Recommend Me a New Bike?
11-30-14, 06:01 PM
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Recommend Me a New Bike?
Hello,
New member here, first post.
I haven't ridden a bike since college, when my bmx was stolen that I used just to get around from class to class. Now I'm in the market again for a bike, for two reasons:
1) Using the bike to bus hop to work.
2) Ride around town and beach areas with my 9 year old son.
Thinking a road bike will be best?
Looking to spend $300-400ish and will be entertaining used bikes. That should put me in the @$700 new price point if I go used.
It's just as likely that I will spend any extra exercise time past that in the gym or doing something else exercise related, so going farther than that $ wise probably not worth it at this time. Can upgrade later if needed.
I haven't spent much time looking at bikes as I am not informed on the different lines. When my family was into road riding in the early 90's, Trek and Specialized, Cannondale were the 'good' brands. But maybe to get the benefit of those brands, more $ is needed to be spent.
I did see the thread on the Specialized Allez. That model looks good, is that something that may be appropriate?
Thanks in advance for reading and for your advice.
New member here, first post.
I haven't ridden a bike since college, when my bmx was stolen that I used just to get around from class to class. Now I'm in the market again for a bike, for two reasons:
1) Using the bike to bus hop to work.
2) Ride around town and beach areas with my 9 year old son.
Thinking a road bike will be best?
Looking to spend $300-400ish and will be entertaining used bikes. That should put me in the @$700 new price point if I go used.
It's just as likely that I will spend any extra exercise time past that in the gym or doing something else exercise related, so going farther than that $ wise probably not worth it at this time. Can upgrade later if needed.
I haven't spent much time looking at bikes as I am not informed on the different lines. When my family was into road riding in the early 90's, Trek and Specialized, Cannondale were the 'good' brands. But maybe to get the benefit of those brands, more $ is needed to be spent.
I did see the thread on the Specialized Allez. That model looks good, is that something that may be appropriate?
Thanks in advance for reading and for your advice.
11-30-14, 07:51 PM
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11-30-14, 07:51 PM
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Actually it sounds like you might be a candidate for a flat bar road bike or a hybrid. Bikes with a more upright riding position are better suited for riding in town in traffic or slower riding on greenways, and a new bike might be within your budget.
However, if you want a roadbike, yes the Allez is a good model. Most important is to know what size bike you ride. Don't make the mistake many new riders make of looking at price without knowing the correct frame size. Once you have your frame size, then it's easy to cruise Craigslist in your area waiting for a good, affordable bike to be listed. You can determine your size by going to an LBS and act like you're interested in buying a bike. If you're not comfortable with that, and I would not be, you can search the web or go to bikesdirect.com and look at charts to get some idea. However, actually riding a given frame size is the best way to dial in the correct size. Keep in mind the saddle is adjustable and you can change the stem to fit your riding style. There is only one don't do that, don't buy from a department store. They sell stamped out bikes that may not have been assembled by a bike mechanic, they don't wait on you to assure you're riding the right frame size and frequently don't offer different frame sizes in the same model. That's a huge don't do it.
However, if you want a roadbike, yes the Allez is a good model. Most important is to know what size bike you ride. Don't make the mistake many new riders make of looking at price without knowing the correct frame size. Once you have your frame size, then it's easy to cruise Craigslist in your area waiting for a good, affordable bike to be listed. You can determine your size by going to an LBS and act like you're interested in buying a bike. If you're not comfortable with that, and I would not be, you can search the web or go to bikesdirect.com and look at charts to get some idea. However, actually riding a given frame size is the best way to dial in the correct size. Keep in mind the saddle is adjustable and you can change the stem to fit your riding style. There is only one don't do that, don't buy from a department store. They sell stamped out bikes that may not have been assembled by a bike mechanic, they don't wait on you to assure you're riding the right frame size and frequently don't offer different frame sizes in the same model. That's a huge don't do it.
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11-30-14, 08:01 PM
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Really? Come on now. At least you didn't say'CAAD10'.
Calder, how many miles do you expect to ride one-way to work? (How many miles in the saddle, not on the bike rack?) Is this something you will need to lock up at work, or do you have somewhere to park it? How are the roads you'll be riding?
A road bike like the Allez, even an old/used one, with integrated shifters, will max out your $400 budget. Expect to pay that much, plus an extra $100-$200 for replacement parts that an old bike sometimes needs (tires, brake pads, etc). A road bike is great fun for riding as fast as you can (if you have a long-ish commute) but they are not very comfortable at crawling speeds with the 9-year-old, and the narrow tires are slippery on sand-covered concrete paths. Also, for commute use, if you need to carry anything with you (change of clothes or something) you'll need to carry a backpack, or get some sort of additional clamp-on rack, as most older bikes don't have accommodations for cargo.
Some other considerations:
Singlespeed bikes: Check out singlespeed or fixed-gear bikes. If you didn't mind BMX back in the day, some manufacturers are making 29" BMX bikes that would be familiar in feel but would also make good commuters. Check out Retro Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com off the top of my head. While you're there, check Urban Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com - these are mechanically similar to old school BMX bikes, but with frames that seat you more like a road bike. Again, this is just one of many brands that sell such a bike- Specialized's Langster is much like these, but far lighter and speedier.
Fitness/Hybrid bikes like the Specialized Sirrus Specialized Bicycle Components or Trek FX or Fuji Absolute (every major brand has a line of these) are very light like a road bike but far cheaper and more versatile. You can probably get a bike in this category new for around your budget.
Calder, how many miles do you expect to ride one-way to work? (How many miles in the saddle, not on the bike rack?) Is this something you will need to lock up at work, or do you have somewhere to park it? How are the roads you'll be riding?
A road bike like the Allez, even an old/used one, with integrated shifters, will max out your $400 budget. Expect to pay that much, plus an extra $100-$200 for replacement parts that an old bike sometimes needs (tires, brake pads, etc). A road bike is great fun for riding as fast as you can (if you have a long-ish commute) but they are not very comfortable at crawling speeds with the 9-year-old, and the narrow tires are slippery on sand-covered concrete paths. Also, for commute use, if you need to carry anything with you (change of clothes or something) you'll need to carry a backpack, or get some sort of additional clamp-on rack, as most older bikes don't have accommodations for cargo.
