Stucky

Waste of money- you won't notice a dime's difference.

sam_cyclist

I don't see the logic in OP's desire to upgrade, either.

An FSA crank replaced by 105?

A downgrade from koolstop salmon pads to shimano pads?

I suppose a 10 speed to 11 speed upgrade might be worthwhile: what type of terrain does the rider ride on? Will an extra climbing gear help? Or does OP want a tighter cluster?

If OP wants a different cassette, can't he get one from SRAM with a higher climbing gear? But then will OP need a higher climbing gear with wheels that save a full pound of rotating weight?

BoSoxYacht

you have to be joking.

Parts wear out if you actually use them.

20 years???

catonec 

okay so maybe I exaggerated a little bit with v20 years. I was trying to make a point

rpenmanparker 

Funny thing is this is the same "upgrade" other folks contemplate right on the day they buy the bike. Should I buy the 2014 with 5700 on closeout or the 2015 with 5800 for regular price? Should I get the deal on the 2014 and then do the upgrade myself cheaper than the price difference for the two different year models? And also what is the best upgrade I can make to my bike, wheels? The answers to those questions are seldom as conservative as the answers posted by many of you here. OP can't be more than a few months away from this question except he already owns the bike. He bought his bike on the cusp of the changeover from 10-speed to 11-speed, but landed on the "old" side. Especially since he want the newer, much better wheels and if he plans to keep the bike a long time, but even if not, why not get on the "new" side of that divide for peanuts. 5700 will still work great for a long time, but 5800 will be up-to-date for some time going forward.

About the crank, FSA Gossamer is a popular OEM choice for new bikes, but very few folks think it looks as good or shifts as well as the 105 crank.

Canker

By the time 10 speed stuff becomes hard to find 15 1/5 speed will be out and he can upgrade to that.

rpenmanparker 

So what? What does all this have to do with availability of 10-speed stuff? Why tell someone he shouldn't have what he wants? The fiscal prudery around here is stifling.

It's true that I go out of my way to get the best deal, even to identify products that I think will provide the same performance at a lower cost like shorts and BHS hubs for example. But I never say someone shouldn't avail themselves of the latest and greatest whether they need it or not...at least I don't do that anymore. DSFDF

himespau 

How much more would it be to go to full ultegra? If you do this upgrade, you're going to want to do ultegra a couple years from now when you get another refund. Why not just do the whole nut now?

rpenmanparker 

Full Ultegra is about $300 more.

rms13

On Merlin right now it's $368 for 5800 and $583 for 6800. But it seems like the upgrading from 105 to Ultegra is hard to justify even at that price. Weight difference is about 200 g but looks and functionality is almost identical. 10 speed 105 and Ultegra cranks had noticeable differences in looks but with 11 speed you have to look real hard for the name to know which is which. I wouldn't upgrade from 105 unless I was going to spend up on Dura Ace

rpenmanparker 

Yeah, I saw $614 for the ultegra in a very quick look on Merlin and just rounded up. It isn't necessary, and that's good, you aren't tempted. But if someone told me they wanted to do it, just because the wanted to, well I wouldn't argue about it. We are still talking about peanuts. Larger peanuts, but still peanuts.

06SpiceRed

I would do brakes and the new DA/Ultegra cabling as they are much better. The 6800/9000 cables were a huge missing link the 5700/6700/7900 shifting systems could really benefit from, so buttery smooth. With that said, thats a lot cheaper than going to a full upgrade. I always place upgrades in a category where Id go a step up. 105 is still 105. If you can afford to go higher, id do it otherwise its a waste.

Stucky

Everything new is always "so much better". What were we riding up till now, crap?

rpenmanparker 

Those cables are relatively pricey, about $25.00 for shift cables alone, and they do nothing for crank appearance or lever ergonomics. Actually the 105 upgrade is so cheap that quibbling about how little you can do and still spending sbout a third of the full upgrade cost is silly. Considering the new brakes and improved crank function and appearance over the much-maligned Gossamer, the net price after unloading the old stuff is a bargain. I don't see how to come to any other conclusion but proceed.

rms13

OK, now Merlin has Ultegra for $583.54 with a pair of free GP400s II tires thrown in. Now things are getting interesting!

cale

Interesting because the price is even lower and includes the free tires, which I use, but don't need... But they still want nearly $600 and for something I also don't need but really want... Sound familiar?

rms13

But you will NEED tires haha. Just a matter of when

rpenmanparker 

Now you have a quandary. New 105 or new Ultegra?

cale

I sense a sell off. In and of itself, not a bad thing. But for someone contemplating a very minor upgrade to the latest version of 105, the move to MECHANICAL Ultegra is not exactly a big leap forward in terms of weight savings and is of negligable benefit in terms of performance. If you want Ultegra, buy it but get the Di2 stuff because THAT'S the future of Ultegra. Shimano has already aptly shown that 105 can fill in the gap left by the mechanical Ultegra. Will 105 get Di2? Probably but you can't buy it today.

rpenmanparker 

Uh oh!

sam_cyclist

1. you say you want 5800 because it is a "great deal" even though there is nothing wrong with your current setup and because 5800 is functionally just as good as 6800

2. but now you say you want ultegra 6800 which is $250 more than 5800, even though you said earlier you wanted 5800 because it is the functional equivalent of 6800 at a lower price point

3. you say you want to lose a pound off the wheels for $400, but are willing to be stuck with a 12 - 25 cassette just to save $35 (what is the point of spending an extra $400 on wheels and an extra $400 to $600 on a component group if you want to skimp on $35 extra on a cassette you don't want?)

4. you have no stated budget you wish to adhere to

5. you have no rationale for your purchases: such as lighter wheels for racing

6. you say you want a new crank for "vanity"


It just seems like you have no criteria of a practical or logical nature which dictates much less guides your decision making. Instead you have:

-a desire for a shimano crank for vanity

-a desire for 5800 or 6800 because it's heavily discounted by a UK online seller

rms13

To end the speculation. Orders are in. I went with 5800. $728 for full 5800 (to my exact specs), 1260g clinchers, bar tape and bb30 adapter

So for $1228 all in, I will have like new CAAD10 frame with band new full 5800 and 1260g wheels.

CAAD10 with 5800 from LBS is $1549 plus 9% tax where I live so $1688 out the door for a bike with lesser brakes, cranks and wheels that are 600 grams heavier.

So without selling off any old components, I end up with a like new bike that is better than then the new stock model for $460 less. I'm satisfied with that.

cale

You're kidding right? Cause I'd have included the cost of the bike plus the cost of the new components and wheels to arrive an the current cost of your bike. Not the silly math you use.

dtrain

I don't think there's any 'silly math' there. He's adding up everything you suggest. He only paid $500 for the used CAAD10 (complete), and then ~$365 each for the group and the wheels. That's $1230. If/when he applies the 'silly math' (money back if he sells the stock wheels and 5700 stuff), it'll be considerably less.

I'm actually in the same shoes right now. I paid roughly the same for a used CAAD10 and I'm tempted by a 5800 upgrade. But I'm holding off (other than the brake calipers) for a few reasons. 1) I'd have shop fees on the 5800 install - limited wrenching skills. 2) I have some HED Belgium rims with 10-speed only hubs that I'm happy to run awhile longer. 3) I'd wager that mine is in a little rougher shape (more obviously used). 4) This is a commuter/rain bike for me...I did upgrade my carbon Synapse to 5800.

bonz50

I don't think I'd do a lateral move like that. If I'm replacing a group I'd upgrade, go to 6800. but that's just me.