rpenmanparker 

Either that or a break somewhere in the steerer tube-fork crown area. And the latter is very unlikely. Try out whatother folks have said about enough space below the top cap to allow the bolt to draw up the compression plug-star nut. If you are still stumped I would just go new.

velociraptor

Integrated headset, yo. Check a couple of posts back.

rousseau

Ah, good to know. I'm treating this with kid gloves, as this is all new to me, so I'm forever worried about mucking something up.

I've put one in so far. I'll see how it rides and decide whether it needs another one or not.

I removed the compression ring before taking this pic, so it does have one.

rpenmanparker 

What does that have to do with anything? If you are going to buy new cartridge bearings, why not just go all new. It's about time to freshen those parts up. A nice new headset will look great on that bike.

velociraptor

Because an integrated headset = the head tube.

Can't replace that.

The only things that can be replaced in an integrated headset are the two bearings (and the compression ring).

I suppose he could find a complete headset to redundantly fit inside his frame, but why? It's already integrated

EDIT:

Image added for clarity:

bt

my thoughts as well

bt

should he also haggle the price with his LBS?

velociraptor

This is one of those problems that would literally take 5 minutes to solve if the bike was right in front of me.

OR... 20 minutes if I had to run to the LBS to get new bearings.

It just doesn't get any easier than an integrated headset.

rpenmanparker 

I know what an integrated headset is. And I know that the head tube is not considered to be part of the headset. It procides seats for the headset bearings, but it is the frame, not the headset. The headset is the bearings, fork crown race, compression ring, top bearing cap and pre-load compression bolt. Why not freshen up the bike with all those parts replaced with new? Nice upgrade for just a few bucks.

velociraptor

The head tube is considered part of an integrated headset because it serves in place of the bearing cups. You see, they're integrated.

Further, I wouldn't consider the top bearing cap/conical spacer and pre-load compression bolt to be high-wear consumables in need of regular replacement.

And really, even the top compression ring and bottom crown race would only need to be replaced in the event of serious trauma.

I mean, if you've got money burning a hole in your wallet, then I guess you can spend it on whatever you like.

But really, not necessary in the slightest. The bearings themselves are the only maintenance item, which is the whole point of an integrated headset.

And those parts you listed certainly wouldn't contribute to any aesthetic improvements that you seemed to imply when you said, "A nice new headset will look great on that bike", back in post 29. What is there to look at?

rpenmanparker 

I do not agree that the head tube is considered to be part of the integrated headset. You could just as well say that that a conventional head tube is part of the headset, because it provides a tube in which to press the bearing races. The head tube is the head tube. The headset is the headset. Period.

When you buy an integrated headset,
1) you get more than the bearings, and
2) you do not get a head tube in the box.

I don't burn money, but I can put all new headset parts on my bike without going broke. Don't have to, you're right. But OP doesn't know what's wrong. What could it hurt?

velociraptor

LOL, you got me there. You certainly don't get a new head tube in the box for an integrated headset.

All parsing of semantics aside, you are correct; replacing ALL of the headset components will not hurt anything.

But I don't think it's necessary.

rpenmanparker 

Once the semantic discussion is put aside, I think we are in complete agreement. I knew that.

velociraptor

rousseau

It's an internal headset requiring cups. Removing them was an ordeal--they were stuck in there really tightly. The bike shop said that was probably the reason for the unwieldy front end. He installed a brand new FSA internal headset, cups and crown race for the fork, and all.

Took it for a ride this evening, and...it feels better, but it's not 100%. I'm starting to wonder if I'm too far forward on the bike. I've got a non-offset seat post and a 110 mm stem on it. I'm thinking of switching to an offset seat post and a shorter stem, to see if that solves the problem.

I mean, the bike is certainly rideable, and there are long stretches where it's not an issue, but there's still a small but noticeable lack of maneuverability at the front end, somewhat akin to trying to open a car door under water. Is it a pea under twenty mattresses? Kinda, but having ridden three other road frames for long stretches of time, I can feel the difference.

Unless...my other road frames were all 1980s steel Bianchis size 57, and this one is a 2004 aluminum Bianchi with a carbon fork size 55. That wouldn't explain it, would it?

hueyhoolihan

this is a longshot, but a bike that has been through a head-on collision will act that way. basically any malformation of the headtube, or steerer tube, or fork tines. it may not be noticeable at first glance. hope not.

rpenmanparker 

Glad you got the headset sorted out. Not it is time for the fitting...

Seriously, do not do anything regarding the reach to the bars UNTIL you get your fore-aft seat position dialed in. That is totally independent of everything else. It has to be done first and completely on its own. You can start with KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) or any other formula you want. Then you can fine tune that. But do not screw with reach until you get the saddle position done.

#assumingyouwantedsomemoreadvice

rousseau

Update: holy crap! It wasn't the headset at all (or, at least, hardly at all). It was the bearings on my wheels!

Truth be told, the front end of the bike never really felt right. Since my last post above I'd come to accept the unwieldy handling of this frame, and figured it was just something inscrutable that I'd likely never figure out. Maybe...sob...heavier riders just had to be resigned to less nimbleness. Or something. I was trying not to think about it, and just get on with riding.

Then yesterday I bought a pair of new (to me) wheels, and now all of a sudden the bike feels fantastic. The front end is absolutely perfect. It handles like a dream.

But there's more: for the past year or so hills have left me feeling like gravity got heavier, like the bike was weighted down with sandbags. I put it down to being fat and getting old, and figured I'd crossed some kind of Rubicon, never to feel sprightly on the bike again. But today? Holy crap! I was flying up the hills! I was eating them alive!

So the front end problems and the slower pace up the hills had to be due to the bearings on my previous wheelset being worn out. I built that wheelset myself two years ago with Miche Primato Syntesi hubs. Yesterday I discovered some people badmouthing the bearings in those hubs online, so today I went and changed the bearings. It wasn't all that obvious by feel, but the old bearings did indeed seem less than stellar condition-wise.

Now I'm going to have to put the old wheelset back on the bike to further confirm it, but the proof is already in the pudding.

dave1442397

That's great that you got it figured out in the end. I guess the benefit of bad bearings is that you got stronger fighting friction on the hills

rousseau

And it's confirmed--I put the old wheelset with the new bearings on the bike, took it for a short ride, and it handles beautifully. So let this be an addition to the great storehouse of collective knowledge that is bikeforums.net, i.e. a bad bearing not only slows you down, but it's possible that it can affect the handling of the front end of a bike, too.