Bobwgilmour

Hi

I'm ordering the Giant Advanced 1 2015 when it becomes available and I have the choice whether to put 52/36 or 53/39 on it.

What factors should I be looking at when choosing?

I've ridden both over the last 6 months but haven't had a road bike since I was a teenager. I'm a weekend rider over all types of terrain including some biggish hills (I'm in Oregon). Looking to use the bike to build fitness and also to continue rehabilitation from soccer knee injury last year. I enjoy the slower cadence pedalling and am leaning towards the 53/39. But I'm 45 and getting older each year!

Any tips on how to choose are welcome.

Regards

Bob

dtrain

I think 52/36 is a great option. Get your cadence up for long-term knee health.

TrojanHorse

What kind of bike are you riding now and what kind of gearing does it have?

I'd go midcompact if it were me though.

Bobwgilmour

I've been riding a hybrid - not even sure what the gearing is on that - but not for the longer distances that I want to build up to with this bike. I've been building up to getting a road bike and have been borrowing and test riding over the last 6 months. I borrowed a 90s aluminium frame bike for a race that had 53/39 and loved the drive that I could still get on the flat and downward slopes at high speeds.

Bob

dtrain

You'll still have plenty of top-end speed with a 52/36...especially with an 11t (even 12 should be enough). I'd bet that bike you borrowed had a 12 or even a 13. The 36 vs. the 39 gives you a lot more flexibility for climbing; and there are some great climbs in Oregon.

TrojanHorse

I'd focus on making sure you have the right gearing for climbs... even with a full on compact crank, you won't spin out till you're in the high 30s. It's highly unlikely you'd notice the ever so slightly reduced top end with a 52 tooth chainring. So - if you get a standard crank, the smallest chainring you can ever put on it is a 38 tooth ring, whereas a compact crank with a 52/36 can be modified to a regular compact 50/34 by just switching out the chainrings.

Food for thought.

Jiggle

Is this the model with Ultegra 11 speed? If so, you can swap out inner rings for $20, unless it is a 42, in which case you have to buy the Dura Ace at $50.

I've never used an inner ring under 39 that I liked. The 25 and 28 tooth cassettes mean I have to go under 9 mph to want a smaller chainring.

bbattle

52-36.

The pros have used a 52-34 on some of the climbs in the Giro.

The difference between a 52t and a 53t is neglibible; the difference between a 36 and a 39 is definitely noticeable; particularly on a long, steep climb.

AristoNYC

What do you mean "all types of terrain"? Do you mean you'll be riding it on dirt/rocks/gravel etc? If so I'd look into a cyclocross bike, which usually have lower gearing anyway.

Jaeger99

What he said.

Bobwgilmour

Roads.

Bobwgilmour

LBS will put in whichever I want at no additional cost once it arrives.

Dean V

52-36

Homebrew01

Since you don't have enough information to know for sure, better to go with the 36. You might be glad to have that slightly lower gear for climbing.

qcpmsame 

I agree with Trojan Horse, and the others, go with the 52-36 , mid-compact rings. Best of both worlds and the lower gear inch from the 36 should make the hilly parts of your area more liveable. I currently have a compact S500 SRAM, the 52 big ring is my next drive train purchase, so I can take advantage of the mid-compact higher GI now that I am riding better.

Bill

gc3

this can't be possible...everyone on the 41 agreeing?

Homebrew01

You're an idiot

Is that better

gc3

I feel so much better and at peace now, thanks....

FLvector

53/39 of course. 52/36 is just a fad - it will pass. You just have to build up your quads so you can dial it up 400W to climb, then power down the other side. And since you're all clydes, we know you'll descend faster.

loimpact

Heck, I'll be the fly in the ointment......

50/34.

I can't even imagine 53/39 unless I only rode down hill 100% of the time.

52/36 may be fine, too but then you run the risk of having a 28 not be enough for a killer climb (typically the lowest gear before you have to changed from short to long RD).

50/34 with an 11/25 in 11 speed, FTW!!!

superslomo

TRIPLE! TRIPLE! TRIPLE! (Not that you could find one on a new road bike of any meaningful price anymore.)

TrojanHorse

Says the guy living in Tampa... who probably gets all his elevation changes on a ride from standing up in the saddle.


No, I kid, I know you guys have over passes.

FLvector

We recently did a 50 mile route in San Antonio, FL with 2400 ft elevation and would be easy to double that with hill repeats which we sometimes do. The Horrible Hundred coming up in Clermont, FL has a little over 5,000 ft elevation. Not too bad considering its FL.

55/Rad

Just got the 52/36 with a 11/28 rear after several years riding 50/34 with a 12/25. Wider range and with 3 more gears, I'm not missing anything.

gregjones

I've ran a 52/38 for the last several years and as my 60th approaches that 38 seemed to be growing. I just got a wonderful deal on a 50/34. Don't miss the 52 at all and am thinking of a 36, for the next several years at least-I hope.