Some other considerations:
Singlespeed bikes: Check out singlespeed or fixed-gear bikes. If you didn't mind BMX back in the day, some manufacturers are making 29" BMX bikes that would be familiar in feel but would also make good commuters. Check out Retro Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com off the top of my head. While you're there, check Urban Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com - these are mechanically similar to old school BMX bikes, but with frames that seat you more like a road bike. Again, this is just one of many brands that sell such a bike- Specialized's Langster is much like these, but far lighter and speedier.
Fitness/Hybrid bikes like the Specialized Sirrus Specialized Bicycle Components or Trek FX or Fuji Absolute (every major brand has a line of these) are very light like a road bike but far cheaper and more versatile. You can probably get a bike in this category new for around your budget.
11-30-14, 08:06 PM
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Allez is a good possibility.
Aluminum frame can handle a bit more knocking around on the bike rack.
Depending on where you live, a less fancy bike can also be less theft-prone.
If buying used, more modern i.e. 9 or 10 speed cassette (rear cogs) is simpler to upgrade/get parts for. (This statement will be challenged)
Vintage bikes often have racing gearing (not good for hills), which can be less than straight forward to change.
However, an older but better quality bike beats a newer, cheaper (department store) bike.
Try to ride a number of bikes to get an idea of what frame size to look for.
Aluminum frame can handle a bit more knocking around on the bike rack.
Depending on where you live, a less fancy bike can also be less theft-prone.
If buying used, more modern i.e. 9 or 10 speed cassette (rear cogs) is simpler to upgrade/get parts for. (This statement will be challenged)
Vintage bikes often have racing gearing (not good for hills), which can be less than straight forward to change.
However, an older but better quality bike beats a newer, cheaper (department store) bike.
Try to ride a number of bikes to get an idea of what frame size to look for.
11-30-14, 09:27 PM
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Buy a bike that fits. Everything else is way way secondary.
The problem is, you have too many choices, too much advice, and no real data from which to make a decision. If you go read some research on that kind of situation, you'll find happiness is not possible. You'll second guess any decision you make.
So here's the deal: buy a bike that fits and is not junk, and it will serve your needs for a good while. If you stick with cycling (which you won't do if the bike doesn't fit or is junk), then you'll eventually figure out what's important.
I don't see where you live; if there's a bike co-op nearby, go there. They should have volunteers to help with fitting, and may have a bike for you. Depending on the co-op, they may even have an earn-a-bike program where you can get a bike with volunteer hours. Then you use your money for nice bits they don't have. In the process you learn how to build a bike, which will come in handy.
Lacking a co-op, I'm for online research regarding fit; not a fan of going to an LBS with no intent to purchase. Others disagree; your choice. Some bike shops do sell used; prices are usually premium but they might have something in your range. Caution: an unscrupulous shop or salesman might sell you an ill-fitting used bike. Do your homework.
Okay, with that general stuff out of the way, here's my advice:
Look for rigid hardtail MTB (that means no suspension, front or rear).
(Regarding suspension. On low end bikes, suspension is crap, just dead weight. On pavement, unless you're going to ride over curbs, suspension is unnecessary.)
80's or 90's sports/touring bikes can be decent commuters. Cantilevered brakes can be awesome if well adjusted, and leave room for fenders.
(Regarding fenders. Some love 'em, some hate 'em. Your choice. They keep the spray off your body and your bike. If you want fenders, look for mounting eyelets at the front and rear dropouts.)
Old vintage bikes can be cool if you're into that, but avoid rim brakes with chrome rims. I mean something like a '70's Schwinn Collegiate unquestionably has a certain style, and I suppose you're probably not going to get it going too terribly fast, but get some water on those chrome wheels and it's going to take a good long while to stop.
(Regarding style. Price wise it's best if you don't care about style. If you care about style, that's going to limit your options. Your choice.)
And finally. You will find people who swear by big-box store bikes. I'm no fan; quality is compromised for cost in every aspect, from raw materials to design to manufacturing to assembly. Even bikes you find in sporting goods stores are suspect. But if you do go against the grain and buy one, completely disassemble the thing, including all bearings. Pack with grease (which they sometimes leave out) and adjust the bearings properly (which they don't do).
The problem is, you have too many choices, too much advice, and no real data from which to make a decision. If you go read some research on that kind of situation, you'll find happiness is not possible. You'll second guess any decision you make.
So here's the deal: buy a bike that fits and is not junk, and it will serve your needs for a good while. If you stick with cycling (which you won't do if the bike doesn't fit or is junk), then you'll eventually figure out what's important.
I don't see where you live; if there's a bike co-op nearby, go there. They should have volunteers to help with fitting, and may have a bike for you. Depending on the co-op, they may even have an earn-a-bike program where you can get a bike with volunteer hours. Then you use your money for nice bits they don't have. In the process you learn how to build a bike, which will come in handy.
Lacking a co-op, I'm for online research regarding fit; not a fan of going to an LBS with no intent to purchase. Others disagree; your choice. Some bike shops do sell used; prices are usually premium but they might have something in your range. Caution: an unscrupulous shop or salesman might sell you an ill-fitting used bike. Do your homework.
Okay, with that general stuff out of the way, here's my advice:
Look for rigid hardtail MTB (that means no suspension, front or rear).
(Regarding suspension. On low end bikes, suspension is crap, just dead weight. On pavement, unless you're going to ride over curbs, suspension is unnecessary.)
80's or 90's sports/touring bikes can be decent commuters. Cantilevered brakes can be awesome if well adjusted, and leave room for fenders.
(Regarding fenders. Some love 'em, some hate 'em. Your choice. They keep the spray off your body and your bike. If you want fenders, look for mounting eyelets at the front and rear dropouts.)
Old vintage bikes can be cool if you're into that, but avoid rim brakes with chrome rims. I mean something like a '70's Schwinn Collegiate unquestionably has a certain style, and I suppose you're probably not going to get it going too terribly fast, but get some water on those chrome wheels and it's going to take a good long while to stop.
(Regarding style. Price wise it's best if you don't care about style. If you care about style, that's going to limit your options. Your choice.)
And finally. You will find people who swear by big-box store bikes. I'm no fan; quality is compromised for cost in every aspect, from raw materials to design to manufacturing to assembly. Even bikes you find in sporting goods stores are suspect. But if you do go against the grain and buy one, completely disassemble the thing, including all bearings. Pack with grease (which they sometimes leave out) and adjust the bearings properly (which they don't do).
11-30-14, 09:29 PM
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Actually it sounds like you might be a candidate for a flat bar road bike or a hybrid. Bikes with a more upright riding position are better suited for riding in town in traffic or slower riding on greenways, and a new bike might be within your budget.
