mn_voyageur

I have an old Trek 2200. The factory wheels are showing signs of age.

I would like to replace the rims, until I have time to replace the bike. (Probably next year.)

My thoughts were to buy replacement wheel set that will make it a year. Or buy a replacement wheel set that I could use with my next bike.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
MarkN

Clem von Jones

Mavic open sport rims with shimano tiagra hubs - good deal, lightweight, strong, traditional looking, also mavic open pro rims with shimano 105 hubs - a bit lighter. Easy to find pre-built sets online. I think they're assembled in Indonesia. It's a good idea to re-tension and regrease the hubs if you know how. Typically the bearings have inadequate grease and are too tight. Sometimes the spoke tension needs tweaking.

Bob Dopolina 

Is that 8-spd?

If so, you might have compatibility issues with frame spacing. That may only leave you with the option of replacing the rims.

Clem von Jones

I wouldn't worry about the spacing. Worst case: swap the free hub for the shorter version. No biggie. Shimano hub parts are easy to find.

eippo1

I think you're best bet is to go to your LBS and see what they can do for you. Unless you're far off the beaten path. Otherwise, I'd recommend Mavic Aksium wheels, but am unsure if you could space enough for 8 speed or if the dish would be all effed up. Hence, your LBS for better help.

Bob Dopolina 

It doesn't work that way.

You may be able to MacGiver something but you lose out on DS flange spacing in the process.

For the OP it may be better to stick with the same hub and just lace in new budget hoops for now. When a new frame or bike comes along in a year then start fresh with current spec and convert the old bike into a SS and use it for coffee runs.

gsa103

The main thing to check would be the drop-out spacing on your current bike. If its 130mm, basically any wheelset would work, if its 126mm, whatever wheels you get won't work with your new bike, unless you kludge something.

Ride the wheels into the ground (ie un-safe), and plan on buying a new bike when the wheels go. I would be hesitant to spend money re-build or buying a new wheelset that will last a year. If you ride 10k mi a year or build your own wheels, that shifts things obviously. Paying a shop isn't worth it though.

Bob Dopolina 

OP, what is your budget for now?

a1penguin

My Trek 2200 is 9 speed, which I believe is compatible with 10 speed. Will this become your spare/second bike or will you attempt to sell it? I don't know if wheels would be compatible with both 11 speed and 9 speed. No bike comes with really expensive wheels; a good number of people buy stock bike and immediate replace wheels. Perhaps you could find a set of take offs, or used wheels, that are reasonably priced.

Bob Dopolina 

Ah.

9spd is 130 OLD. You are good to go. In that case you can shop for wheels now and swap them over to whatever new bike comes next. I would order 10/11 spd wheels and just use the 10spd spacer for now.

mn_voyageur

Sorry for the delayed response. Work was overwhelming.

Budget is what it is. I am not in a position to make a judgement call on price. The budget is: Its a 20 year old bike! I think a set of Zipp 404s on a Trek 2200 would be noticed. I expect that my next bike will be in the $3K-$4K range.

The hubs on myTrek are Shimano 105s. I don't think there is a problem with them. Just a small crack in the left side of the front rim. I would think it wise to change the rim/wheel before riding in the HH100. (23AUG)

I have not trued a wheel in 15 years, or more. It sounds like a truing stand will be needed if I buy a rim or a wheel. (Suggestions?)

I was also waiting to stop by the LBS for my "bike fit." Yesterday, they made a few minor changes and I picked up 3 MPH on this morning's metric century.

While I was there, I asked about replacing my rims, they suggested not putting any money into my Trek and buying a new bike. Granted, the bike has a few miles on it, but I don't trade my car because the rims are rusty! I was not impressed equipment on the Cannondales. (Shram?)

I will either keep the bike or hand it down to a younger cyclist. (We have a new rider in our group.) I generally don't sell my stuff. I would rather find someone who will use it and give it to them.

I do have a relatively new compact crank and a cassette.

I will admit, the new Cannondales are nice, and lighter than mine. I thought going from my Bianchi to the Trek was a major improvement! (Well .... It was, two decades ago.)

