nemeseri

I'm thinking about buying an AER/Forty series cane creek top headset for my new emonda. Trek states that the top headset is 1-1/8". Well if I get my calculation correct, that means 28.575mm. Cane creek has usually 3 sizes for integrated headsets: 38.1mm, 41.1mm, 42mm.

Am I missing something?

bbattle

This one: Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek AER Headset

rpenmanparker 

That's not right as near as I can tell. You have referenced a standard, non-integrated headset with same diameter top and bottom. OP just wants the top assembly for an integrated headset as the AER II series of headsets employ 110 type bottom assemblies. Only the top assembly is unique and is paired with a top-of-the-line bottom assembly from the 110 series when the headset is integrated.

rpenmanparker 

OP, you are confusing the steerer tube diameter (1 1/8 inch) with the inner diameter of the integrated bearing seat in the head tube. You most likely need the IS41 size-type.

bbattle

Like this one: Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek AER-Series IS42 Upper Cup

rpenmanparker 

Yeah, that's the idea. I just have no clue which specific diameter is required, 41, 42, 44. And is it IS or Z type. Perhaps the old headset has markings that will clear all this up.

Alias530

As an Emonda SL owner I have to ask, what is wrong with the stock one? Seems like a silly place to "upgrade".

rpenmanparker 

Grams, baby, grams!

Alias530

What trim level did you get? I got the SL8 and the only place I found to lose any real weight is the wheels, which aren't even heavy to begin with (~1,700g).

GlennR

If he wanted a lighter bike he should of upgraded the frame to the SLR.

I went with the Cane Creek IS8 over the AER Superlight at the recommendation of the head mechanic at the LBS. He explained that the AER was finicky and difficult to dial in correctly. it was either a bit too loose or it would bind.

rpenmanparker 

I agree with you. I'm just opining about his reason, that's all. Doesn't have to make sense to you and me.

Alias530

The SLR is like 3/4lb lighter for $3,000 extra... quite the price for that much weight.


edit: they just cranked up the cost of the SL frame so it's only a $2k gap but still

GlennR

My SLR is a good 3 lbs lighter than a SL and that's with pedals, bottle cages, Zipp 303s, DTS sensor and Garmin mount.

I guess if I got the AER it would of been under 14lbs.

Alias530

Yet the frame weight still accounts for only 3/4lb of that gap

the whole frame doesn't even weigh 3lbs

And an sl8 is 15.01lbs with red and 15.5 with DA so I'm not sure how you come up with 3lbs. Even if it is, it's not the frame that's doing it.

RNAV

I spent $30 on some used KCNC titanium skewers and saved 100 grams over the stock skewers. Pretty cheap, and definitely easier to replace than a headset. Just sayin.

rpenmanparker 

I consider the tipping point $1/gram. Stupid but a nice round number. By that reckoning your skewers were a great deal.

GlennR

I weighed a SL6 (Ultegra) with test ride pedals and it was over 17lbs.

If I put Bontrager RXL wheels on, my SLR would be under 13lbs.

I just don't see the point of strying to save 40 grams at the headset.

Alias530

Well you can't really compare a $3k bike to a bike I can imagine is more than double that and say it's the frame. My point was that the FRAME weight difference between SL and SLR is less than a pound and over $2k so that's not the best way to shave weight, but then again neither is the headset. I may have misinterpreted you but I thought you were trying to say your frame accounted for the 3lb difference. At least 1lb of the gap is Ultegra vs Red.

GlennR

It all adds up, but shaving just 40 grams is not going to make a difference. You'll save more by only taking one water bottle and stopping every hour to refill.

nemeseri

Thank you guys for the answers. Although I didn't get the answer I wanted on the first place.

A little bit of context: I have to replace the conical spacer (bearing dust cap or whatever they call that part) on top of my headtube to go lower (yes, I got a professional fit and that's where we ended up). To achieve this, Trek recommended to order a cane creek conical spacer that costs $50 MSRP. Yes, that's just a spacer. For this amount of money I can almost get a full top assembly online what's lighter than the original one.

Bonus: they said that there is a chance that it wouldn't fit and I might have to order a top bearing too. So I thought it's ok to order a full top assembly.


I know it's weird, but Trek put this line in the headset section on their website: "Integrated, cartridge bearings, sealed, 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom". I have no idea what they meant on the "1-1/8" top" part. I'm just confused.


Man, I will never ever spend $4200 on a frameset. Crashes happen all the time. 3 month ago I got hit by a car and that crash completely destroyed my frame. So I sweared that I will never buy a frame for more than $2000. Groupsets can be reused after a crash. Wheels can be repaired or replaced. But you will often end up with a really expensive pile of carbon after a serious crash.
With the Emonda SL I have the opportunity to go below 15 lbs, so why would I spend $2000 extra on a 340 gram lighter frame? Seriously.

I'm happy for you that you have the money to have the SLR, but judging someone for a $20-40 upgrade with an SLR in the garage just feels...meh...

Yeah stopping every hour won't slow you down either. o.O

See my answer above.

Alias530

Really? My stock skewers are 64g and 60g on a pretty entry level cross bike. I'm too lazy to weigh the ones on my nice road bike but I have to believe they're lighter being on a nicer bike... can't imagine there's 100g to be lost in either case. Even my pig heavy trainer skewer is 90g... 90g + 60g is 150g.

rpenmanparker 

No, that isn't weird. It is a 1 1/8 headset (on top) because the steerer tube has an OD of 1 1/8 inch on top. But there are different diameter head tube standards all for the same nominal steerer tube and nominal headset. That is why you need to know if it is 41, 42, or 44 mm. The 1 1/8 and 41 mm for example don't refer to the same measurement, that is why they are not contradictory. You most likely need a 41 or 42 mm type. Just check which and buy it.

dvdslw

I found this in a product description for the Emonda when looking around at frames; "A more powerful and confident ride has been created by using the E2 head tube system which tapers from a 1.5" lower bearing to a 1-1/8" upper bearing and is wider from side to side than it is from front to back. Being "asymmetric" it minimises weight and maximises power transfer keeping the fork stiffer under cornering loads." Reading this makes me think they've used some proprietary parts in the headset? I know you can find headsets that are offset to change the angle of the fork but this makes it sound as though the head tube itself is asymmetric because the bearing must be round where it makes contact with the steer tube in order to turn.

RNAV

Well, I must apologize . . . I mis-remembered the numbers and was in error by 6.5 grams.

Original Trek/Bontrager Race Lite skewers:


Used KCNC Titanium MTB skewers (rear skewer is 135mm vs. the road's 130mm, so I suppose I could grind 5mm off and save more weight):


Total weight savings = 93.5 grams.

Alias530

Wow. Had no idea so much weight could be lost there and so cheaply