dinkjs

So looking at many different cycle brands in the Sub $2,000 price point and it got me to wondering. With comparing bikes with the same sets, lets say Tiagra group set to Tiagra group set on different manufactured bikes or add into 105 group sets to other 105 group sets with different manufacturers are you basically coming down to the conclusion there is no real difference in the bikes and just picking who has the prettier colors? I guess I would put types of road bikes into there own categories like bikes geared towards long distance riding where comfort is factored into the equation.

To me I wonder if it really matters at this price point. Can someone help me out here when it comes to road bikes?

I hope I am not confusing anyone on this question.

dalava

For $2k, you should expect more than Tiagra. I would say carbon frame with 105 is the starting point.

With 2015 bikes start to come in, you can get a real good road bike for $2k from all the major brands.

dinkjs

Its just a general question over pretty much all brands in the price point. And yea I could probably get a awesome bike in that price range.

silkroad

Frame material/construction, geometry and component (brand vs. in house brands) differences.

roadwarrior

Look for the bike that has a frame that carriers a higher price tag because that is generally the indicator of the frame's quality.

Example....a CAAD10 Cannondale has two bikes under two grand. They, on that same frame offered a bike nearly four grand. The ride is that good.

Point...if you are under two grand and looking at the nicest bike that manufacturer makes on that frame, it's entry level and will ride as such. If you are looking at the starter bike under two grand, and there is a bike that costs twice that, generally you should be very happy with the ride.

Frame is the most important part of the bike. The components are the least important part.

Putting Di2 on an entry frame will not make the bike ride any better. The frame tubing, then the wheels are where the ride comfort comes from.

Lazyass

Sub 2K look at hydroformed aluminum frames with Ultegra.

IcySmooth52

The $1,800-$2,000 price point gets a lot of attention from the bike industry, because that's where a lot of people are looking. (Usually they make more of the carbon bikes spec'ed at this than the higher-end ones.)

You're usually looking at; a well equipped racing aluminum/Steel frame with a fine wheelset, carbon frame with 105, or carbon frame worthy of Dura-Ace with Sora/Tiagra*. I'd go with one of the first two unless you plan on upgrading components as you go. Tiagra isn't at all bad, but 105 is a big step in component performance.
-Metal:JAMIS BICYCLES
JAMIS BICYCLES
-105 Carbon:Kestrel Bicycles | Road | Legend Series - Legend - Shimano 105
-Unequal frame-components:Specialized Bicycle Components

*(Don't look into costs and how high-modulus, it's a miniscule difference in weight and not always a better riding bike. They use lower-modulus carbon as well on the best bikes in certain places for a smoother ride because it's high-elasticity!)

seanpatrick76

For what it's worth I just piked up a 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105 and LOVE IT for 1500 CAD. It's alloy with Carbon forks but it's light as a feather and rides EXTREMELY well. I don't want to start a flame war here but I wouldn't get too hung up on a Carbon frame when you can get an amazing aluminum frame with carbon forks and much better components (105/ultegra) for less money. Just my 2 cents.

rick458

There are differences in Frame Geometry (E.G. Comfort/Endurance, Racing/Climbing, TT/Aero/Triathelon)
but then you have the Trek Emonda which is a Comfort/Endurance/Racing/Climbing frame but the good stuff is a bit out of the $2k range on that one

floridamtb

+1
Last July I bought my Trek Madone 4.5 with Ultegra drivetrain and 105 brakes on sale for $1999. But with regards to OP's point about prettiest colors, NO, it comes down to picking the one that feels/rides the best and is most comfortable to you. If two different bikes feel the same pick the one from the shop that you get the best feel for, that is HUGE IMHO. To me the Spesh that I test rode and the Trek were comparably equipped bikes. I chose Trek because the guys at both Trek stores were much better, much more interested in me getting the right bike etc. The two Spesh dealers weren't that interested in me, they were interested in a sale where the Trek guys were interested in a relationship. Since then my girlfriend and I have bought 3 other Trek's from them and I've spent a lot of $ on accessories and service (which is where they really make their money).

RogueRadio

I would say at sub 2k look for a CAAD 10. You could pick up a NEW CAAD10 with Ultegra at ~$2000 depending on the shop, not to mention the savings on a 2014 leftover. But to buy an entry level carbon frame makes no sense, because mostly you will be running an OK frame, which the CAAD is more than likely lighter. I rode a CAAD 10 105 for a while, loved it, only sold it because it was too big for me. If it fit me I would have just stayed on it and upgraded the componentry. It was lighter than most carbon frames at 2x its price point.

Bottom line: Dont go and buy a low end carbon frame, just because its "carbon".

SundayNiagara

The 2015 Felt Z5 offers a carbon frame, FULL 105/5800 groupset and internal cabling for $1899.00. Check it out.

rpenmanparker 

You're asking a more generic question than most folks are answering. I do agree with the point about get the frame that is also used on much higher priced bikes. And also regarding frames, I would rather have the best aluminum frame than the worst carbon one from a manufacturer.

Also be sure to not take the named group set for granted. Look to see how much of the group is actually used on the bike and how much is substituted with lower grade parts. So if you are looking at Ultegra, is the crank also Ultegra, and the brakes, and the cassette, and the chain. Are both the front and rear derailleur both from the named group set. Or are they 105 which isn't so bad, or a lower market offering like an FSA Gossamer crank and Tektro brakes. That is one way to maximize your value, make sure you are getting as much of the nominal group set as you can.

