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rear wheel replacement 101

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Old 02-05-15, 11:26 PM
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rear wheel replacement 101

Hello,

I am looking for some tips on replacing a rear wheel. I am getting new wheels and will be swapping the rear cassette. I found videos on cassette replacement, but nothing on replacing a rear wheel - which I think is probably the same procedure. Is there anything else I need to do, like grease the free hub before installing the cassette?
I know i need the cassette lock tool and the chain whip.

Thank you in advance,

juan
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Old 02-05-15, 11:44 PM
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I recently did this. I have a chain whip and cassette wrench. My cassettr was on so tight i couldn't get it off. I took it to my LBS and they changed it for $3.50. I didn't do anything else except change the tube and tire.
Somebody with more experience will be by shortly.
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Old 02-06-15, 03:26 AM
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Are you doing nothing more than removing your current rear wheel and installing a different wheel on your bike?

If that is what you are doing, all you need to do is put your cassette onto the new wheel. Apply a light coat of grease to the freehub body of the new wheel before you install the cassette.

When you install a cassette onto a wheel, you do not need the chain whip. Just tighten the cassette lock ring with a wrench.
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Old 02-06-15, 07:03 AM
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why are you getting new wheels, and are you keeping your old set for back up or bad weather?
Why not just get another cassette and put it on the new wheel and have a spare set of wheels?
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Old 02-06-15, 07:28 AM
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I've never greased a freehub. A thread-on freewheel in the old days, sure, but never a freehub and cassette. Never even thought about it until just now.
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Old 02-06-15, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I've never greased a freehub. A thread-on freewheel in the old days, sure, but never a freehub and cassette. Never even thought about it until just now.
If I don't, my cassette (SRAM Open Glide 1090 Red) will get chatty on me.
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Old 02-06-15, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I've never greased a freehub. A thread-on freewheel in the old days, sure, but never a freehub and cassette. Never even thought about it until just now.
Not sure if he asking about greasing the free hub body where the cassette slides over, or the theads in the freehub where the lockring goes.

It's definitely a good idea to grease the lockring threads. The torque spec is 40nm. You want to make sure the lockring is tight, and you really can't overtighten it. (Tighten it to the point it stutters and you're done.) but with no grease on the lockring it can be a PITA to take off.

It couldn't hurt to put a little grease on the freehub body to slide the cassette on, but I typically don't bother.
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Old 02-06-15, 08:01 AM
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Yeah, sure I grease the lock-ring threads.
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Old 02-06-15, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by HOWSER
If I don't, my cassette (SRAM Open Glide 1090 Red) will get chatty on me.
Interesting, I've never even thought about it either. No problems with chatty 1090 cassettes. I don't understand what about greasing the freehub would silence anything on a 1090 cassette either - it's a single piece of metal.
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Old 02-06-15, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by obed7
why are you getting new wheels, and are you keeping your old set for back up or bad weather?
Why not just get another cassette and put it on the new wheel and have a spare set of wheels?
That is not a bad idea! I have Ultegra 6800 11-28 and was thinking on getting the 11-32 for climbing, but not sure if the dérailleur needs changing too...may go that route! Can't think I would get much for my aksiums anyway...might as well keep them!
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Old 02-06-15, 05:03 PM
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The 32t requires a longer verson of the rear derailleur. The standard version (likely what you have) is rated to 28t.
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Old 02-06-15, 09:16 PM
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What kind of grease? any favorite brands/type?

Thank you!
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Old 02-06-15, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dtrain
The 32t requires a longer verson of the rear derailleur. The standard version (likely what you have) is rated to 28t.
I wonder how i can tell if I have the shorter version. From looking at pictures of the medium (which can work with the 32), it looks like I may have the medium...
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Old 02-06-15, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by juanebici
I wonder how i can tell if I have the shorter version. From looking at pictures of the medium (which can work with the 32), it looks like I may have the medium...
Measure the distance between the pulleys and then go check on line for the spec. Normal RDs have the pulleys pretty close together. Medium cage RDs... well, they look awkwardly far apart.
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Old 02-06-15, 10:20 PM
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32 = GS
28 = SS
might be in the spec's and/or stamped on the back of the RD.
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Old 02-06-15, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by juanebici
What kind of grease? any favorite brands/type?

Thank you!
Phil Wood waterproof grease in the green tube has been my go-to for over 30 years.

Park Tools makes a similar green grease that's likely just as good.
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Old 02-06-15, 10:30 PM
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I use Marine grease, It repels water/salt and humidity. For $3.00 a tube at Napa, nothing better. Penzoil and QUIK Silver make it, sold at Walmart. $4. used on Boston Whaler with 4 new engines from honda marine BF 250 at $40,000 an engine, on a quad boat. I doubt there cold be anything better.
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Old 02-06-15, 10:34 PM
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Awesome dtrain I will check it out!
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Old 02-06-15, 10:36 PM
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Thank you for the grease info!
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Old 02-06-15, 11:01 PM
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Interesting. I also grease the freehub body where the cassette contacts or I tend to get noise. But I also blue loctite the cassette lock ring. Takes a little time to scrape out the old loctite from the threads when I service, but I've had a couple come loose over time and loctite has been 100% for me.
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Old 02-06-15, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dtrain
32 = GS
28 = SS
might be in the spec's and/or stamped on the back of the RD.
I have the SS, so the 11-32 will have to wait for the next purchase...thank you for the help!
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