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Trek Emonda Pictures. Let's See Them!

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Trek Emonda Pictures. Let's See Them!

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Old 08-01-15, 12:06 AM
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Old 08-01-15, 06:27 AM
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Nice color!
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Old 08-01-15, 08:53 AM
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Is that a Project One? What color is that?
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Old 08-01-15, 08:54 AM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by cthenn
Is that a Project One? What color is that?
looks the same as the Mustang.
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Old 08-01-15, 08:57 AM
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I guess what I'm asking is the Trek Project One color name. Yes, I see it is yellow, as is the Mustang.
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Old 08-01-15, 09:32 AM
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It is apparently an unreleased new color. It's yellow with gold metallic flakes. Absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. I don't have anything with the actual color name though. The store told me they weren't supposed to sell it yet. When I was ordering it, the salesman pulled up his ordering page to show me what colors were available, and the yellow bike was there. Sold!!
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Old 08-01-15, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimljr145
It is apparently an unreleased new color. It's yellow with gold metallic flakes. Absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. I don't have anything with the actual color name though. The store told me they weren't supposed to sell it yet. When I was ordering it, the salesman pulled up his ordering page to show me what colors were available, and the yellow bike was there. Sold!!
Oh ok cool, great stock color for 2016! I just ordered my Project One and before I placed the order, the guy showed me some of the new color schemes for 2016. Like you, they weren't supposed to show those to customers yet, but if it's out there, I'm sure anyone can find out. At least for the SLR, there aren't as many nice stock colors next year, the best was a purple color (though most will probably love it or hate it). I'm glad Trek is embracing more color in their stock choices...the whole black on black or black and red or black and gray is getting way overplayed IMO. Congrats on the new bike!
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Old 09-16-15, 08:42 AM
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I too joined the party via divine providence - Emonda SL Gloss black w/white lettering. (personally I prefer the stealthier matte black but hey, it was providence :-)
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
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Old 09-16-15, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cthenn
I guess what I'm asking is the Trek Project One color name. Yes, I see it is yellow, as is the Mustang.
Trek calls it Goldenage

It is an available color on Project One, the Emonda SL 6 or the Emonda S 4 WSD.

Trek does not offer Project One on the Emonda SL frame, only the S and SLR.
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Old 09-17-15, 02:09 PM
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2015 SL6 1500 miles. Mods: An 11-32 cassette + a long cage derailleur for climbing. A 25mm rear tire for additional comfort.
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Old 09-17-15, 02:39 PM
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ive read somewhere on the internetmachine that the trek dealer page has the SL frameset with project one option.
ive yet to go to the LBS to check the legitimacy of this, however.
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Old 09-17-15, 02:43 PM
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Here is my ALR 6.

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Old 09-18-15, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Mumonkan
ive read somewhere on the internetmachine that the trek dealer page has the SL frameset with project one option.
ive yet to go to the LBS to check the legitimacy of this, however.
Negative. They offer it for the Silque SL but as of this exact moment it's still Emonda S and Emonda SLR.
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Old 09-18-15, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SteelCan
I too joined the party via divine providence - Emonda SL Gloss black w/white lettering. (personally I prefer the stealthier matte black but hey, it was providence :-)
Before I post a pic, (frame is resting uncomfortably on the stand), would anyone be able to take a pic, explain or link to the grommet/bushing on the chainstay that acts as a housing-guide for the internally routed cable. Mine was missing.
Not sure if this is something I can easily remedy or I require that specific part for accurate shifting.
TIA
I emailed Trek customer service which deferred to LBS which did not have nor stock specific bushing.
LBS did accommodate, providing the following bushing (most likely for a Scott frame and ideally designed to accommodate electronic shifting - but it works).
Another QUESTION:
Is the 2 inch opening on the UNDERSIDE of the drive-side chainstay normal? This is just above the RD jockey wheels at the very end of the chainstay. I would imagine there should be a rubber gasket there to deflect/protect against jockey wheel and tire spritz.

Observation: Routing internal cable on the Emonda is easy even w/o the temporary cable.
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Old 09-23-15, 06:49 PM
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Does anyone else here with an Emonda have any issues with saddle slippage?

My saddle keeps shifting back on the rails until it's all the way back. It doesn't tilt at all, it just slides. I know another Emonda SL owner (same frame as mine, one size up) that had a slip/tilt problem, and he cracked the ears off the seat mast over-tightening it.