Then look at the "cockpit", the stem, handlebar, seat post and saddle. Those are other places where lower grade choices can save the manufacturer money and reduce the value you are getting. Look for good brands like FSA and Ritchey and a good saddle brand. Lot's of time those parts will be house brands of the bike maker. Look to see how high up the line up of each part the ones you are getting are.

It's not rocket surgery, but a little attention to the details goes a long way toward maximizing the value you will get for your money at any price point, not just the under $2,000 point.

Leinster

Definitely echo this. My CAAD10 is the right size for me, but I do think often about upgrading the parts from 105.

I rented a Kuota Kharma frame on a holiday recently, also with full 105 components, which retails and weighs about the same as the CAAD10, but I hated the handling on it by comparison. Even with 25c tires, I could feel the back end moving around way too much on descents, whereas on steeper downhills with worse road surface near home, I know my own bike's 23c tires will be locked to the asphalt.


Re; Parker's point above about componentry, while he raises some valid concerns about corner/cost-cutting in stock bikes, you're going to find it very hard to get a sub-$2000 from a reputable branded bike that doesn't have some own-brand or off-brand componentry snuck in there. Some of those parts (seatpost, stem) are going to be easily replaceable and really down to personal preference, some (tires, brake pads, bar tape) are dispensible/disposable, and you're going to end up replacing them with your own choice sooner or later.

Essentially, if you're willing to consider upgrading your drivetrain later, you can upgrade you bars, cranks, wheels etc later too.

Muffin Man

ITT: Get a CAAD10

rpenmanparker 

Please don't misunderstand. I didn't mean to suggest it was possible to get best parts for little money. What I meant was because you have to expect cutting corners on parts, you have to be vigilant to compare the parts bike to bike to get the best value for your money.

datlas 

Lots of differences as above.

Which bike you would do best with really depends on your goals and expectations. The CAAD is a great idea if you are flexible and plan to do high performance races and/or spirited club rides. It's a TERRIBLE idea if you plan to do touring and long distance rides, or plan to ride on rough cobbles and gravel trails.

PhotoBiker1968

I went with the 2014 Z5 in May for $1600. I put 2600 miles on it and my LBS offered me $1300 in trade towards a 2015 Z3 that I just picked up this past Sunday. I would have stuck with the Z5 had I not gone into the store with my son for a frisbee. The only thing the Z5 would have needed this winter is a wheelset upgrade. I'd also planned on replacing the crankset with a 105 using the Praxis adapter. These changes would have put it over the $2k Mark, but they were wants and not needs. I would have put over 3k and two more centuries on that bike in stock configuration this season alone.

TheRef

Nobody mentioned the Fuji Bikes, For $2000 you can get a Altamira or a Gran Fondo with Ultegra and still have money left for some goodies.

hailandkill

Complete Bikes > Road Bikes | Jenson USA

$2k gets you a carbon focus cayo evo with 3t bar/stem and a complete sram force group, and fulcrum wheels (very similar if not exactly the racing quattros)

toytech

The best < 2k bike is last years 3k bike on closeout

holden west

No doubt, this is a great time to go shopping.

Will I still get a good pair of wheels at 2k? I worry that wheelsets are where manufacturers cut corners since consumers are focused on frame material and components (mainly derailleurs). I know that wheels are the unsung heroes when it comes to making a great bike. I'm not sure what to look for in a wheel and I'm concerned I'll be seduced by Ultegra components on a competitively-priced bike and miss the fact the wheels might be sub-par.

sced

Maybe save a grand or so.

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PaulRivers

Your #1 priority should be buying the right size of bike. While this is generally not a manufacturer-specific issue, a few have more limited sizes if you're short or tall.

Next you have ride quality. Some brands and bikes have a better ride than others. It's not easy to describe exactly which is which though - having test ridden around 15 bikes this summer, a really good aluminum frame that's designed for comfort has a better ride than the worst carbon frames, but the best carbon frames are even better. In other aspects, some frames feel lively and responsive, some frames are in the middle, and some frames feel "dead". But often it's tradeoff - dead often comes with better vibration elimination, fast and lively can be harder on you over bumps and in road vibration in the bars. It's all over the place.

I seriously can't tell you over the internet whether it's worth it for you to worry about. Some people don't seem to notice. Others, like me, notice it a lot and it really affects how enjoyable the ride is. Certain road buzz will leave my hands hurting at the end which I won't do.

Then you have handling. Some bikes handle quick, but this means you have to pay more attention to the handling to keep it going straight. Other bikes handle slowly, so they're not as exciting and you have to take turns wider, but it's a more relaxed ride that you don't have to pay as much attention to. Slower handling also works better if you're touring or carrying panniers for some reason - a fast twitchy bike with panniers is really hard to control.

If you get the right size of bike (again, #1 most important thing), buying a bike is a lot like buying a car, except that in the price range you're looking at there's not much difference in reliability. Some have a smoother ride, some are more "fun" to drive but that comes at the cost of needing to pay more attention, but overall they'll almost all do the job, as long as long as you don't get something super-niche.