Trek Emonda Pictures. Let's See Them!
#202
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Nice color!
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#203
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Is that a Project One? What color is that?
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#205
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I guess what I'm asking is the Trek Project One color name. Yes, I see it is yellow, as is the Mustang.
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It is apparently an unreleased new color. It's yellow with gold metallic flakes. Absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. I don't have anything with the actual color name though. The store told me they weren't supposed to sell it yet. When I was ordering it, the salesman pulled up his ordering page to show me what colors were available, and the yellow bike was there. Sold!!
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It is apparently an unreleased new color. It's yellow with gold metallic flakes. Absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. I don't have anything with the actual color name though. The store told me they weren't supposed to sell it yet. When I was ordering it, the salesman pulled up his ordering page to show me what colors were available, and the yellow bike was there. Sold!!
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I too joined the party via divine providence - Emonda SL Gloss black w/white lettering. (personally I prefer the stealthier matte black but hey, it was providence :-)
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
#209
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It is an available color on Project One, the Emonda SL 6 or the Emonda S 4 WSD.
Trek does not offer Project One on the Emonda SL frame, only the S and SLR.
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2015 SL6 1500 miles. Mods: An 11-32 cassette + a long cage derailleur for climbing. A 25mm rear tire for additional comfort.
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ive read somewhere on the internetmachine that the trek dealer page has the SL frameset with project one option.
ive yet to go to the LBS to check the legitimacy of this, however.
ive yet to go to the LBS to check the legitimacy of this, however.
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Here is my ALR 6.
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Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Last edited by jaxgtr; 09-27-15 at 12:32 PM.
#213
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Negative. They offer it for the Silque SL but as of this exact moment it's still Emonda S and Emonda SLR.
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I too joined the party via divine providence - Emonda SL Gloss black w/white lettering. (personally I prefer the stealthier matte black but hey, it was providence :-)
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
LBS did accommodate, providing the following bushing (most likely for a Scott frame and ideally designed to accommodate electronic shifting - but it works).
Another QUESTION:
Is the 2 inch opening on the UNDERSIDE of the drive-side chainstay normal? This is just above the RD jockey wheels at the very end of the chainstay. I would imagine there should be a rubber gasket there to deflect/protect against jockey wheel and tire spritz.
Observation: Routing internal cable on the Emonda is easy even w/o the temporary cable.
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Does anyone else here with an Emonda have any issues with saddle slippage?
My saddle keeps shifting back on the rails until it's all the way back. It doesn't tilt at all, it just slides. I know another Emonda SL owner (same frame as mine, one size up) that had a slip/tilt problem, and he cracked the ears off the seat mast over-tightening it.
It's a weird problem. You can actually see two shiny slide marks on the saddle rails where it's slid.
My saddle keeps shifting back on the rails until it's all the way back. It doesn't tilt at all, it just slides. I know another Emonda SL owner (same frame as mine, one size up) that had a slip/tilt problem, and he cracked the ears off the seat mast over-tightening it.
It's a weird problem. You can actually see two shiny slide marks on the saddle rails where it's slid.
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Current Stable: Trek Emonda SL - Trek Top Fuel 8 - Scattante XRL - Jamis Dakar Expert - Trek 9700 -
#216
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Cleaning and buffing the internals, corrected my issue (LBS replaced the ear I snapped trying unsuccessfully to tighten-it-down. They also provided a new recessed bolt with the ears. I noticed that one had the blue Loctite on the threads.
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Yep I'm gonna disassemble and clean the assembly in case there's grease or something on the part that touches the rails.
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Current Stable: Trek Emonda SL - Trek Top Fuel 8 - Scattante XRL - Jamis Dakar Expert - Trek 9700 -AlpineStars Al Mega
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#218
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Hey guys I purchased an sl6 about a week ago and noticed that the rear tire isnt equal distance between the chainstays. One,shop said this isn't normal the other said it's made to be like that. What's everybody's else's sl6 like? Thanks everybody
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To me, that saddle would create an uncomfortable position on the bike with too much weight on the hands. Many believe setback is the number one reason why there is more or less weight on the hands. It is actually the number 2 reason...the pedals being a platform for neutralizing weight distribution/falling forward. No. 1 reason is whether the saddle is level 'where we sit on it' which is the rear section. If you put a magazine under the back legs of the chair you are sitting in right now its the same thing...your weight will shift forward. If the saddle is tilting forward like yours is as shown, then your weight will be falling forward. The reason why many choose your saddle tilt however it due to perineal pressure. So here is an interaction. The saddle pushed back on its rails is a kluge for the saddle being tilted forward. They are related. The farther a saddle is positioned more rearward on the bike, the more bothersome the nose of the saddle is to the perineum. So the solution is...push the saddle more forward and then level the rear of saddle. This way you can tilt your pelvis in the drops with close to a flat back and not put too much weight on your balls....which is what the nose does if your saddle is too far back.
This isn't discussed much in fit literature but wanted to share this dynamic as I believe its quite important for a proper fit.
This isn't discussed much in fit literature but wanted to share this dynamic as I believe its quite important for a proper fit.
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Result: Centered
You mention "tire". Tire could be misshaped, warped. Take your cue from a better "mark" such as the brake track. (obviously w/wheel you know is in TRU).
Also as simple as this sounds, fully loosen QR, remove all tension, readjust and re-tighten. (It's not that uncommon for the axle to be pitched. During group-ride flat repairs, sometimes in the rush to re-install a rear-wheel, the axle is not perfectly seated).
#221
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I made a quick comparison (nothing fancy w/calipers) but a simple tape measure and eye-balled it from both sides (careful to minimize parallax) at the brake track.
Result: Centered
You mention "tire". Tire could be misshaped, warped. Take your cue from a better "mark" such as the brake track. (obviously w/wheel you know is in TRU).
Also as simple as this sounds, fully loosen QR, remove all tension, readjust and re-tighten. (It's not that uncommon for the axle to be pitched. During group-ride flat repairs, sometimes in the rush to re-install a rear-wheel, the axle is not perfectly seated).
Result: Centered
You mention "tire". Tire could be misshaped, warped. Take your cue from a better "mark" such as the brake track. (obviously w/wheel you know is in TRU).
Also as simple as this sounds, fully loosen QR, remove all tension, readjust and re-tighten. (It's not that uncommon for the axle to be pitched. During group-ride flat repairs, sometimes in the rush to re-install a rear-wheel, the axle is not perfectly seated).
Thank you. I tried a few things that i could ( flipped the rear wheel around. Removed Skewer, different skewer, different tire. ) problem was still there. So i took it to another Trek shop today, he immediately noticed something was off checked dish and switched wheels problem was still there. Looks like something in the frame is off. He took pics and sent them in for warranty request hopefully ill hear something this week. Im going to upload some pics i just took to show the problem.
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#224
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The rear wheel on my SLR is centered.
Maybe the layup in the jig was screwy. Have the Trek rep take a look and if there's a defect, they'll replace it.
Maybe the layup in the jig was screwy. Have the Trek rep take a look and if there's a defect, they'll replace it.
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small update: Bike is back at the shop i purchased it from they have sent pictures to trek. All i know at the moment is that trek has said that it is safe and ok to ride and the wheel is 2mm closer to the drive side. Trek didn't have a complete answer for the LBS today but I've been told they would have a final solution on monday. Happy Holidays