I agree that the fork crown (flat top without the typical Reynolds fillet bar) is not consistent with a PX10. You might also check the fork blades for seams. PX10's had full R531 frames (including...
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I agree that the fork crown (flat top without the typical Reynolds fillet bar) is not consistent with a PX10. You might also check the fork blades for seams. PX10's had full R531 frames (including...
Agree with your two points, with these clarifications:
1) "If you want a trouble free wheel you will need to have correct and even tension."
2) "If you have some sort of magic touch and ears,...
Right. The apparent sloppy fit is due to the wide range of those "one size fits all" tubes. I've used them and they will work, but you've got to install them with care to avoid pinching. It's...
I believe that the Ridgid tube expander will only work if the ding is within an inch or so of the ST opening. The Stein or similar tapered drift will expand deeper dings. If you have a lathe you...
The old school way to fix ruined BB threads is to rethread them with a BB thread tap. They are available in various sizes and are not cheap.
Never saw a gimmick like that, but it seems to be a brilliant idea! SB was a genius. You could use a right hand threaded bolt/nut to remove left hand threaded BB races, and left hand threaded...
I've got 5 steel road bikes in my stable right now: '72 PX10, '77 PX10LE, A-D Vent Noir, Schwinn Tempo, and 2001 Lemond Zurich (the red & black one with a carbon fork and triple ring crank). For...
That's what I was thinking! The OP said that his hub races were ok. Usually it's pitted hub races that are the problem,
and a rather difficult one to fix. Bad cones are much easier to find and...
OK, I read the answers so far and it seems your chain is not skipping, but what you feel is a lot of resistance when you "pedal hard." Looking at your bike (which has a basic Huffy-style steel (not...
+1. If you can't find BSF, any other oil or fat from other cute, lovable, or protected mammals(e.g. dolphins, whales, polar bears, bunny rabbits, or puppies (except bitbulls) would make an acceptable...
[QUOTE=ThermionicScott;15213409]An old Exage MTB derailleur might be a good match, and cheaper.[/QUOTE
That Exage won't work on the OP's bike, which doesn't need the RD "claw" of the Exage. His...
And probably easier to begin with front wheels, so as to avoid having to deal with asymmetric dish. My first build was a 5-speed high-flange 36x3 rear wheel. It took a couple of days to get it...
Very nice bike! You are right about the fenders.
I just re-examined the detailed photos and now see that the fork crown has the typical reynolds raised fillet bar found in the PX-10 series from the 60's/70's. As to the BB SN, Peugeot PX-10 SN's...
Several possible reasons: 1) high shipping cost; 2) not a very well-known maker; 3) large size frame ("if the frame don't fit..."); 4) bike not in the USA (deterent for USA buyers).
I understand that you tried a different wheel and had a similar allignment problem, but I'm not sure the rear stays are "bent." Looking at your picture it seems that the wheel needs to be offset a...
Exactly. They've been around from the 50's (and maybe earlier). Better than no security at all, but all a thief needs to do is carry the bike off.
You can get the same thing with a long shackle...
IMHO the Campy NR's (1970's iterations) are reliable (foolproof) with 5-6 spead rear cogs. Lightweight, solid, all metal construction, easy to adjust and looks just great. If you want to use it on...
I would never pay $14K for that bike...the frame's too big for me.
This is off topic, but a similar problem can occur with old-style non-sealed BB's. The solution with these is to get a longer spindle so the inner crank wheel clears the frame. On newer sealed BB's...
Great suggestions re causes and fixes for "chain slip." So far the suggestions are: slipping gearhub pawls; worn chain; worn gear sprockets; and derailleur cable tension (and just as important,...
I guess you could clean it up with a small Moto-tool grinder wheel and wheel brush and silver braze it. The DO is forged and ground, and the DO is brazed into the stay tubes when the frame was buit....
Those slimline SO wrenches are superb, as their stuff always is, but cost a boatload of cash. Check out the new Craftsman slimlines: I got both the metric and English sets for about $70 (total) at...
I've got a question about the fork (specifically the fork crown) in the photos of this bike. I can't be sure (due to the size and resolution of the photos), but the crown doesn't seem to have the...
I don't think that the extra holes will seriously compromize the flange strength (but I don't know for sure). What I do worry about is that the wheelbuilder will have to be careful to properly set...