the SRAM, will I need the SRAM FD?

    BTW, I'm running Chorus 10 speed on this bike.

    Thanks!
    Arcticbiker

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    PM @Campag4life. He should be able to help you.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

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    Bridge Burner RollCNY's Avatar
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    Usually PT are the noisy ones, and not UT. My PT crank was insanely noisy until I loosened and retightened the chain ring bolts. Then all better.

    Anyway, the SRAM 10 speed crank will work fine with your system, and you don't need to do anything with your FD.

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    1coolrider arcticbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    PM @Campag4life. He should be able to help you.
    Thanks! I'll give it a shot.
    Arcticbiker

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    1coolrider arcticbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RollCNY View Post
    Usually PT are the noisy ones, and not UT. My PT crank was insanely noisy until I loosened and retightened the chain ring bolts. Then all better.

    Anyway, the SRAM 10 speed crank will work fine with your system, and you don't need to do anything with your FD.
    I've got a PT crank waiting for me to install it on another bike. We'll see how it goes. And yes, I greased and retightened the chainring bolts to no avail.
    Arcticbiker

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    has a Large Member Campag4life's Avatar
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    Artic,
    I didn't really follow your PM but what you posted above is a bit more clear.
    First identify what bike you have.

    I presume the bike has an English or Italian threaded BB and you are using Campy threaded cups with UT.

    (note: I suggest you do NOT install your PowerTorque crank and ebay it. I don't like the design but others have them on the forum and some don't complain much about them)

    Contrary to what you write, UT is one of the most problem free cranks on the planet. Yes, some do click but as with BB30, this is based upon how they are installed.

    First take Roll's good advice. Remove chain ring bolts, clean the rings, grease bolt threads and reassemble to torque spec. Park sells a little tool to hold the back of the slotted bolts while you torque the Torx bolts. Ride the bike and see if it still clicks.

    If it still clicks and you are sure its the crank and not your saddle or seat post....ride the bike out of the saddle to determine this...then the crank must come off. Also remove the threaded cups, clean the threads, and smear light grease on both BB female threads and cup male threads and reassemble. Generally if there is clicking it is the cups and grease and proper torque quiet them.

    When you install the crank, put a liberal amount of grease on the bearings...pack the backside of the bearings as well with grease...and a light coat inside the cups. Important. Prior to installation, use mineral spirits and a tooth brush to thoroughly clean the hirth joint interface. This joint must be immaculate. You can also place a light coat of grease on the joint prior to assembly. I have done it both ways and some believe this takes all the tolerance out and is quieter. If you have the right BB shell width i.e. your wave washer has a hint of compression, it should be dead silent. Mine always has been. Also check your pedals. Pedals require maintenance as well...or can...my Speedplays do and pedal bearings can wear as well and creak. Also check the clips on your shoes.

    To me UT cranks are about as good as it gets when installed on a threaded BB. Now with the new Praxis conversion BB, Campy lovers can adapt UT cranks to BB/PF30 framesets as well which really changes things for the better as previously Campy cranks didn't mount very well to BB/PF30.

    HTH

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    1coolrider arcticbiker's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. I sent you a PM before I saw this.

    I installed as you describe above, greased and re torqued the chainrings, cleaned and greased the hirth joint. We'll see how it goes.
    Arcticbiker

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    has a Large Member Campag4life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticbiker View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I sent you a PM before I saw this.

    I installed as you describe above, greased and re torqued the chainrings, cleaned and greased the hirth joint. We'll see how it goes.
    Might as well keep the conversation public. Read your PM. Don't use Loctite or even antiseize paste on cup threads. Use grease throughout.

    In response to your PM...don't give up on your UT crank. You have a much greater chance of keeping an UT crank quiet than a myriad of other cranks you may consider for the simple fact that an UT is the most solid and most simple design. It may even be your pedals...or your seat post if you haven't done the out of saddle test. As to mounting a Sram crank...pretty much any late model GXP style crank will mount to your bike. But I wouldn't give up on your UT. Remove the pedals and stick some platforms on it and try to make it creak out of the saddle.

    You will solve this and likely without replacing the crank if you do your homework.
    Good luck.

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    Another possibility is the front end. I have had clicking in phase with pedaling that was due to rocking the bars back and forth. Cleaning and reinstalling the head set was necessary. That can be check by riding no hands for a short bit.
    Robert

    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." (Bob Seger, "Against the Wind")

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    Bridge Burner RollCNY's Avatar
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    And not to be overly simple, but make sure your rear skewer is tight. That can lead to a clicking that can drive you insane. One of my cohort tore his pedals and BB apart three times, and finally found a loose rear skewer.

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    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    ^^ Same with the front skewer.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

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    1coolrider arcticbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Campag4life View Post
    Might as well keep the conversation public. Read your PM. Don't use Loctite or even antiseize paste on cup threads. Use grease throughout.

    In response to your PM...don't give up on your UT crank. You have a much greater chance of keeping an UT crank quiet than a myriad of other cranks you may consider for the simple fact that an UT is the most solid and most simple design. It may even be your pedals...or your seat post if you haven't done the out of saddle test. As to mounting a Sram crank...pretty much any late model GXP style crank will mount to your bike. But I wouldn't give up on your UT. Remove the pedals and stick some platforms on it and try to make it creak out of the saddle.

    You will solve this and likely without replacing the crank if you do your homework.
    Good luck.
    I did as you suggested using only grease and no loctite. The first two times I re-assembled the crank, the noise abated for about 30-35 miles then rumble started up again. The first time I noticed a problem the noise was a regular click on the drive side pedal position of 6. This noise disappeared after the first rebuild with the new bearings.

    Today at after the third rebuild, the noise is gone for now. I only rode 37 miles so I'll need another test ride to be sure. I've become pretty good at disassembly and reassembly! I've got my fingers crossed.

    Thanks for the encouragement to stick it out!
    Arcticbiker

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    has a Large Member Campag4life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticbiker View Post
    I did as you suggested using only grease and no loctite. The first two times I re-assembled the crank, the noise abated for about 30-35 miles then rumble started up again. The first time I noticed a problem the noise was a regular click on the drive side pedal position of 6. This noise disappeared after the first rebuild with the new bearings.

    Today at after the third rebuild, the noise is gone for now. I only rode 37 miles so I'll need another test ride to be sure. I've become pretty good at disassembly and reassembly! I've got my fingers crossed.

    Thanks for the encouragement to stick it out!
    Good work!

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    Senior Member rousseau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticbiker View Post
    This noise disappeared after the first rebuild with the new bearings.
    I recently had a flare-up of creaking that I narrowed down to the Ultra-Torque bearings after eliminating the other possibilities. Best of luck on your trouble-shooting. I hope this works out for you.
    The pleasure is momentary, the position ridiculous, and the expense damnable.

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    Senior Member vwchad's Avatar
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    I had a creaking issue from a few sources on my UT crank. The first creak was resolved by removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the chainrings. Sounds like you've already done that. Things got quieter, but still had a creak. Unfortunately, my frame is BB30, so I was using the press in bearing cups from Campy. The drive side would actually work its way out a few thousandths of an inch. The noise was terrible. I pulled it apart again, cleaned it up, and installed the cups with some Loctite 609 retaining compound. Basically a sleeve retainer that can be disassebled if needed. Totally silent still after about 400 miles.

    I really like the UT design. I can have the cranks off in about 30 seconds, with one tool. It is by far my favorite crank design that I've used so far. Looks darn good as well. Don't give up on it, you'll sort it out.

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