However, if you want a roadbike, yes the Allez is a good model. Most important is to know what size bike you ride. Don't make the mistake many new riders make of looking at price without knowing the correct frame size. Once you have your frame size, then it's easy to cruise Craigslist in your area waiting for a good, affordable bike to be listed. You can determine your size by going to an LBS and act like you're interested in buying a bike. If you're not comfortable with that, and I would not be, you can search the web or go to bikesdirect.com and look at charts to get some idea. However, actually riding a given frame size is the best way to dial in the correct size. Keep in mind the saddle is adjustable and you can change the stem to fit your riding style. There is only one don't do that, don't buy from a department store. They sell stamped out bikes that may not have been assembled by a bike mechanic, they don't wait on you to assure you're riding the right frame size and frequently don't offer different frame sizes in the same model. That's a huge don't do it.
However, if you want a roadbike, yes the Allez is a good model. Most important is to know what size bike you ride. Don't make the mistake many new riders make of looking at price without knowing the correct frame size. Once you have your frame size, then it's easy to cruise Craigslist in your area waiting for a good, affordable bike to be listed. You can determine your size by going to an LBS and act like you're interested in buying a bike. If you're not comfortable with that, and I would not be, you can search the web or go to bikesdirect.com and look at charts to get some idea. However, actually riding a given frame size is the best way to dial in the correct size. Keep in mind the saddle is adjustable and you can change the stem to fit your riding style. There is only one don't do that, don't buy from a department store. They sell stamped out bikes that may not have been assembled by a bike mechanic, they don't wait on you to assure you're riding the right frame size and frequently don't offer different frame sizes in the same model. That's a huge don't do it.
12-01-14, 12:17 PM
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I really appreciate the time you all have spent responding to this, appreciate the content too. The more the better, as long as you don't mind me asking follow up questions
Im going to look into what's been posted so far, so I can speak a little but better to this info, then get back as soon as I can.
Im going to look into what's been posted so far, so I can speak a little but better to this info, then get back as soon as I can.
12-02-14, 02:07 PM
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Speaking from experience, a road bike is not a good/practical way to go if you're going to be riding with kids. I found it too hard to ride that slow for that long with my kids. We usually rode around in the neighborhood, and over to the park (about 3/4 of a mile each way) with total ride distances usually being under 5 miles.
For riding with the kids on city streets, I'd recommend a mountain bike, or a fat tire hybrid bike. You'll find it easier to go slow, and more comfortable than a skinny tire road bike.
Of course for more speed, or fitness riding I prefer a road bike.
If you shop and choose wisely you could easily get two good used bikes in the current market. Used mountain bikes aren't worth much. I bought three this summer for $75 or less (2006 Trek 8000 (for parts with broken frame) for $35, 2000 Trek 6000 for $75, and 1994 Trek 930 for $30. The Trek 930 is my favorite of the bunch (I have two of these now) and it has a steel frame. The two newer bikes are aluminum framed, and I didn't like them as much. They are gone already.
I also bought five Trek road bikes: 1993 2300 Composite with 8-speed brifters (traded a bike and got $100 cash), 1997 1420 aluminum 7-speed with brifters (had bent wheels and handlebars) for $100, 1990 1100 triple crank (bent rear wheel) for $40, 1992 1200 (60cm frame too big, was told it was a 56cm on the phone, currently for sale), and 1988 1000 (gift for son, needed tires, tubes, and some brake parts) for $30.
If you can ride a 60cm frame, I have the Trek 1200 listed as available for trade (in the "Frame Doesn't Fit Thread"). Will also consider selling outright for a good price.
Look on Craigslist for bikes that need a little TLC. Older Treks, Specialized, Cannondales, and Giants are good safe bets. Have cash handy and be ready to jump when you see something interesting, you will be competing with Bike Flippers for the bargains. Odds are that you will be able to find more bargains than you can affort to store, with a little effort. In today's disposable society, things that are no longer shiny are not worth much to their owners.
If you post your location, there are many forum Members that don't mind sifting through Craigslist and making recommendations for you. Knowing how tall you are, and what the inseam on your pants is would help.
Good, solid, used 1990s bikes should be perfect for $300-$400, needing nothing. $25-$100 will buy the same bike in TLC/project condition. $100-$200 should buy you a bike in rideable condition that still need some touches to perfect.
Don't buy used bikes with carbon fiber frames, or forks until you gain some experience. Stay away from old, old bikes that have 27" wheels (tire selection can be limited). Fit is everything, don't buy a cheap bike just because it's cheap. It has to fit. And, keep in mind that bargain bikes that need parts can quickly become money pits. It's not unusual to come across used bikes that have been sitting and need tires, tubes, saddles, chains, brake or shifter cables, and lubrication. When they need shifters, cranksets, or wheels the repair costs goes way up.
If you have time to work on your bike, getting as fixer and shopping on Craigslist for parts is a good way to go. This summer I had better luck with Craigslist than I did with eBay buying wheels, tires, and derailleurs.
Invest in some tools. You will find them invaluable when you need to deal with adjustments and repairs on your kid/s bike/s.
For riding with the kids on city streets, I'd recommend a mountain bike, or a fat tire hybrid bike. You'll find it easier to go slow, and more comfortable than a skinny tire road bike.
Of course for more speed, or fitness riding I prefer a road bike.
If you shop and choose wisely you could easily get two good used bikes in the current market. Used mountain bikes aren't worth much. I bought three this summer for $75 or less (2006 Trek 8000 (for parts with broken frame) for $35, 2000 Trek 6000 for $75, and 1994 Trek 930 for $30. The Trek 930 is my favorite of the bunch (I have two of these now) and it has a steel frame. The two newer bikes are aluminum framed, and I didn't like them as much. They are gone already.
I also bought five Trek road bikes: 1993 2300 Composite with 8-speed brifters (traded a bike and got $100 cash), 1997 1420 aluminum 7-speed with brifters (had bent wheels and handlebars) for $100, 1990 1100 triple crank (bent rear wheel) for $40, 1992 1200 (60cm frame too big, was told it was a 56cm on the phone, currently for sale), and 1988 1000 (gift for son, needed tires, tubes, and some brake parts) for $30.
If you can ride a 60cm frame, I have the Trek 1200 listed as available for trade (in the "Frame Doesn't Fit Thread"). Will also consider selling outright for a good price.
