rangerdavid

about $1500 for bike, helmet and shoes, back in the day

Square Wheels

I went big on my first bike, just under 4k. I don't regret it at all. It's a great bike and I plan to keep it for many years. I've put a fair amount into it since.

Canadian_giant

First bike was $800 + $500 gear etc. to get started.

BoSoxYacht

Did you remove the water bottle cages for the photo, or use a Camelbak?

Square Wheels

Removed, was trying to follow as many of the pic posting rules as I could remember. I think I got most of them.

LGHT

Thanks all for the feedback, looks like I am in the middle of the road after all. For a minute I thought I wasn't putting enough money into it, but reading other post I guess I'm right around the mid way mark for a new rider. I did forget to mention I did put down $45 on new shoes after trying a bunch on in stores and finding them online for about $30 less!!

As far as maintenance I did measure my chain and it seems fine, but I know I need to get new handlebar tape and brake shoes. The gears shift "ok" not really smooth, but not bad either. I did hear a loud grind while trying to shift standing going up a hill. Not sure if it was just too much pressure or if I need to get a new front sprocket or what.

I do have a multi tool that fits seat post bolt, handlebar, etc etc and I do carry that with me, but what other basic tools would I need to get to do my own maintenance? Also can someone provide a good basic site or book on bike maintenance.

Wife and I agreed that my goal is to put aside $1000 a year for now. If I can go 2 years without spending then I can drop $2000 on a new bike!!

Any other costs I need to add in outside of tires, tubes, tape, and maybe new chain and cassette??

Thanks all for the help.

mcours2006

It doesn't have to be expensive, but somehow we equate the price of one's bike/equipment with the rider's experience, ability, and even worth. Which is completely BS. You can enjoy the sport of cycling without taking out a loan, but like any activity, sport, or hobby, you can take it to the extreme in terms of equipment.

I'm not saying I didn't spend money on my bikes. I suppose there is a marginal increase in my riding enjoyment with each bike, but that's fleeting too. Soon you realize it's not about the bike.

joeyduck

Cables, housing, lube, cleats. Cycling specific clothes if that is the budget.

I think that is a great deal put away a grand a year and get to spend it every two years for a sweet new ride.

bruised

Way more than I initially budgeted. But that's 'cos I got hooked and it's fueling the OCCD that I never knew I had until I started biking

It's still way cheaper than my other hobby - audio gear / hifi. That's been on the back-burner all Summer but it's getting close to silly season again.

jrossbeck

I started by dropping about $600 on a new hybrid, toe cages, bottle cage, an some bar ends. Rode that for just under a year, then went back for a dedicated road bike. Dropped a little under $1800 on bike, pedals, shoes, accessories, and a 3 year pre-paid anything goes warranty/service plan.

Hyrbid is currently for sale - thought I would keep it, but I've ridden it three times since I got the road bike. All three times to the park with kids, which is 1/2 mile away. I'll probably scoop up a used P.O.S. for $30 to do that.

joe_5700

When I bought my first road bike here is what I had invested.

2007 Jamis Ventura Sport-new last year's model $450
Helmet ~$30
Shorts $40
Jersey $30
Gloves $20
Cages and bottles $20
Cyclocomputer $25

Total $615

What I ride today:

I will use my S1 which I purchased used.

Cervelo S1-$800
Helmet $65 my old helmet shattered in a nasty wreck
Jersey/bib shorts $150 This is the cost of my nice Castelli team kit. Do not scrimp on good kit!
Cyclocomputer-$25 just using a cheapo cateye 7
Pump, levers,patches-$30
Sunglasses ~$50
Gloves $25
Shoes/pedals-$250
Total $1395 Total on race day with carbon clinchers...~$2595

Your best money is spent on good shorts with a really good chamois. Don't waste money on a seat pack. Everything should go in your jersey pockets. Metal type cages are junk as bottles will get launched on train tracks or pot holes. I have had better luck with the nylon type.

joe_5700

[QUOTE=mcours2006;17198780]It doesn't have to be expensive, but somehow we equate the price of one's bike/equipment with the rider's experience, ability, and even worth. Which is completely BS. You can enjoy the sport of cycling without taking out a loan, but like any activity, sport, or hobby, you can take it to the extreme in terms of equipment.

