flatlander_48

I chose the middle ground as I wanted a different configuration from how Ritchey BreakAways were sold as a complete bike in 2005. The complete ones were built up with 9-sp Shimano Ultegra. At the time, they did sell some as a Frame and Fork. I found a shop that had bought Frames and Forks and had them build one up with a full 10-sp Campagnolo Centaur drivetrain.

Building up one myself was not an option as I didn't have the appropriate tools and my time was short. I was back in the US for a couple of weeks between Taiwan works assignments and wanted at least a week to ride and get used to the bike before I took it back with me.

CliffordK

I think a lot depends on the bike and market you're looking at.

I just finished my Velo Cheapo project.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...stick-pig.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-favorite.html

I tried to skimp and scrape.
I thought everything purchased was well below NEW market value.
It still ended up being the most expensive of the "cheapo" bikes... just shy of $400. I attributed a purchase price to just about every part on the bike though.

I know the end result isn't a thousand dollar bike. But at the same time, it out classes all of the Bikes Direct $400 bikes.

Anyway, it was a very interesting project. Still a bit of "tuning" to do.

What have I discovered?

In say the low end market (Under $1000), the manufacturers cut a lot of corners.

Straight gauge spokes are cheaper than double butted spokes.
Generic spokes are cheaper than name brand spokes.

So, buying a pre-built low-end bike will have all the cheapest components.
Building the bike yourself, there are some things you'll choose as "upgrades". This will mean your end product will be more expensive, but in the end, you may well have a better and more durable product.

For me, I'm not competing in circles where I need a 16 spoke wheel. I don't know if they're as durable as the 32/36 spoke wheels, but it is nice to have generic parts.

And, if done right, one might have some left-over spokes after building one's wheels which can save a future emergency trip to the shop to replace a broken spoke.

I suppose the downside with used as-found parts is that it is easy to end up with a horrible mismatched "Frankenbike".

As others have mentioned, some of the best deals may be found on cheap deals on used "donor bikes". Perhaps having lots of good components, but just not quite the right frame for you.

rpenmanparker 

Not a fan I take it of the broadly accepted Loc-Tite method of installing press fit bottom brackets. Have you a specific reason to be dissatisfied with it?

Edonis13

I did not know that they went that in depth when you order through a dealer. Good to know.

CliffordK

I think some dealers have always allowed frame-up builds. However, I think that is the point of the Trek Project One, and perhaps other semi-custom builds. Get it like you want it.

Small manufactures such as Bike Friday will also build a bike to your specs, and I think most if not all of their sales are pre-orders.

colnago62

This was my experience as well. I got the cheapest wheelset and replaced the saddle. Everything else was fine. I am not that particular about stems and the the bar shape was fine for me.

Stucky

Well, ya see, based on years of experience reading internet bike forums.....

Nah, this being my first BB30, I'm rather clueless. I had heard about the Loc-tite method- (Big fan of Loc-Tite, I am...especially as a former Chinese ATV and scooter owner ), but in asking about the BB before buying the bike, the seller/mechanic mentioned that Specialized makes/specs a special adhesive for it, which he uses, which makes future removals easier/less messy. (One would think Blue Loc-Tite would do the trick...and it well might; but I'll give the guy points for using what Spec. recommends.)

Darn it! Now you've got me curious! I'm going to have to research this, just for the heck of it!

Stucky

HAhaha! I like that! It's me!

Jiggle

I always build my own because I want to ride what I want to ride not what some bean counter spec'd because his boss told him to increase profitability by 0.5%.

rpenmanparker 

The recommended Loc-Tite is not the normal blue variety. It is the green, "retaining compound". Specialized's stuff may be different or not, but I'm sure the functionality is similar.

svtmike

It's green Loctite 640.

dr_lha

I used Loctite 609 on mine, which was recommended.

svtmike

There might be various recommended loctites on different years' guides for the cranksets. The one I found that recommended loctite at all showed 640. Not sure if 609 or 640 is what I used last time I did it, but I do know it was green.

Stucky

I'm seeing Green Loc-tite; Loc-tite 609; and 3M Scotch Weld as all seemingly appropriate. It seems that Spesh. recommends Scotch-weld, but the other's seem to work well too.

Loc-tite 640 requires heat for disassembly....probably not a good idea for CF bikes......

svtmike

I don't know what to tell you....

https://service.specialized.com/colla...tion-Guide.pdf

qclabrat

If I'm spending the coins for a custom built frame, I'd definitely use a new groupset and wheels. All that invested I'd prefer a pro to put together my bike, even though I've built up over 100 bikes on my own.

Piece by piece is fun, but be prepared to make mistakes and end up with less than optimal parts working together or spares which you didn't anticipate. In the end it may be awash in cost even if you save on labor and killer deals.

My suggestion if the bike is your primary ride, buy it complete.

dr_lha

I would guess that theres not one right answer to this. For the record Park Tools guide says:

Quote:

There can be two press fit complications with the BB30. If the press fit into the frame is too loose, the bearings may move in the shell when stressed by pedaling. This results in a creaking sound. To resolve this, first check the torque on crank bolts to determine if the crank-to-spindle interface is the source of the noise. If this fails and there is still creaking, it may be the cartridge bearing moving in the shell. The bearings should be removed and new ones installed. Press the new bearings into the frame using a retaining compound such as Loctite® RC™ 609. Even using a threadlocker such Loctite® 242 at would be better than pressing the bearings into the shell dry.

The real answer probably is that both will work OK.

ussprinceton

be a weight weenie and build your dream bike