Look on Craigslist for bikes that need a little TLC. Older Treks, Specialized, Cannondales, and Giants are good safe bets. Have cash handy and be ready to jump when you see something interesting, you will be competing with Bike Flippers for the bargains. Odds are that you will be able to find more bargains than you can affort to store, with a little effort. In today's disposable society, things that are no longer shiny are not worth much to their owners.
If you post your location, there are many forum Members that don't mind sifting through Craigslist and making recommendations for you. Knowing how tall you are, and what the inseam on your pants is would help.
Good, solid, used 1990s bikes should be perfect for $300-$400, needing nothing. $25-$100 will buy the same bike in TLC/project condition. $100-$200 should buy you a bike in rideable condition that still need some touches to perfect.
Don't buy used bikes with carbon fiber frames, or forks until you gain some experience. Stay away from old, old bikes that have 27" wheels (tire selection can be limited). Fit is everything, don't buy a cheap bike just because it's cheap. It has to fit. And, keep in mind that bargain bikes that need parts can quickly become money pits. It's not unusual to come across used bikes that have been sitting and need tires, tubes, saddles, chains, brake or shifter cables, and lubrication. When they need shifters, cranksets, or wheels the repair costs goes way up.
If you have time to work on your bike, getting as fixer and shopping on Craigslist for parts is a good way to go. This summer I had better luck with Craigslist than I did with eBay buying wheels, tires, and derailleurs.
Invest in some tools. You will find them invaluable when you need to deal with adjustments and repairs on your kid/s bike/s.
Last edited by RoadGuy; 12-02-14 at 02:19 PM.
12-03-14, 10:23 PM
#11
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Calder, how many miles do you expect to ride one-way to work? (How many miles in the saddle, not on the bike rack?) Is this something you will need to lock up at work, or do you have somewhere to park it? How are the roads you'll be riding?
A road bike like the Allez, even an old/used one, with integrated shifters, will max out your $400 budget. Expect to pay that much, plus an extra $100-$200 for replacement parts that an old bike sometimes needs (tires, brake pads, etc). A road bike is great fun for riding as fast as you can (if you have a long-ish commute) but they are not very comfortable at crawling speeds with the 9-year-old, and the narrow tires are slippery on sand-covered concrete paths. Also, for commute use, if you need to carry anything with you (change of clothes or something) you'll need to carry a backpack, or get some sort of additional clamp-on rack, as most older bikes don't have accommodations for cargo.
Some other considerations:
Singlespeed bikes: Check out singlespeed or fixed-gear bikes. If you didn't mind BMX back in the day, some manufacturers are making 29" BMX bikes that would be familiar in feel but would also make good commuters. Check out Retro Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com off the top of my head. While you're there, check Urban Series, Bikes | SEBikes.com - these are mechanically similar to old school BMX bikes, but with frames that seat you more like a road bike. Again, this is just one of many brands that sell such a bike- Specialized's Langster is much like these, but far lighter and speedier.
Fitness/Hybrid bikes like the Specialized Sirrus Specialized Bicycle Components or Trek FX or Fuji Absolute (every major brand has a line of these) are very light like a road bike but far cheaper and more versatile. You can probably get a bike in this category new for around your budget.
I was already thinking that I would need to carry everything I'm traveling with on my back. Don't think I'll be able to rack anything, on the back of the tire? Your post seems to infer that a non road bike would accommodate more?
12-03-14, 10:27 PM
#12
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Allez is a good possibility.
Aluminum frame can handle a bit more knocking around on the bike rack.
Depending on where you live, a less fancy bike can also be less theft-prone.
If buying used, more modern i.e. 9 or 10 speed cassette (rear cogs) is simpler to upgrade/get parts for. (This statement will be challenged)
Vintage bikes often have racing gearing (not good for hills), which can be less than straight forward to change.
However, an older but better quality bike beats a newer, cheaper (department store) bike.
Try to ride a number of bikes to get an idea of what frame size to look for.
Aluminum frame can handle a bit more knocking around on the bike rack.
Depending on where you live, a less fancy bike can also be less theft-prone.
If buying used, more modern i.e. 9 or 10 speed cassette (rear cogs) is simpler to upgrade/get parts for. (This statement will be challenged)
Vintage bikes often have racing gearing (not good for hills), which can be less than straight forward to change.
However, an older but better quality bike beats a newer, cheaper (department store) bike.
Try to ride a number of bikes to get an idea of what frame size to look for.
So either a good shape used one (which may be hard for me to ascertain), or a new one probably.
However I agree with this fully...
12-03-14, 10:41 PM
#13
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Buy a bike that fits. Everything else is way way secondary.
The problem is, you have too many choices, too much advice, and no real data from which to make a decision. If you go read some research on that kind of situation, you'll find happiness is not possible. You'll second guess any decision you make.
So here's the deal: buy a bike that fits and is not junk, and it will serve your needs for a good while. If you stick with cycling (which you won't do if the bike doesn't fit or is junk), then you'll eventually figure out what's important.
I don't see where you live; if there's a bike co-op nearby, go there. They should have volunteers to help with fitting, and may have a bike for you. Depending on the co-op, they may even have an earn-a-bike program where you can get a bike with volunteer hours. Then you use your money for nice bits they don't have. In the process you learn how to build a bike, which will come in handy.
Lacking a co-op, I'm for online research regarding fit; not a fan of going to an LBS with no intent to purchase. Others disagree; your choice. Some bike shops do sell used; prices are usually premium but they might have something in your range. Caution: an unscrupulous shop or salesman might sell you an ill-fitting used bike. Do your homework.
Okay, with that general stuff out of the way, here's my advice:
Look for rigid hardtail MTB (that means no suspension, front or rear).
(Regarding suspension. On low end bikes, suspension is crap, just dead weight. On pavement, unless you're going to ride over curbs, suspension is unnecessary.)
80's or 90's sports/touring bikes can be decent commuters. Cantilevered brakes can be awesome if well adjusted, and leave room for fenders.
(Regarding fenders. Some love 'em, some hate 'em. Your choice. They keep the spray off your body and your bike. If you want fenders, look for mounting eyelets at the front and rear dropouts.)
Old vintage bikes can be cool if you're into that, but avoid rim brakes with chrome rims. I mean something like a '70's Schwinn Collegiate unquestionably has a certain style, and I suppose you're probably not going to get it going too terribly fast, but get some water on those chrome wheels and it's going to take a good long while to stop.
(Regarding style. Price wise it's best if you don't care about style. If you care about style, that's going to limit your options. Your choice.)
