Help me spec my new ride (Road disc)!
#27
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Funny you should mention Palomar... This is the exact same Mtn Shimano did research and testing of their road hydros. With heavily weighted down riders no less. The system is legit. But time will tell.
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I know the SRAM hydro system was recalled after UCI world CX race was done early this yr. The system saw failure in o rings and piston parts at or below freezing temps. Rumor has it the shimano system spent allot more time in r&d before going production. Which is a good thing IMO
#29
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I pulled the trigger on a white Selle Italia Flite saddle (thx Wiggle).
For a groupset I am leaning Ultegra Di2 with the hydro levers but am having trouble tracking them down. Anyone using these?
For a groupset I am leaning Ultegra Di2 with the hydro levers but am having trouble tracking them down. Anyone using these?
#30
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I have pretty much decided to go full hydraulic (with Shimano levers).
Anyone have experience with the Shimano brakes? Are there other options I should be looking at? Compatibility issues? I won't be using the Shimano rotors.
Anyone have experience with the Shimano brakes? Are there other options I should be looking at? Compatibility issues? I won't be using the Shimano rotors.
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I'm sure that Shimano has done their homework with regards to the hydraulic fluid but I wonder if something from the automotive world would make the system even more robust. Back when I was going to track days, I used Motul Dot5.1 fluid and that solved my issues with brake fluid boiling. It might be overkill for bikes but anything to avoid that oh sh*t moment when you grab the brakes and the lever goes to the bottom.
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Palomar is a bit out of the way for Shimano (as in, 6000 miles out of the way.) Don't they have plenty of switchback roads back in Japan?
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Mr. Dopolina
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If you are using 6 bolt hubs and rotors, make sure they are compatible. By this, I am referring to an issue that American Classic had with their Disc 130 hub (which I use on my commuter bike). Some rotors are designed with "fingers" that attach to the hub versus a more solid center flange. The finger-type design can cause the hub flange to crack. There is a workaround though: DISC|REINFORCING RING
Both the hubs and rotors I will use are products we sell so I am kind of locked into those. Based on our designs I don't think this should be an issue but I will certainly verify this before throwing a leg over the bike.
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BTW, you should also go tubeless tires, belt drive, and full suspension.
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Going to be wonderful. Just re-read the thread, did you figure out your internal battery question? I was going to comment that if there is no adapter for it that many people (including myself until an adapter was made), simply bubble or foam wrapped the battery and stuck in the seat tube or seat post. As for Junction box B, I would recommend wrapping in a bit of bubble wrap with bands just to prevent annoying noises from inside the frame when it wiggles and jiggles and giggles inside it.
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Bob, is that a solid BB shell where you may have to put junction box below the BB (outside of frame), or are you able to work cables around the BB from the inside?
#42
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The guys from SIMPSONVR have already suggested to me about wrapping the battery in foam. This seems to be a pretty standard go to at the moment.
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