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    Your braking performance may not be 100% optimal...

    Your braking performance may not be 100% optimal at first (and likely loud), but it will work as long as your brake pads are in decent shape (as with any setup), and it should improve as you ride...
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    Woah, woah. Lots of misinformation here... ...

    Woah, woah. Lots of misinformation here...

    Silver rims ARE (clear) anodized. We offer "mill" finish rims as well, which are completely raw, but quite different than the industry standard "silver"....
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    Totally my mistake -- I was thinking Atlas vs....

    Totally my mistake -- I was thinking Atlas vs. Aeroheat. The website (as usual) is correct. I'm much more prone to errors. :P
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    Haha... I totally understand. The Cliff should...

    Haha... I totally understand. The Cliff should serve you quite well. I will caution that with Aeroheats, running wide tires at higher pressure (60+) can be an issue. The rim is fairly narrow and...
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    If you REALLY want to go strong, I'd actually...

    If you REALLY want to go strong, I'd actually recommend checking out our Atlas (eyelets)/NoBS (no eyelets) rim. It's actually slightly wider and stronger radially than the Cliffhanger, and will be...
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    Honestly, anything a few "c's" above the internal...

    Honestly, anything a few "c's" above the internal width of the rim is a pretty safe bet. 28c and up will work just fine.
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    Sometimes dreams do come true: we do have a...

    Sometimes dreams do come true: we do have a limited run of 584 Aeroheats which are now in the hands of Rich Lesnik at Hands On Wheels. I'm told he's happy to sell them as rims, wheelsets, whatever,...
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    For strength, our best bet is going to be the...

    For strength, our best bet is going to be the Atlas/NoBS (eyeletted/un-eyeletted). The Dyad or Synergy are both strong rim, but more of a lighter-weight touring option vs. an all out heavy duty...
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    Sticky: WTT: classic saddles with junk covers. I've...

    WTT: classic saddles with junk covers. I've recovered a few saddles and want to get better at it, and perhaps update the saddles on a couple of my bikes while I'm at it. I've got stuff to trade...
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    Thanks! In the near future for this will be a...

    Thanks! In the near future for this will be a Shimano 600 Arabesque or Suntour Cyclone II partial group with a nice Sugino crank, and of course a new set of Velocity wheels, probably our Polished...
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    Another Miyata/C&V convert in the family...

    I've been looking for a nice Japanese mixte for my better half for over 2 years now. I all but stopped checking Craigslist when along comes this beauty (talking about the bike ;). A 1983 Miyata 90,...
  12. Handspun is actually quite careful about even...

    Handspun is actually quite careful about even tensioning and setting the J-bends, etc. As a wheel builder, I could probably dial the tension in a little bit better, but as a consumer I wouldn't mess...
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    Start at the valve hole when mounting a tire, and...

    Start at the valve hole when mounting a tire, and work outward, down toward the opposite end. The A23 is a tubeless ready design, so make sure the bead is down in that center channel as much as...
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    Out of curiosity, what rim tape are you using?...

    Out of curiosity, what rim tape are you using? That can come into play.
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    Pretty much what I've found, too. I've got two...

    Pretty much what I've found, too. I've got two sets of A23's and a variety of Pasela wire and folding bead tires (I'm kind of obsessed with the Pasela PT/TG) in various widths that have all fit very,...
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    The blems are usually cosmetic scuffing or in the...

    The blems are usually cosmetic scuffing or in the anodization. In most cases, its hardly noticeable and nothing you wouldn't expect to see on a wheel after a season of riding. Road calipers should...
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    Hi from Velocity HQ. For what its worth, right...

    Hi from Velocity HQ.

    For what its worth, right now we've got a few sets of our hand built 36h Dyad "blem" sets left at $199.99. The Dyad has been a favorite among Clydes for road use. It's 24mm...
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    Generally, we try to get spoke length within a...

    Generally, we try to get spoke length within a 0.5mm. That's not a realistic goal for your home wheel builder, but a 2mm is a mile in wheel building.
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    With disc brakes, spoke length becomes especially...

    With disc brakes, spoke length becomes especially critical, and doubly so with alloy nipples. If the nipple and spoke aren't fully engaged (re: spoke to the bottom of the nipple or thereabouts), you...
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    The grain looks very vinyl-y to me. If you want...

    The grain looks very vinyl-y to me. If you want to somewhat maintain the original look, I would recommend trying a newer faux leather wrap -- the vinyl used now is far softer and grippier than the...
  21. There is no discernible ride difference. Before...

    There is no discernible ride difference. Before "the road" reaches your butt, it has to go through your tires, wheels, frame and seatpost. That's a lot of rubber and metal. Unless you're running 23c...
  22. Great choice, Continental makes top notch tires,...

    Great choice, Continental makes top notch tires, Gatorskins have a great reputation for durability without a harsh ride.
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    I don't think you can ever go wrong with a Tange...

    I don't think you can ever go wrong with a Tange Levin CDS or a Falcon. They aren't as expensive as a period-correct Shimano, but they are very high quality and were found on a lot of nice bikes of...
  24. If you start breaking spokes, then you'll know...

    If you start breaking spokes, then you'll know its time to replace the wheels. My rule of thumb was always 3 broken spokes, replace the wheel. That usually indicates a warped rim and you'll likely...
  25. Ride it till stuff breaks. Shimano 600 is top end...

    Ride it till stuff breaks. Shimano 600 is top end stuff, so it was probably a pretty top end bike. Fit the largest flat resistant tire you can on there, perhaps something like a 700x32 or even 700x35...
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