And finally. You will find people who swear by big-box store bikes. I'm no fan; quality is compromised for cost in every aspect, from raw materials to design to manufacturing to assembly. Even bikes you find in sporting goods stores are suspect. But if you do go against the grain and buy one, completely disassemble the thing, including all bearings. Pack with grease (which they sometimes leave out) and adjust the bearings properly (which they don't do).
The problem is, you have too many choices, too much advice, and no real data from which to make a decision. If you go read some research on that kind of situation, you'll find happiness is not possible. You'll second guess any decision you make.
So here's the deal: buy a bike that fits and is not junk, and it will serve your needs for a good while. If you stick with cycling (which you won't do if the bike doesn't fit or is junk), then you'll eventually figure out what's important.
I don't see where you live; if there's a bike co-op nearby, go there. They should have volunteers to help with fitting, and may have a bike for you. Depending on the co-op, they may even have an earn-a-bike program where you can get a bike with volunteer hours. Then you use your money for nice bits they don't have. In the process you learn how to build a bike, which will come in handy.
Lacking a co-op, I'm for online research regarding fit; not a fan of going to an LBS with no intent to purchase. Others disagree; your choice. Some bike shops do sell used; prices are usually premium but they might have something in your range. Caution: an unscrupulous shop or salesman might sell you an ill-fitting used bike. Do your homework.
Okay, with that general stuff out of the way, here's my advice:
Look for rigid hardtail MTB (that means no suspension, front or rear).
(Regarding suspension. On low end bikes, suspension is crap, just dead weight. On pavement, unless you're going to ride over curbs, suspension is unnecessary.)
80's or 90's sports/touring bikes can be decent commuters. Cantilevered brakes can be awesome if well adjusted, and leave room for fenders.
(Regarding fenders. Some love 'em, some hate 'em. Your choice. They keep the spray off your body and your bike. If you want fenders, look for mounting eyelets at the front and rear dropouts.)
Old vintage bikes can be cool if you're into that, but avoid rim brakes with chrome rims. I mean something like a '70's Schwinn Collegiate unquestionably has a certain style, and I suppose you're probably not going to get it going too terribly fast, but get some water on those chrome wheels and it's going to take a good long while to stop.
(Regarding style. Price wise it's best if you don't care about style. If you care about style, that's going to limit your options. Your choice.)
And finally. You will find people who swear by big-box store bikes. I'm no fan; quality is compromised for cost in every aspect, from raw materials to design to manufacturing to assembly. Even bikes you find in sporting goods stores are suspect. But if you do go against the grain and buy one, completely disassemble the thing, including all bearings. Pack with grease (which they sometimes leave out) and adjust the bearings properly (which they don't do).
BUt I understand about a lot of your points.
So far:
1. no suspension
2. probably new (I would love to get an old bike that's a better fit for me and my situation and fit good parts to it, but I don't have the time for that this time. maybe next purchase if I get into it more.)
As far as the LBS, how about if I get fitted there, and buy a helmet there during that visit. That way I'm supporting the store.
Would rather stay away from big box store bikes. I am familiar with the quality of the mass produced, but what brands are these? If these brands are limited to the Targets, Walmarts etc. than I don't need to know this, I'll just stay away..
12-03-14, 11:40 PM
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The part of the commute on the bike will with be only a couple miles or less, or possibly as much as 10 miles. I would like to able to ride for a couple hours with my 9 year old son though, so maybe that's the benchmark. maybe the road bike isn't a great idea.
I was already thinking that I would need to carry everything I'm traveling with on my back. Don't think I'll be able to rack anything, on the back of the tire? Your post seems to infer that a non road bike would accommodate more?
I was already thinking that I would need to carry everything I'm traveling with on my back. Don't think I'll be able to rack anything, on the back of the tire? Your post seems to infer that a non road bike would accommodate more?
I think a road bike is a great way to go for a long commute and a minimum of extra weight, but a poor choice for cruising with the kid. I think a hybrid bike would be a nice compromise. An old mountain bike (something without a suspension fork) equipped with pavement tires would be a third choice- heavier and slower, but best at taking heavy loads and rough pavement.
The style tax can be pretty pricey. It can convince you to buy something too expensive, ill-fitting or otherwise not what you want. Try to ignore style if you're on a budget
12-04-14, 12:14 AM
#15
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Given your budget and riding goals, I'll give another vote for a fitness hybrid. Try a couple of different brands, buy the one you love the most.
12-06-14, 07:53 PM
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12-06-14, 08:01 PM
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Speaking from experience, a road bike is not a good/practical way to go if you're going to be riding with kids. I found it too hard to ride that slow for that long with my kids. We usually rode around in the neighborhood, and over to the park (about 3/4 of a mile each way) with total ride distances usually being under 5 miles.
For riding with the kids on city streets, I'd recommend a mountain bike, or a fat tire hybrid bike. You'll find it easier to go slow, and more comfortable than a skinny tire road bike.
Of course for more speed, or fitness riding I prefer a road bike.
If you shop and choose wisely you could easily get two good used bikes in the current market. Used mountain bikes aren't worth much. I bought three this summer for $75 or less (2006 Trek 8000 (for parts with broken frame) for $35, 2000 Trek 6000 for $75, and 1994 Trek 930 for $30. The Trek 930 is my favorite of the bunch (I have two of these now) and it has a steel frame. The two newer bikes are aluminum framed, and I didn't like them as much. They are gone already.
I also bought five Trek road bikes: 1993 2300 Composite with 8-speed brifters (traded a bike and got $100 cash), 1997 1420 aluminum 7-speed with brifters (had bent wheels and handlebars) for $100, 1990 1100 triple crank (bent rear wheel) for $40, 1992 1200 (60cm frame too big, was told it was a 56cm on the phone, currently for sale), and 1988 1000 (gift for son, needed tires, tubes, and some brake parts) for $30.
If you can ride a 60cm frame, I have the Trek 1200 listed as available for trade (in the "Frame Doesn't Fit Thread"). Will also consider selling outright for a good price.
Look on Craigslist for bikes that need a little TLC. Older Treks, Specialized, Cannondales, and Giants are good safe bets. Have cash handy and be ready to jump when you see something interesting, you will be competing with Bike Flippers for the bargains. Odds are that you will be able to find more bargains than you can affort to store, with a little effort. In today's disposable society, things that are no longer shiny are not worth much to their owners.
