Changing to a 50/34 crank on a 1980s vintage Peugeot Triathlon bike
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Changing to a 50/34 crank on a 1980s vintage Peugeot Triathlon bike
I have a Peugeot Triathlon with 52/42 front crank and 21/19/17/16/15/14/13 rear cassette, Shimano 105 component set.
This gives me 10 effective gear ratios and speed range from 14.9mph to 29.7mph (roughly) at 95rpm.
If I switch to a 50/34 crank, I'll have 12 effective gear ratios and speed range of 12mph to 28.6mph at 95rpm.
What do I need to know to get a 50/34 crank to fit this bike?
Option 2 is a whole new bike.
This gives me 10 effective gear ratios and speed range from 14.9mph to 29.7mph (roughly) at 95rpm.
If I switch to a 50/34 crank, I'll have 12 effective gear ratios and speed range of 12mph to 28.6mph at 95rpm.
What do I need to know to get a 50/34 crank to fit this bike?
Option 2 is a whole new bike.
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You might want to consider a cross type compact (say 46-36) as this should give you better in between gears with 7 on the back. The big jump in a 50-34 compact tends to work better when you have 9 or more gears on the back. The peugeot triathlon is a newer pug; if it has an english threaded bottom bracket (and I believe that the newer peugeots did), this will be a pretty straight forward upgrade.
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I have a Peugeot Triathlon with 52/42 front crank and 21/19/17/16/15/14/13 rear cassette, Shimano 105 component set.
This gives me 10 effective gear ratios and speed range from 14.9mph to 29.7mph (roughly) at 95rpm.
If I switch to a 50/34 crank, I'll have 12 effective gear ratios and speed range of 12mph to 28.6mph at 95rpm.
This gives me 10 effective gear ratios and speed range from 14.9mph to 29.7mph (roughly) at 95rpm.
If I switch to a 50/34 crank, I'll have 12 effective gear ratios and speed range of 12mph to 28.6mph at 95rpm.
You do NOT want a compact crank.
After moving on to 9 cogs and wearing out bottom bracket + chain ring I noticed that 50-34 x 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23 provided the same range and spacing, and 2 rings are better than 3....
Huge mistake. Instead of spending most of my time on my middle ring I was bouncing back and forth. Dropping below 16 MPH up-hill I'd shift from 50x21 to 34x15 with a five cog change. Speeding back up beyond 18 MPH I'd shift from 34x14 to 50x19. That could happen 10 times a mile on a road which wasn't dead flat.
Switched back to 50-39-30 x 14-23/13-26/12-23 10 cogs and it's immensely better. 39x14 is a nice 20 MPH cruising gear. 39x23 is a nice 10 MPH climbing gear. If I need to scoot a little 39x14 is good for a 29 MPH sprint. The middle ring splits the difference between where big and small are on a double, so the small and large cogs run relatively silently making avoiding them less important.
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I have 46-36-26 triples on both my road bikes, and it's perfect for an old slow guy who lives in the Sierra Nevada. If I ever have to replace one, I'll probably try about a 48-34 double, but just because I want to see what it's like.
FWIW, I've found the alleged shifting difficulties with a triple to be imaginary. How smart do you have to be to shift a front derailleur?
FWIW, I've found the alleged shifting difficulties with a triple to be imaginary. How smart do you have to be to shift a front derailleur?
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+1 to the above. Most of my riding is in the 60-85" range, so I would constantly be shifting the front and subsequently shifting from one end of the cassette to the other on a 50/34 + 13-21 setup. It only looks good on paper.
It's kind of a moot point, because 13-21 "J" cassettes are hard to come by unless you have a stash. Consider switching your small chainring to a 39T and getting a 13-14-15-17-19-21-23 "I" cassette (which are plentiful), for a low gear that compares nicely with your proposed 34/21.
It's kind of a moot point, because 13-21 "J" cassettes are hard to come by unless you have a stash. Consider switching your small chainring to a 39T and getting a 13-14-15-17-19-21-23 "I" cassette (which are plentiful), for a low gear that compares nicely with your proposed 34/21.
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