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Help me spec my new ride (Road disc)!

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Help me spec my new ride (Road disc)!

Old 07-31-14, 11:13 AM
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Great notes so far.

Thanks all.
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Old 07-31-14, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jsigone
. Palomar Mt has something like 88 switch backs in 6.5 miles before it opens up to less braking turns.
Funny you should mention Palomar... This is the exact same Mtn Shimano did research and testing of their road hydros. With heavily weighted down riders no less. The system is legit. But time will tell.
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Old 08-01-14, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DinoShepherd
Funny you should mention Palomar... This is the exact same Mtn Shimano did research and testing of their road hydros. With heavily weighted down riders no less. The system is legit. But time will tell.
Palomar is a fun mt to play on but most of those corners down the south side are not forgiving past the railing. I'm about 200lbs and was on the brakes harder then normal cuz I was on my cx bike with 35c Sammy slicks. Knobby tires and heavy leaning probably doesn't bold too well. Rode up Nate Harrison grade, the 10% dirt way up I'm running SRAM Force with the bb7 160/140mm

I know the SRAM hydro system was recalled after UCI world CX race was done early this yr. The system saw failure in o rings and piston parts at or below freezing temps. Rumor has it the shimano system spent allot more time in r&d before going production. Which is a good thing IMO
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Old 08-05-14, 12:36 AM
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I pulled the trigger on a white Selle Italia Flite saddle (thx Wiggle).

For a groupset I am leaning Ultegra Di2 with the hydro levers but am having trouble tracking them down. Anyone using these?
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Old 08-07-14, 03:15 AM
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I have pretty much decided to go full hydraulic (with Shimano levers).

Anyone have experience with the Shimano brakes? Are there other options I should be looking at? Compatibility issues? I won't be using the Shimano rotors.
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Old 08-07-14, 04:06 AM
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I'm sure that Shimano has done their homework with regards to the hydraulic fluid but I wonder if something from the automotive world would make the system even more robust. Back when I was going to track days, I used Motul Dot5.1 fluid and that solved my issues with brake fluid boiling. It might be overkill for bikes but anything to avoid that oh sh*t moment when you grab the brakes and the lever goes to the bottom.
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Old 08-07-14, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DinoShepherd
Funny you should mention Palomar... This is the exact same Mtn Shimano did research and testing of their road hydros. With heavily weighted down riders no less. The system is legit. But time will tell.
Palomar is a bit out of the way for Shimano (as in, 6000 miles out of the way.) Don't they have plenty of switchback roads back in Japan?
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Old 08-07-14, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
I have pretty much decided to go full hydraulic (with Shimano levers).

Anyone have experience with the Shimano brakes? Are there other options I should be looking at? Compatibility issues? I won't be using the Shimano rotors.
If you are using 6 bolt hubs and rotors, make sure they are compatible. By this, I am referring to an issue that American Classic had with their Disc 130 hub (which I use on my commuter bike). Some rotors are designed with "fingers" that attach to the hub versus a more solid center flange. The finger-type design can cause the hub flange to crack. There is a workaround though: DISC|REINFORCING RING
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Old 08-07-14, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by joejack951
If you are using 6 bolt hubs and rotors, make sure they are compatible. By this, I am referring to an issue that American Classic had with their Disc 130 hub (which I use on my commuter bike). Some rotors are designed with "fingers" that attach to the hub versus a more solid center flange. The finger-type design can cause the hub flange to crack. There is a workaround though: DISC|REINFORCING RING
Thanks for that. I didn't know that existed.

Both the hubs and rotors I will use are products we sell so I am kind of locked into those. Based on our designs I don't think this should be an issue but I will certainly verify this before throwing a leg over the bike.
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Old 08-07-14, 11:33 AM
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BTW, you should also go tubeless tires, belt drive, and full suspension.
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Old 08-07-14, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by halfspeed
BTW, you should also go tubeless tires, belt drive, and full suspension.
Wheels are tubeless compatible, so there, Mr smartypants.
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Old 10-14-14, 09:51 PM
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Update:

Wheels have been built and new groupset just came through the door. So excited!!!


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Old 10-14-14, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Wheels are tubeless compatible, so there, Mr smartypants.
Right, but the real question is whether or not you're going to clay bar it.
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Old 10-14-14, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by halfspeed
Right, but the real question is whether or not you're going to clay bar it.
Clar bar it? I'm going to rock, paper scissors, lizard, Spock bar this mf.
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Old 10-15-14, 12:16 PM
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Going to be wonderful. Just re-read the thread, did you figure out your internal battery question? I was going to comment that if there is no adapter for it that many people (including myself until an adapter was made), simply bubble or foam wrapped the battery and stuck in the seat tube or seat post. As for Junction box B, I would recommend wrapping in a bit of bubble wrap with bands just to prevent annoying noises from inside the frame when it wiggles and jiggles and giggles inside it.
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Old 10-15-14, 12:18 PM
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Bob, is that a solid BB shell where you may have to put junction box below the BB (outside of frame), or are you able to work cables around the BB from the inside?
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Old 10-15-14, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by robbyville
Bob, is that a solid BB shell where you may have to put junction box below the BB (outside of frame), or are you able to work cables around the BB from the inside?
The tubes are hollow going into the BB shell so the junction box will be inside the frame.

The guys from SIMPSONVR have already suggested to me about wrapping the battery in foam. This seems to be a pretty standard go to at the moment.
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Old 10-15-14, 01:31 PM
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Good hear, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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