If you post your location, there are many forum Members that don't mind sifting through Craigslist and making recommendations for you. Knowing how tall you are, and what the inseam on your pants is would help.
Good, solid, used 1990s bikes should be perfect for $300-$400, needing nothing. $25-$100 will buy the same bike in TLC/project condition. $100-$200 should buy you a bike in rideable condition that still need some touches to perfect.
Don't buy used bikes with carbon fiber frames, or forks until you gain some experience. Stay away from old, old bikes that have 27" wheels (tire selection can be limited). Fit is everything, don't buy a cheap bike just because it's cheap. It has to fit. And, keep in mind that bargain bikes that need parts can quickly become money pits. It's not unusual to come across used bikes that have been sitting and need tires, tubes, saddles, chains, brake or shifter cables, and lubrication. When they need shifters, cranksets, or wheels the repair costs goes way up.
If you have time to work on your bike, getting as fixer and shopping on Craigslist for parts is a good way to go. This summer I had better luck with Craigslist than I did with eBay buying wheels, tires, and derailleurs.
Invest in some tools. You will find them invaluable when you need to deal with adjustments and repairs on your kid/s bike/s.
For riding with the kids on city streets, I'd recommend a mountain bike, or a fat tire hybrid bike. You'll find it easier to go slow, and more comfortable than a skinny tire road bike.
Of course for more speed, or fitness riding I prefer a road bike.
If you shop and choose wisely you could easily get two good used bikes in the current market. Used mountain bikes aren't worth much. I bought three this summer for $75 or less (2006 Trek 8000 (for parts with broken frame) for $35, 2000 Trek 6000 for $75, and 1994 Trek 930 for $30. The Trek 930 is my favorite of the bunch (I have two of these now) and it has a steel frame. The two newer bikes are aluminum framed, and I didn't like them as much. They are gone already.
I also bought five Trek road bikes: 1993 2300 Composite with 8-speed brifters (traded a bike and got $100 cash), 1997 1420 aluminum 7-speed with brifters (had bent wheels and handlebars) for $100, 1990 1100 triple crank (bent rear wheel) for $40, 1992 1200 (60cm frame too big, was told it was a 56cm on the phone, currently for sale), and 1988 1000 (gift for son, needed tires, tubes, and some brake parts) for $30.
If you can ride a 60cm frame, I have the Trek 1200 listed as available for trade (in the "Frame Doesn't Fit Thread"). Will also consider selling outright for a good price.
Look on Craigslist for bikes that need a little TLC. Older Treks, Specialized, Cannondales, and Giants are good safe bets. Have cash handy and be ready to jump when you see something interesting, you will be competing with Bike Flippers for the bargains. Odds are that you will be able to find more bargains than you can affort to store, with a little effort. In today's disposable society, things that are no longer shiny are not worth much to their owners.
If you post your location, there are many forum Members that don't mind sifting through Craigslist and making recommendations for you. Knowing how tall you are, and what the inseam on your pants is would help.
Good, solid, used 1990s bikes should be perfect for $300-$400, needing nothing. $25-$100 will buy the same bike in TLC/project condition. $100-$200 should buy you a bike in rideable condition that still need some touches to perfect.
Don't buy used bikes with carbon fiber frames, or forks until you gain some experience. Stay away from old, old bikes that have 27" wheels (tire selection can be limited). Fit is everything, don't buy a cheap bike just because it's cheap. It has to fit. And, keep in mind that bargain bikes that need parts can quickly become money pits. It's not unusual to come across used bikes that have been sitting and need tires, tubes, saddles, chains, brake or shifter cables, and lubrication. When they need shifters, cranksets, or wheels the repair costs goes way up.
If you have time to work on your bike, getting as fixer and shopping on Craigslist for parts is a good way to go. This summer I had better luck with Craigslist than I did with eBay buying wheels, tires, and derailleurs.
Invest in some tools. You will find them invaluable when you need to deal with adjustments and repairs on your kid/s bike/s.
Do you have any hybrids?
12-06-14, 08:18 PM
#18
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Nice hybrids start at around $400-450. I think they're slightly less expensive than comparable mountain bikes of similar quality (in terms of frame and component) because the MTB has a suspension system, and that adds cost (and, BTW, weight).
In terms of brands, all the major ones have a line of fitness hybrids. For Trek, it's the FX series. The FX 7.2 is VERY popular; you pretty much do a price/quality trade-off as you move up the line, with the 7.7 being a flat-bar road bike.
Folks also like the Cannondale Quick line; Specialized has the Sirrus line; Fuji has the Absolute line. Each brand should have a model at your price point. I'd suggest test riding as many brands as you can. Even though they look very similar on paper, they ride somewhat differently. One of them will make you love it.
12-06-14, 11:34 PM
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^^^^^^^^
What mcmoose said. You can check out some of the threads in the Hybrids forum. Lots of people ask about purchases. And there should be a thread that has "show me your hybrid bike". Check out the bikes and if you see one that you like, figure out what it is. Oh, and Giant has the Escape hybrid line. Bikes in the same price range will generally have similar features. I think Fuji and Giant brands offer better value per dollar. I found that Specialized brand had higher prices for similar bike. Trek and Cannondale were somewhere between the two. REI brand Novara hybrids (if you live near and REI) aren't mentioned often, but I rarely see complaints about them.
Go to LBS and try out bikes. If you purchase a bike, they will sometimes offer some percentage off any accessories you purchase. Look for a 2014 model that is on sale to save a few bucks.
And rule number one: top criteria for bike selection is FIT. Looks and color come second.
What mcmoose said. You can check out some of the threads in the Hybrids forum. Lots of people ask about purchases. And there should be a thread that has "show me your hybrid bike". Check out the bikes and if you see one that you like, figure out what it is. Oh, and Giant has the Escape hybrid line. Bikes in the same price range will generally have similar features. I think Fuji and Giant brands offer better value per dollar. I found that Specialized brand had higher prices for similar bike. Trek and Cannondale were somewhere between the two. REI brand Novara hybrids (if you live near and REI) aren't mentioned often, but I rarely see complaints about them.
Go to LBS and try out bikes. If you purchase a bike, they will sometimes offer some percentage off any accessories you purchase. Look for a 2014 model that is on sale to save a few bucks.
And rule number one: top criteria for bike selection is FIT. Looks and color come second.
12-07-14, 12:39 AM
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No, I don't own any hybrids, so I can't give you any recommendations (based on riding one) on riding a hybrid with kids.