Anyway, I was thinking about buying wheels that would work on either my Trek or my new bike. (My wife has approved my buying a new bike! That will be another thread. )

I don't have an aversion to buying rims and lacing the spokes myself, but I have heard horror stories from others.

So, what rims would you expect on a $3,500 bike? Or what rims would you use?

I appreciate everyone's patience.

MarkN

gsa103

Something like a Fulcrum 5 would be fairly typical (~1750g). You won't get ultra-light, but you'll a reliable decent performing wheel. Buying an equivalent wheelset is $250-$300.

bbattle

Bontrager Race would be a good wheelset for your Trek 2200. Not that expensive. Tons of Mavic Open Pro wheelsets on eBay.

Lots of options if you want a custom build. Somebody like Psimet could build you a wheelset using Kinlins, Stans, Pacenti, Hed, H+Son, Velocity, Mavic rims with whatever hubs and spokes you wanted.

I have the Bontrager Race wheels on my Domane 5.2. They are tubeless ready but I'm still using tubes. May go tubeless when it's time to get new tires.

mn_voyageur

How hard is it to build my own wheel?

BradH

Easy. I was in the same position as you once. I had a wheelset with one bad rim. I had never built a wheel before. I found a suitable replacement rim with the same number of spoke holes and the same or very close ERD. I taped the rims together and transferred one spoke at a time over to the new rim. Since then I have built several sets of wheels and acquired more tools (tension meter, dish gauge and so on). It's addicting & fun once you get the hang of it. It's also quite liberating. You don't have to rely on others to fix, true and build your wheels.

Bob Dopolina 

There are plenty of step by step guides available on line.

I would download Jobst Brants The Bicycle Wheels. Lots of great info there.

mn_voyageur

BradH

How do you measure ERD?

Bob

I could not locate a download of the book. I will order it, if a link is not available.

Since it is my front rim, I am going to replace my rim. I found the post: Tools and parts needed to replace a rear wheel. However, it did not mention "spoke wrench" or anything similar.

So, I will need a truing stand, spoke wrench, ....

I might want: tension meter, dish gauge, ...

Since I will be working on wheel, what grease do you use on the bearings?

My wheel has 32 spokes. If I keep my hub, should I replace my 20 year old spokes?

What else am I missing?

MarkN

BradH

Mark,

Everything I needed to get started was found here. Wheels I never bought a book.

If you have a rim sticker that is legible you might be able to just google "Rim X ERD". I did that and it worked. Your rim isn't by chance a Matrix ISO C II is it?

My first wheels were all 36 or 32 spoke with straight gauge spokes laced 3x. My spoke tension was measured by comparing my newly built wheels to known good wheels. After I obtained a tension meter I measured & adjusted my original builds. Surprisingly, my tensions were right on the money, only very minimal tweaking was done and by no means was required. On low spoke count wheels with Sapim Laser spokes I've built since then I've needed the tension meter to get things where they need to be. So in my experience a tension meter would not be needed to build one wheel, especially a front 32H with no dish.

I have a dish gauge now but the creative use of a flat counter, combination square and a couple wood blocks got me by just as accurately for a few wheels.

Unless there is obvious damage I'd reuse the spokes & nipples. I did this a couple times when I was learning with no ill effects. I still ride those wheels. As you gain confidence and build more wheels you'll want new stuff.

I use marine wheel bearing grease. Not because I think it's magic, I use it because I make a living in a boat.

Using the directions linked above I have not gone wrong.

Jiggle

ERD's are published. They will vary due to manufacturing variables but are close enough.

mn_voyageur

The rims are Matrix, but that's all I can determine. The sticker is wearing off.

mn_voyageur

If I am going to build a front wheel, might as well build it from scratch.

I am currently 225 lbs and falling.

So, if I stick with Shimano (not a requirement) my choices for hubs are 105 or Ultegra. ($30 v $55) What rims should I be considering?

hybridbkrdr

Rhyno lites are cheap at ebikestop but I don't know if it's compatible with a road bike.

EDIT: I just thought of one, the Velocity Deep V https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622
The Clydesdale forum might help for this.

BradH

Or Tiagra for under $20. I've used 105 and Ultegra too. All three are nice. All three need more grease than they come with and the cones adjusted. I'd try to match the color and rim profile of your rear.