I'm not saying I didn't spend money on my bikes. I suppose there is a marginal increase in my riding enjoyment with each bike, but that's fleeting too. Soon you realize it's not about the bike.[/QUOTE]

So true. After I purchased a motorcycle last year my wife said that the money would have been better spent on a bike. Personally, I cannot justify paying >$2000 for a bike. Diminishing returns...

MRT2

Sounds like you are doing OK and getting good deals. You can get by with shockingly little, but over time, you will find yourself spending money on all sorts of things to make your experience just a little better. Once you are situated with all your summer gear, you may eventually want, or need some fall gear. Cycling tights, long sleeve jersey, windbreaker, arm or leg warmers, cold weather gloves, thermal hat, wool base layer, shoe coverings, and rain gear.

mcours2006

Back in 1987 when I was a young teenager, I spent:
Gardin/Cambio Rino road bike: $600 (that's a lot of money back then)
Sidi 'touring' shoes: $80
Specialized cleated shoes: $100
LG helmet: $60
LG shorts: $70
Jersey: $40
Upgrading stock breaks to 105's: $100

I won't add it up, but that was a lot of money back then. And for a 17y/o, that's more than what I made for a summer job.

Present Day
Used 2012 Giant Rapid 2: $500
Older style Carnac shoes and Time pedals for commuter bike: $80
Clipless pedals for Rapid 2: $60
Helmet: $60
Used 2011 Specialized Roubaix SL2: $1100
Upgrading old Gardin bike from 1980's with vintage 105 groupset--relatively cheap, but not easy.

I cannot see it getting much more than this. Obviously the bikes are the biggest cost and I don't intend to buy another bike, maybe for another 25 years.

Team Sarcasm

My first bike was a Cannondale Synapse Alloy, picked up for 700
pedals 20$ off craigslist (eventually replaced with 105 pedals)
30$ computer (eventually replaces w/a garmin 500)
50$ bike stand
15 dollars for a bottle & cage
20$ Mavic craigslist shoes (eventually replaces w/mavic galibers)
40$ shorts (eventually got more)
30$ jersey (ditto)
15$ frame pump (highly recomend the pocket rocket)
25$ saddlebag/levers/spare tube
30$ on blinky lights

LGHT

So true I actually enjoyed riding the heavier Fuji just as much, but didn't really feel safe on it hence the upgrade.

How would I know when my cables and housing need to be changed or is it just something I should do since I don't know how many miles is on the bike? The bike is a 2007, but was sitting for about 3 years prior to me purchasing it. I also just picked up another pair of shorts since I only have 2 pair I really like. It's amazing how much more comfortable a pair of shorts can help you ride.

I'm in So Cal and it doesn't get too cold during the winter which is nice so I'm going to just start off with sleeves and wool socks for now. Then if I get too cold I'll probably add in some leg warmers.

Grillparzer

Just guesstimating, I'm a little bit south of $2000. The bike was $1340, $300 for head and tail lights, $100 for a B17, and $150 for tires and tubes. I'm a commuter doing eight and and a half to seventeen a day. If I move next year, then my ride will increase to twenty to forty miles per day. As I'm car free, I'll pay for reliability and dependability.

joeyduck

Ohh I forgot about my Schwinn Frontier GS in 1995 or 6. I saved and saved when I was 14-15 and got it for about $600 I think. It served me well for 15+ years until I donated it and I have regretted donating it.

joeyduck

Just out of curiosity why did you not feel safe on the Fuji?