Earlier this year I was considering buying a hybrid and riding it to see if there was anything there. I didn't because I came across a multitude of Trek road bikes that i was more interested in owning.
I would think that a hybrid would be more comfortable when riding with kids than a road bike because of the more relaxed frame angles, and wider tires. But not as easy to ride or as comfortable to ride with kids as a mountain bike.
Resale on hybrids is pretty low, the starting prices are lower than nice road bikes, and the people who buy them are often newcomers and not so dedicated to riding, so you can probably find a newer hybrid for very reasonable money. Trek 7100, 7.1, 7200, etc... in fairly unused condition are often offered for sale locally on Craigslist for $100-$200 (bikes that cost new between $600-$900).
On the other hand, I still think a mountain would be more comfortable, and used high end mountain bikes depreciate even faster than hybrids, and have practically no reasonable resale (if you bought it new, don't expect much back after two or three years). You can get a nice used 9XX Series steel framed Trek mountain bike for between $30-$150. I bought a 2nd 930 SHK (hardtail) earlier this year for $30.
Last edited by RoadGuy; 12-07-14 at 12:51 AM.
12-07-14, 08:34 PM
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On the other hand, I still think a mountain would be more comfortable, and used high end mountain bikes depreciate even faster than hybrids, and have practically no reasonable resale (if you bought it new, don't expect much back after two or three years). You can get a nice used 9XX Series steel framed Trek mountain bike for between $30-$150. I bought a 2nd 930 SHK (hardtail) earlier this year for $30.
Are there any threads or links for a running checklist to spot problems in used bikes?
The last two posts have sufficiently potentially swayed me from hybrids to a mountain bike, and truthfully if there was no internet and I was just left to my own design I would seek a mountain bike. I have the most experience with them riding one as a kid. Maybe that would be a good enough decision.
12-07-14, 08:39 PM
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Thanks, will do.
^^^^^^^^
What mcmoose said. You can check out some of the threads in the Hybrids forum. Lots of people ask about purchases. And there should be a thread that has "show me your hybrid bike". Check out the bikes and if you see one that you like, figure out what it is. Oh, and Giant has the Escape hybrid line. Bikes in the same price range will generally have similar features. I think Fuji and Giant brands offer better value per dollar. I found that Specialized brand had higher prices for similar bike. Trek and Cannondale were somewhere between the two. REI brand Novara hybrids (if you live near and REI) aren't mentioned often, but I rarely see complaints about them.
Go to LBS and try out bikes. If you purchase a bike, they will sometimes offer some percentage off any accessories you purchase. Look for a 2014 model that is on sale to save a few bucks.
And rule number one: top criteria for bike selection is FIT. Looks and color come second.
What mcmoose said. You can check out some of the threads in the Hybrids forum. Lots of people ask about purchases. And there should be a thread that has "show me your hybrid bike". Check out the bikes and if you see one that you like, figure out what it is. Oh, and Giant has the Escape hybrid line. Bikes in the same price range will generally have similar features. I think Fuji and Giant brands offer better value per dollar. I found that Specialized brand had higher prices for similar bike. Trek and Cannondale were somewhere between the two. REI brand Novara hybrids (if you live near and REI) aren't mentioned often, but I rarely see complaints about them.
Go to LBS and try out bikes. If you purchase a bike, they will sometimes offer some percentage off any accessories you purchase. Look for a 2014 model that is on sale to save a few bucks.
And rule number one: top criteria for bike selection is FIT. Looks and color come second.
12-07-14, 09:23 PM
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Not all used bikes are neglected, abused, and left out in the weather for years abandoned.
Plenty are bought with good intentions, ridden a few times, then hung up in garages, or stuffed in closets without a thought for years.
The most important feature is fit. No matter how good it looks, or how low the price, the bike that doesn't fit won't be ridden.
When searching Craigslist for a bike, you can't go strictly by the Seller's description. They can't even get the tires size right, although it's printed clearly on the sides of tires. As you become more familiar with bikes you will be able to estimate the size of the frame by looking at the head tube, and the height of the top tube and seat lug over the tires. comparison shop used bikes by looking at the photos. Have cash ready and go see bike that look interesting to you as soon as you can after you spot them. Know that in most markets, the best bike bargain get snapped up immediately by Bike Flippers. When you have a hard time contacting the Seller, it's a good thing, because many bargains that don't get snapped up are because the Seller is hard to reach, or hard to make a deal with.
Test ride every bike before considering buying it. You're going to be disappointed with the ride of many of them, even when you lusted after them from the photos. When you find the right bike, and it's the right size, it will sing to you.
When you go to see a bike, check the frame over for damage (cracks. dents, bends, and rust damage). Is the derailleur hanger built-in, or replaceable? Almost every bike of age will show some surface rust (easily removed) on the steel parts. My bikes collect rust sitting in the garage if I don't remember to polish and wax them periodically.
Check the wheels for missing spokes and to see if they are true. Check for bends or cracks on the rims, and check for wear on the brake tracks. Do the wheels, pedals and crankset spin smoothly? Do they need to be serviced? Does the headset rotate smoothly, and is it loose or crunchy?
Do the shifters work smoothly, and are the teeth of the chainwheels and the rear cogs in good condition or worn/worn-out?
You should expect that some parts might need replacement. Tires, inner tubes, pedals, saddles, handlebar grips, chains, rear cassettes, freewheels, chainrings, shifters, shifter and brake cables and cable housing, and handlebar tape are all expendable. Pay attention to what needs to be replaced and deduct amounts to cover replacement from any offer you make to the Seller.
Two examples of what I am talking about are the Trek 1100 Road bike that I bought a couple of months ago, and the Trek 930 SHK mountain bike that I bought at the beginning of the summer.
The Trek 1100 cost me $40. The Seller was advertising it for $75. I asked if it was rusty and what size the frame was before I drove down to look at it. I was told there was no rust, there was nothing wrong with the bike, and it was measured at 21" on the frame. I got down there, and I found the frame was 22", the handlebar stem had some rust and corrosion, and the rear wheel looked like it needed to be replaced. The component group was Suntour. When I went to replace the rear wheel, I could not switch to a cassette without replacing the shifters and the front and rear derailleurs. I chose to move to a 8-speed cassette system since it would cost me the same amount as staying with a 7-speed freewheel, seeing how I was being forced to buy new derailleurs and shifters anyway. The tires, inner tubes, and rim strip needed replacing due to old age. Including the gas my car burned going to pick up the bike up, I have about $150-$175 in it, after deducting the money I got for the old wheelset (I was able to save the rear rim). It now has brand new tires, tubes, rim strips, chain, Shimano front and rear derailleurs, and downtube shifters. It rides great, and with the 24 speed drivetrain, I'm looking forward to seeing how it climbs with it's triple crank. Now I need to figure out why I like the ride better than the newer Trek 1400 with brifters and more expensive tires that I got earlier this year. I could not buy a bike in this condition for less than $400.
