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Campy UT Crank noise finally resolved

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Campy UT Crank noise finally resolved

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Old 08-27-14, 08:05 AM
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Campy UT Crank noise finally resolved

I have been struggling for months now with a bothersome noise from my UT crank. I posted my methodology to correct the problem previously in detail so I won't rehash it again. I did want to thank Campag4life and others for encouraging me to stick it out and find a solution.

After 5 rebuilds using all sorts of minor installation changes, I finally ordered a new set of cups, mounted them per factory specs ( except I removed the factory thread locker) and after 60 miles - total silence! Previous tests after rebuilds became noisy as soon as 1 mile.

I examined the original cups for wear or misalignment but could find nothing unusual.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-27-14, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by arcticbiker
I have been struggling for months now with a bothersome noise from my UT crank. I posted my methodology to correct the problem previously in detail so I won't rehash it again. I did want to thank Campag4life and others for encouraging me to stick it out and find a solution.

After 5 rebuilds using all sorts of minor installation changes, I finally ordered a new set of cups, mounted them per factory specs ( except I removed the factory thread locker) and after 60 miles - total silence! Previous tests after rebuilds became noisy as soon as 1 mile.

I examined the original cups for wear or misalignment but could find nothing unusual.

Thanks again.
Sometimes it turns out to be the simple, not so obvious stuff that has us stumped. Happy riding!
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Old 08-27-14, 09:05 AM
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Squeaky thread lock compound? Huh, wouldn't have occurred to me. Nice methodical work.
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Old 08-27-14, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Squeaky thread lock compound? Huh, wouldn't have occurred to me. Nice methodical work.
This stuff is nuanced and why so many issues exist you read about on the web. For example. Thread locker that comes on UT threaded cups should isolate the cups from squeaking right? Not always. Why? Because the thread locker will help retain torque and isolate the threaded cup from the BB shell thread...but not at the interfacing lip. So if a full 30 ft-lbs isn't applied to the cups, the cups shoulder can squeak on the BB face. Further, most don't have a socket for those cups to apply a torque wrench and they are frequently undertorqued.

So I like what the OP did and this is what I do with Campy UT. Wire brush off the Loctite and apply generic automotive grease to all interfacing thread and shoulder surfaces and torque to spec. They won't creak then...or haven't in my experience or others.
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