It's a weird problem. You can actually see two shiny slide marks on the saddle rails where it's slid.
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Old 09-23-15, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cydewaze
My saddle keeps shifting back on the rails until it's all the way back. It doesn't tilt at all, it just slides. I know another Emonda SL owner (same frame as mine, one size up) that had a slip/tilt problem, and he cracked the ears off the seat mast over-tightening it.
Speaking from experience (if by experience, I'm the hack that snapped that ear :-), completely unscrew and remove that recessed nut and see what's going on INSIDE that mast cap. My "conical" bearings were frozen into position. They were also covered with (I suspect) white lithium grease (I suspect they excessively over-greased that recessed nut).
Cleaning and buffing the internals, corrected my issue (LBS replaced the ear I snapped trying unsuccessfully to tighten-it-down. They also provided a new recessed bolt with the ears. I noticed that one had the blue Loctite on the threads.
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Old 09-23-15, 08:01 PM
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Yep I'm gonna disassemble and clean the assembly in case there's grease or something on the part that touches the rails.
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Old 12-19-15, 04:53 PM
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Hey guys I purchased an sl6 about a week ago and noticed that the rear tire isnt equal distance between the chainstays. One,shop said this isn't normal the other said it's made to be like that. What's everybody's else's sl6 like? Thanks everybody
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Old 12-20-15, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
To me, that saddle would create an uncomfortable position on the bike with too much weight on the hands. Many believe setback is the number one reason why there is more or less weight on the hands. It is actually the number 2 reason...the pedals being a platform for neutralizing weight distribution/falling forward. No. 1 reason is whether the saddle is level 'where we sit on it' which is the rear section. If you put a magazine under the back legs of the chair you are sitting in right now its the same thing...your weight will shift forward. If the saddle is tilting forward like yours is as shown, then your weight will be falling forward. The reason why many choose your saddle tilt however it due to perineal pressure. So here is an interaction. The saddle pushed back on its rails is a kluge for the saddle being tilted forward. They are related. The farther a saddle is positioned more rearward on the bike, the more bothersome the nose of the saddle is to the perineum. So the solution is...push the saddle more forward and then level the rear of saddle. This way you can tilt your pelvis in the drops with close to a flat back and not put too much weight on your balls....which is what the nose does if your saddle is too far back.
This isn't discussed much in fit literature but wanted to share this dynamic as I believe its quite important for a proper fit.
I would tend to agree with Campag on this subject of saddle tilt. About 25 years ago I was experimenting with for and aft saddle position, nose tilt up or neutral, or down in the nose, stem length, handlebar roll up straight forward and down, etc. I will simply discuss the saddle nose and say that positioning the nose up just slightly so that your pelvis is cradled in the rearward section worked best for me, assuming that your seat post is not positioned too tall so that you are now going toe down in your crank rotation. Too much nose up will leave you with some sore privates particularly on bad roads. Tilted down, a bit like the rider of that black Trek E left me with a sore neck and sore hands, not to mention that I felt as if I were falling forward off the saddle. I have also found that pushing the saddle so far back, as in the photo from the back Trek E rider, resulted in sore lower back and an unbalanced bike, particularly on descents, not to mention that it just looks wrong.
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Old 12-20-15, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Skatenc123
...noticed that the rear tire isn't equal distance between the chainstays. One,shop said this isn't normal the other said it's made to be like that.
I made a quick comparison (nothing fancy w/calipers) but a simple tape measure and eye-balled it from both sides (careful to minimize parallax) at the brake track.
Result: Centered
You mention "tire". Tire could be misshaped, warped. Take your cue from a better "mark" such as the brake track. (obviously w/wheel you know is in TRU).
Also as simple as this sounds, fully loosen QR, remove all tension, readjust and re-tighten. (It's not that uncommon for the axle to be pitched. During group-ride flat repairs, sometimes in the rush to re-install a rear-wheel, the axle is not perfectly seated).
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Old 12-20-15, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SteelCan
I made a quick comparison (nothing fancy w/calipers) but a simple tape measure and eye-balled it from both sides (careful to minimize parallax) at the brake track.
Result: Centered
You mention "tire". Tire could be misshaped, warped. Take your cue from a better "mark" such as the brake track. (obviously w/wheel you know is in TRU).
Also as simple as this sounds, fully loosen QR, remove all tension, readjust and re-tighten. (It's not that uncommon for the axle to be pitched. During group-ride flat repairs, sometimes in the rush to re-install a rear-wheel, the axle is not perfectly seated).

Thank you. I tried a few things that i could ( flipped the rear wheel around. Removed Skewer, different skewer, different tire. ) problem was still there. So i took it to another Trek shop today, he immediately noticed something was off checked dish and switched wheels problem was still there. Looks like something in the frame is off. He took pics and sent them in for warranty request hopefully ill hear something this week. Im going to upload some pics i just took to show the problem.

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Old 12-20-15, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Skatenc123
checked dish and switched wheels problem was still there. Looks like something in the frame is off.

My next assumption would have been a wheel out-of-dish. But if you swapped wheels with a known entity, as surprising as it is, chainstays could be amuck.
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Old 12-20-15, 08:19 PM
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Yea swapped wheels off one of the shops sl6 that was perfectly center on the shops bike. No such luck with mine.
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Old 12-20-15, 08:31 PM
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The rear wheel on my SLR is centered.

Maybe the layup in the jig was screwy. Have the Trek rep take a look and if there's a defect, they'll replace it.
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Old 12-23-15, 11:42 PM
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small update: Bike is back at the shop i purchased it from they have sent pictures to trek. All i know at the moment is that trek has said that it is safe and ok to ride and the wheel is 2mm closer to the drive side. Trek didn't have a complete answer for the LBS today but I've been told they would have a final solution on monday. Happy Holidays
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