Cables and housings are just about the easiest and cheapest things to change and they can be a great starting point to make a bike feel nicer. It improves shifting if there is anything in the housing causing friction which may slow shifting or cause mis-shifts. It ensures brakes rebound and pull smooth and evenly. Since it is so easy it is a great starting point into self mechanics and when you get it new to you it is great to know you can change gears and stop properly. STi brake housings do require removing the bar tape though; a chance for new, fresh and personal bar tape. Think of the old riders gross fingers and what they did on that bar tape.

I ride in all weather (mostly my LHT on commutes in the rain) and the cables and housings get changed at least once a year in the spring usually after the wet grime is gone. My shifting always feels so much nicer afterwards.

A cool winter morning can still make it nice to have a long sleeve jersey or tights. I wear my head band/ear warmers almost year round (I have a history of ear problems from swimming which also makes my ears more sensitive to wind and cold). In the summer it doubles as a sweat band to keep sweat out of my eyes.

I can get by almost all year with my mesh backed kayaking gloves, they keep me warm in the cold and protected and clean. (Disregard since they are nearly identical to your fishing gloves.)

mercator

I didn't spend anything when I started cycling, my parents gave me an awesome red bike for my birthday.

Of course 50 years later, I have a few more bikes and a lot of clothes, shoes, parts and tools to go with them.
I have no idea what it all cost, but doubt it would be as much as leasing a Hyundai.

Leinster

My first bike cost my parents about IR£200-250 as a Christmas present, an MBK Super Mistral. I've been through several different bikes since, but moving country usually leads to a reboot.

On my current go-around I walked into Performance Bike on Black Friday 2006 to have a look, and walked out having spent the bones of $1000 that I didn't really have at the time on a Schwinn Fastback, new helmet, shoes, shorts, SPDs, pump, spare tube, repair kit and multi-tool. The only thing I'm still using from that day is the Crank Bros multi-tool, and I've spent as much as that several times over assembling my current stable.

tecknik1

Comparing Golf to Cycling, I was an avid golfer till I tore up my knee a few months ago and getting back into cycling.
Golf clubs easy a couple thousand dollars, shoes, green fee,s , cart fee,s pretty expensive sport year after year.

Cycling, $7500 on a Lynskey Ti, campy Super Record Rs, shoes, clothing, bike stand around $8500 so far and haven't even received the bike yet, maybe next week it well be finished. Cycling is certainly healthier sport and I would say in my experience golfing over time is more expensive.

mcours2006

I used to play a lot of golf, and yes, in the long run it is more expensive. I used to play 30-40 rounds a year, mostly at cheaper courses, but even at $40-60/round and walking, you can imagine it adds up year after year. The clubs are cheap by comparison. My irons were decent ones at $800; a used driver was $200, used putter and wedges--$200, old beat up 3 and 5 woods--negligible. That's already the price of a decent entry level bike.

LGHT

As far as the older fuji bike, the brakes are really stiff, the gears where not the original and it didn't shift well and did miss shift from time to time. Plus it only had 9 speeds. My brother who bikes a lot called it the "Frankin Bike" since it was a nice frame, but they put really cheap parts on it from 10 different manufactures and basically just rode it to the ground. It was a good bike to determine if I like riding, but that's about it. As a matter of fact it's probably going on Craigslist tonight.

As far as changing the cables and housing I think I'm going to try and do that soon. How do I know what parts to order or what parts I need? I already picked up some handlebar tape since it's currently hanging off, but I think I'm just going to hold off until I get the cable parts and do them all at once.

Thanks all for the feedback and tips!

joeyduck

Cables are sold in standard lengths. Brake and shift cables are different. Brake and shift housing are different and it is important to get it right, check out Sheldon Brown's site or Park Tools.

Essentially measure the housing now and go to a shop and buy what you need plus a few inches. Google cutting and finishing housing ends.

Also you will want new ferrules to keep cables from unraveling and housing will need end caps.