I bought the trek 930 SHX mostly for the frame as it's the same model and year as another Trek 930 SHX that I traded for back in 1997. The rear shifter is broken, the plastic body pedals are worn-out, the steel aftermarket handlebars and handlebar stem that the Previous Owner installed are rusty, the Rock Shock Quadra is dead, and the tires are age cracked. What it has is a good frame and good original wheels that I am planning on transferring the upgraded components from my other 830 SHX. My first one is in great mechanical condition, but the frame is ugly due to abuse from the original owner. I still have some of the parts that I took off my first 930 SHX, and I could use a blend of them, and parts from my spares box to build it up for use as a loaner, or to sell off (or may be giveaway) bringing my final cost for the swap to less than ZERO.
Plenty are bought with good intentions, ridden a few times, then hung up in garages, or stuffed in closets without a thought for years.
The most important feature is fit. No matter how good it looks, or how low the price, the bike that doesn't fit won't be ridden.
When searching Craigslist for a bike, you can't go strictly by the Seller's description. They can't even get the tires size right, although it's printed clearly on the sides of tires. As you become more familiar with bikes you will be able to estimate the size of the frame by looking at the head tube, and the height of the top tube and seat lug over the tires. comparison shop used bikes by looking at the photos. Have cash ready and go see bike that look interesting to you as soon as you can after you spot them. Know that in most markets, the best bike bargain get snapped up immediately by Bike Flippers. When you have a hard time contacting the Seller, it's a good thing, because many bargains that don't get snapped up are because the Seller is hard to reach, or hard to make a deal with.
Test ride every bike before considering buying it. You're going to be disappointed with the ride of many of them, even when you lusted after them from the photos. When you find the right bike, and it's the right size, it will sing to you.
When you go to see a bike, check the frame over for damage (cracks. dents, bends, and rust damage). Is the derailleur hanger built-in, or replaceable? Almost every bike of age will show some surface rust (easily removed) on the steel parts. My bikes collect rust sitting in the garage if I don't remember to polish and wax them periodically.
Check the wheels for missing spokes and to see if they are true. Check for bends or cracks on the rims, and check for wear on the brake tracks. Do the wheels, pedals and crankset spin smoothly? Do they need to be serviced? Does the headset rotate smoothly, and is it loose or crunchy?
Do the shifters work smoothly, and are the teeth of the chainwheels and the rear cogs in good condition or worn/worn-out?
You should expect that some parts might need replacement. Tires, inner tubes, pedals, saddles, handlebar grips, chains, rear cassettes, freewheels, chainrings, shifters, shifter and brake cables and cable housing, and handlebar tape are all expendable. Pay attention to what needs to be replaced and deduct amounts to cover replacement from any offer you make to the Seller.
Two examples of what I am talking about are the Trek 1100 Road bike that I bought a couple of months ago, and the Trek 930 SHK mountain bike that I bought at the beginning of the summer.
The Trek 1100 cost me $40. The Seller was advertising it for $75. I asked if it was rusty and what size the frame was before I drove down to look at it. I was told there was no rust, there was nothing wrong with the bike, and it was measured at 21" on the frame. I got down there, and I found the frame was 22", the handlebar stem had some rust and corrosion, and the rear wheel looked like it needed to be replaced. The component group was Suntour. When I went to replace the rear wheel, I could not switch to a cassette without replacing the shifters and the front and rear derailleurs. I chose to move to a 8-speed cassette system since it would cost me the same amount as staying with a 7-speed freewheel, seeing how I was being forced to buy new derailleurs and shifters anyway. The tires, inner tubes, and rim strip needed replacing due to old age. Including the gas my car burned going to pick up the bike up, I have about $150-$175 in it, after deducting the money I got for the old wheelset (I was able to save the rear rim). It now has brand new tires, tubes, rim strips, chain, Shimano front and rear derailleurs, and downtube shifters. It rides great, and with the 24 speed drivetrain, I'm looking forward to seeing how it climbs with it's triple crank. Now I need to figure out why I like the ride better than the newer Trek 1400 with brifters and more expensive tires that I got earlier this year. I could not buy a bike in this condition for less than $400.
I bought the trek 930 SHX mostly for the frame as it's the same model and year as another Trek 930 SHX that I traded for back in 1997. The rear shifter is broken, the plastic body pedals are worn-out, the steel aftermarket handlebars and handlebar stem that the Previous Owner installed are rusty, the Rock Shock Quadra is dead, and the tires are age cracked. What it has is a good frame and good original wheels that I am planning on transferring the upgraded components from my other 830 SHX. My first one is in great mechanical condition, but the frame is ugly due to abuse from the original owner. I still have some of the parts that I took off my first 930 SHX, and I could use a blend of them, and parts from my spares box to build it up for use as a loaner, or to sell off (or may be giveaway) bringing my final cost for the swap to less than ZERO.
12-07-14, 09:44 PM
#24
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Not all used bike are neglected.
I'm currently selling my Madone because i'm upgrading. Its out of the OP's price range but someone is going to get a "ready to ride" carbon bike for 50% what it cost new 3 seasons ago. I just spend 5 hours cleaning it and making adjustments so the new owner can ride it as is.
Last year my son upgraded his road bike and sold his old one for $600 including pedals and a bike computer. It was a Ridley aloy frame, carbon fork and Campy components.
Deals are out there if you look.
I'm currently selling my Madone because i'm upgrading. Its out of the OP's price range but someone is going to get a "ready to ride" carbon bike for 50% what it cost new 3 seasons ago. I just spend 5 hours cleaning it and making adjustments so the new owner can ride it as is.
Last year my son upgraded his road bike and sold his old one for $600 including pedals and a bike computer. It was a Ridley aloy frame, carbon fork and Campy components.
Deals are out there if you look.
12-07-14, 10:11 PM
#25
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Going fast is 99% the engine, not the bike. But I do agree that the same rider on a road bike will be faster than on a hybrid because road bikes generally have better wheels and more aerodynamic riding position. Bike style is a personal preference, kind of like cars.